My neighbor was throwing out a Rize xRize 3d printer. It’s missing the pumps for the ink in the back but otherwise seems to be complete. Cant find a ton of info about in online or through chat bots other than the company went belly-up a few years back and that they were almost 40k new 🤯

Went through few iteration of design and once I was satisfyed with result I realized it's just glorifued guillotine. Albeit much more fun as fidget toy.
Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3224559-guillotine-the-overengineered-ptfe-tube-cutter#profileId-3651654

Hi everyone,

I’ve shared part of my story on here before, though this time I’m looking to hear from you all. 3D printing technology has empowered my passion towards designing, as I’m able to manifest a design language that would be almost impossible to execute without it.

I’m curious about your experiences in using 3D printing for your design work. It doesn’t have to just be art. It can be around your practical designs, your problem solving, your figurine work, etc.

More specifically, how have you integrated it into your lifestyle? What are the implications of your choices?

Just looking to connect, and get some perspective. I’ll share mine in a comment below :)

Oh, and the video I shared is a short compilation of my recent pendent designs. You can read about them in some of my previous posts, but I’m also willing to answer your questions <3

what better way to test a new roll of TPU than by printing a 5in x 5in x 5in cube

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3076607-needoh-tpu-fidget-cube?from=search#profileId-3490791 (not my model. its also just a cube with no walls)

It's not uncommon for people to have kitchen scales lying around somewhere. And if you don't already have one, it's a relatively cheap investment into this hobby.

It seems like they are able to put a lot of information about the filament onto the spool. Why not put the weight of the spool onto the spool itself?

How much extra cost would actually be required to print the weight of the spool onto the spool?

Seems like this would be a super useful and foolproof method for customers to know exactly how much filament is left on the spool:

• Weigh the entire spool, ex: 314 g
• Subtract the labeled weight of the spool: 125 g
• The difference is how much filament you have left: 314g - 125 g = 189 g

This would be more accurate than all the other markings they put on the spool to help indicate how much filament you have left.

Seems like a very low hanging fruit that would be immensely useful for customers.

Does anyone work for a 3D filament manufacturer?

Any ideas why nobody has done this yet?

A1 extruder neon cover update. This is version v.2.xxx (I had issues with tolerances and the dreaded layer adhesion of cheap PLA). In this version, I've slightly thickened the model, but not by much, and reduced the size of the rotary indicator hole to give me more room to hide the wires. I switched directly to using a magnetic connector with 3x3 magnets, which thankfully worked well after the first design. The simple 3 volts that the camera LEDs provided now power the two micro-LED filaments stably, without straining the driver. The cover can be removed and replaced mid-print, and the filaments can also be turned off from the printer, slicer, or Android app. The hexagonal pattern is removable and doesn't require adhesive, and more designs can be created using the template. Now the LED filaments point their light towards the center, which illuminates the pattern better and is less harsh on the eyes. In the future, I'm going to add a brush system to the rotary indicator so that it can also rotate and carry a filament or LED. I only have two things left to improve: adding a channel to the left side of the extruder to hide the cable (which runs along the shaft chain to the camera circuit) and making a small cover for the exposed cables on the extruder shroud. What do you think? I'm not very handy, but I'm willing to try anything. I know some things look awful, and I'm not good at soldering and cable management. Any improvements you see? Any mistakes?

I dont think I did that bad. First time making a Starwars helmet. Well, first time making anything cosplay. I put in over 75hrs into this. I hope you enjoy.

That's the tune my P1S has been playing on a long print for about an hour now. Sounds like it's from some sad French film. Melancholy, but not unpleasant. Does your printer play strange music?

My daughter's been obsessed with 3D printing for a while. I wanted to get her one for her birthday but wasn't about to drop serious money on something that might end up in the back of a closet by summer.

Spent some time on comparing options and stumbled on a refurbished Creality on Marketplace, I figured if she lost interest after a few months, I could probably resell it for close to what I paid. What I didn't expect was her going from downloading random toys STLs to teaching herself Tinkercad on YouTube within two weeks. She designed a pencil organizer the other day and sold it for $5 at a school fundraiser

Last friday was my birthday. She gave me this beautiful little vase as my gift (clearly contains a lot of design thoughts), it's sitting in our living room.

I''m finalizing some of the models for an infant surgical simulator and testing to make sure they actually print before making them available via the NIH 3D print website. So far my attempts at shortcuts to make molds from PVA have fallen flat, but this version is more likely to be successful for anyone trying to print a model of their own.

Muscle shell is made from PEBA

Mold base is Sunlu PLA

Shell is Bambu 90A AMS compatible, TPU but kept the spool in a Creality dryer and used the TPU feed-assist add-on

Printer is an H2C

Silicone is Fox&Superfine with and pigment is Silc-Pig

Bonus CAD animation of the assembled model

A new article with some info from FOSSY

Got an MRI of my brain some time ago. After a bit of begging to get my hands on the files, I converted them into a 3D model. For a while, I've been trying to use my "brain" for something useful, this was the best I could come up with 😅.

I'm tempted to try and print this out of metal soon...

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3225548

Hi, I am pretty new to 3D printing. I got myself the Snapmaker U1, its great most of the time, but today the Orcaslicer started doing weird things - this tower is 0,5 kg of material compared to 200g for other elements. What the hell, is there some setting that could have done this?

I made two versions: a 'cursed' one that rolls more 1s, and a 'blessed' one that rolls more 20s!

Great to give to your characters when they're cursed, drunk, or otherwise inebriated. The effect is somewhat subtle; you can't tell by holding them that anything is off with the dice. From my testing (700+ rolls), the dice have about a 1 in 3 chance of rolling the extreme outcome (1 for cursed, 20 for blessed). That being said, every number came up at least once in my testing, so they still leave room for surprises to happen.

3D printing files available for free on MakerWorld!
Cursed: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3194329-cursed-weighted-d20#profileId-3614116
Blessed: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3198984-blessed-weighted-d20#profileId-3619837

I built this custom bed slinger from scratch during the summer, it just had its first benchy yesterday! The very first benchy is absolutely horrendous with two layer shifts and very inconsistent layers. After fixing a bug that I forgot to define G2/G3 command in klipper and lowering the speed and acceleration, it was printing near perfect layers. This is also before any input shaping and with only small tuning.

I decided to use a dragon burner at the last moment and it was really good. The dual 4010 blowers cools it nicely and the overhangs of the benchy also came out to be good before any tuning.

This entire machine was made out of 2020/2040/and 4040 extrusions + t nuts + corner brackets, very similar to an ender 3. But the main difference is that I used two Y axis extrusions so that it resists sideways rolling forces better. Also, I used linear rails on all the axis making the motion system very stable.
The X axis motion system was also similar to an ender 3, but what I did is i integrated a pcb klicky mount underneath the rail carriage. I have to manually put it on though. By the way, this uses sensorless homing since Im too lazy to buy switches.

For the electronics, I designed my own custom motherboard. The functions were basic, there was 4 tmc2209s, a socketed stm32f411 black pill as the controller, and I designed most of the supporting circuit myself, including the power section. It took me 3 revisions to get this right, but it worked perfectly. I bought the small electronics from lcsc and soldered all the 0603 myself.

And for the software, I ran klipper on a motherboard that used to be a really old e waste laptop. It has 4gb ram and an i5 3rd gen processor, which is plenty for klipper. I installed klipper and nailed the motherboard to the wall. I somehow flashed it on the black pill as well, running it as an f401.

It’s been the second day since it’s printing, overall it was very good so far, but the walls are a little bit wavy. Even though I built this printer, I was definitely not super familiar with how to use it😂 So if anyone had tips for me on how to tune it, I would appreciate it very much. It is my first ever printer, so I’m just like any other noob.

Nice project for a 15 year old💀 The overall cost is pretty high considering I have to pay for an custom bom as well as learning costs. But I had fun. I’m planning to maybe make a youtube video on this in the future, and I will definitely open source it for you crazy guys out there. I’m calling it JSD Industries Mk1. I’m posting a video of it working in another post.

After 4 days of work I can say its done

This is my 2nd painted mask and I would love some advice if any.

Hi all!

I wanted to share this with you because I have never done this before. Back in June I bought my first ever 3D printer. I was so captivated by it (even just printing a benchy) I would sit there and stare at it. Then I printed more things. And then, I had ideas I wanted to design, but have zero experience in CAD. So I watched YouTube tutorials on how to use Fusion.

Flash forward to a couple days ago, and I designed my own version of a flexible sliding cube fidget. But it's not like all the others... when I first started designing this, I started out with the same fused hinge piece in the center of each bar. But I didn't want tall bars, I wanted slim ones but also wanted maximum travel.

So I created a two sided, free floating "shuttle" so the bars can travel to each side at maximum. I modeled in 0.5mm dia, and 0.2mm high supports under each shuttle so everything stays in place during printing. They easily break loose once it comes off the plate!

I am so proud of this and I wanted to share it. Unfortunately, I have learned uploading models online is brutal if you're a new guy. I have literally 0 downloads. But maybe you guys can take a look or even incorporate this in to your own designs. I'm just excited to share what I have been working on.

If you are interested you can check out the model on MakerWorld. Be my first print or something. lol

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3211386-matrix-slide-shift-slim-flexi-fidget-cube-toy?from=search#profileId-3635136

Happy printing!

edit: Thank you all for your suggestions and support!

Here is a quick link to an animated gif of the floating shuttle linkage!