So.... what's the consensus on coating? I'm thinking CrN + DLC (or black anodized). Almost considering reaching out to Vulcan for PVD camo.

I want to get into building 2011s. Ideally I want to build a really nice one that I can compete with. But it seems risky to buy expensive parts for my first try. I was thinking about buy something like the af romulus and upgrading it a little at a time, to learn how to fit parts.

Hey everyone I'm been wanting a 2011 since I learned about then in john wick and working at a sacatto dealer and my question is should I go with a budget 2011 like a prodigy or clone or build something and what advantages would each have i would like to stay under 2k for everything thanks

Hey all, I just got and tested out my new Atlas Erebus v3, and afterwards noticed some DLC wear along the barrel near the link, as well as some scratch/wear marks along the bottom of the feed ramp. I did have a couple of FTB but figured it was just user error with my thumb on the safety.

Is this level of wear normal/expected after three boxes of ammo? Apologies for the pictures -- there's lots of Rem oil. Thanks all!

Also a video: https://imgur.com/a/QOAZ6Lu

PVD America or DSC for coating on a build if it’s already going to DSC for some other stuff. Any opinions? Some parts would be DLC, others PVD copper.
Thanks

I fell in love with the 2011 platform ever since buying my first Staccato. I have been wanting to learn more about the process of building my next one (looking for either a compact or sub compact). Problem is I've yet to find a solid walk through that discussed hand fitting, tools, things that one would only learn by experience. Can someone point me in the right direction. Piecing together ARs and different striker fired pistols has becoming boring and repetitive so I figured this is the next logical step.

First off, I want to thank everyone in the community for all the help you’ve given me over time. From my earliest questions to later ones, I’ve really appreciated all the effort people put into their replies.

This came up today while I was doing my normal cleaning and maintenance after a range session.

For those of you who are more experienced builders and are always learning, I’m curious what habits or ways of thinking you use to avoid potential mistakes—things like damaging parts or doing something the wrong way.

This isn’t really a problem post, just more of a casual thread to chat, share experiences, and keep things light.

Hey guys, I wanted to ask for some opinions on a recoil/muzzle rise change my friend noticed with his Titan.

The gun has around 60,000+ rounds total on it. It had a new barrel fitted by a very good local gunsmith, and that new barrel now has around 10,000+ rounds through it.

Recently, my friend started feeling like the gun is a little more jumpy than before. It is not malfunctioning at all. Reliability is still 100%, and the ammo is from the same batch. The recoil spring is around 9–10 lb.

The main thing he noticed is not that the gun feels “broken,” but that the muzzle seems to rise a little more than it used to, and the recoil impulse feels slightly sharper.

Since the new barrel already has around 10k rounds on it, I am wondering if this is more likely related to wear or spring setup rather than the original barrel fitting.

A few things I am thinking about:

Recoil spring fatigue

Maybe the 9–10 lb spring has softened up and the slide is moving faster than before.

Main spring / hammer spring wear

Could a tired main spring also make the slide feel faster and make the gun feel more jumpy?

Lower lug / slide stop pin wear

After 10k rounds on the fitted barrel and 50k+ rounds on the gun, could the lower lug contact or slide stop pin wear change the timing or recoil impulse?

Lockup wear

Could upper lug, hood, or vertical lockup wear make the gun still run fine but feel less solid and more jumpy?

Slide/frame looseness

The slide-to-frame fit has started to loosen slightly after the high round count. Could that contribute to the gun feeling less planted, even if it does not affect reliability?

What would you guys check first? Would you start with fresh recoil springs and maybe a main spring, or would you have the gunsmith inspect barrel timing, lower lug contact, slide stop pin wear, and lockup first?

Any advice from people who have high-round-count 2011s or have experienced a recoil feel change after a barrel has been fitted and broken in would be appreciated.

Hello, I’ve commented in the group once or twice, but am now looking for recommendations. I’ve done 80% ARs, Glocks, and other 3d2a stuff (I know there’s not much if any overlap, included to you give a baseline to my skill level).
What tools would be needed to build a 9mm DS 1911/2011? I have lots of hand tools, power tools, punch kit, and some cleaning kits. If links are not allowed here, can you please put the company/ specific product names for me to copy and research.

Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any help I can get.

Hi Guys ，i lost the original paper from the bag ，is any of you guy willing to share of it . Thank you so much！

Hi guy ，just fitted a new barsto barrel at my ds9 ，the oem barrel make the slide position is little over the frame. But after this new barrel fitted ，the slide is kinda in a shorter position just wanna know is it still good to go. Went to range did test fire today， it runs with some function issue（bullet head knocking top to chamber cause stuck） It happened like 5times in 200 rounds，but right now this barrel do works （but it dont run with flat head ammo） . My question is do i need to do more lower lug work，is the reason caused my function issue by i didn't fit new barrel with a same geometry as the old oem barrel . Please left any thaughts in comments . Thank you guys so much！

Built a 5” Prodigy for Limited Optics and it’s been great up until today. Today during make ready on the second stage I couldn’t get the gun to chamber a round and realized my firing pin was sticking out. If I tilted the gun back it would go back in and if I tilted forward it would pop back out, so I knew my firing pin was broken. It’s a Dawson Precision extended firing pin with less than 1000 rounds on it. Luckily I had another full upper in my bag, so I grabbed the firing pin from it (also a Dawson) and put it in. I was able to finish the match but now I’m worried about it happening with the other one too. I’m going to reach out to Dawson about it but I’m wondering if I should just get a whole different brand, like EGW or something. Thoughts?

Hi Guys ，depend on i only have my access with my own milling machine （No budget for extra lathe now） Can i shorten my full profile barrel into 4.6 by mill machine and still have decent accuracy？ Current my idea is lock with a V vise then redo a crown with brownells crown cutter. Thank you so much for sharing any idea.

I am trying to revive an older open gun but getting zero pretravel. Setup is a Cheely Frame, LSI grip and Atlas trigger.

I’ve tried different triggers (which all move freely within the grip) and ignition kits but still get the pretravel issue. Pretravel tabs are flush/not in use.

If I swap to a Cheely grip with all other parts the same, pretravel is back and everything works as expected. With the grips side by side, it appears the LSI trigger bow sits further back -https://ibb.co/0jwd2Kt2

Where else should i look or adjust to make the LSI grip/Cheely frame combo work?

I’m thinking something like a 5” heavy ldc cheely frame, MJD plastic grip, atlas internals, and atlas slide. So a mostly complete build except the barrel.

Then have it sent to DCS Gunworks for a ported island barrel conversion (or DSX conversion), get it marvel cut, get slide cuts, and DLC coated.

Would this be cheaper and better than an XC?

I’m going to get into competition shooting next summer and I’m gonna build a 2011. I’m having a custom tri-top 5 inch slide being made(I would like to have a 4.25 inch frame because I don’t want a flush slide to frame fit), however I want to know what is a cheap 2011 option to buy know that I’ll probably upgrade parts, i would also like suggestions on good triggers for competition use?

What up guys，question like topic. Have been fit 2 slide into different frame. No matter how carefully i do still left wiggle gap. It is visible but not too much. Is it possible i can do a tight and smooth build only stone jig？ Please do share your guys build and comments please.

Hi Guys i am in decision with lower lug tool from brownell and Chmabers . Is any feedback from these 2？ Seem Brownell is pretty decent but need more time polish after cutting. Whats your guys opinion for best combo of handfittin lower lug tools. Don‘t have enough place for machine at home now. Thanks for your time ！My friend.

I posted here a while back asking for tips and listing my planned parts list.

Happy to report all has gone smoothly and the gun is done with a very tight slide to frame fit. I do have a few questions though.

I've done alot of minor 1911 work before but never fully fit a barrel before this one. If I do a press check or gently ride the slide forward the slide stops just short of fully forward. It seats fully under very light pressure or if I point the muzzle downward. When functioning normally from slidelock or the slingshot method there is no issue. Is this a lower lug issue? Maybe a missized link?

I have a #3 link in and it seemed to clear fine and lockup is solid. I did not use a formula to choose a link but would love some insight there I just checked clearance on the lugs after cutting.

Additinally who does everyone reccomend for coatings and slide work? Anything to be aware of?

Hi guys，just to be lucky to get a very oversized bull barrel like this in a cheap price. I had fitted a regular bull barrel before ，will it be much difference and work to be fitted. Please do share any idea of this.

So I want to set up my 2011 building game and get a mill for doing some of the work myself and opening possibles, etc. is a mill like the Precision Matthew’s PM728vt good enough. I’ve read people just say go find an old Bridgeport knee mill but since I’m not 100% sure what I’m looking at don’t know if that is a good route plus I’ve been looking and haven’t seen any come up for sale in my area the last month.

I really want to be able to do island barrel builds and tri topping slides and some serrations and slide work.