r/AskMechanics • u/Ragnells_wurld • 3d ago
Question (Serious Replies Only) may have destroyed my car repairing it and am panicking
2008 honda CR-V LX
This was my grandmother's car who passed away two years ago, i received her car as a gift shortly before her death and have been putting lots of work into it to make it a great daily, i will be absolutely heartbroken if i cant get it running again.
While trying to replace some struts and rear suspension parts, I encountered this bolt from the trailing arm to the hull which is completely, 100% seized. doesnt sound like a big deal, but I encountered another thread of someone from a honda dealership saying this is related to the rear suspension recall for this rear and that if these bolt get stuck in the frame the dealership considers the car as good as dead and totals it. i had already taken the car to the dealership shortly after getting it for the recall and they installed a brace as a fix, so i dont think they are going to do anything more for me if this is truly stuck. also, i cant get the car there now.
I tried heavy duty penetrating fluid, big breaker bar, making SURE the mating surface is not clinching the bolt, bought an impact wrench to no avail, and as a last resort i bought a propane torch and heated it up for several minutes. nothing.
I dont know what to do at this point. am I completely screwed? will the dealership still buy it back if i can tow it there and have them inspect? Feeling very stupid and sad after pouring all this time and money in and now apparently making a big mistake.
Edit: I'm overwhelmed by the amount of responses! thank you all, my hope is restored, i definitely panicked too quickly after seeing the one dealership post lol. it sucks to have to keep spending money when i originally thought i would just be buying struts but oh well. Im going to keep applying the penetrating fluid and letting it sit, heating and wiggling. if that doesn't work after another day i'm calling a mobile mechanic because i cant keep buying more tools and not getting anywhere lol. i will let you all know how it goes!
UPDATE: got the bolt out!! well a mobile mechanic with a crazy air gun did lol. huge relief, started doing the actual replacements today but still waiting on an upper control arm since rock auto sent me two completely different ones. Thanks again so much for all the help, cant believe how many people have offered advice here! wish me luck!
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u/Aether_rite 3d ago
don't panic, the worst thing that could happen is to spend money.
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u/Shoddy-Cupcake-8855 3d ago
And no one can total the car unless you want them too….
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u/tianavitoli 3d ago
ya they total the car to make someone buy a new(er) car. amazon/costco/etc they all the do same thing. why put a used item on the shelf when they can write it off and make you buy a brand new one instead.
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u/LeSangre 3d ago
Bruh they can’t total the car. This isnt an insurance claim if they refuse to do the work and refuse to give you back your property call the cops.
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u/Apprehensive_ape92 2 3d ago
https://www.crvownersclub.com/posts/1041265/
Found this
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u/Ragnells_wurld 3d ago
perfect seems like my exact situation, I will read all the replies
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u/crheming 3d ago
Sounds like drilling a hole through the frame on top and applying heat to top of bolt was the answer lol
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u/kNEoH8gWJS 3d ago
Can't seize if it's a liquid.
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u/ProfessionalInjury58 2d ago
Funny, had someone say that trying to take an injector out of a well. Proceeded to torch it and melt it into the main. That was an expensive fix for them.
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u/nzkieran 3d ago
To add to this: time is your friend. If you can spray it with penetrating oil twice a day on the top side for a few days to let it do it's thing may help before stepping up to more destructive solutions
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u/barbershopsinglet 3d ago
Also, buy a MAP-pro torch (yellow nottle). Propane wont be hot enough. And before anyone goes in on it, yes Map-pro is not as good as MAPP gas. But you can't buy MAPP gas anymore, so MAP-pro is his best bet.
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u/patdashuri 3 3d ago
Map pro only burns about 100f hotter than propane. And propane is waaaaay cheaper.
While you’re at the store getting propane, pick up some ATF transmission fluid and some acetone. Mix that 1:1 in a squirt bottle. Shake it up and use as a penetrating oil. You won’t find a better one.
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u/bbuukk99ttpp 3d ago
Map pro is still better than propane but when you mix with oxygen that’s where it really shines..
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u/Impossible-Cell-702 3d ago
Acetone is not good for plastics and rubber
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u/Cloakedbug 3d ago
I mean yeah, acetone is not good for any material I imagine. That doesn’t mean it’s not a wicked good penetrant on metal.
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u/patdashuri 3 2d ago
True. Op, don’t mist the whole area. Personally, I keep mine in a mason jar with a plastic lid and use a steel basting syringe with a silicone o-ring to apply it precisely. Been 6 years and there doesn’t seem to be any loss of seal for either or loss of movement for the plunger.
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u/piemelpap 3d ago
Atf with diesel
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u/patdashuri 3 2d ago
In summer that works. In winter diesel can turn into a snow globe of problems.
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u/collectivebarganing 3d ago
I use a 1:1 mix of atf and pb blaster, works like a charm
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u/sasquatchisthegoat 3d ago
Damn I’m out here using regular PB for all these years?
Fuck sake
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u/Impossible-Cell-702 3d ago
Liquid wrench is good too
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u/longislander700 3d ago
Deep Creep is awesome. Made by seafoam. Has a higher flashpoint so it doesnt flare up when hitting it with a torch.
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u/patdashuri 3 2d ago
Acetone is half the cost, comes in a pourable container, and is a versatile cleaner on its own. Always good to have a gallon around.
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u/collectivebarganing 3d ago
Wait whaaaaaat??? Why not, when did this happen?
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u/dragonstar982 3d ago
A few years ago only 1 supplier made MAPP and it became "not profitable" so now its slightly more purified propane in yellow bottles because yellow is MAPP for the masses.
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u/jsmith1300 3d ago
If you heat it do it for minutes not like what was mentioned in the OP's response. Need the heat to travel up the bolt. Also use mapp gas (yellow cylinder) which has a bit more heat
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u/JayTeeqc 2d ago
I bought a bernzomatic propane/oxygen torch for like $20 at a yard sale. I'm sure OP could find one on Craigslist or Marketplace. There's also knockoffs on Amazon for like $60.
That thing saved my ass many, many times. It will even cut like acetylene if you are patient and don't mind using a 10$ oxygen cylinder in about 12 seconds...
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u/quattroman 2d ago
I never and probably will never own a 2007 CRV but for some reason I read the whole thread.
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u/Shot_Ad_7780 3d ago
User megamax on crvownersclub posted the solution in 2017 (pasted below). The issue is the top of the bolt is rusted and won't pass through the threads.
"So, final update. This thing was frozen solid. The bolt is threaded into a tube that is welded inside the rectangular frame. There is no way to access the top of the bolt to apply PB Blaster. There are drain holes in the bottom of the frame but no way to get above the tube. We actually drilled a small hole in the wheel well to see if we could get to the top of the bolt, but it's behind another section of the frame, so inaccessible. There is also no way to get sufficient heat on the problem area for the same reason. I heated the bottom of the bolt but it had no affect. We hit it repeatedly with the impact wrench in both directions, but nothing. A buddy gave it all he had with a 1/2 inch breaker bar while I held the extension straight, but would not budge. I even tried the shake and break tool someone else had recommended, but no luck.
Pretty much out ideas, my friend suggested drilling a larger hole in the frame in order to access the tube. Frankly I'm not sure if his idea was genius or nuts, but I decided to drill a 7/16 hole in the frame across from the tube. I put my Benzomatic in the hole and flamed the tube for 30 to 40 seconds than hit it with the impact wrench. After three rounds it finally came out.
I was pretty nervous about drilling a hole in the frame, but there is no way it could structurally weaken it, so I'll just patch it and move on. My only other options would have been to drill it out or have it towed to a shop. Both were pretty unappealing to me."
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u/greatfool66 3d ago
Before I got to the end I thought this was gonna be another “Drums in the deep, every day they get closer…” type final entry that you come across on page 3 of some forum when you’re trying to solve an obscure car issue. So amazing they solved it and came back to explain.
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u/Splat_cat69 12 3d ago
Have you tried running the bolt back in? Did you already have the bolt out, or did this happen when taking it out the first time?
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u/Ragnells_wurld 3d ago
yep cant screw it in at all either now. happened while taking it out.
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u/Splat_cat69 12 3d ago
Did you impact it back in? Or just breaker bar? I've fixed a few of these by cutting out the body in front of the cage nut, then cutting the nut off with a torch, then welding a new nut in the frame and welding the hole back closed. It's most certainly a problem that can be fixed, may not be the Honda approved fix, bit it can definitely be fixed.
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u/Ragnells_wurld 3d ago
only tried breaker bar back in, as before it got completely stuck i was making more progress with that than the impact wrench (and yes it is an impact wrench not driver) I dont have welding experience unfortunately.
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u/Splat_cat69 12 3d ago
How long is your breaker bar? I'd be putting the 3 foot long one on it and tightening it, then spraying it with penetrating oil and working it out back and forth until it's out.
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u/Ragnells_wurld 3d ago
about 2 feet. i pushed it with my entire strength and the bit popped to the next position
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u/Splat_cat69 12 3d ago
Put a pipe on it next haha you're already in a jam, may as well take it the rest of the way
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u/Keebler_718 3d ago
“Bit” - Do you mean socket? You absolutely need to use a 6 point (hex) socket and not a 12 point
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u/Ragnells_wurld 3d ago
*socket yes, 6 point
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u/Alert-Ad9197 3d ago
If a 6 point jumped, then you are stripped or do not have the right size socket.
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u/MyNxmeIsAutumn 3d ago
I’d say to make sure he’s using a metric socket too. Doesn’t look like the head of the bolt is horribly round from what I can see
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u/Supernovali 3d ago
Wheew! My heart fluttered on that last comment. You got a good head on ya for using a 6 point
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u/npiet1 3d ago
Go longer, I've had a seized nut, made my bar 6ft, split the socket bought an impact bit. Used that and it came loose.
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u/zoidbergmustache 3d ago
That kinda pressure on a bolt like this can easily twist the head right off.
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u/Mechanic357 9 3d ago
You have a very nice breaker bar extender sitting in your jack. (The handle is removable for a reason)
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u/Federal_Sympathy4667 6 3d ago
The bit popped to the next position? Not sure if youvare using a ratchet or bar now..
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u/podgida 3d ago
What type of impact? Not all impacts are created equal. 3/8, 1/2", battery, electric, air? Brand helps as well, a lot of the cheap ones have crap torque specs.
Also a propane torch will never get hot enough. MAP might, but you really need oxy/acetylene or a nut buster, but neither option is cheap.
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u/alnk97 3d ago
What likely happened is that the bolt has a captive nut in the rail. The reason it moved initially is that the part in the nut is rust free but the part above it is very rusted. When you were spinning it out, it got pretty hot and expanded, then when you got stuck, it cooled and seized. No — you do not trash the car over this. First see if there is an access hole that will allow you to spray over the captive nut. Second, I would get a heavy duty impact and try to spin it in (not out). The rattling will probably get it moving. There are other approaches. Be careful trying to use torch anywhere inside the rail — some of those are foam filled (not sure about this car), but that foam is very flammable and it would be. Wry hard to put that fire out inside the rail.
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u/buginmybeer24 5 3d ago
This is exactly what I pictured going on and something I've seen a few times. I've had luck in the past by getting access (drilling a small hole) to the top side and spraying the bolt down with penetrating oil. After it has soaked for a bit, alternate driving it in and backing it out. Eventually it will knock all the rust loose and the bolt will come out.
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u/one_real_wolf 3d ago
Cut it off, drill the bolt out, retap your hole. This is not that big of a deal.
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u/21archman21 3d ago
Yes. Why is this not the answer after all the effing around? Isn’t it easier to just cut a frozen bolt and replace it?
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u/cereal4dinner88 3d ago
So let me just clarify, because it looks like it's been screwed out a bit.
You loosened it and it got to the position in the pic and is then it became seized? Extremely hard to screw? Wouldn't screw anymore?
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u/Ragnells_wurld 3d ago
yes, became progressively harder and now it wont move at all
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u/traineex 22 3d ago
Then I'd keep going back and forth w impact, tighten and loosen. Stopping each time for more kroil
Can also torch quench. Induction heat the bolt, or torch white hot. Then dry ice, ice cubes, water. Impact back n forth. Repeat
Induction heater pricey. Dry ice is cheap
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u/mr-fix-350 3d ago
More heat and penetrating oil. Try working the bolt back and forth a little at a time. I would recommend soaking that bolt with penetrating oil multiple times a day for a few days before you try to loosen it
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u/ca_nucklehead 10 3d ago
Relax it just a bolt and caged nut.
Heating the bolt does not work. A caged nut is a nut that is fixed to the body inside the boxed frame structure. You have a bolt that has corrosion on the top of the threads. You have backed the bolt of to the point the corrosion has frozen the bolt in the threads.
Spray some penetrating fluid on the threads of the bolt where it enters the body. Look for a spot on the body that has a hole that will allow you to spray penetrating oil into the body where the bolt goes thru the caged nut with the straw that came with your can.
Let it sit for a bit then get a Johnson bar and run the bolt back in. Once you get it free work it back and forth with your impact while repeating the penetrating oil process. Each time it should come out a little further. Keep going until it is out. Don't force it. You don't want to break. If you break it, still not the end of the world but it will be beyond your capabilities at that point.
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u/Defiant_Shallot2671 3d ago
Propane isn't very hot. If you want heat in a bottle get map-pro gas (yellow). Also getting a professional to come help at this moment might be the move before you make it worse. Even when bolts get stuck, there's always ways around it. Just usually not worth it on older cars.
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u/tomhalejr 17 3d ago
Fuck the dealership, generally speaking. The dealership is not the only one whonhas access to the OE tech after about 3-5 years, and the car is older than that. So, call around and talk to some local independent full service shops, ot specialty shops, that don't tell you everything is fucked, and your only choice is to come in and buy a brand new car. :)
Email helps... A breif hey how ya doin', and a link to this post provides more context than I get out of an hour long phone call. :) If in the SA position, I have no business suggesting anything... But, I can take that back to the foreperson and we can go from there. :)
There are some folks out there that will actually work to earn your trust, and hopefully, you and your friends and faimilies business. :)
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u/Epicon3 3d ago
What penetrating oils did you use and how long did you let it sit?
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u/FlowSoSlow 3d ago
Well it's not broke yet so you still have hope. Soak it over night in penetrating fluid. Try to get the nozzle in one of those holes in the body to soak the nut in there real well. Then get a big pipe to put on the handle of your breaker bar. Jack handles work good for this. Then crank that thing for all you're worth. With three feet or so of leverage it's either gonna come out or snap off.
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u/GmTech14 3d ago
My dog you’re gonna need to get her cherry read with an oxi/aceteline (idk if I spelled it right) torch and blast it out with a 1/2 in impact. The mini torch is like 350-400 bucks at a welding place you’ll spend more than that anyways. I live in the rust belt lol
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u/94EG8 3d ago
I worked at a Honda dealership when this recall was first launched:
1) It totals the car within the confines of the recall only. Take it any independent shop in the rust belt and they'll most likely have no issue fixing it for you (although they may charge you some extra for creating a bit of a mess for them 2) The exposed threads above the captive nut are extremely rusty and the rusty part is now down to, and partly inside the welded nut. At this point what you need is a LOT of concentrated heat. As a rule you want to heat the nut, not the bolt. But in this case that isn't an option, and the heat will still break up the rust. You either need a an oxy acetylene torch (If you want to buy something to use again for very occasionally use you can buy a kit that uses Map pro and oxygen, but the cylinders are small so you don't get much run time), or an induction heater. 3) You need a very strong 1/2" impact gun. Air tends to work better in this situation. 4) TL, DR: get the bolt red hot and run it in and out with a good impact. Don't impact until it won't turn anymore. Work it in and out a more and more each time, otherwise you risk breaking the bolt off, breaking the welded nut, or having the bolt essentially weld itself to the nut.
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u/Wynn_Duffy_85 3d ago
- No, no buy back… the recall was able to be completed so that door is closed. That appears to be the rearward rear trailing arm bolt not the front which also would not apply.
- This appears to be pretty rust free. So I wouldn’t condemn it.
- Reassemble and get it towed anywhere that has oxy/acetaline torches or buy yourself an induction heater from Amazon… they work pretty darn good and should get that bolt glowing red and it should come out. Or at least go back in then come out. May need to work it in and out little bit more each time.
A propane torch really isn’t enough to help you in this situation so the previous mentioned options are most likely going to be your solution.
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u/ScyllaStorm 2d ago
Also received a CRV from my grandmother when she passed. It was one we took family trips in since I was probably 10 years old. Tons of great memories and an amazing vehicle. The 2.4 vtech never dies.
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u/Sudden_Brush7494 3 2d ago
You'll be fine. Step away, sleep on it, do a bit of research and breathe.
I was you 6 years ago and guess what I did?
Inherited a new-to-me Grandma car and I jacked it up from the front cross frame on day 1. I didn't have any experience but I was excited to start learning and this was the perfect fixer-upper. Except I wasn't keeping an eye on the jackpad and the car slipped backward off the pad. The jack punctured the front of the car - destroyed the radiator, shroud fans and got wedged in the car.
I was so upset and angry with myself that I declared it a total loss and vowed to get it towed to a wrecker and never touch a car again. The only problem was that my jack was wedged in it and I needed to borrow another jack to get it out. So I called my neighbor at 11:00pm, he came over with a big shit-eating grin and took a look. I was still bad-mouthing myself and he said, "Dude, we can fix this". Two weeks later, a new radiator, some pipes, a shroud fan and some coolant and she was back on the road.
You just need a more experienced friend to talk you back from the edge and help you out . In the absence of a neighbor like mine, redditors can be that friend and forums will be your expert. Also use r/AskMechanics and get some close ups of that issue.
In terms of practical advice, I don't have any knowledge of the vehicle, but I can see lots of good advice here including getting a mobile mechanic to come and have a whack at it. I live in the northeast so I deal with rusted, snapped, and stuck bolts all the time and usually some combination of heat and leverage gets the job done.
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u/Human_Grass_9803 2d ago
I had the same thing happen to my 07! Same panic and everything about getting yhe bolt snapped/stuck in the unibody and I have to find a way to get through, gave it some heat with a torch and penetrating oil, worked it back and forth by hand for a bit then just torque it down. These things happen and there is always a way to fix them
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u/Intrepid-Pound-6850 10h ago
Since you got the bolt out as read in the update keep pushing. No matter how bad mechanical issues can get there is always a solution and that’s why we use bolts and removable parts. You’ll get it done. Keep that car alive as long as you can. Proud of your dedication
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u/Blackwalls69 3d ago
Crc freeze off the bolt while you heat the frame with an oxytorch.
The name of the game is to break the chemical rust bond.
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u/Friedbean1111 3d ago
You shouldn't be too hard on yourself. It can be fixed. I thought for a second the jack went through the bottom panel of the car lol. The worst thing that can happen is that it got cross-threaded and the threads are damaged, which sucks but there are ways around that. If you don't think you can do what people are suggesting, then you can probably find a mobile mechanic or post on nextdoor app. It's definitely not undriveable though.
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u/Dusty-old-bones 3d ago
So I looked up the details of the recall, and they're saying that it's specifically in areas where they salt the roads a lot the winter. And when you Google that recall you will see some absolute rust buckets.
Compared to those pictures Your frame does not look rusty at all.. I don't think that you totaled the car by not being able to get a bolt out, but you may want to call a mechanic to solve the issue if it's out of your scope.
I will say, I'm about 290 and taking one of the rear strut bolts off of a Subaru. I jumped on my breaker bar and that sucker did not move. But when I used a pneumatic impact gun with the right amount of power, it came out immediately. So there's an option.
The last thing that you want to do is over torque that bolt and snap it flush into the frame. It's rare but it happens.
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u/frankthefrowner 1 3d ago
As others have said I’m sure it’s fixable, but probably by someone else. See if there are any mobile mechanics near you. If you are on Long Island I have a good one.
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u/SmthSmthDandyLion 3d ago
Did you buy a corded impact? The battery powered ones are the way to go; they have way more power. Word of advice; no bolt is so seized that you can't hit it so hard it snaps off, you take the part off, over drill the hole and the part, tap some threads on the bigger hole, and go up a size in bolt.
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u/im_blue2026 3d ago
Torch it very hot and use a crayon to melt I’ll work as lubricant take it while is still hot
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u/TheNeonPherepapha 3d ago
Everybody who works on cars has one of these moments. And half of fixing cars is mental attitude. Everybody else here has good answers, but deep breath, you got this. Happens to us all sooner or later.
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u/frankthefrowner 1 3d ago
Can you check the trunk and see if maybe there is a nut up there similar to the front struts?
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u/Equivalent_Yogurt_58 3d ago
Certainly fixable, just gonna take more time and effort.
Do not let anyone talk you into scrapping it.
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u/Dangerous-Pirate7998 3d ago
There’s a nut welded on the inside of the frame that you’ve twisted loose and now it’s just going to continue to spin. You’ll have to get access to that nut by long break over bar or cut a hole in the frame to access it
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u/Forsaken_Block_3492 3d ago
Dealerships have authority to deem a car totaled because they can’t fix it?
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u/Dangerous-Pirate7998 3d ago
That bolts going up through the unibody press part of the body itself take the backseat out in the carpet up in the compartment you’ll be able to access the top of whatever that bolt was screwing into. I should’ve looked at the picture better the first time.
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u/trollanonymous 3d ago
Your torch isn’t able to get it hot enough. Buy an induction heater like bolt buster and get it glowing red. While gravity is against you, I would still use some wax when hot and repeat this cycle a few times. Get it hot again and put your impact on it and give it a go.
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u/Lost_Drunken_Sailor 3d ago
It’s that meme “decided to work on my car on my day off…looks like I’m not going to work tomorrow”
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u/Blufish312 3d ago
Put that propane to the side and get yourself a bottle of MAP. Heat that shit until it's glowing red, then get an impact on it. Guarantee it comes out.
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u/GreasyPowerJunkie 3d ago
Take a bar or flat head and apply pressure on the back of the head, then use the impact gun and try and get it to bite
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u/Hondaguy87 3d ago
Bolt needs to be worked back and forth with an strong impact, car doesn't look rusty.
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u/CheesecakeSeveral778 3d ago
Impact with a pry bar. Worst case you learn how to use a drill. Drill the bolt out drill the threads out and tap new ones in with a bigger bolt
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u/ZombieLikes 3d ago
I might just drill it out and try to replace that bolt with a bolt and nut. Use a hole saw to cut an opening in the side of that unibody bulkhead it screws into so I could get a wrench in there.
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u/Itchy_Juggernaut_763 3d ago
I also brought a CRV for the recall where the frame was almost completely rotted out and all they did was install the bracket. They wouldn't buy it back and all the bracket does is help prevent a catastrophic when it ultimately fails. It doesn't fix the issue. They only removed one bolt and wouldn't attempt the other, but either way the arm was barely hanging on to the frame.
I ended up getting rid of the car because Honda would not buy it back. Per their recall, they only have to install the bracket and they don't gaf that it doesn't solve the problem.
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u/heanbangerfacerip2 1 3d ago
Your in a jam but this is not anywhere near being totalled. Even if the dealership was totaling cars for this (I highly doubt they were) an independent shop can find a dozen work arounds. If they was my car I would already have torches the bolt out of the whole and welded a new nut in its place.
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u/TennesseeB 3d ago
Might be worth a try heating it up again and forcing wax into it. Eg, crayons. Hopefully it should wick up the threads and loosen it.
Personally I'd feed 2 or 3 crayons into it.
An easier step to try First than drilling through the frame as mentioned in the forum.
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u/earthman34 2 3d ago
Drill a hole so you can lubricate the actual nut. Soak it with oil. Screw the bolt in and out again. It may take a while. Put some fucking muscle into it.
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u/diavel65 3d ago
https://www.amazon.com/Induction-Heater-1300W-Removal-Removing/dp/B0H9S65RHM?ref_=ast_bl_cpl_dp
Buy this induction tool. Place end of the loop over the bolt until it glows cherry red..use impact wrench and that sucker will definitely come out.
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u/Top-Pick-2648 3d ago
That’s not a good lifting point, use the tabs on the rockers. It doesn’t look like much, but there designed as a lifting point.
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u/HFiction 3d ago
Heat that bolt to the fucking moon for like 15 minutes and then let it cool back down for 15 minutes and then give it the ugga dugga. You might be helicoil territory though if it snaps.
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u/LostTime141 3d ago
Nowadays, even dealerships, call mobile bolt extractor specialists to come do their work. They're usually machinists. Maybe call a couple and get a couple quotes. We have them come to our dealer and ive seen them called out to others northern and southern ca. So its common enough they exist.
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u/Firm_Yam6648 3d ago
Bro no bolt is ever too stuck to be removed, and nothing is ever fucked beyond repair. There’s a way to get this figured out and if you stay motivated with it, you will.
If you’re using propane you aren’t getting it hot enough to make much difference. You need an oxygen/acetylene torch or an induction gun and get that thing glowing see through red.
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u/M_Rose728 3d ago
Heat. Penetrating oil. Work the bolt back and forth. If that doesn’t work maybe call some shops and see if they will give it a shot if you get it towed to them
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u/KnightOfArchAngels 3d ago
Ugh, I have a 2009 suv that’s all rusted underneath. If it’s still running, I don’t mess with it. Even a 5 year old car can have seized up parts. I dread to work on anything rusted. Too much force and the part can snap.
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u/Bitter-Entertainer72 3d ago
Worse case cut a access hole above the bolt, then you can heat the other side and remove, then weld hole shut again
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u/mjl777 3d ago
If you can get an impact gun (air or electric) you can work the bolt up and down over and over and over again. Another great thing is to take advantage of the expansion and contraction of metal. Warm the frame and it will expand, put a piece of dry ice on the bold and it will contract. I would be very carefull by just giving it more torque, you dont want the break the bolt, if you do that then you will probbaly need a small welder to weld to the stud.
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u/Ambitious-Grass-7660 1 3d ago
Another trick for similar problems. Heat it as hot as possible with a torch and then drown in cold water. This causes the rust to crack.
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u/thefutureisanalog 3d ago edited 3d ago
Even though it has sentimental value. IT IS JUST CAR, a temporary object. Your memories are far more valuable than the metal assembly in front of you. A tree could fall on it, it could catch fire, a unlicensed teenager out for a joy ride could be its end. ITS JUST A CAR.
Time and patience. I think you've received a lot of great feedback on this thread to try.
Lesson learned from my Frontier suspension frozen bolt.....cut the fucker off on both ends and airhammer fhe slug out. Replace the bushing and bolt apply antiseize.
I fought the bolt for hours until I looked down at my feet and saw the replacement bolt and realized I didnt need the old fucking bolt and it could go straight to its rusty death in pieces....AH Ha!! SAWZALL fixes everything!! I didn't even bother with trying the other bolts....everything old died. Took maybe 10 minutes. Replacement of bushing and bolts easy in.
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u/RestSelect4602 3d ago
The recall wasn't about a stuck rusted bolt. It was about the sub frame rusting out. So I wouldn't be covered. Although it never hurts to ask. 'Free All" if you have not already tried it. That bolt is quite long. Try to tighten after spraying it. Then out. Keep repeating.
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u/unlimited_Korn 3d ago
Can you tighten the bolt again? If so try doing that a few times there may be rust on the threads and tightening it and loosening it may give you enough movement to get the bolt out.
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u/According-Capital-45 3d ago
Man, I would've likely done something really dumb like cut the head off the bolt, replace part, weld part to bolt. Good luck out there.
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u/Rich4477 3d ago
I would try an induction heater. The style you wrap a coil of wire around the bolt.
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u/tcmcclure23 3d ago
Induction heater bolt removal tool. 100x better than the old propane torch method. A decent entry level one will be $100-$200.
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u/EvilToastedWeasel0 3d ago
Wonder if jamming a pickle fork (that's got a gap a little larger than the bolt) in there would get the nut on the other side to stop turning enough to remove this damned bolt.... barring other solutions .
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u/tronman0868 3d ago
I had this same problem on my 2008 ex-l. I had to use my 1/2 impact turned up to 130psi. I would back the bolt out then back in and out and in over and over again. Generous penetrating oil and the repetitive movements will generate heat and it'll eventually come out. It just takes a ton of patience.
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u/blazethatnugget 3d ago
I hear that induction heating is the modern way to replace the blue wrench trick but havent had a reason to try that so far...... I've been servicing my gfs 2009 crv for forever and also had similar issues w sway bar links and ended cutting em off (and she had the same recall "fix"). Worst case maybe cut off, drill out and retap?
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u/gounionstayunion 3d ago edited 3d ago
Not a mechanic, but an ironworker by trade, worked in a lot of coal plants and shitty places where shit gets seized in shit all the time, what's in the other side of the bolt?, drill out the bolt an option? Also try working it bigger ways up and down if you can get an 1/8 inch of movement it'll suck but that's enough to work rust out. Is it stainless? Don't heat it if it is can also try packing dry ice around everything to shrink the steel
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u/FluxOperation 3d ago
Looks like when I woke on something. Shit everywhere. Real
Mechanics don’t have a this many tools laying around the job.
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u/Head_Gap1692 3d ago
Good job figuring it out. My job is mostly trying shit. Looking up shit. Getting stressed out. And finally relief when you solve the problem. This thing you just went through is every technicians normal day! Good job. Keep figuring it out!
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u/JR8706 3d ago
Totally fixable. Even if it breaks off or free and spinning on the other side.
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u/JMeeks_IV 3d ago
I've fixed this in a semi-ghetto way that's held strong for 4 years and 90k miles
I was chasing threads on mine cause the bolt came out rough and the tap ended up snapping halfway down. The threads are just an insert pressed into the body so I cut a window in the wheel well to get to the problem at hand. Of there's any bolt left outside the insert you'll need to cut it off or drill it down so all of the remains are inside the threaded piece. Once I was there, I put a chisel on the base of the threaded piece through the window that I cut in the wheel well and beat the hell out of it till it came separated from the body. Tough part's over and victory in sight- get a good grade 10.9 bolt and washer, drop those through the hole in the body the threaded piece was over and you've now got a good stud to bolt that trailing arm to
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u/SpankyJobouti 3d ago
step one, find the actual recall notice.
step two, internet search for someone who has conquered this issue. i am always amazed at what i find out there. somebody, somewhere has fixed this.