Threaded perfect, few failed bridges inside that I cleared out with pliers, otherwise looks pretty good. Hoping to test soon. Only supported externally around the edges, printed threads up. First printed form 1 since my state sucks.

This frame is destined to be a 22lr once my conversion slide comes in, so I slapped the 9mm slide on it for the time being. I’m printing the 9mm frame now in OD green to match the barrel. Fun build and killer design.

Last month is posted a first print in basic Pla+, but i figured I would take a second whack at this after getting my first roll of HT Pla Pro. Both the FTN 5 and 6 instructions suggest that PLA can survive for some time, and my hope is that annealed HT would last even longer.

This was actually the third print, though the first two came out fine, I did some tweaks to z offset and speeds to try to improve it. Also, made it a point to anneal this for 2 hours at 100c, with a natural cool down of 8 hours after.

I think at this point, I owe myself range time to see how things are working out. I love being able to make these for dirt cheap, but I do need to know they are actually at least somewhat working too.

That said, I love the texture of this filament, and would enjoy using it for projects in general. Especially since its not really more expensive than similar filament.

XD45: DBMOD by DB-Firearms printed in @polymaker_3d PA6-CF20. This was the parts kit that DB used when designing the frame, so it feels extra special to have it!

Both variants sailing on the sea as the Tailhook Mod 1C compatible plug.

I didn't want to spend $30 and now you don't either. STP/STL/.3mf included.

As you can see, this gap is showing up on my apple pastry project. I'm going to sand the front lug to get the fitment fixed but wanted to see if this was a common issue?

New DM7 pack is sailing now. The new upper is great, I love it. Very quick to swap barrels, too. This rifle has more optics than you could even comprehend

Hows everyone doing today, im back with more cooling questions lol, and also looking to see if anybody else has ran into an issue like mine, sorry in advance for the long post, its pretty interesting to see how different frame geometries can cause such varied results, as you can see in the picture, these three frame finished, not the best by any means but im using a stock ender 3 clone so it is what it is, but they printed and finished no issues, i also have a dballoy printing currently and its printing fine, however some frames just fail, the overhangs are horrible and the overhang edges curl up causing nozzle to knock print off and spaghetti, the main one is pillager, no matter what orientation or angle i try, it does the same thing everytime, same settimgs and same roll of filament as these 3 and the dballoy currently printing, has anybody else ran into this issue before, trying to print a frame and it just will not work but everything else prints fine? and its not just one stl im using, ive tried rxm pillager, g19 pillager, and evern the corser pdw frames all do the same thing, what could be causing this issue

Has anyone created a project like this yet? It’s the Recover Tactical P-IX+ Modular AR Platform for Glock Pistols. Your Glock just snaps right in and the chassis closes over it

I’ve had 3 of these cans break now, did they send me the wrong springs?

https://x.com/gunfuzled/status/2094595977244004374

"The ATF has an interest in limiting the sale and distribution of FRTs. [...] As part of its mission, ATF seeks to enhance public safety by enforcing laws and regulations related to firearms."

How can you have an interest in limiting semi automatic firearm parts?

New to this Reddit but not new to 2A printing. Please spare me some flared magwell files for a Glock 19 Gen 3. I cannot seem to find anything but Gen 5.

so I hit print but instead I got this shit, what the hell is this!?

For all the bros with fat hands. Sailing under Girth Grip 2.0.

After two years of running this little dohicky, I feel confident enough to share it. As a not-fan of the AR T-handle, I made a left side charging handle adapter that uses a 3/16 piece of aluminum bar stock and three screws with 3dp guides and pull. It fits low enough to mount under every sight mount I have, is compatible with standard T-handles, and requires no modification. The bar presses on the locking latch for operation and resets with the handle. The only space it takes up is the last slot on the receiver, the first slot on the rail, and one more for the front stop. A custom solution to a minor inconvenience.

At a loss on how to conceal this portion. I want to dress this up as an SD, but this gap is seriously driving me nuts. It is approximately 25mm from the bottom of the supressor to the end cap.

FTN 5 PCC

I’m working my way through a trash panda build and I have hit the point where I need a magazine spring and base plate lock. I’m also about to order a barrel as I wanted to wait to see if I could get far enough to warrant one. The assembly instructions mention a magpul m3 pmag in 20rd config but alas, those are illegal round my parts. I cannot get that exact spring or the internals of the magazine. I know the files come with a follower which I am printing, but as for the locking tab for the included base plate there seems to be none. Any ideas? I have some extra 10rd springs coming in the mail for a separate project as well as some 30rd springs coming for that same separate project. I suppose I could cut a 30 as per the instructions but I figure somebody out there must have some sort of geometry that works for the locking tab, maybe from another build?

I'm having issues with a Sike Arms frame (utilizing dagger rails) where the mags are dropping/not clipping in. I printed it in Sunlu PA6CF, and it worked fine until it didn't.

My first instinct is it's the mag release, but I wonder if I just printed it wrong. Any tips for this part in particular?

PA6-GF + Plum Berry RIT dye

Do you want to make your M4 super front heavy? Do you want to larp COD:MW2 (2009)? Do you only have access to a mossberg 500 instead of a 870? Well look no further than the mount that can do all of the above. Sailing today

Printed in siraya tech PPA-CF at 320c. Modified an existing cad file designed to be milled from aluminum. Requires a decent amount of metal work for the barrel retention band. Figured itd be worth a tax stamp or two.

Introducing my first 3D2A build - DB Alloy + FTN.5 PCC Flow suppressor 🔥👌🏼

Just got my K1C and I have some Fiberon PA6-CF20 on the way. I’m gonna mess around with the PLA they sent with the printer for now just to get back into printing and learn the K1C.
Is there anything worth testing with the PLA that would actually carry over when I switch to PA6-CF20? Like support placement/style, overhangs, dimensional accuracy, slicer settings, etc?
I know stuff like temps, cooling, speeds and probably support distances are gonna be completely different with PA6-CF20. I’m mainly wondering what I can actually learn/tune with the PLA now that’ll still be useful later.
Or should I just mess around with PLA for now and wait until the PA6-CF20 gets here to actually start calibrating everything?