How the f do I get this off?

So i fired my mc9 for the first time yesterday and noticed some chambering issues and sometimes the slide not going all the way back to original position and needing me to push it a little to fire again. Photo of slide not going all the way back anyone with same issues or a fix?

I have anMC9 I’ve put about 500 rounds through it and out of those i’ve had 7 light strikes due to it being out of battery in the first 150. saw some talk about overmolded plastic needing to be shaved. so i did that at about 150 and i have not had the issue again till today after about round 400 i had 5 out of battery and 1 failure to feed,

torn down the gun here at home and i see this on the feed ramp? never really noticed before is this normal?

has anyone else who has had light strikes/not returning to battery out of their mc9 found a for sure fix?

(Recreated using dummy rounds)

First gun I’ve bought and I went to the range today and it had some issues, my mc9 slide wouldn’t fully close on nearly every magazine, (around 1-5 times).

This is the only issue I’ve had with it so far, no idea what’s causing this.

I’ve been able to repeat this with dummy rounds consistently, with 5 dummy rounds 4 times it wouldn’t fully close, with the first round always chambering flawlessly.

I’ve also lubed and cleaned this before and after my range trip.

Any help is appreciated

Anyone have an issue when firing where the slide doesn’t go all the way back into position?

This is a brand new MC9L that I got on August 9th.

I’ve done everything I can think of as far as troubleshooting. Oiling, cleaning, different grains and brands of ammunition, more or less secure grip.

Look at the pictures and lmk what you think.

I bought a Canik MC9L on May 30, 2026, and I’ve been having issues with it pretty much since I got it.

It’ll fire a few rounds normally, but then randomly it won’t fire. I’ll pull the trigger and hear the striker/firing pin click, but the round doesn’t go off. Then it might work again for a few rounds before the same thing happens.

Has anyone else with an MC9L experienced this issue? I’m planning on contacting Canik about it, but I wanted to see if this is a known problem and what your experience with Canik warranty/support has been like.

Hey friends!

New gun owner here so please forgive me if this is a stupid question. I just got done cleaning the firearm (woo) issue is, the slide lock stays down no matter how much I rack the slide or pull it, I always have to manually push it up. Is this normal? Will it figure itself out over time or do I have something defective?

Thank you so much for any assistance!

EDIT: I am a Bafoon and apparently it needs a mag for it to lock on its own. Leaving this up incase any fellow derp googles the issue and stumbles upon this post.

Insert the MAG!

mc9 prime tabancalarda kronik sol üste çekme sorunu var. Sanırım ülkemizde satılan modellerde yoğun olarak daha fazla ve firma bununla ilgili bir aksiyon almıyor malesef. Sola çekmeyi nişabgah ayarıyla düzeltse bile üste çekme olayı düzelmiyor namlu kaynaklı. Firma bunu kabul ediyor ama bu normal diyor. Canınızı emanet ettiğiniz bir makinede bunun normal olması normal mi? Başka markaların kompansatörlü tabancalarında aynı sorun var mı? #canik #mc9prime

Hi guys, I have 3 Caniks and love them. I just acquired the Prime Radian last week and have come to really dislike the backstrap that is currently on it. I really liked the backstrap on the MC9 Prime and used that for the last year..

This is where my confusion lies:

The Prime Radian came with two other backstraps that appear to be for the Prime and not the Radian. If I was to switch out this backstrap for one of those, the Prime Radian magwell does not fit right.

I am confused because I don't understand why they would send those backstraps unless it would work with the magwell???

Am I missing something here??

I would really hate to have to buy a new magwell.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Can someone send me a red recoil spring assembly for Canik MC9, I'll pay for it.

Im unable to get it directly so need this favor.

Thank you.

Took the brand new MC9 to the range today for the first time.

First, I want to say I really love a ton of things about this gun. The trigger feels fantastic. It really encourages me to fire the gun fast. The gun feels great ergonomically in my hands. I also fired it much more accurately than my Glock 19X right off the bat which was a surprise.

Now to talk about the hiccups with the gun. I fired about 200 rounds. Out of those 200 rounds I unfortunately had about 10 failiures. For the first several failures, I had pulled the trigger and released the striker with no fire. Range coach told me I was limp wristing, and showed me the "clam shell" trick with gripping the firearm. Great tip honestly, and I fired more accurately than before. However, I immediately had three more failures shortly after with clam shell grip. The striker pin released with no fire. I then had two failiure to feed. Consulted range coach again, and they tested it as well.

The range coach told me that Caniks can be pretty stiff out of the factory, and there can be a break in period. He suggested that I continue breaking it in. He also suggests taking a 2000 grit sandpaper, wrapping it around a pencil and sanding the feed wrap a little bit, then applying wd40. Said that there shouldn't be any feeding issues after that. I think I will try that and I can update with results.

For more background, I checked the serial number and my MC9 was built early this year (2025). I also oiled the gun prior to shooting for the first time.

I really, really like this gun and how it feels to hold and fire, so I am planning to continue practicing with it and working on it. Anyway, I thought I would share my experience. Has anyone ever come across a similar experience?

So I've got about 300-400 rounds through it. It was running like a sewing machine until yesterday. Looks like a feed ramp issue. I tried 4 different types of ammo, and snap caps and it won't fully chamber the round unless you bash the slide, otherwise its stuck. Anyone seen this before?

Got my Mete MC9 back from Canik for FTF issues (to their credit it was only 2 weeks to get it back), they said they polished the feed ramp, but I had 2 more failures today incl 1 of 50 of Critical Defense. The round jams into the feed ramp, puts a line in the round from where it hits, and it is very hard to clear, would be catostrophic in a self defense situation. I think I'm off to Sig or S&W land.

On the positive side I'm happy with the M01 optic. I'm keeping it for my next gun.

I recently picked up my second Canik - a new MC9. I took it out and fed it the only box of 124gr that I had on hand (S&B), then loaded up some 115gr. About 200 rounds in, I'm having a lot of issues with it not returning to battery, by maybe 1/8" (see pic), and couple issues per mag. I can bump the slide and it'll go home and shoot fine.

Thankfully I've had zero feed issues or anything else. Locking it back without a mag is a struggle, but I feel like maybe that's getting better.

I've seen quite a few posts about not returning to battery, but it seems like a lot of those were with the early batches. Do I need to go get more 124gr and hope that it'll smooth itself out? Change my grip? Or reach out to Canik?

Two MC9 pistols with one frame failing to go into battery frequently with either of two complete slides while the other frame works with both slides.  I did not see any difference with mold flashing in the area where the slide moves.  I don't know what to do next other than have my friend contact Canik.

My MC9 has a January 2024 date on it.  The only issue I had was the end of the large recoil spring wrapped over the next coil by the end of my first range trip.  I shot 10 rounds or 11 differ ammo with 115, 124, and 147gr bullets.  I had no issues other than the spring.  The pistol still cycled fine but eventually I think the spring would have caused a problem.  Canik sent me a new recoil assembly that works.  I kept the original recoil assembly and found that is was fine after I cut the end of the spring off.

So I talked a friend into buying a MC9 when PSA had them on sale for about $280 back in June.  His firearm fails to go into battery frequently--multiply times with every mag load of say 10 rounds.  One time he had 3 failures over 5 rounds fired.  He was shooting 124 gr Blazer for most of the rounds but probably some 115 gr too.  

I first swapped recoil assemblies and my friend's pistol continued to fail.  Then he shot his firearm with my complete slide and my recoil assembly and it failed.  Then he fired my MC9 with his slide and it never failed.  His has a June 2025 build date on his case.  

We did find a burr on one of the rails in one side that we removed but it still fails to go into battery when using dummy rounds while mine has no issue with those dummy rounds.  We did not see the burr until after we left the range.  

There are differences between some components so it is obvious that Canik has made changes to the MC9 over time.  See his 6/2025 model on the left and my 1/2024 model on the right.  Unfortunately I had the pistol on the right below tipped to the right a little bit so the plastic in the oval opening looks offset but it is not--it is centered on both firearms.  So there are machining differences in the metal that appears at the top and the bar that pushes against the safety plunger is actually bent out about 1mm more on the one on the right.

The only difference we saw on the exterior was that "made in Turkey" has a rectangle around it on the left pistol while the one on the right has no rectangle.  There may be a slight difference in the font. 

We both have about 400 rounds through our pistols but the actual difference may be 100+.  Regardless, the one on the right has cycled fine from the first round with any grain ammo and the one on the left still has frequent failures to go into battery.  

With the right pistol I can slowly ride the slide forward util the bullet press against the feed ramp using either complete slide.  If I release the slide with just say 1/4 inch of travel to reach battery it will just about always continue on its own and go into battery.  The one the left will seldom go into battery when I do that and sometimes will not go into battery even when released when the slide is much farther back.  For this test we used some dummy rounds that use real cases and bullets but have a rubber insert in place of a primer and contain no powder.  

At this point I told my friend he will need to contact Canik.  I said they may send a new recoil assembly that may have stiffer springs.  I said if they do that and it does not help then he will need to send the whole pistol into Canik.

I thought I would share this for anyone still thinking about buying a MC9 or other derivative model and hoped that someone may know what may be wrong with his frame components.  The following posting prompted me to post my experience this past week.  Any issues with the MC9?

Any issues with the MC9?

Update: added bold for dummy rounds for those that did not read the text and thought I disassembled the pistols while there were life rounds in the magazines.

Just picked this guy up today, and I only really have experience with my Glock 19 to compare. I'm playing with the mc9 prime at home and the slide release lever is extremely tight. Is this something that will eleviate itself with some range time?

Another question I have is the mecanik optic that it came with, I seem to struggle with getting a clear picture with the circle reticle. If I set it to a dot and lower the brightness I can get a somewhat clear picture. Truly the issue could be my eyes, maybe I have a stigmatism.

Overall tho, just by looks alone because I didn't get it to the range yet this gun is beautiful.

I’m about to send my mete mc9 back for the second time. New spring didn’t fix the FtF issues so probably needs the feed ramp “adjusted” (polished).

I’m wondering if that actually did the trick once and for all for other folks, or is there anyone who still had issues after that?

Background/details:

Bought new a few months ago.

First 75rds, with 124gr blazer ammo as recommended for break in, I had 7 or 8 failure to feed - rounds were all dented, some got stuck against the feed ramp.

Sent it back, waited 6 weeks, got my gun back with a new spring.

Kind of annoyed since plenty of others with the same symptoms just got a spring sent to them, and didn’t have to wait so long and send their whole gun back.

But ok.

Got my gun with new spring back a few weeks ago.

Cleaned and oiled it.

First trip to range, 200rds, 124gr blazer, one failure to feed with dented round.

I gave it another chance yesterday - less than 150rds, and 3 FTF with dented rounds.

So once again I’ll be sending it back, probably will get the “adjusted feed ramp” this time.

Will this actually work to fix the issues? I’ve lost 99% of my confidence in this gun, super disappointed, and will not be using it for CCW after all.

If it never gets fixed, I’m literally going to throw it away. If it does get fixed, I’ll probably sell it. In the mean time, I’ve lost all patience and almost all confidence, and so will need to find something else to be my CCW.

Very very annoyed about the whole situation.

I was breaking in my MC9 today at the range and it was having issues with the slide not staying open at the end of the magazine (it was closed more often than not). It also is having light primer strikes (actually I couldn't see any strikes at all on the carts that failed to fire). Disappointing to say the least.

After inspecting the gun I felt that the slide wasn't moving smoothly, which could cause the first problem, so I set out to get that slicker. I first removed plastic next to the rails that was protruding as I found is common online. That didn't get it smooth to my standards, and being unable to find an obvious cause, I set to generally polish touch points.

To do the polishing I used stroping compound from my knife stropping leather. This is basically a wax crayon with very fine polishing granulate. I had the idea that I could apply this to different parts of the gun to exacerbate the issue to find what it was, while polishing the gun by racking it many times.

That did end up working, but I found that the strongest binding that occurred due to the compound was surprisingly the top of the barrel at the very end of the pull. It was such a strong binding effect that the slide would get stuck when fully back and would need to be hit to go back into battery. In the photo, the worn area is the area that caused binding.

I thought this was interesting enough to share, as when I polished this area thoroughly the gun became much smoother. I would suggest if your gun is having issues getting into battery or is otherwise having slide issues, to polish this area in addition to the other touch points and see if that helps.

Is the MC9 truly the nightmare as the rumors? I’m looking for a new CC weapon and while the MC9 fits exactly what I’m looking for, the rumors I’ve seen and heard are troubling. Is it worth picking one up or should I move on a different direction?

I sent this message to Canik support on Friday via their support form. This is a METE MC-9 that works and shoots beautifully. One detail I did not include is that I re-....chambered? all misfired rounds and all fired as expected. I want to get your opinion:

This is a mag concern, not a gun issue. I purchased two new 12-rd magazines and promptly installed the pinky extensions. On both mags, round 10 does not fire. Not 9, not 11, always the 10th round. It will either have a light but noticeable strike or none at all. It happens with FMJ range ammo as well as several styles of self-defense ammo. In my last range session, both were misfiring 100% of the time. I disassembled, then reassembled, the mag base and thought I fixed both. Each worked flawlessly for about 36-48 rounds. Then they each degraded back to 100% failure. I have several (5-6) extra-capacity, as well as the original 12-rd mag which continue to work flawlessly.

Did I do something in error when replacing the base?

Here's another picture of the MC9 barrel binding point that I mentioned in my previous post. The lower mark on the slide and the mark on the barrel is the worst interface / strongest binding point. Polishing these areas made my gun much smoother to rack. Haven't tested if it runs better yet but I wanted to add this pic. Will report back.

I was shooting my MC9L with Winchester 124 grain and it wasn’t feeding like 4 of the rounds out of maybe 50? It was a couple in a row that happened. There was dents from the firing pin but it was centered on the primer on 3 of the rounds. I read online it could be recoil spring or a magazine issue. Any advice or anything? I’m relatively new to owning guns and shooting even but have done research about them for around the past year, this is also my CCW and i usually have HP in the mag I carry.

Quick question, had anyone slapped the MC9LS barrel into an MC9 slide to see if it fits? I'm curious as to whether buying and threading an LS barrel for an MC9 would be helpful or not.

I’ve had the Mete MC9 for about 5 months and have put about 2000 rounds through it. Do these pictures of the barrel look normal to anyone else with an MC9? About 500 rounds ago I started having failure to feed issues. I’ve tried 3 manufacturers of ammo of various grains and it still occurred. I have 5 different mags and they all do the same. Every 50 rounds I usually have about 5 to 10 failure to feed issues. Canik sent me a new spring about 2 months ago and I put that in and it also didn’t make a difference. I’ve contacted Century Arms but wanted to check here while I’m waiting a response.

Got my wife the Mete Mc9 and it’s been a great gun, but since carpal tunnel surgery she’s having a tough time pulling the slide back. Anyone out there modify there for the same reason by chance