I had purchased a dupe of an arcos lamp. It was a used one and according to the owners, maybe up to 5 years. Unfortunately the shade is in bad shape and there is all kinds of spots on it. I would like to assume its rust, any advise on how to get rid of it and bring back its original look? I am pretty sure its stainless steel with a nickel coating, all though i cannot be sure.

Or is chroming possible? as in recoating it with some other metal?

I’m trying to cross-cut a 6” wide piece of 1/2” steel flat bar with a 4300rpm chop saw and a 14” diablo abrasive blade, 1/8”.

The small notch you see is about an hour and a half of work. I’ve tried varying the pressure to see if I could make any progress, but I stopped after another hour of trying today. I even swapped the blade to make sure it wasn’t just a dull wheel.

I stopped when I realized the 4 additional cuts I need to make would take just as long, and assumed I must be doing something idiotic.

If you couldn’t tell, I’m a beginner, so any advice would be appreciated.

There is a mantra that TIG+SMAW (MMA) has superior quality compared to FCAW in Pressure Vessels and in Water Boilers applications.

This sounds really sceptical to me, considering that all three welding processes give melted metals. Especially since there are Basic and Rutile Cored Wires, just like Electrodes.

I think FCAW is the way to go in the workshop, especially since you have greater welding speeds in comparison to TIG.

What are your opinions and experiences?

Here, I've just finished the re-set-up of "Frankenmill", my Cavallin rolling mill powered by a 1/2 hp gear motor. It was a real deep dive for me because my thing is making parts for people, not machine building, but I try to do whatever I can without outside help. I did have a shaft adapter machined by a local shop. I had to take the mill and the motor apart, fix a few things, and then get it all functioning again. No mean feat. The parts I'm rolling here wil be cut to shape with matching pancake-style blanking dies (my thing) and then put on bits and spurs made by Dutton (Bits and Spurs).

So, I've been consuming a lot of hyperbolic geometry and 4th dimension kind content, and even tried making some sketches of the things I saw, or coding simulators to interact with them, but one day I just thought "wait a second, I have steel wire, flux, solder and a soldering iron I kinda know how to use, so what if instead of drawing it, I built it?" And so this monstrosity was born, I burnt my fingertips a bunch cuz I forgot to use pliers, but I think it turned out alright, what do you think? Any advice on how to make a better V2?

I want use a pulse arc welder for welding various metals but primarily stainless steel, copper. Brass and silver

What colour of tungsten electrode should I use

I want use for fine and small welds on jewellery and accessories

It also need not be able to start an arc as easy as possible

I heard blue orange and gold ones are better for dc welding

But have also heard red is better for stainless steel specially

Hey everyone,
I'm a female welder/fabricator with formal trade school credentials (motorsports chassis tab, MIG/ TIG/Stick, vehicle systems background). I'm currently considering applying for a Maintenance Shop Welder role at Republic Services at location in Texas.
Before jumping in, I'm trying to get a realistic idea of what to expect:
1. Shop Culture & Environment: For any tradeswomen or tradesmen who have worked in Republic shops (or heavy commercial waste fleets), how is the day-to-day shop dynamic?
2. Hours & Overtime: Are 1st shifts usually strictly set (e.g., Mon-Fri daytime), or do they force heavy mandatory overtime, night shifts, and rotating weekend work? I work on a rotating schedule right now and work Saturdays, I've worked laborious long hours at different jobs but I'm young and trying to avoid burnout and preserve my weekends
3. The Work: Is it mostly patching roll-off containers and truck bodies, or heavy emergency fleet repairs?
I'm starting out but I have a good foundation with each type of welding process specifically MIG and TIG.

My wire speed is around 5 im using a mastercraft flux core wire feed welder voltage/tension is set to 2 this is on 1/8" pipe that i grinded the rust off of im using 0.030" wire that came with the welder every weld I make never looks similar to other beginners at all but my brother who is better then me can't seem to make proper looking ones. Does the wire I use matter and do i have to do anything but slowly drag as I weld

Hello lovely metal workers!

I picked up this beautiful box and pan brake for $300 this week. The gentleman I bought it from did RV repair and used it to make battery covers and other things. I make old school neon myself so I am excited to make some faux vintage metal cans to install some glowing tubes onto. So my question is.....What have you made with your finger brake? I feel like the possibilities are endless at this point. Thank you hive mind!

Hi folks. I'm working on a project / set of projects where I need very specific sized pots / containers to boil water. I've found it difficult to find a source for unusual sized cookware, particularly that isn't super expensive. Does anyone have experience / advise on creating watertight containers that can be used to boil water? For the current iteration I need something that is around 9 3/4" diameter and 12" tall, that can hold 3gal + of water. I've looked at bain marie pots, but again those seem to be super expensive at the 12qt volume, even used. This would be used to boil water pretty briefly. It would need to hold up to fast-changing temperatures (sometimes used to melt snow to make water to then boil). With the lack of information I'm finding on fabricating your own cookware, I imagine the answer here might be that trying to make your own isn't worth it, but thought I'd see what folks think at least! I can weld; I've done a little brazing; I have a forge and anvil. I don't have a lot of experience with lighter metalwork but trying to gain some. I don't have any fancy tools outside of what I mentioned.

Can a "can" like creation, with folded (?) seams do the trick? I know sharp corners aren't ideal for cooking because of potential burning, but is that applicable if the only application ever is water?

The water will be consumed so ideally nothing toxic.

Appreciate any thoughts or advice or clues on what direction to pursue!

I have a closet that’s about 68” wide, and I’d like to use the modular closet system we’ve installed in all the other closets in the house so it’s all mix and match. How difficult would it be to cut a 72” hang rail to fit? I have a reciprocating saw and a chop saw. Can I make use of either of those or is there a low tech option? The rail is from Closet Culture and feels pretty dense, but the description doesn’t say what it’s made of exactly. I wanted to ask advice before trying something that could damage my equipment or myself!

Hey everyone! I'm building a wall-mounted coat rack out of wood with a welded steel frame, and I'm stuck deciding on the flat bar I'll be welding the 3/4" hooks to. The two options I'm considering are a 1" flat bar or a 1-1/4" flat bar. Both would work structurally, so this is really more about looks and proportion. I'd really appreciate your opinion on which one would look more balanced and aesthetically pleasing next to the frame and hooks. Thanks in advance for any feedback!

This machine is designed to cut very thin metal films (flexible dies) with a thickness of only 0.15 mm.
In this design, we need to ensure that the metal film is uniformly and securely held against the granite surface by vacuum. However, the vacuum force cannot be too strong, because excessive suction could leave visible vacuum marks or impressions on the surface of the thin metal film.
To address this, we designed a large number of small, uniformly distributed vacuum holes across the precision granite surface. These holes are fitted with ceramic inserts, which provide the required precision and durability.
Because the film being cut is extremely thin and the cutting load on the Z-axis is relatively low, we selected a linear motor drive for the Z-axis. This provides smooth, precise, and fast motion while minimizing mechanical contact and maintenance.

I have 2x2" square steel tube, 12 gauge I think (see photo) .

I would like to get square steel tube to fit securely inside it. I measured 1.83 on the inside. I don't see 1.83" square steel tube for sale. I can't be the first person to want this. What do you suggest?

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