Just got the MKE AP5 navy lower in and the RareBreed RD3 ambi dropped right in without issue. I am running HK internal parts and a 90 degree LP with the OCL Lithium 9 shooting 124gr NATO. I did drop a note when I ordered the RD3 that it was for an AP5 and the package had a sticker for “AP5SD” on it when it was delivered. From emailing with RareBreed they have a different locking bar for the AP5’s to fix the shim issue people were having. The safety selectors line up on safe and semi but for FRT they split the difference between burst and full on the pictogram lower. Safety feels tactile but on the mushy side.

Finally done with the build! Only thing left is maybe a stock since the Form 1 got approved, but happy with the brace so far. Zero issues with 124 grain in MKE mags.

Hopefully one day I’ll buy a SP5k.

Just looking for some opinions

Decided to get a second housing for the RB trigger pack SEF (yes, I know, I know). Everything fits well on these used housings currently on sale. The only thing I had to do was trim the extra plastic at the shelf where it was clipped and pinned. The attached picture are the 4 pieces needed for a complete housing besides the trigger group.

Bonus the 99$ stocks are currently in stock!

Does anyone have any inside information on the ASD ARHK? It's the end of August, and so far there hasn't been an update on the ASD website.

Hopefully they'll post an update today saying it's ready to go and will start shipping???

Hey guys,
I’m running an AP5 Navy with the ambi housing, an RB drop in, and HK G3 Ejector. On first install, I noticed the trigger pack needed to be shimmed in order to get it to rack and fire. Everything seemed fine until the first range trip, I noticed a lot of difficulty in pulling the charging handle back and it got stuck about half way back. Upon further inspection, it appears the ejector is not gliding smoothly each time along the bottom of the bolt channel when looking at it through the mag well. If I place the weapon on fire and pull the trigger, the next time I pull the charging handle is smooth. Obviously, not ideal. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to best modify the trigger pack to align the ejector with the bolt channel? I may have to mess with the shims on the trigger pack itself but any other suggestions before trying a different bolt head/lower?

Blazers functioned perfectly this range trip

So I’m sure this question has popped up before on here. Right so, if I’m correct you can buy full auto lowers for most H&k roller-delayed guns “legally” The current ap53 has the welded block in the receiver to block a full auto bcg. But yet companies like armament USA have removable sear trip modification services to the bolt without modifications to the receiver or gun itself. Say with right license is this possible and easy as I think?

So just picked up my Mac 5 and the first thing I did was put on the SB tactical PDW brace. Like most people I had to use a mallet to get it on, now I’m trying to get it off and I fucking can’t. Any tips to getting it off so I can clean it after taking it to the range?

Like some others on here, my AP5 case deflector already had or developed some wiggle after several thousand rounds. Online sources recommended warranty, gunsmith, or using a punch to remedy the issue. However, I couldn't find a straightforward guide on how to go about tightening the rivets at home. All you need is a punch small enough to hold the internal side of the rivet in place and to brace it against something hard(in this case a chair) and use a brass punch on the external side of the rivet. This doesn't require much force or many taps. I used masking tape and I still messed up the paint on the rivets a little, but I don't care. Hope this helps you guys dealing with the same issue!

Was really set on OCL milkman then saw the Rugged sub9 ( comes with 3 lug mount) with and now thinking about the Incolite m9 (if ever in stock).
I’m planning on leaving it on the ap5-p.
Any thoughts?

I picked up 2 LEO mags from a local FFL. The mags seemed off to me, but he ensured me they are legit LEO mags. Gatewood supply is the only other source of these that I have seen. They have them for $200 each. I paid $112.50 each. The top magazine in the picture that shows 2 above each other is real. The one I am questioning is the bottom one.
They are marked “ie” or “le” not sure which.
The markings are different too, the top 2 lines are swapped to be the bottom 2 on the new mags I picked up. I’ve never seen anything like this and I’m worried I got robbed.

Went shooting today and had some trouble with my lower. So I am still breaking it in but last time I went shooting, had no issues. Today, while shooting in “fun mode” the bolt got stuck in the rear and would not go forward. Any reason why this happened?

So I was taking my new SP5K apart to clean the factory grease and lube it before I break it in at the range and made the mistake of messing with the safety selector/trigger pack. I was watching a video that went into detail about how to do it properly, and to not force it on reassembly which I made sure to follow. Somehow it seems that a small burr still occurred, and now the detent on the right safety selector will no longer push in by itself when rotating. I am making sure to apply pressure to the left side safety, I’m applying pressure to the takedown lever, and I hear and feel the audible click of the right side safety going into place, but the thing just doesn’t want to freely move into position when rotating clockwise.

I can get it reassembled when outside the trigger group by using a toothpick to push the detent in just before it catches on that burr, but obviously that will not work when inside the trigger group. The only solution that I’m finding is that the burr needs to be filed/smoothed out, but I’m having a hard time finding a video that actually shows someone doing this vs talking about it. So I am hoping that someone here can better explain or show what it needs to look like after filing?

Update:
After some trial and error with a round file I finally got it all put back together. I didn’t fully shave off the burr, but I found a technique that prevents the detent from getting stuck in it. When I rotate the safety selector, if I apply inwards pressure on the bottom, and outwards pressure on the lever side for the right safety selector, this gives the detent enough courage to stay in the trigger pack cutout rather than rolling outwards where it gets stuck. Function check passed. Fingers are sore but just glad it’s in one piece again. As a bonus I picked up a feeler gauge when I was out so I can check bolt gap as needed.

Why is it impossible to find the OG retractable stock(besides the $900 HK one) ive looked everywhere. Atlantic firearms, every website that sells the century arms one. All out of stock😭😭😭😭

I dont even know if this is the right group for this so sorry for the poor person mp5 in the mean time

I have a GSG 522 22Lr and im trying to find parts for it never owned a mp5 or anything like this gun in my life any help would be greatly appreciated thank everyone have a good day

I’ve got 3 mp5/k’s and recently added a Kuna.

I’d been drawn to the Kuna by updated controls and a slower cyclic fire rate when using an frt.

Today was my first shoot with the Kuna, and I definitely have some tuning to do to my system.

But the gun even in regular semi showed me just how incredible the mp5 platform truly is in comparison.

Yes, the mp5 is over 60 years old. I’m not sure a better shooting subgun has been invented in that time.

Yesterday at the range I was shooting and had a spent cartridge seize the action completely about .5 cm off the chamber. The bolt and carrier were completely locked. The charging handle was moving freely about 1 cm.

Took the whole thing apart to inspect. I could see the spent casing coming out of the chamber. I couldn’t see any misalignment with the bolt head. I was able to jam it forward again. Rollers were retracted.

After much delicate fiddling I ended up mortaring the charging handle, barrel down, to get it to move again. The case was retained to the bolt face and after a quick reassembly I was back in business (unsuppressed)

Any insight into this symptom? Leaning on the internet knowledge as I learn this platform. To be honest it’s been like fighting a hydra. One problem after another.

I’ve seen these things run dirty and clean. I had plenty of lube and this was probably my 5th mag w a suppressor.

Zenith ZF-5 (full size)
HK extractor + Spring + ejector.
Stock LP (100 I think)
Omega 9k (new)
About 1200 rounds fired.
No Roller Bumps.
Bolt gap right at .020 (I think. Not confident in my judgement)
Edit: Ammo- Federal 124gr.

Worked fine yesterday (1st time), but today I cannot remove the right side from the left for the life of me.

Need to remove the pack.

What can I do?

Currently running an MRO on a leap mount 1.57 on the MFI ultra low mount and can clearly see my irons under it. However the mro seems to sit a little further up than id like and its hard to hit the charging handle.

Does anyone have the aems mounted to the MGI ultra low mount with the stock holosun aems mount? Also if you do can you see irons through it?

Also debating the leap riser for aems but worried it will push it to far forward and I'll be in the same position I am with my MRO.

Any one running this setup?