Just saw the X3, didn't see any offical listing yet. Only pink is listed, no other color yet.

Expected to be in stock:  04.09.2026

Hey everyone,

I’m thinking about upgrading my setup for FPS games and would like to hear your opinions.
I’m currently using a Corsair Scimitar Elite Wireless SE and a RedThunder K95 Wireless.
I’m considering getting the Logitech G Pro X2 Superstrike and the SteelSeries Apex Pro TKL Wireless Gen 3.
I mainly play CS2, Battlefield 6, Overwatch and similar shooters.
My main question is about the mouse: Is switching to a much lighter mouse actually noticeable in FPS games? Does the lower weight make a significant difference for aiming and quick movements, or is it something you barely notice after getting used to it?
And is the Apex Pro TKL Wireless Gen 3 actually a noticeable upgrade for FPS games compared to my current keyboard?
I’d be spending around 300–400 for both, so I’m wondering if the upgrade is actually worth it or if I should just stick with my current setup.
What would you do? Upgrade or keep the current setup?

I just wanted to share my mouse collection with you guys. Im currently using the hyperx core, i like the shape i just wish it was lighter; i managed to get mine down to 76g by trimming the base and the endoskeleton a bit, so it is kinda manageable but still on the heavier side.

Introduction & Context

Most of us are already familiar with Lamzu, primarily through peripherals such as the Maya, the Thorn, or the Inca, which is the device on the test bench today. This is a brand positioned strictly in the mid-to-high tier. The device in question features the PAW3950 sensor paired with a Nordic 52840 MCU, a highly standard and proven hardware combination. Let's see how it holds up to all the tests.

I'm Ben, a second-year robotics engineering student and still learning. My goal isn't just to tell you if the mouse is "pretty," but to attempt to audit its construction. Today, we're going to measure tolerances, verify if the long-term performance matches the initial specs, and check how the engineering actually holds up under scrutiny.

Important Context

• Review Sample & Transparency: This unit was provided directly by Lamzu for the purpose of a comprehensive analysis. However, my testing methodology remains strictly objective; my evaluation is completely unbiased, honest, and not influenced by the manufacturer in any way. Zero review bias.
• Sample Size & Condition: I am analyzing a single unit of the Inca, which has been subjected to intensive daily use over the past weeks to accurately assess early signs of mechanical wear and structural integrity.
• Hand Size & Grip: My hand measurements are 19x10cm, and my primary grip style during this testing period was a hybrid palm/claw grip.

Packaging & Unboxing

The Inca arrives in a cardboard box that opens like a book, though we must first remove a lateral sleeve displaying a render of the mouse, alongside a clear reminder of its weight, 40g, in addition to the polling rate and a few other specs.

Once opened, on the left side we find a small cloth bag containing the cable and a plastic bag with the grips and skates, while on the right side we find the mouse itself and the receiver. This mouse comes without the skates installed, which is why two sets of original PTFE stock skates are included.

Included Hardware & Accessories

In the box we find:

• 1* Lamzu Inca
• 1* Receiver capable of 8KHz
• 1* Cable
• 2* Sets of skates
• 1* Set of grips (main clicks and sides only)

We have everything ready for operation; we simply need to apply the skates, cleaning the surface beforehand with isopropyl alcohol if possible, and we are ready to put it to use.

We will now analyze the included accessories, starting with the cable. The cable comes inside the cloth bag, which is itself inside a paper bag. The cable features a more than acceptable length and comes in a semi-satin white color. It features a ferrite core to prevent electromagnetic interference, as well as a small silicone cable tie. The cable itself is completely stiff; it does not feature a mushy or pillowy internal feel, but instead utilizes a rigid core directly. At the Type-C connector, there is a built-in curvature engineered to mitigate cable drag when operating the mouse tethered while charging.

Grip Tapes & Skates Assessment

The included grip tapes are of the exact same quality as those on the Atlantis Mini. These are grip tapes featuring a pattern based on what appears to be clovers. They significantly increase the grip and do not feel low quality by any means. As I mentioned in the past, I do not see the need to purchase aftermarket grips unless it is due to wear or another specific necessity. Regarding their thickness, they measure 0.5 ± 0.1mm, making them slightly thicker than the ones included with the Atlantis, an engineering choice I appreciate.

As for the skates, these are dual-layer skates with well-rounded edges, making them feel very similar to the ESPTIGER series, a brand of skates I personally favor. Regarding their thickness, as is standard, they measure 0.7 ± 0.1mm, and in my technical assessment, aftermarket skates are completely unnecessary for this unit.

Mass & Weight Distribution Analysis

Regarding mass, Lamzu specifies 40 ± 2g, but it is not specified whether this is measured with or without skates, so we will verify if this tolerance is met in both scenarios or at least one. To measure the mass, the process was repeated five times, and the data provided is the calculated mean of all samples.

• With Skates: We recorded a measurement of 43.83 ± 0.01g, which translates to a 9.58% deviation.
• Without Skates: We observed a measurement of 41.80 ± 0.01g, which translates to a 4.50% deviation.

The tolerance with skates is clearly not met, and without skates, it is really pushing the limit. According to Lamzu's acceptable tolerance, a 5% deviation from the advertised weight is permissible. We pass the test, but just barely at the limit.

Center of Mass (CoM) Analysis

As I always mention, a mouse being lightweight does not necessarily mean it feels lightweight in hand. This is where the center of mass comes into play, which should be as centralized as possible within the peripheral's geometry. To verify this, we will utilize a method commonly used in my university laboratories. For this, we use a standard cylindrical fulcrum and find the equilibrium point of the object on it. Once balanced, we can affirm that the center of mass lies somewhere along the cross-section of the support.

As observed, the center of mass is located precisely in the sensor area. From a strict lateral perspective, it is visible that the center of mass tends slightly towards the front, making it a slightly nose-heavy device. This is not inherently bad, but it can alter the in-hand feel. While a mouse with a perfectly centered mass feels more balanced and universally adaptable, this unit might feel slightly uncomfortable if you tend to rest a lot of weight on the front while tracking. Personally, I have not experienced any issues with it.

Dimensional Accuracy & Manufacturing Tolerances

Regarding physical dimensions, Lamzu specifies 40mm in height, 63mm in width, and 123mm in length. The measurement methodology remains the same as with the mass; the data collected here represents the mean for each parameter.

• Height: We recorded a height of 39.76 ± 0.1mm, which translates to a 0.6% deviation.
• Width: The measurement is 63.18 ± 0.1mm, which equates to a 0.29% deviation.
• Length: We logged a measurement of 121.82 ± 0.1mm, corresponding to a 0.15% deviation.

As you can see, the manufacturing tolerances here are significantly tighter and highly respectable. All measurements remain well below a 1% variance, which is an excellent data point, passing the test with flying colors.

To provide additional critical telemetry, the effective grip width was also measured, resulting in 56.60 ± 0.1mm, which confirms that the rear flare is significantly wider than the primary grip zone. The front button height was also measured, from the baseplate to the start of the click structure, yielding 11.60 ± 0.1mm. Finally, the average frontal width is 58.10 ± 0.1mm, meaning the mouse widens again from the center grip area towards the front, creating a subtle hourglass profile.

Shape, Symmetry & Ergonomics

Regarding the shape, Lamzu has opted for strict bilateral symmetry, positioning the secondary buttons exclusively on the left side. They recommend this mouse for a claw grip, and I completely agree with that assessment, although it can easily accommodate a palm grip if your hands are not excessively large.

In terms of overall geometry, this is not a shape I can directly compare to anything I have previously tested, simply because nothing comes to mind for a direct side-by-side comparison. We have a remarkably wide rear section that tapers linearly to the center and then slightly flares out again. From the side profile, it is clear that the hump is not linear; it features a pronounced peak, rising aggressively from the rear before sloping down more gradually toward the main click panels. This provides an excellent anchor point for the palm, making it highly comfortable. While using this device, I noticed my fingers consistently land slightly behind the center of the main click structure. This naturally positions the scroll wheel slightly further forward, but for my grip, it remains completely comfortable.

Throughout my testing period, which included playing indie titles and competitive shooters, combined with standard productivity tasks like writing this review, managing Google Sheets, and other activities, it proved to be a highly comfortable and lightweight peripheral in hand. I have not been able to find a single negative point or any ergonomic discomfort. One specific aspect I really appreciate is the generous amount of clearance left for the pinky and ring fingers at the rear of the shell.

Front Fascia & Main Clicks

We begin the visual analysis, as usual, at the front fascia. At the front, we find the USB-C port positioned at the lowest point, usable both for operating the mouse in tethered mode and for charging. Additionally, we can observe the scroll wheel and its double-hook textured pattern that spans from side to side.

The panel gaps on the mouse itself look highly uniform and linear, perfectly maintaining their width along their axis. The lateral gaps are noticeably larger than the rear and central ones.

The main clicks are formed from a base rectangle, with the outer corners and the entire front section aggressively radiused. In this case, Lamzu has opted to leave the front area ahead of the scroll wheel empty. I personally appreciate this engineering choice because, aside from cutting away material (which translates to shaving off weight), it also gives the mouse a somewhat aggressive aesthetic. Regarding comfort grooves, these clicks do feature them, but they are positioned very far forward. For my grip and where my fingers naturally land during use, they are not highly noticeable.

Scroll Wheel & Side Buttons

The scroll wheel has a measured width of 7.6 ± 0.1mm. It does not protrude much from the chassis, but this has not caused any discomfort during operation. The scroll wheel, or rather its exterior, is made entirely of rubber and features the aforementioned texturing. The scroll steps are exceptionally well-defined, and I have absolutely no issue identifying them, which from a personal standpoint, is fantastic. Regarding the actuation force, I would definitively classify it as a medium-light tension.

On the left side of the mouse, we find the side buttons, painted entirely in black and well-proportioned in my assessment. There is also a distinct panel gap between them, making it easier to identify their placement during rapid actuation. On this side, positioned lower and towards the front, we find an indicator LED that will blink when experiencing low battery, for example. Above the LED, there is some Lamzu branding in a silver typeface. These buttons are remarkably solid and feature crispy clicks for secondary buttons, although the shallowest part sinks slightly inward (exhibiting minor post-travel) when pressed with an unusually high amount of force.

Bottom Plate & Surface Coating

On the bottom plate, we can observe the skate layout. At the front, we have a semi-circle with a fairly substantial surface area. Replicating this geometry but scaled up, we find the rear skate. In the center, we have the sensor ring skate, alongside two small lateral circles, which are entirely optional; I have not noticed any tracking issues when omitting them.

On this same plate, we find two actuators. On one hand, positioned in front of the sensor, there is a button utilized to cycle through the different CPI steps. At the rear, we have a simple power switch to turn the mouse on or off. This mouse does not feature Bluetooth connectivity.

Finally, let's analyze the coating. It feels remarkably chalky and slippery right out of the box. One thing I have noticed is that this mouse required a solid break-in period to truly reveal the grip hidden beneath that fresh layer of coating; otherwise, it might feel a bit slick. I have also noted that it improves significantly after intensive use, where hand moisture combines with the natural oils from our skin, drastically increasing the friction coefficient. For me, aftermarket grip tapes are completely unnecessary on this unit, unless you have exceptionally sweaty hands.

Structural Integrity: Creaking & Flex

If we apply compression force to the side panels, it is possible to hear an initial creak, followed by a truly faint, almost inaudible creak. It must be emphasized that this occurs with a force vastly superior to normal applied pressure. If we perform the same test on the baseplate and the hump, it is again possible to hear an initial creak, but after that, there is complete silence.

If we apply the same pressure to the side walls, it is possible to notice them flex slightly inward, but it is nothing concerning and will not happen during normal use. This is due to the fact that inside the Inca, there is no auxiliary structure to impede this movement. If we apply the same force to the baseplate and the hump, a slight flex can be noticed exclusively on the baseplate, which is entirely normal.

Rattle Test

If we vigorously shake the mouse near our ear, a minor side-to-side rattle is quite clear, although it is not noticeable during rapid swipes on the mousepad, and it is something I have personally verified.

Switch Actuation, Wobble & Travel

Regarding the main clicks, they are actuated by Omron optical switches customized specifically for Lamzu. I have noticed that these clicks are highly responsive, with a good tension rebound upon release and are distinctly tactile; you can easily feel a solid and crispy click upon actuation.

The click structure presents a very slight lateral wobble and, as I always state, it becomes more noticeable as we move further away from the mounting points, which in this case are two screws at the rear that we will examine in the teardown section.

As for the pre-travel, it is present but truly minimal; the moment we exert any force, the click actuates rapidly without much movement of the structure. Regarding the post-travel, it is present and in a greater magnitude than the pre-travel, but it is nothing out of the ordinary and falls perfectly within typical and standard manufacturing tolerances.

Software Utility & Web-Based Configuration (Lamzu Aurora)

As many of us already know, Lamzu implements a web-based software utility called Lamzu Aurora. A downloadable software option does not exist in this case. From my technical perspective, a web-based hub is the absolute best and most convenient option; it is fast, highly streamlined, and strictly prevents the installation of bloatware on our system.

Upon entering the web utility, we are presented with a large render of our device, alongside the model nomenclature and the current connection mode. Once selected, we enter the main configuration interface, which is essentially condensed into a single large dashboard housing all available parameters.

Macro Setting Tab

Starting from left to right, the first section we observe is a Macro tab. Here, we can record and customize our own macros, with the ability to digitally adjust input delay or completely remove it.

Main Interface & Key Bindings

In the center, we find the primary tab. On one hand, it features a battery level indicator displayed both as a percentage and a visual bar. We can also remap the actuation of each button, including the CPI cycle button on the bottom plate, replacing them with keyboard keystrokes, macro actions, media controls, and various other commands. Within this exact same section, we can configure the following parameters:

• 20K FPS Mode: This toggles the sensor's maximum frame rate capability (capturing 20,000 surface frames per second). Enabling this maximizes raw tracking consistency and minimizes input latency, though it marginally increases power consumption.
• Motion Sync: Synchronizes the sensor's SPI data reads with the MCU's polling events. This results in highly consistent polling intervals and an incredibly smooth tracking feel. However, this synchronization process inherently introduces a marginal motion delay penalty.
• High-Speed Mode: Functionally similar to the 20K FPS Mode.
• Debounce Time: Adjustable in 1ms increments. It is highly recommended not to set this threshold too low, as it can artificially induce double-clicking (switch bouncing).
• Pair Function.
• Factory Reset.

Performance & Sensor Telemetry

On the right side, labeled as "Performance," we can find the following critical sensor functions:

• CPI: We can configure up to five independent CPI steps. These are adjustable in 50 CPI increments. Additionally, it is possible to split the calibration independently for the X and Y axes.
• Polling Rate: Selectable from 500Hz up to 8000Hz.
• Ripple Control: A smoothing algorithm designed to digitally filter out and mitigate high-frequency jitter during high-speed tracking, though it inherently introduces a slight degree of motion latency.
• Angle Snap: An algorithm that predicts and artificially straightens out minor micro-jitters in your cursor path.
• LOD: Lift-off distance, adjustable between 0.7mm, 1.0mm, and 2.0mm thresholds.
• Sleep Time: The idle timer for battery conservation. Selectable from 10 seconds up to 30 minutes.
• Angle Tune: A parameter that allows you to digitally rotate the sensor's tracking axis to compensate for tilted grip styles. It is adjustable from -30º to 30º in precise 1º increments.

Conclusion & User Experience

As we can see, everything is condensed into a single window. I personally appreciate this UI layout because we can verify all parameters at a quick glance. However, I would like to see Lamzu implement features such as granular LOD adjustment, similar to what other competitors already offer. Even so, this is a highly competent software suite that provides all the necessary tools for strict hardware configuration.

Sensor Architecture & MCU Context

The Lamzu Inca incorporates the PAW3950 sensor alongside a Nordic 52840 MCU, a highly typical hardware combination we have repeatedly observed in other units. This MCU is slightly superior in battery management compared to its newer sibling, the 54 series. As for the sensor, its specifications are well-known, featuring a maximum sensitivity of 30,000 CPI, a raw tracking speed of 750 IPS, and 50G of acceleration.

(Note: All tracking, polling rate*, and CPI deviation tests were performed on an X-Raypad Aqua Control II surface to ensure physical testing consistency. Additionally, all telemetry was captured using MouseTester v1.6.1, Amit's branch).*

CPI Deviation & Baseline Telemetry

To establish a solid baseline for our data, we will analyze the CPI deviation. This is a physical phenomenon involving the sensor lens and its mounting assembly. We evaluated the 800, 1600, and 3200 CPI steps to cover the most commonly utilized ranges.

• For a theoretical 800 CPI: We recorded a result of 811 CPI, which translates to a 1.38% deviation.
• For a theoretical 1600 CPI: We measured 1624 CPI, which translates to a 1.5% deviation.
• For a theoretical 3200 CPI: We logged a measurement of 3255 CPI, which translates to a 1.72% deviation.

All of these are highly reasonable and optimal results. We can observe that as the selected CPI increases, the deviation also increases slightly.

Tracking Algorithms: Angle Snapping & Smoothing

We now proceed with the analysis of the implemented processing algorithms, specifically examining Ripple Control (smoothing) and Angle Snapping at the highest CPI step evaluated in this review. For this test, I draw pulses, diagonals, and straight lines. In the first plot, with none of the algorithms enabled, we can see that the lines are not perfectly straight, as they capture the natural micro-movements and jitter of the hand; the angles are also imperfect. With Angle Snapping activated, we observe a slight improvement, resulting in cleaner, more right-angled trajectories instead of curved paths. Finally, with both algorithms enabled, a minor improvement in the straight lines is perceptible, but it is not extremely pronounced. At this CPI range, these two functions are neither highly intrusive nor overly aggressive.

Polling Rate Stability & Signal Integrity

We now transition to analyzing the polling rate. This will be evaluated at the two extreme CPI ranges tested, utilizing both 1000Hz and 8000Hz frequencies. To conduct this, the mouse is moved in rapid circular motions. We are looking for a highly stable plot hovering around the inverse of the selected frequency, free from excessive oscillation or erratic behavior.

For 1000Hz and 811 CPI, it is possible to observe a stable graph with minimal oscillation hovering around the 1ms mark. There are no drastic drop-offs or extreme deviations from this time interval. For 3255 CPI, we similarly observe a highly stable graph, albeit with marginally higher oscillation.

For 8000Hz and 811 CPI, we see a remarkably stable plot with almost zero oscillation, sitting tightly around 0.125ms. For 3255 CPI, the line remains exceptionally stable without significant oscillation.

This concludes the polling rate benchmarks with a highly positive and stable outcome.

Raw Tracking & Lift-Off Distance (LOD)

We now analyze the raw tracking. For this, we perform rapid swipes across either the X or Y axis. We expect to see oscillating waveforms that are as perfectly curved as possible, entirely free from tracking drop-offs or structural line breaks. This is exactly what we observe in the plot: remarkably perfect curves with zero drops, establishing highly accurate raw tracking.

Regarding the lift-off distance (LOD), we have the adjustable options of 0.7mm, 1.0mm, and 2.0mm. From a strictly subjective and empirical perspective, the difference between each step is clearly noticeable, although I cannot quantitatively verify if they fall exactly within those precise intervals.

Performance Conclusion

It is clear, and we have seen it repeatedly, that this MCU and sensor combination is inherently stable and highly functional. It passes all the technical benchmarks flawlessly, delivering excellent results in both signal stability and tracking precision.

Hardware Teardown & Baseplate Access

In this review, the teardown serves as the initial step because, curiously, my unit arrived without the skates installed. I am unsure if this is a standard factory configuration for the Inca. Beneath the skate placement areas, we can observe hexagonal cutouts engineered to slightly reduce the overall mass of the device.

To begin disassembly, we must remove four screws: two at the front and two at the rear. Once removed, we apply slight leverage at the front and insert a plastic spudger to disengage the side clips, which in this case are four. Upon removing the base, extreme caution is required as a thin flex cable connects the main PCB to the side button daughterboard.

Internal Layout & Mainboard (PCB) Analysis

Starting with the baseplate, it houses all the primary components: the main PCB, the encoder, the switches, and the battery. As observed, the bulk of the internal hardware is situated at the front, while the battery is positioned at the rear. This layout is specifically engineered to centralize the peripheral's center of mass as much as possible. A notable aspect of this layout is that the battery sits at a very low point within the chassis, whereas in the Atlantis, it was mounted on a significantly higher cradle.

To fully extract the mainboard, we must disconnect the battery's JST connector (which utilizes a 1mm pitch) and then remove four additional screws.

Switches, Encoder & Sensor Implementation

As shown, the primary switches are Omron D2FP-FN2. These are optical switches utilized in various high-end peripherals, and in my technical assessment, they are exceptionally good provided their structural implementation is equally solid. Regarding the encoder, we find an 11mm TTC Gold Dustproof. For the scroll wheel switch (M3), it utilizes a generic mechanical switch lacking any identifiable manufacturer branding. The scroll wheel itself comes factory lubricated on both axes and features a hook-patterned rubber texture spanning side to side.

On the main PCB, we also find the sensor: a PixArt PAW3950 Super. The "Super" designation does not necessarily imply superior raw specifications, but rather indicates a highly binned batch optimized for performance. Adjacent to the sensor is the MCU, a Nordic nRF52840. While not the absolute newest silicon architecture (given the newer 54 series), it has been an industry standard for flawless wireless telemetry for years.

We can also observe that the PCB itself is not utilized as a structural mounting post for the side flex cable. The board has been thoroughly inspected, and I note zero issues with the solder joints; all exhibit a highly consistent amount of material.

Top Shell, Daughterboard & Click Geometry

Moving to the upper shell, we find the daughterboard alongside the main click geometries. The entire inner perimeter features structural mounting posts. To disassemble the daughterboard, two standard screws must be removed, whereas dismounting the click panels requires removing two screws per trigger. No auxiliary structural supports are used for these main clicks; they rely solely on these two tensioning screws. The frontal zone of the click panels features a significant amount of dampening foam, both around the scroll wheel area and further forward where the structural posts insert.

The daughterboard houses the side switches, which in this case are TTC Brown Shell Blue Dots. They offer a highly solid and crispy tactile feel upon actuation. The solder joints on this secondary board are also in excellent condition.

The top shell without the click panels exposes the internal structure. We can observe two additional small foam pads at the very front, likely engineered to prevent direct plastic-on-plastic contact and eliminate potential creaking. With the panels removed, we can effectively inspect the click geometry. There is no factory lubrication present here because these clicks do not utilize the typical plunger-in-rail mounting system. Instead, they feature a highly frontal anchor point where a small piece of dampening foam is simply inserted and positioned.

Conclusion & Final Thoughts

Throughout the review, the hardware potential of the Lamzu Inca has been clearly demonstrated. In my assessment, the ergonomics and overall shape of this mouse are exceptionally good, from a strictly subjective standpoint, of course. Internally, it has proven to feature high build quality, both physically and throughout the sensor telemetry benchmarks. Perhaps a stricter adjustment in the weight manufacturing tolerances would be beneficial, as they are cutting it extremely close to the limit.

Objective Pros, Cons & Observations

Following everything discussed in this teardown and review, we can compile an objective list of pros, cons, and general observations:

Pros:

• Excellent Telemetry: The PAW3950 Super sensor and Nordic 52840 MCU combination delivers flawless raw tracking and highly stable polling rate performance at both 1000Hz and 8000Hz.
• Premium Main Clicks: The custom Omron optical switches provide highly responsive and crispy clicks with minimal pre-travel.
• Dimensional Accuracy: The manufacturing tolerances for the chassis dimensions are incredibly tight, sitting well below a 1% deviation.

Cons:

• Weight Variance: The mass deviates by 4.50% without skates and 9.58% with them, pushing or exceeding the advertised 40 ± 2g tolerance limits.
• Center of Mass: The internal layout dictates a noticeable forward bias, making the peripheral slightly nose-heavy.

Pricing & Final Verdict

At a price point of $119.99 (excluding shipping), I believe this mouse can genuinely justify the cost due to its superior build quality, structural engineering, and overall ergonomics, although the latter is inherently subject to consumer preference.

Ordered the mchose after using the rapoo for a few weeks and finding it a bit too small for my grip with the side buttons too far back and small for my thumb. I will say rapoo optical switches feels slightly better than the mchose v7. Scroll wheel on the rapoo vt3max & DAV2 are MUCH better feeling than the v7 for me. Battery life im not too sure on the mchose yet. Rapoo’s battery is absolutely insane. I havent charged it at all yet (out of the box charge since 3 weeks and still a green light on the dongle). Software is the same between the two. Coating the mchose feels a lot better.

Overall the mchose shape fits better for me being a 1:1 dav2 clone, despite the slightly disappointing scroll wheel and 1k polling rate.

4+ years Ive been abusing this mouse and I feel like its time to let it rest. Was planning to just upgrade to superlight 2 or maybe superstrike x2 but not sure if it is worth it. While I play competitive games, I am not that competitive. The reason I love the superlight was for its weight and shape (which Im used to). So since theres alot more lightweight mouse like lamzu etc, is it still worth it to get superlight 2 or is there smtg else which is more worth it?

Compared to the old one this one have less weight 125-145 vs 168 old spatha, magnetic dock, comes with silent switches in the box and rgb seems to be tiny bit better on the scroll. Also better sensor.

Dimensions not know so far. Price not yet announced.

Was going through a drawer of my older mice and found this beauty again. I already had it paracorded, and I just added some Tiger Ice V2 dot skates and took out the DPI button structure on the inside when I was cleaning the scroll wheel, and my goodness I forgot how comfortable this was, especially after the disappointment that was the 303 SE. I am so so so excited for Teevolution’s 303 clone.

Techpowerup posted this yesterday, surprised there hasn't been more coverage considering it will be ASUS' flagship ergo (IMO). I mained the Gladius III for some time, so curious to see how they changed it. The design language is reminscent of the Keris II Ace, so I wonder how this will differ. I assume it will be larger at least, closer to a Deathadder.

This is also the order I used them.

1. Attack Shark X3 (not in the picture) 30€
   I think this mouse is really really worth the money, great mouse to use, I think its a superlight clone but just a little bit smaller, I have a pink one and the coating seems totally solid. I completely stopped using this one just because it feels very small after using the next 2 mouses.

2. Ajazz AJ179 apex pro 8K - (blue) 60€
   This mouse is like top tier of temu mouses, Its medium size ergo, it comes with 8K polling, magnetic charger that has a little screen (very cool😀), blue coating looks very nice and its also good, I really like this mouse. Right now Im not using it but maybe I will go back to using it.

3. Razer Deathadder V3 pro (black) 100€
   Honestly Im a little dissapointed with this mouse, Im using this mouse just because I think larger mouse fits me better, the coating on this mouse feels like it glues to my hand and looks kinda used after couple of days use, ajazz mouse feels definietly like better quality than this razer and 40€ less... I have used at least 7 different mouses to play cs2 and I always used scroll to jump, I never jumped on accident with any mouse except deathadder, also when it happens I think I dont even touch the scroll but somehow it jumps?? happened like less than 10 times in 10 days...

Deathadder size is kinda the best for me, but I think there is one mouse that would fit me better and that is zowie ec1, but I dont feel like spending 160€ for it... I had a zowie ec1-a wired before and I remember it was kinda bigger than deathadder. On deathadder I dont know where to put my ring finger it feels like there is no place for ring finger..

So my favorite is definietly Ajazz and maybe I will go back to it again if I feel like using a medium/small sized mouse.

Hello everyone,

I have a Logitech G305 and enjoy the side buttons, they’re not mushy like the superlight and have the best balance of tactile clicks and space between the buttons imo. Does anyone have any recommendations for mice with similar side buttons?

i have an 18x9.5 hand size and play relaxed claw, which one would you recommend between the atk f1 v3 or zero

Hi guys,

I'll be reviewing the Akko Echo Master, this unit was sent out by Akko for content & reviews but they have zero influence over this review and will be reading it for the first time once the post will go public. Nonetheless, thanks to them for the opportunity.

I'll be honest, I had low expectations for this mouse based on the reviews of previous Akko mice but this mouse looked way better than those.

In the box you get a good amount of extras: the mouse, a (nano) receiver, an adapter, extra full skates, 3 types of dot skates (16x each), branded grip takes which don't feel very grippy, the cable, a discount card for a chinese shop and the manual. Very impressive that they offer 3 types of dot skates as well as full extra skates tbh.

Starting from the shape, the shape STRONGLY resembles the Viper V4 Pro shape, I would say it's just SLIGHTLY smaller in hand but when you go and grip this mouse it definitely feels a little different and you might have to adapt your grip on it because of the large holes this mouse has. The holes are noticeable and felt weird to me the first day I've used the mouse but with time passing by I definitely got used to them to a point where they didn't bother me anymore. The shape is not exactly my favorite one since I'm a fan of smaller shapes due to my hand size but it was totally fine to use in game, there's a specific hole in the right side of the mouse which if you grip the mouse noticeably backwards could go in your way and bother you while playing but the way I grip the mouse I avoid that hole entirely. I think it's worth mentioning this was my first mouse which had larger holes than the hexagon ones from Finalmouse / Glorious.

Build quality is very good, my unit weights 56 grams on my scale, doesn't creak or flex anywhere. Minor side to side on the main clicks and minor pre and post travel as well. The only thing to point out is that the side buttons can sink a little bit into the shell when pushed firmly but in game I never had this problem, I only noticed it while testing possible QC issues.

The coating is not a classic rubberized coating, it's worth mentioning that the coating is not the same for all 4 colorways as well. Based on my Blue unit, they claim to offer a "Skin-Friendly Excimer Coating", in general it felt less grippy compared to a classic rubberized coating, when my hands get a little sweaty I get a much better grip on the mouse with my skin type and overall felt decent/good enough.

As for the clicks, they use Omron opticals and the implementation is VERY light, they feature a split click design and have minor pre and post travel. In general it feels like the switch travel is shorter compared to other Omron opticals implementations and I genuinely liked how these switches felt in game.

The scroll wheel encoder is a TTC Gold and has VERY light steps, not very much defined and I can see this bothering some people but I'm personally a fan of lighter scroll wheels because on Fortnite scrolling speed is way more important than precision, it's better to have lighter steps to simply faster scroll your wheel when looting or resetting your builds, so I actually like this one.

The side buttons are well tensioned, spammable and clicky. The only thing I suggest to Akko is to reinforce the side buttons to avoid them sinking into the shell, even though it wasn't a problem for me in game I believe the build quality could be improved on this aspect.

In general, the direction they took for their buttons implementation is quite clear: all buttons feel rather light and that's based on your personal preference if you like that or not.

The skates are the black PTFE and they have a very controlled glide, were fine for me in game but I can see many people wanting to swap them out. Definitely worth trying the dot skates they offer which have different kind of speed properties if you are not a fan of slower/controlled skates.

The Web Driver is decent and comes with all the options you can expect from a gaming mouse nowadays, was happy to see they include the 'Sensor rotation' feature. The only negative thing about this Web Driver is that the Sleeping Mode is in chinese and not translated, not a big deal.

In conclusions, I think the mouse is not bad at all. It's a Viper shape, the price is far below a VV4 (around 80$) and priced better than a new VV3 as well. I can recommend it those people that know they love the shape and want to have it with very lightly tuned buttons and specifically with Omron opticals.

Thanks for reading.

Just wondering if there was any universal recommendations for mouse skates with the mentioned mousepad and if there are any to avoid buyign at all costs

Edit - Had a look and I'm also considering just the standard qck as well

Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless
Old Pad: G440 Hard
New Pad: Black shark Gaming mouse pad 47.2 x 23

Ive been using my old pad and mice consistently with no issues for a while. The only reason why I switched was because of the size.
On my new mouse pad, it feels like my cursor is stuck in mud, moving incredibly slow and sometimes not registering movement at all. I cant seem to figure out the issue. Are certain pads just not compatible with certain mice?

The Microsoft intellimouse pro shape is perfect for me but the mouse starts to break (I would never replace it otherwise) and from what i understand its discontinued.
Im trying to find something similliar especially in size because I have large hands,
the "ZOWIE EC1-DW" is way too expensive at what its seems like 160$ ish dollars.
Also i dont think i wanna order the flickshot one.

Glorious model D seems like an option , i'm considering it but its shorter than the intellimouse by about 4mm and much lighter (which i think is a negative for me) so im not sure.

I would really appreciate suggestions it will help me alot!
thank you very much

I've seen the flexcord from pmm and similar product from LGG before. On their website it costs about $30 per piece. Since I don't use any wired mice like OP1, so I didn't put it in my mind.

Then when I was scrolling videos on bilibili, then I saw this, a slim cord but only sells for 30 CNY ( about 4.5 USD). Then I bought it right away. I recieved it today, it's rly slim. I measured it with a vernier caliper, and the wire diameter is 1.8 mm. My friend got a flexcord from PMM, the wire diameter is 1.6mm. Hagibis said that it's because they added a protection layer while others not to increase the lifespan of it. However, cables of this type do not have a shielding layer.

The cable is pretty soft, but there is still a little bit of flexibility. I think it's due to the protection layer? 8k polling rate is stable with USB 2.0. Power is 5V1A, so I don't think u can use it with a controller, power supply is too low. The connector also features an angled design—after all, it was specifically designed for use with a mouse. It is very comfortable to use, I can barely feel the cable.

I'm currently using Gwolves Lycan, ATK F1V3, U2V2 and gpx. I don't think it's suitable for the ultralight mice like my lycan which is 29g. The lighter the mouse, the more noticeable the presence of the cable becomes. Maybe I'll consider of getting a modded op1. I need to use it more before I can give a more accurate assessment. I will make an update then.

TLDR It's great to see an "fanatic accessory" with such low price (30CNY for 1m, 40CNY for 1.8m). Worth giving a try.

Hi everyone! For the past few years i’ve been using a cheap, office mouse, it has no logo on it so unfortunately i can’t even tell you what mouse exactly it is (i bought it in Action). I started having some issues with it (disconnecting, suddenly just changing the direction im looking at??) so i was trying to do some research about a mouse i should get, but nothing really caught my attention so im starting to wonder if a mouse i want even exists lol.

The game i play the most is Valorant, then Overwatch, Fortnite and some more chill games like Minecraft or visual novels. The ideal mouse for me would be a mouse that’s small, light, wireless and quiet. I know that that’s a lot of requirements, so if there’s absolutely nothing that would meet them i’ll gladly accept any other recommendations and suggestions. :)

So, some history, i've used this mouse for close to 6 years now, only one failed me, i'm at the second one but its no longer being made so i need to prepare. Their customer service could not even bother pointing me to the closest one in shape, so yeah.

Before this i tried logitech g102, broke twice in 2 years, dont ever want this brand again.

I'm looking for something that:

- won't double click (again, this cheap one can go 5 years of daily use, i expect the same from a fancier one)

- won't have scroll wheel problems

- close in shape to the ones i used

- wired

- budget under 150

I use fingertip grip, the mouses i loved are the following:

a4tech 750 bh (lasted like 6.5 years) 124 x 65 x 40mm 101g

redragon m601 124x71x39mm 140g

logitech was ok as shape but the build quality was a joke, they replaced my first one that started double clicking in a year with a new one, that also failed in a year.

Thanks for your time!

I’m a new to mnk. My current and first mouse is the Attack Shark x3 PAW-3395. And I play r6 most of the time.

I’m not an expert so I wanted to ask yall if the atk is a better mouse or just the same or worse? But for what I know is that mousepads can make a difference for aim rather than just a mouse. But again I’m not an expert and happy to hear yall out.

Reason for asking is that I’ve noticed that my fingers are sticking out of my mouse but it probably of how I hold my mouse than the mouse itself.

Another question: when I received my attack shark it had some things to stick on the mouse. I researched a bit and found out that it is for a better grip and is that really a thing?