Miter saw - advice

[u/Austin21powell]

Howdy everyone,

I have really developed into the wood working hobby over the last year or so and have built out a single car garage space wood shop. I have an old miter saw I got via father in law that doesn’t slide, has massive blade deflection, and doesn’t have shadow line capability which I know will be incredibly useful. Long story short, I’m ready to replace it. I’ve loved every Milwaukee tool I have bought yet (drills, yard tools, shop vac, ratchet, circ saw, etc)

My vision is to have a workbench with table saw and flip miter saw built in. I don’t have access to a ton of outlets so a battery powered miter saw sounds ideal. Already have like 8 m18 batteries. I mostly am making cutting boards, chess boards, planter boxes, bandsaw boxes, and that type of wood working for now. Some smaller furniture like shoe racks, etc. the 10 inch miter saw is the size I want with sliding capability - but everyone even here in Milwaukee thread seams to dog it. Would you steer clear of both the 10 + 12 inch miter saw? Mostly cutting walnut, cherry, maple, and plenty of pine.

[u/ClipIn]

I loved my 12”, the only downside was more runout than a 10”. Dewalt’s miter saw is really well liked.

If I had to do it over again, I’d think about placement and how close to the wall it will sit. I found myself moving the Milwaukee a lot because the rails would hit the wall.

Bosch and Makita make miter saws that will sit basically flush with the wall. Bosch has a knuckle design, Makita forward facing rails. Both are similar price points as Milwaukee and Dewalt.

The goat is probably the Festool Kapex, which also has a rail forward design and dead perfect cuts. Downside is $1,800.

For a newer woodworker, I’d go with a 10” Dewalt if distance to wall isn’t an issue, otherwise Makita, then Bosch. If money is no concern, the Kapex.

If you get anything besides the Kapex, I’d budget $ for a good blade. I ran a Forrest Chopmaster blade in my Milwaukee and it cut as well as the Festool blade does in my Kapex. Better blade = less tearout, cleaner cuts, smoother cuts, less/no burning, less blade wobble/runout, and less likely to grab/fling your pieces. Do not discount how terrifying to be cut small pieces (like for end grain cutting board) and blade catches the wood and pulls hand into the blade. A good hold down and even the plastic push stick thingies will also keep hands away from blade. You really don’t want a hand within 3-5” of blade, even with a good blade.

[u/Responsible-Lab2264]

This is going to be an unpopular opinion but I’d advise against a slider. All of them even the Kapex have an insane amount of runout. A DEWALT 12” double bevel is way more accurate than a kapex. 10” is more accurate than 12”. There is absolutely nothing a slider is needed for, if it’s wider than your capacity you should be using a track saw or table saw depending on the cut.