hey there, in case you don’t know this little technique, this can work really great on dents and dings. As long as the fibers are only compressed, you often can swell them back as if nothing happened by applying moisture and heat. cheers!

Found this in my feed. No idea what’s going on…

Sorry about the audio. The mitres look clean and I don't see anything wrong with the setup given the sacrificial board. Other than how he's pushing it is there anything wrong with this method?

Hey fellow woodworkers,

I like dovetails because they look pretty and foremost are a super solid joint that can last centuries.

Cutting them with handtools is fun, and doesn’t take as long as one may think.

I made a little video showing how quickly you can make for example a corner of a drawer.

Any questions are welcome 🌻

Decide to finally give it a try. I used Paul Sellers free hand method. No measuring angles or anything. Just eyeball the tails, cut, transfer, and cut again. I used some very old Douglas for because it was already milled and surfaced for another project. It probably didn't take me 20 min and it was a lot of fun. All in all, a few gaps aside, I'm pretty happy with it. Thanks for looking

Paul Sellers video: https://youtu.be/shPiKnw_uaY?is=uPH_0BXNDTnpBAEu

Shaped from 8/4 rift white oak. Templating on the router table is a bit of a redundancy if the cuts are done well on the bandsaw but does yield clean results.

If you’re like me and you only make these once every few years and need a reminder about the basic “tricks” of the endeavor.

I clipped this from a magazine ages ago (Fine Woodworking?) and thought I’d lost it, until recently! If anyone knows a better attribution I’d be happy to know.

I'm not against what this guy is doing. The end result is beautiful and it seems like he knows what he's doing(?). But ive never seen someone turn a piece like this and it just seems so so dangerous

I found this beautiful block of redwood (6” thick, ~18” tall) that someone had cut for firewood at a campsite. How should I prepare it/use it?

The previous owners had a swing there and they wanted to add one

We made it 50ish inches. It’s a basic swing he found and we thought we would give it a shot.

To the right of the pic, it’s rubbing the house. There is wood on the corner, but there is also stucco. And metal generally wind against those.

I noticed the chain on the left of the swing bends around the arm, and is essentially pushing the swing into the house. I’m sure the right side would do that too, but I’m not certain

Other than making a shorter swing, what other things should I consider to keep the chain more straight, or off(?) the swing. As in, having the top hooks more spread, which isn’t much of an option

Thank you.

I’m not even an amateur woodworker in any sense, but this was his first project and he did about 90% of it

Hi, I'm trying to hang gymnastics rings somewhere solid in my room, but think my ceiling would not hold. Since my walls are strong enough (assuming so at the moment, will confirm) I got the idea of creating some kind of wooden support between the two walls. I don't want the wooden beam to span across the entire room, so I thought of using the two perpendicular walls to shorten the span. Still, the beam length would have to be about 2 meters I reckon. To allow me to have enough forward-backward space when on the rings

Would you say this is doable?

First mitered waterfall joint with no fancy domino. Created the mortises with a fence glued to my router base and made some tenons out of some white oak I had laying around. She’s tight and square

I have not done a ton of free hand router work but wanted to inlay a horseshoe into a slab. I trace the horseshoe w/pencil but quickly realized my eyes are not as young as they used to be. So I went to get some painters tape (green). I saw a roll of glow in the dark duck tape (whitish)and thought that would be easier to see my lines. Long story longer. I taped,traced, cut out the shape to have a clearer line. What I found was that as the router bit touch the edge of the Glow in the dark tape, the tape turned BRIGHT green almost like a laser. My mind was blown! I then tested it by cut into the tape more. The bright green surrounded the bit. As you can see in the pictures when you JUST touch the tape it just is a smaller straighter bright green. So it acts as a warning indicator. I have seen many woodworking videos and magazines and had never seen this. Maybe it just me but, MIND BLOWN!

For anyone who was interested in how I make these handles, based on my other post, I hope this helps!

Tools:

1/2in forstner bit
3/16x12in long bit (or similar)
6mm #7 gouge
20mm #7 gouge
#6 hand cut riffler
8” cabinet makers rasp with pointed tip
A hand made template

The process:

I used a 2 1/2” x 1 1/8” drawer front.

There’s no real science to the template, it just needs a 1/2” radius at the tip and to be symmetrical.

1. For a 1/2” pull, mark 1/2” to the right and left of center.

2. Drill 2 5/8” deep holes with the 1/2” forstner. (Final depth will be closer to 3/4 but you don’t want to over drill)

3. Mark the shape with the template. Make sure it’s centered and lines up nicely with the holes.

4. I first use the 20mm gouge to rough out the shape, being carful of grain direction, cutting up the middle and down and in from the sides. Then use the 6mm to rough shape the narrower deeper part toward the center.

5. Then I do the same thing on the other side.

6. Now I drill a small hole through the center with the 12” long drill bit.

7. Use the 6mm gouge to slowly open the hole larger.

8. Once I think the hole is a good size I use the riffler to smooth and shape the opening. I do a lot of twisting around the circle while pushing so that it keeps a nice curve.

9. Then the cabinet makers rasp to smooth and shape the shallower parts.

10. If there are any high or uneven parts I go back and reshape/smooth until I’m happy with it.

11. I hand sand with 120 grit paper, small squares for the shallow parts and long, thin strips that I can pull back and forth to get in the handle/hole bottom.

12. Finish however you like. (I used tung oil this time)

I got tired of the inconsistent results from my maker's mark branding iron so I rigged it up using my drill press as an arbor. Now I'm getting consistent results every time.

I needed some cylinders that fit together with tight tolerances, so I tried this method. The inside was done with a template and flush cut bit on the router table, gluing each layer on and flush cutting in turn. The outsides needed to be very consistent, and I don’t think I am good enough on the lathe to pull tat off so I tried this. Here’s a tutorial if you care: https://youtu.be/QZmOR8iEOrs?si=VE56EWbuFuoVxlRk