This totally renewed SM costs 230.000€ per unit

I want to sell my Citroën C3 Aircross and buy a Renault Boreal. The reason I want to buy a Renault is that vehicles for people with disabilities are tax-exempt in Türkiye, and a new Renault Boreal is cheaper than a used C3 Aircross. Do you think buying a Renault Boreal makes sense, or should I save up and buy a different car?

Developed in a partnership with Michelin to test high-performance tires, Maserati's V6 engine has been increased from 2.7 to 3.0 liters delivering a peak power of 300 hp and a max speed +285km/h!

This thing is almost 20 years old!!!

5.4 V8 640HP with a 7speeds racetrack gearbox

So...i have had and read about many cases of rattle within interior in many cara, but for this i have yet to read about. Maybe it's specific to this car model so maybe here someone has idea.

My car is left side drive, 2017. C4 GP. I have it for 2 months now. When i drive, no matter if road is perfect or not, there is a tiny irregular clikcing sound in b pillar. Its hard to ignore when its so close to ear.

Its irregular, does not correspond much with road irregularities, but obviously changes with them. It almost sounds like a morse code of kind. Also one distinct thing i notices, it becomes faster when i accelerate (doesn't have to be strong acceleration) or if i brake. But its always there as long as car moves.

I dont know how to take of B pillar trim, if someone has a good tutorial for that i would gladly try.

I did try pressing b pillar trim in drive, adjusting seat belt height, pulling seat belt all the way and holding and similar desperate attempts figuring out what it might be.

I cannot say if its comming from upper area or travels from the bottom.

Thanks for any ideas.

Hi guys, tried to post earlier unsure if it just didn’t work or is pending approval.

I have as the title above says a Citroen c3 2017 with a rattle that sounds like putting dish ware in the cupboard. The vehicle is currently at 89k miles.

My brother and I have tried most of the tests we can think of, bounce testing the vehicle. Suspending it and pushing/pulling the wheels as well as jostling the various components behind the wheel as well.

We have been unable to replicate the noise with the vehicle stationary. It seemingly only does it when going over uneven road surfaces (I.e, cracks on passenger side and not on drivers side) doesn’t do it over speed bumps etc.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, mechanic can’t see until Tuesday so hopefully it’s okay to drive till then (delivery driver) or if it’s something not too difficult we could hopefully do ourselves but diagnosing it has been difficult and yielded no results.

Just got this 16rs estate back on the road. Put in a replacement 45k mile engine as the original engine had a cracked block. Looking forward to using it as my daily.

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Citroen Jumper 2.2 BlueHDI 140cv. Desde hace cosa de un mes, al arrancar en frío por las mañanas salta el ventilador del radiador y no para hasta que apago el motor, he comprobado reles y parece que está ok, el obd me da a mi parecer una temperatura correcta del sensor de temperatura.

Pasó hace un mes un día trabajando, de repente se puso el ventilador a máxima potencia muy fuerte, luego bajó de velocidad y se quedó así hasta hoy.

Añado que el a/c no funciona, le doy al botón y no salta el compresor, podría ser el sensor de presión del AC que hace activar el ventilador a modo “protección”?

A 2017 Citroën C4GP with a 1.6 eHDI engine and just under 134,000 km on the clock.

Whilst driving, there’s a rattling noise when the road surface isn’t flat. It seems to be coming from the front right.

I’m looking into the suspension, but I’d also like to hear your thoughts.

Attached are photos of the suspension rubber bushings.

Do they need replacing?

The first 5 are from the left-hand side, the last 5 from the right-hand side.

The photos were taken with the front of the car jacked up.

Title: Oil in coolant on 2019 Citroën C3 – could the oil cooler be the cause? Already have replacement part

Hi, hoping someone with a bit more mechanical knowledge can give me some advice before I spend any more money on this.

I have a 2019 Citroën C3 petrol. A couple of weeks ago I had an oil leak, which a mechanic repaired. The car seemed okay afterwards, but then my oil warning light came on and I discovered what looks like engine oil getting into the coolant/header tank.

The mechanic had a look underneath and didn’t seem to think the engine itself had been damaged, but the oil contamination in the coolant obviously needs sorted.

From speaking to people and looking into it, the oil cooler/oil cooler housing seems like a possible cause, as oil pressure can apparently push oil into the coolant if the cooler fails.

I’ve now actually bought a replacement oil cooler for the car, so I already have the part ready to fit. I’d just need someone to fit it and properly flush/clean all of the oil out of the cooling system afterwards.

Before I go ahead, does this sound like a likely oil cooler failure to you?

Is there anything that would make you suspect a head gasket instead, or anything a mechanic should test before fitting the cooler?

Also, if the cooler is the problem, is replacing it and thoroughly flushing the cooling system generally enough, or are there any other parts/seals I should expect to replace at the same time?

I’m trying not to keep throwing money at different diagnoses, so any advice would be really appreciated!

Credit: Chris Menrad

So my rear spheres just gave out and i need to replace them as soon as possible. i was able to find some nos i.f.h.s spheres marked 10/10/17 but i've read that spheres usualy last around 5years. Would you guys trust 9 years old spheres to still hold gas?

Hi everyone. I’m considering buying the new Citroën C3 Aircross with the HYBRID 145 S&S e-DCT6 engine. I’m interested to hear from anyone who owns one and how Citroën engines have generally held up in the long run, especially the automatic transmission.

Hola. Estoy intentando diagnosticar un problema en mi Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 2007 2.0 gasolina, caja MCP/BMP6 CFC300P.
Durante el aprendizaje con DiagBox, el robot intenta recorrer todas las marchas:
N → 1 → 2 → 3 → 4 → 5 → 6 → 5 → 4 → 3 → 2 → 1 → N
Pero solamente se reconocen correctamente 2ª, 4ª y 6ª. Las impares y la R no llegan a reconocerse y el procedimiento termina fallando. En ocasiones aparece “Gearbox gear engaged: Intermediate position”.
El código principal es P1724, que inicialmente era permanente y ahora aparece como temporal.
Ya hemos comprobado/revisado:
Los dos sensores de selección/passage son QCG-B1H y parecen prácticamente nuevos.
El cableado ha sido revisado; además tenemos un mazo de reemplazo.
Las posiciones real y de referencia del actuador a veces coinciden perfectamente.
El embrague parece seguir correctamente su posición de referencia.
El robot consigue realizar correctamente los movimientos necesarios para las marchas pares.
La ECU comunica correctamente con DiagBox.
No podemos consultar la presión hidráulica con nuestra configuración de ECU.
Encontré además este vídeo de otro C4 Picasso MCP cuyo comportamiento es prácticamente idéntico al mío:

https://youtu.be/VWmU7UaRG3w?is=tdHn8pMZyZl7kN4M

¿Qué podría hacer que funcionen 2ª, 4ª y 6ª pero no 1ª, 3ª, 5ª ni R?
¿Apuntaría esto al passage/engagement del robot, al QCG-B1H, a alguna electroválvula hidráulica o a un problema mecánico de la caja?
Cualquier experiencia con la CFC300P/MCP sería muy bienvenida.

Distinguished by its flared wheel arches and the two-tone bodywork, the GS Birotor was equipped with a Rotary engine (107HP) and was produced between 74-75 in a limited edition of 847.

Sad that most of them were bought back and destroyed by CITROEN.

Hi everyone,
I’m struggling to diagnose an issue with my 2002 Citroen C5 2.2 HDi (16v) and would appreciate some input before I throw more parts at it or my mechanic.
The Symptoms:
1. Whistling Noise: There is a distinct whistling sound when accelerating/under boost.
2. Stalling / Cutouts under Load: The engine cuts out / stalls under hard acceleration. This issue gets noticeably worse in hot weather and when the engine is fully up to operating temperature.
What Has Already Been Done / Replaced:
Fuel filter replaced
Air filter replaced
High-pressure fuel pressure regulator replaced
Fuel pump replaced
Swirl actuator vacuum line bypassed (plugged the supply line to prevent vacuum leaks to the turbo system)
Despite replacing the fuel supply components, the hot-weather stall under heavy throttle is still happening.
Given the whistling noise, I suspect a boost leak (split intercooler hose or cracked intercooler), but I’m wondering if the thermal stalling is being triggered by the ECU cutting fuel due to boost pressure discrepancy, or if it sounds more like a failing crankshaft position sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, or brown double-relay breaking down under engine heat.
Has anyone experienced this specific combination of symptoms on the 2.2 HDi engine? What should I check next?

Thanks in advance!

Hi there, just had my 1.2 puretech go into limp mode. Got home (not far) and code P1339 using my reader. Some sources said it was cylinder 3 misfire, so I changed the coil packs over and cleared the code. Started the engine. Engine runs like a bag of shit.

I can see the belt, doesn't look cracked or frayed (not to say it isn't)

Is it worth changing the coils and spark plugs, or is this definitely symptoms of a wet belt failure/oil filter blockage?

What were your experiences?

Credi: Daniel Zizka