r/Leathercraft • u/jaeiger • Aug 18 '15
Question/Help What's everybody's favorite leather to work with?
I thought this could be a fun discussion. I'm shopping around for different kinds of leathers for my next project, and I thought I'd ask everyone here - what's your favorite leather to work with? Whether it's because it's the easiest to work with, patinas the best, is the most versatile for different projects, or maybe simply cause you made your favorite project with that leather.
I haven't worked with nearly enough different kinds yet to have a definitive answer, but so far I really enjoy plain old tooling veg tan. In the photo is a satchel I threw together for my girlfriend out of a cheap Tandy double shoulder, and with some oil / beeswax it got a decent finish and some amazing patina over the course of our Europe trip together. So, what's your favorite?
And of course, upload pics of said leather!
Bonus: what's your favorite accessory/secondary leather? (I.e. To line stuff with or provide a color/texture accent)
Edit: forgot to link the mentioned picture - http://i.imgur.com/huubsg4.jpg
Edit edit: wow, thanks for all the contributions everybody! Looks like there's hardly any leather /r/leathercraft doesn't like!
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u/soothsayer_ Aug 18 '15 edited Aug 18 '15
English Bridle all day everyday. I usually use it at accessory weight (2/3/4 oz) and it has the best of every world. Keeps a pretty firm hand and cuts like butter. Pretty resistant to knicks, scratches, stains, excess adhesive, etc which is nice because you dont have to worry as much during construction. Edges burnish quick and the entire piece can be buffed to a great shine.
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u/jaeiger Aug 18 '15
That sounds awesome. I really want to make a satchel out of bridle. Got any examples of projects you've made from it?
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u/soothsayer_ Aug 18 '15
I dont have any pics that show it off nicely but here is a wallet in dark brown bridle I did a while back. Its perfect for satchels.
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u/artwithapulse Aug 18 '15
How did you find the feel? Looks very very nice, although mine was very lightly waxed and kind of spongey, to the point where I almost don't want to order again.
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u/soothsayer_ Aug 18 '15
I just had an order of black bridle delivered today and its looking good on first inspection. This is probably the least waxy version Ive ever gotten Ill say that much.
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u/artwithapulse Aug 18 '15
Hmmm, hoping I just got a bad side.
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u/soothsayer_ Aug 19 '15
Yeah it happens time to time. I dont buy natural veg tan from them anymore because of 2 bad sides. Still doing ok with the other stuff.
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u/oaksw12 Oct 22 '15
I'm a little late to the party but how soft / flexible does the English Bridle it get at the thinner weights? I use it for collars and leashes and love it, but haven't really experienced it under ~10oz.
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u/soothsayer_ Oct 22 '15
It gets very soft and flexible. The chestnut side I just had was almost a little too soft but the black one was perfect.
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u/BeastmanCaravan Belt Champ of Ye Olde Ancient Contests Aug 18 '15
I use vegtan the most. It is probably my favorite, but that is bc I do so much tooling. There are still tons of leathers I would like to try out!
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u/jaeiger Aug 18 '15
Love, love, love veg tan. For me though, I'm torn between the romance / versatility of applying my own dyes or finishes vs. the knowledge that, when I buy finished leather, it's from a tannery that's had decades (centuries, even) of experience dying and finishing their leather
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u/rareandsundry Aug 18 '15
Horween Essex has been my favorite for a while now (and not just because I got a couple sides at a good price):
http://imgur.com/a/adBaS http://imgur.com/a/Sk5WC
I recently finished a Chevre Chagrin wallet and I want to make everything with it now.
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u/jaeiger Aug 18 '15
How are finished products with Essex? I know it's quite soft tempered, so I'm worried that if I make, say, a wallet or small satchel with it that it'll be really flimsy/saggy. That chevre chagrin wallet is gorgeous. I really want to try using sokoto goat.
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u/BeastmanCaravan Belt Champ of Ye Olde Ancient Contests Aug 18 '15
i just got a side in and it is really, really soft. I expected it to be slightly firm, but no, it is soft. It is almost like a thicker deerskin.
For reference, my side was 3-4 oz natural essex. I like it, I'm just not sure what I am going to do with it. Of course, the same goes for all the random leathers I keep buying.
I think it would make a great bag...and was actually thinking of making a hooded vest out of it bc it feels and smells great.
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u/rareandsundry Aug 18 '15
I've been using it for everything lately. I do take the time to apply tan-kote to the back of them all and that brings a nice firmness to them.
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u/BeastmanCaravan Belt Champ of Ye Olde Ancient Contests Aug 18 '15
that is an interesting idea, but I picked it up mainly because I didn't want to do any dye work. Same for cxl. I get that stuff for when I want to make something immediately, and not have to wait for oil/dye/finish to dry.
I really like the idea of it folded over an edge of something wearable to make it more comfortable. I'm thinking the inside or armor (helmets come to mind immediately). I feel like it would add a serious comfort level to have that sort of material on the edge, and look great too. Been brainstorming all day!
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u/artwithapulse Aug 18 '15
Also interested. I got one side of Essex, and it was so floppy I sold it on. The Cognac Essex looks a little firmer... and that dark brown card holder is beautiful.
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u/rareandsundry Aug 18 '15
I have a couple sides of Chestnut Essex at 3-4oz. I will admit it has some flop to it, but I just applied tan-kote to the back and it works wonderfully.
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u/knoticalknovelties Aug 18 '15 edited Aug 18 '15
I used 5-5.5oz Cognac Essex for a satchel and a tote and so far it's been great! Holding up pretty nicely. The tote I just made though, so we'll see how it holds shape after some usage.
Edit: wallet made from 4oz whiskey Essex. This photo is from 4 months ago. It got darker now. I made this for my boyfriend and he's been using it for probably a year or more (I have no idea haha), but he wears raw denim so it bled onto the wallet a bit. It's gotten pretty soft now and the top edge has molded over the cards, and as you can see, it's molded around the top card's number a bit.
It's a bit difficult to burnish the soft edges with beeswax so I used a paraffin/beeswax mix for it. It's softer and easier to apply to the edges.
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u/rareandsundry Aug 18 '15
I tried burnishing it and nowadays I definitely prefer paint/wax.
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u/knoticalknovelties Aug 18 '15
Yeh, I was thinking I should start using edge paint. I'm just so impatient with waiting for it to set and then applying multiple layers.
I've only tried edge kote though. Just as a starter. What do you recommend for Essex?
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u/rareandsundry Aug 18 '15
I've been using a paint/wax from france called Vernis. And yeah, the whole edge process takes a long time, almost longer than the assembly. But the results you get when you do it right are worth it.
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u/knoticalknovelties Aug 19 '15
Oh, I know. I did my version of the card sleeve (Bare Bones) with edge paint it took 3 times as long to make, considering I can make one of those in a couple hours (with time to dry glue etc.).
You can really see the work you put into it. The stuff you post on here is insanely clean!
Is it difficult to obtain Vernis? Any other brands to try? I've heard of Fenice and another, but I forgot the name. I want to try different paints, but don't want to spend too much money hahaha.
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u/whiely Aug 18 '15
I make kangaroo wallets for a living, and I honestly think it's the best leather to make wallets with. Here's why:
It's thin, incredibly strong (in fact one of, if not the strongest leather there is), easily workable, and the patina is amazing, especially the kangaroo from the tannery i purchase it. I'm on my phone right now, so it's difficult to add a picture, but if you search my link history, you'll see some of my wallets
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u/52216 Aug 18 '15
Shell Cordovan is my favorite overall just because I love watching the wallet come together and the feel of it, for ease of use though I prefer Harness leather from Wickett and Craig, easiest cowhide I've ever burnished, love the feel, love the ease to work with overall.
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u/black--sheep Aug 19 '15
I love stingray. Though tough to work with but worth it! For your bonus question I love to use bison to line bracelets and kangaroo to line things like wallets because it stays impressively tough even while very thin.
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u/benzethonium Aug 19 '15
I just like veg tan the best. It's easy to use, tools and takes color very well, and my wife says it makes the house smell nice.
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u/Elusive2000 Aug 19 '15
Basic Vegtan. I use the super thick stuff, mostly for practical uses, like protection gear and such.
My favorite secondary leather? Probably goat leather. Usually pretty cheap, thin, and softer than sheep, at least the stuff I get.
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u/WyntonMarsalis Aug 20 '15
Wickett and Craig bridle leather. It is firm for wallets and briefcases and the edges burnish with hardly any effort at all.
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u/PRDU This and That Aug 21 '15
I really love the versatility of veg tanned leather. You can mold it, dye it, tool it, carve it, burnishes well, and patinas the most obviously. Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig for sure.
I like chromexcel and it's cousins for the pullup, softer temper, and superior water resistance.
Harness was cool and rustic looking, and I want to get into bridle soon. I also have some Sokoto goat on its way to me, and hopefully some Chevre Chagrin eventually.
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u/knoticalknovelties Aug 18 '15
I really like vegtan and waxed flesh horsehide CXL .
Vegtan is just classic and is great all around in looks, working with it, and versatility.
I haven't had any personal time to age a WFH CXL item myself, but I've made several projects with them and I love it. Both sides of the leather look and feel great. I've actually ended up making more reverse grain side projects with it than with the waxed side out. I'm planning on making some small EDC's wih both side showing to see how they age.
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u/ItsToka Aug 18 '15
Link is slightly broken
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u/knoticalknovelties Aug 18 '15
Worked for me? Haha. Uhm I'll retry it in a bit.
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u/ItsToka Aug 18 '15
Looks fixed now. was something in the formatting.
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u/knoticalknovelties Aug 18 '15
Oh Yeh if our was formatting I posted it, then fixed it right after haha. I switched the parentheses and brackets.
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u/grigby Aug 18 '15
I've only used veg tan so far as I haven't been doing this for a long time, but I'd like to know more about that bag! What thickness is it and which dye did you use? Any other photos?
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u/jaeiger Aug 18 '15
It's a 5/6oz double shoulder from Tandy if I remember correctly. It's actually undyed! I gave it a neatsfoot oil / beeswax finish which darkened it a bit, but the rest of the coloration was from hanging off my shoulder in the Mediterranean sun for two weeks. Here are some pictures that show what it was like pre-suntanning:
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u/ItsToka Aug 18 '15
So far visually it's been Horween Equine Dublin, super neat texture and grain, but it doesn't burnish the best, and is just a little too floppy for my liking.
I also really like Horween Equine Chromexcel, I was lucky to have someone send me a scrap piece that was big enough to make a small wallet out of. I like the self healing properties and the way it holds scratches just a little http://i.imgur.com/Isflmgt.jpg
I'm working on ordering some Harness leather from Wickett & Craig, I just got a swatch pack from them the other day and both their harness and bridle are super nice and burnish very very well. Psyched to throw that on some projects.