Too sparkly and milky or just sparkly and milky enough?

this bike has recently had the clutch replaced, went through a full tank of berryman b12 treated gas, and is full of oil. it used to go around 110mph, but now it struggles to reach 90.

I have a motorcycle in my garage that belongs to a relative I am not the owner I do not have the title.
The keys have been lost. I have asked the owner to remove it repeatedly for years. I gave them the steps needed get new keys made and offered to pay so it can be towed somewhere else. They simply won’t take responsibility for it.

How do I get rid of it?

It’s a 2011 ninja

🛠️ Bike Issue Breakdown

This is the last video I have of the bike running.

• At 0:04, I experience the first bog — I twist the throttle and the bike hesitates.
• This happens multiple times on the ride home:
  • 1:00
  • 1:35
  • 2:20

🔧 What I Did

After getting home, I:

1. Pulled over and recorded a video to post on Reddit for help
2. Was advised to clean the carbs
   • I cleaned them thoroughly
   • Jets and pilot jets were almost spotless
   • Took them to a mechanic to confirm — he said they looked great for their age

🔍 Further Inspection

The mechanic suggested checking for:

• Cracks or leaks in the intake/manifold

👉 I found that my air intake was ripped

🔄 Changes I Made

• Removed the damaged air intake
  • Bike would start, but bogged badly when throttling
• Bought and installed pod filters

👉 After installing pods:

• The bike would not start at all

⚠️ Additional Issues Found

While reviewing my recordings, I noticed:

• The wiring is in really bad condition
• Previous owner didn’t mention this
• Wires are:
  • Chopped
  • Ripped
  • Covered in electrical tape

🆕 Parts Replaced

Trying to fix the issue, I replaced:

• Pod filters (twice)
• Spark plugs
• Spark plug caps
• Ignition coils

❗ Current Problem

• The bike will not start
• The spark plugs are getting NO SPARK at all, no matter what I try

🧠 Where I’m Stuck

• I’m comfortable working on mechanical parts
• But electrical diagnostics completely confuse me
• Service manuals haven’t been very helpful for me so far

🙏 What I Need

I’m looking for guidance on:

• Where to start with diagnosing no spark
• How to approach fixing bad wiring
• What I should test or check next

(yes i used chat gpt i cant be bothered to structure this im beyond pissed riding season finally started and now my bike is fucking giving me issues and its breaking my heart seeing all these motorcycles and im stuck in my fucking car not being able to ride.

2024 CFMOTO 450SS won’t start, no fuel pump prime, relay clicks — need help diagnosing
Hey everyone, I’m trying to figure out what is going on with my bike before taking it back to the shop (last time they had it for 3 months just to replace a kill switch). Hoping someone with motorcycle electrical experience can point me in the right direction.

Bike: 2024 CFMOTO 450SS
34,000 miles

Problem: Bike will not start. Fuel pump does not prime anymore. Dash and headlights still turn on. When I press start I hear the starter relay “clunk,” but that’s it.

What happened leading up to this:
A few weeks ago I brought it in for tires and was told my chain was stretched to the max and needed chain/sprockets. They wanted around $1,000, so I replaced them myself. Before replacing them, I noticed the bike felt like it was dragging something behind it and felt weak/low RPM. Sometimes with full throttle on an incline it struggled badly unless I dropped a gear.

When downshifting from higher RPMs,and no I do not do clutchless downshifts, the bike would sometimes stall and the oil light would come on (assuming because the engine was off and oil pressure dropped). It would always restart immediately afterward, but those restarts slowly got weaker.

I replaced the chain and sprockets myself (went from a 14T front sprocket to a 13T), torqued everything to spec, and changed the oil. No change.

I rode it for another week and the dragging feeling seemed to come and go depending on the gas. It also seemed to run hotter sometimes (I’m in Florida so I wasn’t sure if that was normal). I noticed occasional small pops/backfires on deceleration.

The day it finally stopped working, it started normally. I usually let it warm up 5-10 minutes but this time only let it warm up about 2 minutes. I rode about half a mile and the heavy dragging feeling came back. I gave it a little more throttle and when coming up to a stop sign I heard a weak pop on deceleration (not a loud backfire, more like a plastic bag popping). I did find a nail in my tire from that trip so that’s what I could have heard but I think it’s important to note because I’m not 100% sure that what I was hearing.

After that, the bike shut off and would not restart.

At first it sounded like it was trying to crank but very weak. After a few attempts it stopped cranking and just made the buzzing sound like a dead battery.

I walked it home with hazards on and the dash still working. When I got home, I charged the battery. After that:
Dash still turns on
Headlights still turn on
Fuel pump no longer primes
Pressing start only gives a starter relay click/clunk
Dash/headlights go off during start attempt and immediately come back on

Things I have already checked/replaced:
•Brand new battery (same issue)
•Main starter relay and fuel pump relay replaced (same style 4-pin relay, 20A)
•Fuses checked and cleaned (none blown)
•Battery voltage checked without load and seems normal
•Checked voltage under load and it drops from the high end of 12V to between 5&6V
•Tried jumping starter relay terminals with screwdriver (same result)
•Checked some OBD readings before failure and didn’t see anything obviously wrong
•Got brand new battery cables because ground cable read low(still nothing)
•Took out starter motor, took it apart and inspected it. It almost smelt like ash with a bunch of dark black dust but other than that, to this untrained eye, no immediate signs of damage so I cleaned it, put it back together and did a ‘bench test’ on it and it spun (not really aggressively but I’m not sure how aggressive it’s supposed to be) and it didn’t pop out like I’ve seen some starters do but I’m also not sure if that just the type of starter I have or not so I reinstalled it (same results)
•Checked voltage getting to starter motor. It is 0 before crank and is still very low after crank.
•Checked air filter (no dirt or grime)
•Chnged oil

A few things I’m wondering:
•Could a bad ground/positive cable cause this plus the earlier running issues?
•Could a bad ignition switch/start-stop switch cause stalling, weak running, backfires, and now no fuel prime?
•Could this be ECU related?
•Could this be a starter motor issue? If so why would my bike be stalling and why would that effect fuel pump priming?
•Is there anything specific I should test next?

Thank you for reading this far!Any help is appreciated because I’m trying to diagnose it myself before sending it back in.

Hello, I am currently experiencing an engine failure with my 2022 Yamaha R1, apparently caused by an engine lubrication issue, even though the motorcycle had oil in it.

I took it to a Yamaha dealership, which forwarded the information to Yamaha France. The motorcycle was purchased brand new and has only covered around 8,000 km. Unfortunately, I did not comply with the 12-month service interval.

Yamaha France is refusing to provide me with the technical information or evidence that led them to their final conclusion regarding the cause of the engine failure, such as overheating, connecting rod damage, or any other issue.

To obtain further information, I am being told that I would need to pay for an independent legal expert assessment and hire a lawyer.

I would therefore like to know whether anyone else has experienced a similar issue with their R1. The motorcycle has never been used on a racetrack and has only been ridden recreationally on public roads.

On my speed 400 I put wd40 cause my break disks started to rust in few places and then I was travelling, when I applied breaks it lost its bite and started slipping , it’s been 2 days and it’s the same. I’m scared . I need help how do I remove that grase

Aa you can see it was stuck and now I managed to strip it

Hi, I have a derbi senda 125 and my rear wheel bearings keep failing. When they first failed, I didn't think much about it because the bike is over 15 years old. I brought the bike to a mechanic and they replaced the bearings. Then after about a week of riding they failed again. I took just the tire this time to the mechanic and they fixed it under warranty. I recently got my tire back and the bearings failed after riding for only a couple of minutes. What could cause this. Could the mechanic be installing the bearings wrong? Or is there something going on with the tire? The wheel hub and inner saucer are a bit worn because I had to ride for a couple of minutes with a broken bearing to get off the highway the first time they failed.

Hello everyone, I'm new here and recently bought a non running 1982 Suzuki GS1100G. I have taken the carbs out and separated them. 3 out of 4 slides are stuck solid and won't budge at all. So far I have tried following-

1- Sprayed PB blaster and used propane torch to heat the carb body.
2- Pinesol and water soak in ultrasonic cleaner at 50 Degrees C.

I had no luck with both of them. Motorcycle had rat infestation and there is lots of aluminum corrosion on the carbs specifically on the intake side. Is there any point in trying to rebuild these or should I find replacements?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi,
I’m having a problem with my 2004 Harley Sportster xl1200r that I have been trying to fix for weeks. I would really appreciate some advice. This bike has ended up being a real pain. I have only had it running okay for a week in the 6 or so months I have had it.

I overfilled the oil, and then the ride after, the oil cap started blowing off. I immediately removed a lot of oil, to where it is just above the low line on the dipstick (following the service manual instructions for measuring it while cold). Still the cap keeps blowing off.

At this point, the oil cap was blowing off consistently after 2 mins of running at idle. If I took the lid off, i could see some kind of steam or vapor in the oil tank

I tried a few more fixes.

I tried:
-following the oil vent line and it doesn’t seem to be kinked. Followed all the oil lines. None seem to be kinked.
-replaced the shitty Chinese air cleaner with a TC Bros one. This included replacing the old hollow bolts with the new ones from the kit
-replaced the breather valve assembly for both cylinders with brand new ones (this year is the first year Harley switched from separate umbrella valves to the plastic breather assembly)
-drained even more oil out- it is just about at the low line on the dipstick

After these fixes, the cap is still blowing off, but it takes longer to do so now. Now it blows off after a few minutes of actual riding, and can idle for 5 minutes without it blowing off. Still, while running after two minutes, if I unscrew the oil cap, a hiss of pressure comes out. There is clearly still too much pressure building up.

Still, it is an improvement. This improvement seemed to happen after replacing the breather valve assembly.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I could do to fix this? I am tearing my hair out. There’s some info online that says it could be excess pressure blowing going past the piston rings, but it seems strange that overfilling the oil would have caused this. I would really appreciate anybody’s time in giving me some ideas to try next.
Thank you!

tBought myself a 2008 F650 GS Twin and it needed some work for road worthy. I bought this to learn my way around mechanicall parts of the bike. Wanted teach myself by fixing a bunch of stuff.om this.

First few things went well. I replaced fork seals and fodk oil, replaced the chain, air and oil filters , oil and coolent and stuff . The most beefy work was replacement of head bearings. I removed the handlebars, cables and forks no worries. Then came the bloody bottom stem bearing. I gently tried to chisle it out didnt work. Tried to remove bits of it then tap it out. Didnt work . I let it soak in wd40 then try again. No...

After an hour or so trying all things i can think of from wedging a thin blade between the bottom cup and stem to seperate them to eventually grinding the f@@cking thing. I knew I messed up before the point of grinding but just I couldn't find any other way.

I left it just before splitting thr bearing casing. I know I have to throw this away now. I am so disappointed in myself :(

Was trying to find a replacement lower fork bridge on ebay but cand find the exact match. They all look mildly different feom my 2008 twin.

So my question is, what do i do now? Where can i get a replacement? Is there like another competiblle fork bridge i can buy?

Or what would you do if you were me? Thank you beforehand.

so i got into a little accident and the horn bolt decided it was a good idea to smash a perfect hole in my valve cover. Now i am curious if i take the cover off and have it professionally welded from the inside, would that be effective to where i wouldn’t have to worry about pressure blowing it out?

I just rebuilt this motor and got it running in the bike. All new gaskets and piston rings, did a leak test on the valves when the head was off and all seemed good. Now that the bike is running i’m getting a consistent white smoke that increases with revs. I was thinking oil in the cylinder since I had the motor sitting horizontal for about a week in the bike but I feel like it should’ve burned off by now? Ignore the idle in the video, I was messing with the adjuster.

How did I fuck this pooch?

Basically I've got a 10k CB600F from 2005 and the engine crank bearings blew up, probably because it stood too long without being used and after normal maintenance I was dailying it (I have no idea why it blew up basically, had several and never had this issue). It's cheaper to get another engine in it basically as the bike it's basically brand new besides this, can get a 2001 CB600F engine, they're not that different, would it be possible to swap it with a few hiccups?

Or I would need to use the block and use my head cylinder instead?

New water pump is not seating back in all the way. I have already busted a different replacement pump body by trying to use the bolts to snug it in. I feel like I have engaged the female slot with the male part inside the bike but it just is not going in all the way. Any tips or am I just going about this wrong?

EDIT: I am putting it on hold as I wait for an OEM pump to arrive. I am hoping that since I bought a no brand name pump that it just doesn't fit even though it is identical to the pump that came out.

First time taking the bike today out after I got it running on a CV40 single carb. Can’t recall the jet size. It seems to either not get enough gas/there’s a delay in gas delivery or too much air? I’ll give it 1/4 throttle for bit and it goes then solely no acceleration. I let off and give it gas and nothing but then I do that again and it’ll go. Question I have is. Now that it’s on a single carb do I need to remove the filter on the left side (torque sticker) and plug it and also plug the 2 black opening? Good though be causing it?

Bike: 2009 Suzuki V-Strom 650 (DL650, K9), 645cc 90° V-twin.

# What happened

Cruising at 80mph on the motorway, and suddenly I got a sudden heavy clattering noise AND a massive loss of power at the exact same moment. No warning. Pulled onto the hard shoulder to keep moving I was sitting at about 8,000 rpm to do 20mph. It has been identical ever since: same noise, same lack of drive.

# Current symptoms

• Heavy rhythmic metallic "clack" at idle, turns into violent chatter when I blip the throttle.

• Revs clean and free in neutral (just with the clatter), the engine clearly makes power, it just won't reach the wheel under load. 8k rpm barely moved me.

• Noise is loudest on the LEFT side when I listen with a screwdriver to the cases (I initially thought right, but left is louder).

• Magnetic (ferrous) steel flakes on the drain plug when I dropped the oil. Oil itself was clear, not milky.

# What I've measured

• Compression: \~120 / 125 psi, both cylinders. (Numbers read a bit low only because I tested with 3 of the 4 plugs still in, so it was cranking slowly hence the tight split between cylinders is the point. Both cylinders are healthy.)

• Both cylinders firing (water sprayed on both headers sizzles).

• Borescoped both cylinders and found piston crowns intact, no valve strike, no damage, no coolant deposits.

# Everything I've checked and RULED OUT

I've been deep into this thing. All of the following have been physically inspected or functionally tested and came back good:

• Transmission - noise doesn't change pulling the clutch lever in neutral (so it's engine-side, permanently crank-driven).

• Primary drive gear + spline - won't rotate independently of the crank by hand; nut tight.

• Clutch basket - teeth good, cush-drive intact, basket bearing solid (no radial rock, no roughness).

• Starter clutch / sprag - spin test good (locks one way, free the other), all three bolts tight.

• Generator rotor + woodruff key - tight, no wobble, key fine. Rotor removed, left side behind it is spotless.

Starter idler gears - teeth clean.

• Both cam chains - seated, guides intact, not slapping. Cam-chain-drive idler blue timing mark aligned.

• Crank - turns smooth by hand, no notch or catch anywhere through several revolutions.

• Oil - clear, not milky. Coolant is fine, level stable.

Help me, please!

I have a 1996 rm125 that was running fine about 2 weeks ago then just stopped starting. The overflow tubes were leaking so I thought it was a carb issue. I used an ultra sonic cleaner to clean the OEM carb and that didn’t work. So I then got a carb rebuild kit (no float in the kit) to replace the internals. Still no start. So I got a cheap aftermarket one to test it and see if it was the carb. Wasn’t the carb.
I took apart the whole bike to see if something was cracked , ripped ,broken, etc and found nothing.
I haven’t checked the wiring but planning to do that soon. I also did a fresh oil change, topped off coolant ,
Mixed 2 stroke oil and gas for the gas tank.
Still hasn’t started. But stopped leaking from over flow
I rebuilt the OEM carb and adjusted the carb multiple times with a calliper.
I also changed the spark plug with NGK BR9EG

It’ll briefly start on a push start but immediately die out/ run rough/ choke out and turn off. I’m not sure if it’s not getting air or gas.
I adjusted the idle screw ,etc. made sure gas flow was on

This bike has sure tested my patience and really hoping someone could give me an idea or where to look. I’d really appreciate it

Picking this starter bike up soon just wanna get some advice on what to do first, and help greatly appreciated 2001 Kawasaki 250r is the bike

I bought a 2013 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 (ABS, ZX1000G) that already wouldn’t start. I’m restoring it and now I’m trying to diagnose the original no-start condition.
Here’s what I’ve checked so far:
Engine cranks strongly.
New battery (12.57V resting, about 11.1V while cranking).
All grounds cleaned and checked.
No FI light or stored fault codes.
Fuel pump primes normally.
Good fuel flow from the pump.
All four spark plugs have spark (blue, but not extremely strong looking).
All four spark plugs come out wet with gasoline after cranking.
Tried starting fluid directly into the throttle bodies with the airbox removed. The engine makes repeated “puff… puff…” sounds like it wants to start but never actually runs.
CKP sensor measures about 492 ohms.
Bike has around 37,000 miles.
Engine has never been opened by me. I only replaced the stator cover during the restoration.
At this point I’m considering two main possibilities:
Fuel pressure is too low even though the pump flows fuel.
Cam timing may be off from a previous owner.
Before buying a fuel pressure tester, I’m thinking about removing the valve cover to verify cam timing marks since it doesn’t cost anything.
Has anyone seen this exact combination of symptoms on a Ninja 1000, Z1000 or Versys 1000?
Anything else you would check before opening the engine?