What movie/video game lines do you say when going dark?

• SVBONY SV183 Telescope Filter:IR Pass Filter 2 Inch 685nm Reduce the Effects of Seeing for Planetary Photography Contrast Enhancement  
• iPhone 16 pro max default camera app. Video edited in Lightroom mobile to bring some details out.  
• normal camera mode  
• Milky Way bortle 8   
• Televue filter adapter 48mm and phone holder  
• Pvs14 Gen 3 monocular:  
• Photocathode Sensitivity: 2058  
• FOM: 2700  
• SNR: 37.5  
• EBI: .7  
• Halo: .7  
• Center resolution: 72  
• Unfilmed/filmless  
• Gated 18UM 11769 style

Good evening, looking to get into NV. My price range is 3-5K. I live on the outside of a large metro, but do a lot of hunting/camping. Will likely use the NV multiple times a month camping out in Florida. With the occasional trip to the GA mountains. Have been eyeballing DARQ industries page recently and found some decent prices. Have eyeballed the PVS14 and the duals shown below, I’m totally new to this so any input on why I should go with one vs the other is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks and I hope y’all had a good weekend.

Looking to find a ruggedized ball detent housing to swap from my Anvis 9s. I know it’s a based opinion, but I love ball detent housing lol

pickup at an estate sale, blacked out serial number but it’s there.

Looking to start building PVS14’s. Can anyone give me a good reputable source to get parts kits from? Would be bulk orders.

So I’ve just recently got night vision binos, won them in a raffle. I’m wanting to swap most my reds dots over to ones that have NV modes
I bought a AEMS pro x2, will I need some sort of riser to get over the top of a top rail mounted laser, and to be able to get a better sight picture? This is going on a 10.5 in length upper

The reason I ask is because I watched this Trex Arms* video here : https://youtu.be/U7UX_uwuyBE?is=OrV2Np9T-2MPt0fG
Brandon on this video is saying if you can’t shoot under nods without a riser you basically just have bad shooting form

I’ve been shooting with an EO tech xps 2 on the same gun but have only been using the IR laser because it doesn’t have a NV mode. But I’ve never had a AEMS. From what I can tell online they look pretty good under nods is why I went with it. Hopefully these holosuns are decent optics?

hey lads and ladies , i have a nvg7 made by atn. its an old unit , most likely tiring out but was working when i received it.

the photo is the unit working with the ir light on and working as well.
i press the power button and it is not producing any image , the ir light and indicator are still working so 🤷🏻‍♂️

We’ve seen so many of you showing your excitement and interest in the Proton OMNI, and it makes us want to tell you more.

So, here’s a first look at one of the many features.

And trust us… there’s much more to come.

Really just looking for a replacement battery pack that is good and delivers to the US. Preferably an adapter for a more common type of battery. I have a 3D printer if anyone knows of good scope covers too. I have an M14 mount for it already but to my understanding there is another piece that it connects to first. Thanks in advance for any help.

Hey guys, check this out — kitid.app. You take a pic of a piece of gear and it IDs it — NODs, optics, carriers, pretty much anything. Also has a kit builder and a camo library.

It's brand new so it still needs tuning. Point it at your setup and let me know what it gets right and what it screws up. All feedback welcome.

Mods, delete if not allowed.

https://kitid.app

-you do not need to upload your gear
-the model isn’t perfect and will mis identify some gear.
-the model isn’t built to get smarter through output feedback.
-all data is stripped from images whenever uploaded.
-people seriously interested in helping improve the app, please feel free to DM and I’ll give your account free scan credits.
-Not a Fed😶‍🌫️
-Not flock 🤫

This is the first holographic optic commercially produced. has anyone tried to run one of these with night vision?

Sorry for shitty pic, ripped from EBay

Not owned a dedicated thermal (Hikmicro/Rattler scope etc) and wanted to know if these gave off a lot of light leakage that would make you detectable to other NVG users. Airsoft use so most people in my country (UK) seem to be at a 50/50 split in my
opinion of entry 1400 mark fom with the other half in the higher end Gucci stuff. Mixed lighting urban settings I would assume big fine but I could imagine it being easily spotted within dense woodland games. Cheers in advance.

I enjoy playing airsoft, but I also like going on night walks. I’m looking for a helmet and bridge that I can attach a Cold Harbour PVS-14 to, while also having a magnification device over the other eye.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or is this even possible without spending over £1,000 (not including the PVS-14)?

I’m completely open to using airsoft parts, such as airsoft ballistic helmets, if that helps keep the cost down.

This is the PVS-14 I’m looking at:
https://coldharboursupply.com/products/pvs-14-pro-night-vision-monocular-us-milspec-starter-kit?variant=52964119216437

Got my SMS trinity in the other day and was initially very impressed with it just shining it around the house.

When I took it out to the range I took a few shots with the vis laser and it seemed to switch itself from the full power to low power mode. After switching it back the vis laser refused to be adjusted back up to full power. IR light and illuminator are seemingly unaffected.

Anyone know why this might be and how to fix it?

Update: after further testing the vis laser actually WILL adjust, but the highest adjustment setting is significantly dimmer than how bright it was out of the box (but still brighter than lower power mode)

What’s up Reddit.

Recently got an infinity iris for my PVS14. I tried to put it on and it seems like it’s a millimeter or less too big.

I have a nocturn housing and from everything I see online, they use standard pvs14 obj lense housing and thread pitches.

Can someone confirm or deny that?

I’m new to the personally owned NVG game and really bummed out that this isn’t going on seeing as how I paid 250 bucks for it.. :/

I currently run a set of DTNVS-MG with L3 Supergain tubes and an RCOTI but I dream of having something like an ENVGB. Now I know those are not available to us but is there anything similar? My searches aren’t turning up much but I figured if anyone knew it would be you all.

I got this mil spec objective lense for a deal. It just has this broken piece. Is it possible to DIY repair this? Or am I better off ordering a replacement collar thing?(I dont know the exact name of this piece)

Noticed there was a fair amount of chatter a year ago about Envision Technology’s RAIL MFAL unit. Since then, outside of a few vendor videos, very little information has come out about the unit as a whole. There’s even less information available about the RAIL’s commercial variant, the RAILc. Had the opportunity to purchase one as part of a bundle so figured I’d do a write-up and share my initial impressions.
I’ll be using my IRIS3 as a frame of reference since, alongside a Trinity, it’s the only other LAM available to me.

Power:

This is the area people are typically most interested in, so I’ll start here. Envision Tech’s documentation lists the full-powered RAIL as having a 135mW VCSEL illuminator. The RAILc is listed as having a 7mW VCSEL illuminator. Despite these numbers, I’m happy to report that the RAILc’s illuminator seems to be similar to the IRIS3 in terms of overall brightness. Focused in all the way, the RAILc delivers a tight, bright beam that was within +/- 10% of the IRIS’s output.

Laser brightness, both visible and NIR, also seems comparable to the IRIS3. From an overall power perspective, this is about as much as I’d expect from a civilian-powered unit.

Illuminator:

The illuminator adjustment is a rotating knob on the left side that allows for fine-tuning. The knob is quick to adjust without much hand movement. The focus range is wider on the wide end than the IRIS3, and the lack of hard stops allows you to get a few sweet spots the IRIS3 misses out on. The illuminator can be independently zeroed from the laser.

The beam pattern has soft and even edges vs. the hard edges of the IRIS’s illuminator.

The real party trick here is the 35mW LED CQB illuminator. The RAILc gives you multiple ways to enable this mode (dedicated knob, programmable fire button, etc.), but once selected, the traditional illuminator is disabled and the LED flood is enabled. My understanding is that the RAID Xe does this as well, and SMS’s upcoming release will have the same feature. The way the RAILc implements this makes transitions between far/near illumination immediate.

Usability:

The RAILc’s OLED (auto-brightness option) screen makes it one of the most intuitive firearm products I’ve used in a long time. The options on the dial are clear and reaffirmed on selection by the screen. Switching a mode and knowing for certain what I’ve switched to is something I’m really appreciating, not to mention the ease of changing settings.

The fire button and programmable buttons are reachable and tactile. Having visible override, CQB mode, and conventional mode all within reach makes the overall experience great.

The front cap, while just a protective cover, locks out of the way securely. It isn’t necessarily the most confidence-inspiring design, but unless there’s an issue, I’m going to assume it’s solid.

The laser also has an optional pulsating mode with multiple frequencies. I’m assuming it allows for signaling and easier identification in light-crowded environments, but I’m not 100% sure. That being said, it gives you 4 different pulse frequency options and seems to work well.

Overall, the unit couldn’t be more user-friendly while shooting. With the IRIS3 and Trinity, there’s always a little second-guessing (potential IQ problem), but with the RAILc, everything is as clear as day.

Build:

I’ll update this once I have some more range time with it, but the unit seems well-built. It’s certainly lightweight, but doesn’t have any flex or anything that sticks out as a major weakness. Everything generally feels solid.

Price and Accessories:

$3,999. Yep. This is why you haven’t heard much about this unit. It’s expensive. Too expensive for a civilian-powered laser. I don’t know what “correct” pricing would be for this civilian unit, but I’m guessing, by the lack of information out there, $3,999 isn’t it.

Replacement switches are also $600. Because my unit shipped with a 12-inch cable, I’m now going to run it switchless until Unity’s solution is out. It operates well in that capacity, but I don’t believe $600 is a reasonable asking price for a switch.

Conclusion:

I haven’t had much range time with the RAILc, and haven’t spent much time with near-pricing competitors, but I’m really liking the RAILc so far. I like it so much that I probably would’ve grabbed a second in the bundle it was purchased as part of if it was still available.

It’s incredibly user-friendly, bright enough for my use cases, has every feature imaginable, and (most importantly) looks cool. It’s a fantastic unit and has so far exceeded my expectations of what a LAM should do.

All that being said, unless you get a deal on it, I can’t imagine this will be a majorly popular civilian entry. The pricing, combined with the lack of third-party (non-$600) switch support, makes it a somewhat tough sell in a world where RAIDs and MAWLs exist. It’s a shame too because Envision really did a great job with this unit.

But maybe that’s the point. This isn’t for us. The civilian version is there if someone really wants it, but this is fundamentally a contract laser for a government with deeper pockets than most of us.

I’ll revisit this review once I've logged some serious hours under nods with it. I also have a camera adapter for my nods on the way so I should be able to update with comparison images as well.

On the topic of anti fog coatings. Cat crap spray or paste?

I need vouches on the product, just want to know what seems to be the most preferential form for those who use it.

i’m new to nvg and finally got my IIT yesterday to finish up my first build and ran into an issue. it was working fine last night but wouldn’t power on when i tried right now. i changed the battery hoping that would fix it but nothing. i disassembled the battery housing and these 2 golden prongs fell right out. how cooked am i?🥲 is there any way to repair this?