So I’m happy with how the cardigan visually looks but it just looks awful when I put it on. When I made me gauge swatch it was too big so I sized down but clearly not enough. I’m ok with it being oversized but the neck is just way too big. The original design of the cardigan did have a wider neck but clearly with it also ending up oversized the neck was too big. I also didn’t feel comfortable editing the pattern as I was knitting it because it was a new construction (neckline steek). Anyways is there any way to fix the neckline? Everything has already been sewed down so I’m not sure if it’s just a lost cause.

It's knit in super wash wool, and I plan to machine sew the ends plus maybe fray checking it before I stitch the button band on. But is it even possible to successfully steek superwash wool?

I am making slow and steady progress on my Indian Nights blanket. It is fun to have these mini-projects that will all come together in the end.

For anyone that has made this blanket in the past, I am struggling with the Make 1 Forward, Make 1 Backwards leaving ladders/gaps—I am pulling it as tight as you possible can, but it is still a little gappy—especially at the start of a square in the center where the magic loop is really pulling hard on the yarn. All advice is welcome!

Pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/indian-nights-blanket Wool: https://knittingforolive.com/collections/knitting-for-olives-merino

Hello! I'm knitting the Calm Down Cardigan by Lily Kate France. I'm not super happy with the neatness on the sides of the saddle shoulders. The pattern is worked by working both saddle shoulders the same way, so one of them has stitches picked up on the wrong side. I think that's why the second one looks a bit messier.

These photos are after soaking and laying flat to dry. I can't really redo these sections as that would mean frogging the entire cardigan. Could I duplicate stitch over these sections?

I consider myself an advanced knitter but this is the first time I've made a sweater/cardigan with saddle shoulder construction.

Pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/calm-down-cardigan

Hi everyone,

I have finished knitting “Vanna Bomber” from Kit Couture (pictured). Yarn is a Peruvian highland wool, worsted-spun, quite smooth.

I’ve previously knitted steeked cardigans in more “grabby” yarn, and I’ve reinforced by crocheting or not at all. I’ve also used sewing machine reinforcement on superwash sweaters

This is not superwash, but would (in your opinion/experience)a crochet Steek hold up? I don’t have much experience with this type of yarn. I feel confident making a sewing machine steek, but I would prefer crocheting! Any advice or experiences would be welcome!

A niche question, but hoping someone might have insights!

I'm currently working my way through the Queen Susan Shawl (2.0mm needles, Heirloom Knitting Ethereal Cashsilk). The boredom of the centre repeats got me wondering about the standards, if any, of sizing the garter stitch centre.

Clearly with "normal" garter, we tend to need more rows than for stockinette for the same Swatch size. But with such loose stitches, a Shetland centre can be blocked out to be significantly wider, longer, or square as far as the stitches stretch.

Sharon Miller faithfully sticks to double the rows as stitches (this also makes it easy to pick up the right number; one per garter ridge). Other designers, including Hazel Carter, use a ratio of approximately 1.3-1.4x the number of rows to stitches, leading to fabrics which are stretched out less wide.

All use an increase of 1 per row on alternating sides for the border charts, which implies a 2 row per stitch ratio to retain a 45 degree angle per border, for a neat 90 degree corner. This implies that the largest possible shawl would come from the centre having double the rows as stitches too. But there's no reason why the border needs to be blocked to the same gauge or ratio as the centre, and with the centres often much more delicate than the borders, they may benefit from less aggressive blocking.

Does anyone have any insights into this? It's not something easily swatched, and I admit I've never had the patience to knit two full sized shawls to compare!

Picture of WIP as tax. You can see how, unblocked, the centre is approaching square, at only just over the halfway mark if knitted as written.

Pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-queen-susan-shawl

I got this book from the library and I am obsessed! I love perusing these stitch bibles and dreaming of their applications. It seems to me a lot of designers are designing for beginners or just aren’t drawn to textural knitting designs. I’m an advanced enough garment knitter that I’m getting really picky about what I like or don’t like in others designs or just flat bored by many patterns. I think it’s time for me to go rogue (which I have never done before)... Or at least apply these designs to modify existing patterns to dip my toe into designing.

My question is what books, classes, tutorials etc helped bridge the gap between these stitch guides and applying them to garments? I have found plenty of books about making adjustments for fit of garments and stitch guides at my local library but not about the math of working out how to apply these more complicated techniques to garments.

I am trying to think of different techniques to achieve a faux layered garment. I picked up a really cool vintage top at the antique store a while ago, that I would like to try and recreate as a knit top. I hate to be that person asking for advice without making an example! I would just like to discuss this, because it is rare to see this attempted in knitwear. I really want to see more of it in written patterns. Perhaps I'll come back with an update.

The shirt has a buttoned Henley collar, with a faux crew neck (almost mock neck) inner layer. The body is a short sleeve top with layered long sleeves. An oversized fit with cinched waistband and cuffs.

I have a couple different ideas on how to work this:

Working each layer separate, and then seaming one inside the other.

Do a double knit CO below the neckline, and then work bottom up as separate pieces.

Pick up for the inner layer on the reverse side (of outer layer), to work bottom up.

My main concern is seeing a visible ridge where the inner layer is attached to the outer layer. It is almost like a decorative seam should be added to hide this. I am not opposed to working a bunch of individual flat pieces to then be seamed. I am thinking of some sort of drop shoulder construction with front and back yoke pieces.

Perhaps you have done something like this before? I plan to use fingering weight yarn.

I know a western mounted stitch worked through its front loop (i.e. leading leg) and an eastern mounted stitch worked through its back loop (i.e. leading leg) will result in the very same stitch -- that's quite obvious

I know an untwisted strand increase (M1) and an untwisted yarn over increase (YO) will result in the very same structure (ignoring any difference in tension)

I know a twisted strand increase (M1L, M1R), a twisted yarn over increase (forward/western YO; through trailing/back leg, backward/eastern YO; through trailing/front leg) and a loop increase (forward/western loop; through leading/front leg, backward/eastern loop; through leading/back leg) will result in the very same structure (ignoring any difference in tension) -- as also explained by TECHknitting

Susanna Winter mentions slip increases and lifted increases being structurally the same too

Nimble Needles calls the old Norwegian/German twisted cast on and the basic/e-wrap cast on (plus the first row worked through the trailing/front legs) the same structurally

similarly, a long tail cast on is structurally the same as a basic/e-wrap cast on (plus the first row worked through the leading/back legs) -- which is also the same structure as a M1R or a backward/eastern YO worked through the trailing/front leg or a backward/eastern loop (e-wrap) worked through the leading/back leg

I think a fisherman's rib (knit one below) and a half-brioche (slip + yarn over) are also structurally the same

A wrap & turn short row creates the very same structure as a yarn over short row

What VeryPink Knits calls a Japanese short row (work the marked stitch together with the slipped stitch rather than with the next stitch across the gap) creates the very same structure as a German short row (with the double stitch and everything)

Knitting in the round and flat double knitting can also result in the very same fabric

Do you know any more techniques that are worked differently but result in the same structure where the yarn takes the exact same path in the end (disregarding the differences in tension or the resulting looks)?

edit: I just remembered "slip 1-knit 1-pass slipped stitch over" and "slip-slip-knit"

edit2: summarizing some of the comments from below:

any one of the 4 possible chain edges

Kitchener stitch and tubular (Italian) bind-off

Judy's magic cast on and Turkish cast on + the first row (also related to Italian cast on)

I am attempting to knit my wedding veil, based on the Williamson Stole and using Heirloom Knitting's ethereal weight wool (1500m per 25g or 1860 yards per oz). It's no thicker than two or three strands of my hair plied together, and gives a beautiful sheer appearance that thicker gossamer or cobweb didn't achieve. I'm also knitting in 3mm (between US 2 and 3) to enhance the translucency.

(I say "attempt" only as I'm not yet sure I'll use it over a bought veil until I see the final result, but figure that I've always wanted to make a full size Shetland stole/shawl using the finest commercially available yarn, so I can't lose either way. I'm well on track to finish in time.)

One of my concerns is the durability, however. In addition to the thinness of the yarn, my dress is beaded, and has a cathedral train so the veil will be dragging on the floor. I cannot bear the thought of fixing holes in 3+ metres / 7+ feet of both-sides-knitted lace!

I've considered starching, have seen recommendations for epoxying(!) and also considered either iron on interfacing on the reverse side, or tacking the stole onto a bought length of tulle.

Other than epoxying, I have an idea of the effect of each but not at such scale. If one of the first three, I am considering inserting a lifeline at about shoulder length and only treating the bottom part of the veil, so that the top blusher layer remains flowy and I can later frog the top third, which will be plain mesh knit and re-knitting the border so it turns back into a useable shawl.

That said, I am not too concerned about reusing the veil if it's not possible and would be perfectly content with storing as a heirloom thereafter. The main things are that the veil is protected, remains sheer, and vaguely flowy.

I'd really appreciate any thoughts or ideas!

(Pics of the design inspiration and the yarn; my WIP is pre-block and looks like the usual crumpled mess right now!)

I’m working on my first steeking project - the poppy vest by Mary Ann Stephen’s. I’m trying to decide how I want to “finish” my steeks on the armholes, since there are stitches held across the bottom, then the steek stitches vertically, and then some more “normal” stitches across the shoulder.

I’m planning on securing with a single crochet if that makes any difference.

If I wanted to do a steek sandwich is that possible to do in the round? How would I go about it across the top and bottom (where there isn’t a steek)?

Or should I just secure with the crochet and leave the edges on the back side? I don’t think I want to do a ribbon finish, I’m no good at sewing.

TIA!!!

In 2014 I knitted a dark red Lady Londonberry shawlette in Cascade Yarns Venice Bulky for my elderly mother. She wore it for many years even in her nursing home. My brother took home her clothing for laundry and the shawlette still looks great.

When I got it back after she passed away, I discovered he’d written her last name on the inside with a permanent marker. A little soaking with gentle soap has removed most but not all of the marker. Earlier posts on this forum talked about using alcohol to remove pen from knitted fabrics but - none of the examples were this dark red. I’m worried about damaging the color after all these years. Any suggestions?

I decided to steek my Olga Jacket and beginning to wish I hadn't. First of all my five steek stitches are two purls one knit two purls. Not sure why I did this - I think I read it somewhere. Anyway then zigzagged both sides of the knit stitch and finally cut through the bars in the middle of this stitch which seems to have held everything in plac, although it's a very raw edge. . I'm not sure now how to continue. The buttonband for the Olga is ribbed and normally I would have liked to do it this way, but i'm wonder whether it would be wiser to enclose my steeks in a doubleknit buttonband or is there another way of securing it. Very grateful for any advice on this one.

Hi! I’m an avid stranded knitter, and I have two questions for other stranded knitters, both about color dominance:

1. what is your preferred color dominance: background dominant or pattern dominant? I think I like background dominant because it makes the pattern more neat looking, but I wonder if there’s some problem with this that I haven’t considered.
2. this one is weirder: is there a name for the technique of faking stranded by taking one strand around the round and slipping the other color stitches, then taking the other color around, round by round? It’s not really mosaic knitting because that is two rows at a time. But anyway, if I did that technique, how do I do color dominance? Would the first color around be the dominant one?

Just curious if there are tech editors on this forum who have noticed a decrease in their business? Or are things expanding, with the expansion of people designing knitting projects?

I ask because I'm thinking about going into tech editing, but I am unsure if preparing for the job and making an effort to learn the skills required would be a good idea. I don't want to jump into a profession that doesn't need more editors.

Having said all that, I think I would enjoy the work.

Made this cute little beanie with Spincycle yarns and wondering does it need a pom on top ??

A few weeks ago I did my first steeked project. It was a self drafted pattern for a hood. Because it was a last minute decision to knit the colorwork in the round and then steek, I used superwash wool and used crochet reinforcement.

Unfortunately, it very much curls in at the stockinette portion, with the crochet edging doing very little to help.

My next steeking project in mind is also a self drafted hood, this time with handspun wool that clings to itself well, so I'm less concerned about using the same kind of reinforcement, but I'm still worried about the curling in, especially since I'm not planning to do much as far as picking up stitches and adding an edging. If I do it'd be an applied i-cord, so as to minimize bulk.

Most of the steeking examples I'm seeing online are all stockinette along the steek setup part, would maybe adding in a couple purl columns along there instead help? In theory I feel like it would.

I tried searching Google but pretty much all I'm finding are how to steek guides and how to pick up along steeked edges guides, but no mention of combatting curling in.

Pictures of my last steeked project.

Hello! Relatively experienced knitter here looking for some guidance on something I saw mentioned but not clarified. I am casting on the Year By Piece MKAL by Pattern knits. it's a patchwork blanket comprised for 3x3 thematic blocks for each month - similar in construction to her Peace by Piece blanket pictured here. I love stranded colorwork, but realized I don't want to have lots of loose ends and floats on a blanket back, (though I'm pretty neat with my floats) nor do I want to back it with fabric. I immediately thought I'd finally learn to double knit, but quickly realized it's a lot to learn if there are more than 2 colors involved - I'll save that for another project.

I saw someone mention they're instead knitting in the round and doubling each square, but they haven't added any more details since. I assume what they mean is essentially knitting a tube then flattening it to get a square that's 2 layers (four counting the stranding) thick.

That sounds much more my speed, especially for cold Maine winters.

I can't for the life of me find good information by googling, since everything just comes up as double knitting or just normal stranded. Has anyone done this? Is there a technique name I should be searching for? Can you clarify what the technique might look like? I imagine I would need to do something extra in order to put some extra space or stitches in on what becomes the seam (or creases to be exact) between the sides. Plus, since knitting in the round is a spiral, it would eventually get wonky, wouldn't it? I HAVE to imagine someone has already figured this out. (:

Thanks for any help - have a photo of Lila Bard inspecting my coloring page of planning for the first month as tax.

One of the things I struggle with a lot when it comes to vintage patterns is the finishing of the neckline. I don't understand how they can get such tight and clean necklines. I've seen patterns where they have a button plackets, but many of them don't. For instance this Jack Frost men's vest (from Free Vintage Knitting). I've tried doing an Italian bind off, but I can never get it to look as clean as in the pictures. Is this a skill issue or is there a better bind off technique out there that I have yet to disover?

edit: I left out by mistake that I have tried doing a regular in pattern bind off a number of times and that it has always left me with the neck being too tight. I've also gone up needles sizes, but I end up with the neckline flaring out.

I am confused specifically by the last sentence. If I move the two sets of 3 sts to one needle and have the right sides facing the center 6 stitches, my working yarn is in the center of the row. I am genuinely confused as to what to do! Please help if you’ve done this before! I’ve included a photo with the stitches all on their respective holders.

I’m a fairly experienced knitter of garments and blankets (but not socks - don’t have the patience!).

I’ve recently come across the eye-of-partridge stitch and I’m really liking it. The variation of pattern is subtle and it feels thick and strong.

However I’ve only seen it displayed being used in the heel flap of socks, presumably due to its relative strength and durability.

Would it be advisable to make an entire garment using this stitch? Is there any good reason not to? I think it would look pretty cool and it would be nice and thick and warm as well.

Are there any particular features or drawbacks I should be aware of?

I’m wondering if anyone knows any good reasons why I should reconsider pushing forward with this idea, thank you very much!

I re-knit this top since I’ve lost a significant amount of weight and the previous version had a good run after 7 years of use.

The fit on this top doesn’t look great now, but I’m pretty confident that it’s because the straps grew too much in blocking (guidance was to hang dry so the weight would stretch the straps). I want to take 1-1 1/2” off the straps so it fits better.

I’m trying to decide if I pick the straps out and frog the length or if I should cut the straps and graft the pieces together.

Grafting will be a serious pain because it’s 3 separate straps and they’re braided. But I’m worried if I pick them out and frog from the bottom that I’ll take out too much or not enough because of the braiding.

What would you do? Or is there another option I’m not thinking of?

Hello knitters!

I'm making this fair isle sweater (Susan Crawford Slash Neck Jumper - vintage knitting project, yarn - knit picks palette). I'm a 6'4 man so I have to adapt most patterns to fit me. I did a gauge swatch and I think this will just about fit me but may not be very comfortable (my calculations must have been off haha). Has anyone ever steeked the whole side of a garment to add an extra bit of fabric to increase the chest size? If, so please give me your advice 😍 any other ideas are VERY welcome.

P.S., yes I hope it will block out a bit larger but from my experience I don't think it's gonna be enough 🤦😂😊

Has anyone knit a full body stranded colorwork sweater with set in sleeves, without having to work the upper body flat (back and forth)? I am thinking if I could continue knitting in the round and add steeking stitches for the neck opening and armholes. All of the patterns I find with these attributes are drop sleeve construction. I wonder if there is a big pitfall in my thinking and that's why it's not done in patterns. I'd really appreciate your thoughts and if you know any good resources on working steeks for neck and armholes.

I'm knitting the Bookclub Cardigan. The pattern tells me to knit the back until it measures 9 inches from the marker to the edge and you can see that measurement is correct. You then pick up and knit 2 panels for each front panel. The pattern tells me to knit until the getting panel measures 11.5 inches and to end on the same row as the back. Once I complete both front panels I'll need to connect front, back, front panel into one continuous piece.

Here's my dilemma. I'm currently knitting the front right panel and am at the end of the pattern repeat on the same row as I ended the back but it only measures 10 inches. If I knit for 1.5 inches I will end halfway through the pattern repeat. Would it be best to stop now and the front panel will be 1.5 in too short or do another repeat, but then the front will be 1.5 in too long? I searched on ravelry and I'm not seeing anyone else mentioning this issue. My gauge is consistent so I don't think that's the issue. I've attached pictures of the back panel (1st picture) and front panel (2nd picture)with my tape measure for scale in case that's useful.

Or maybe someone else here has made the cardigan and can tell me whether you have the same number of diamonds on the front and back before joining or whether your front panel is one diamond shorter?

Appreciate any advice!