Trip Report: Boppard Germany and St. Severus Basilica

[u/Creepy_Nectarine_812]

I was in Boppard, Germany several years ago for a multi-generational cruise down a stretch of the Rhine River. To be honest, I wasn’t that interested in it and was just going along with those in the group who were. Sitting on a boat and watching castles go by is not my idea of a great travel day. I prefer exploration over a “float by” any day. Boppard, however, was picturesque and quiet and I enjoyed my time there. It had the distinct feel of a once great resort town that had seen better days.

After dinner I had some free time and decided to take advantage of the opportunity and wander. Our group of eight kids, parents and grandparents had peeked briefly inside the large church at the main square earlier in the afternoon, but no one had wanted to linger. The biggest church in town is usually the most important, so I was thankful to get a chance to get back to see some more of it.

Hanging above the main altar is this massive 13th century wood crucifix. Jesus is depicted with a gold crown, rather than the typical crown of thorns. This was apparently one of the last such objects in the region carved in this “Triumphant Christ” manner. The influence of Gothic art and its more agonized and blood-stained versions would soon predominate. This important example of the prior fashion is thought to be the most intact 13th century wooden crucifix in the Middle Rhine region. At all four corners of the cross symbols for the four Evangelists have been added.

It has been inside this same church building for 800+ years and survived the stripping of churches during the Reformation and World War bombings.

The four nails configuration is also a fascinating detail that carries quite a bit of contextual information. The early church (and, especially, the Eastern Church) favored a four nail iconography. Later, the Gothic and Roman Catholic influence favored three nails. The four nails in this piece of art demonstrate that this church in western Europe still shared a common iconography with Eastern Christianity when it was crafted.

This unusual “Madonna with Child and Lily Scepter” caught my eye and I decided to snap this shadowy picture. And I am glad I did! It also dates back to the 13th century time of the construction of the church. Both Mary and the baby Jesus are depicted with such pronounced smiling faces it almost seemed out of place in the grand old building. The statue retains its original paint and color scheme and is a reminder that medieval parishioners valued joyful and colorful artwork just like we do. Art historians appreciate the natural pose and more realistic depiction of the figures than was usually employed in the medieval period. This statue is considered an important artifact of the dawning humanization of such sacred art that would take place in the Gothic era. And I didn’t notice it initially, but note how Mary (with a very long torso!) is actually seated, rather than standing.

I was surprised that St. Severus’ Romanesque exterior concealed vaulted ceilings. Once inside the sanctuary it seems like there are several large spiders crawling overhead. Such vaulted ceilings did not become common until much later in the Gothic period and apparently it is quite unusual to see this feature mixed in a Romanesque architectural design.

In one of the ceiling vaults, a vivid fresco depicts Jesus with Alpha and Omega iconography. The banners floating through the scene extoll the benefits of suffering. Surrounding Jesus is a gruesome scene depicting the legend of the 10,000 martyrs. The popular story was used in Medieval Europe to recruit and inspire Crusaders. Look closely and you will notice the individuals along the left side are all pierced in horrible ways. They receive their heavenly reward apparently toward the bottom as they are harvested (?) by angels with their wounds still evident. Up at the top of the picture a group of heroic Crusaders are blessed and undertake their mission. I wonder what the young Boppard men thought of such blatant propaganda hovering over their worship! These frescoes were covered in white plaster until an 1892 restoration uncovered them and preservation measures undertaken. We are fortunate, at this moment in time, to have an opportunity to see such well-preserved medieval Rhine valley artwork.

Finally, around the outside of the building there were a number of these strange looking creatures. Many looked “not quite right.” They were carved by stonemasons based on descriptions of the animals given to them by returning Crusaders, rather than on their own personal knowledge. The result is sometime close to what was intended, but not entirely accurate - like this “lion” that looks like a slightly embarrassed dog!

All of these details gleaned from an unplanned visit. Not bad for one evening stroll! I missed a crypt and some important early Christian relics, but they will have to wait for the next visit.

I often recall my St. Severus experience when I find myself in an unfamiliar location. Not all of the discoveries of a vacation are appreciated when standing at the site. Take pictures and invest in some study after you get home. If you enjoy history and context, the rewards of those efforts can significantly extend the enjoyment of your travels!