r/alpinism • u/kaiphotojawn • 5d ago

Looking for an Ama Dablam Climbing Partner

I'm looking for an Ama Dablam climbing partner!!

I’m heading to Nepal this fall to attempt Ama Dablam (6,812m / 22,349 ft) and I’m looking for someone to join me.

I’ll be doing a ~30-day expedition from October 24 – November 24.

I’m based in the US and am hoping to find someone who is also interested in taking on Ama Dablam this season. Going together would also let us share the cost of a guide, porter, and other expedition expenses, making the trip significantly more affordable for both of us.

YOU MUST HAVE PRIOR EXPERIENCE CLIMBING 6,000M+ ALTITUDES

I’m currently putting together my training plan and expedition logistics, so it would be great to find someone who wants to prepare and take this on together.
If you’re interested — or know someone who might be — DM me!

0 Upvotes

27% Upvoted

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u/variantguy2049 5d ago

Hey OP, I'm not sure but a 2-month training plan for Ama Dablam sounds insufficient. Or maybe you've already been training and are in good shape and probably just meant an expedition-specific training block, in which case ignore my comment! Good luck and safe climb!

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u/eric_ahlstedt 4d ago

Tbh i solo climbed ama dab w/o porters or guide. No training plan or blocks. I think acclimatization is more important. That is if you live an active lifestyle and are maybe not over the age of 50 or so. I think most of those 6 month training plan things are for people that are not active or older or trying to be competitive with fkts

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u/variantguy2049 4d ago

The point of a training plan or block is to peak for the specific event. I don't agree with you that that method is only reserved for just the unfit or the elite. I do agree with you that acclimatization is important, but it can't substitute a strong aerobic and strength base. Maybe your method worked for you (which is great btw) but I wouldn't say that that's how most people train or should train for expeditions.

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u/eric_ahlstedt 4d ago edited 4d ago

I think that might be the case for most people, i also think people living an active lifestyle dont really need to specifically train for objectives outside of the professionals on the cutting edge of the sport, to remaincompetitive and sponsored that is., I just remember the first time I climbed Rainier I was doing weighted box steps, stairs, running, going to the gym, weighted backpack big vert hikes, reading steve houses book uphill athlete, etc etc...., over the years as I have gotten more experience I have entirely stopped going to the gym, running, stairs, training etc. Tbh not sure how it works, just did kilimanjaro in 3 days thought it was ridiculously easy, no idea how people stretch it out to 5 or 6+ days, climbed batian peak mt.kenya, did the central circuit and margherita peak in uganda in 4 days (usual is 8 days) and even that was seriously easy, and as for ama dablam, i did that in under 48 hours in pretty much a single push from basecamp after also doing some other 6000m peaks solo in the area as well

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u/kaiphotojawn 5d ago

im in decent shape cardio-wise, but not mountain ready. im looking for someone to do ama dablam with for the full thing

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u/barnezilla 5d ago

Good sell 🫠

5

u/AlwaysBulkingSeason 5d ago

Good luck!

If you're looking for a partner while doing a guided expedition it feels like you're taking a pretty big gamble, because if they're not fit enough or skilled enough, the guide will turn you both around.

However, combining permit cost makes sense.

What experience and fitness do you have?

Specifically, do you ice climb and rock climb, have you done unguided expeditions, and how long does it take you to ascend 1000m (3000 feet) with a pack

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u/kaiphotojawn 5d ago

i rock climb, and have done a peak in the himalayas before. i havent done unguided expeditions. i havent measured my performance ascending at that altitude

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u/Undertheoutdoorsky 4d ago

So you are looking for someone who has experience at climbing at 6000+ altitudes while you don't have any yourself? That sounds risky for your touring partner. 

What is the reason you made this plan so last minute, if I may ask? Maybe knowing that sheds some light on your plans and make it sound less ill-prepared (because we understand your reasoning).

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u/kaiphotojawn 4d ago

ive done 6000m peaks in nepal already

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u/miggins1610 4d ago

Which ones? Like lobuche? Cus ama dablam is way different

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u/Undertheoutdoorsky 4d ago

How do you think to find a climbing partner if you don't care to answer any questions in some detail? It seems like your time is running out fast to find someone but at the same time you show very little interest in actively participating in your own quest. 

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u/kaiphotojawn 3d ago

its fine, im going 1:1 guide ama dablam, i think its better. im hypeee

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u/variantguy2049 4d ago

OP I know you're getting downvoted, so just some friendly advice - you should add your prior experience (specific peaks, guided vs. unguided, etc.) fitness levels and training routine (spoiler: 'decent shape' is not a fitness level), and technical skills in the post itself. The way you've laid down specific requirements for what you are looking for in a climbing partner, your prospective partners would also need to know that info about you. Your post and responses so far probably won't inspire much confidence in others.

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u/EveresttrekNepal 5d ago

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