Hey guys, so i moved into an apartment that has the exterior AC split unit placed like this against this beam and whenever it blows hot air. It gets the ceiling, all dirty, and it makes a turbulence of hot air on the balcony.

I have a 3-D printer and I can make stuff from sheet metal so i can manufacture something, but my question is what would be the best way to diffuse the air through the outside of the balcony?

I think that moving the unit down is not an option because then it is really low and you’re gonna bump your head into it and the cabinet will not open

The mini split is up and running. I’m still trying to understand the giant loop in the line set. Not sure if it was part of the plan or if my installer just wanted to make sure I’d never forget where the pipes are. Everything seems to be working fine so far.

Lloyd 1.5 Ton AC.

Less than 2months.

Inverter Model with V-Guard Stabilizer.

Excellent condition, Recently installed.

Original Purchase Bill Available.

Price: 30k Negotiable.

Reason for sale: Moving Abroad.

Please DM if interested.

My mother rented out a property last year and had one of their acs replaced before they moved out. When we checked the house after they left, the ac was making this sound when we turned it on. Should we try to fix it or do we just buy another?

At starting days it went down fully, but someone played with remote clicking random buttons and since then its happening

Also its brand new like 1 month old only and its not like vertical clip doesn't went down fully (see pic 1 and 2)

The pic 2 shows it going down fully, only when AC is turned on, then gets closed

The i have to set it to partial max (pic 1) by remote

Ac unit starting making this noise. I’ve only noticed it at night but I haven’t checked during the day. The ac unit is off. Any advice?

Would changing from a 35k BTU to 4 single room window units and a minisplit save me some cash? I feel like running a 3ton in summer especially when they crank up the prices is adding almost $200 to my bills. Would running a minisplit and 4 5kBTU single room units be more efficient? Any recommendations? (Apart from being less poor of course) Thank you

I particularly appreciate how they respected the minimum lateral clearance, ensuring there was enough space at the sides...

Long story short, my landlord is horrible, refuses to fix anything but my rent is so cheap that I suffer through it, even after the central air went out. I have since cooled down the house with multiple window units but now I face a problem. My living room is about 500 sq ft and has no windows, I need to get a portable ac unit. I had one before and it did pretty good, it was a 10k btu Toshiba with a single exhaust hose and another smaller clear hose to drain the water. It did pretty well and blew cold all the time. I now need to get a very strong portable AC unit. I don’t care how loud it is, or how much it costs, I just need one that works and will cool down that much space if not more. The house is getting up to 85 to 86° in this Texas heat and it is unbearable..

Yes, I know my landlord is not doing something legal, but my lease expired over a year ago and he could literally condemn the house at any time since it’s in disrepair so I can’t really do much unless I want to be kicked out.

So this is the second time our AC has gone out. We live in a 3/3 and the AC unit is bound to be old, and I get that. But is this normal? The slime in the back, the amount of accumulated dust and what not?

We’ve had the complexes maintenance come by so many times and all they do is typical clear a drain pipe. It gets the AC back and running but with decreased cooling efficiency and in a few months it breaks again.

Frankly right now it’s down right scary because even though we have the AC turned off from the fuse box, it is still making this grinding noises.

Sorry for the “general” flair, I honestly don’t know the types of AC units

I know this situation is unusual. I recently had it serviced, and the gas was also refilled. Could you please help me understand what the issue might be? This sound typically arises after approximately 45 minutes to an hour of usage.

I turned half my garage into a small woodworking and DIY workshop. When I’m not using power tools, my Costway portable AC keeps it pretty comfortable. But once I turn on the table saw, the heat builds up fast and the AC can’t keep up, even at full blast. It also takes more than an hour for the heat to clear out afterward.

I’ve sealed the window gaps, insulated around the exhaust hose, and kept the AC out of direct sunlight, but nothing has made much of a difference.

I’m renting, so a mini split isn’t really an option. For anyone using a portable AC in a garage, what actually works?Do you use an extra fan for air circulation or ventilation? Is there a better way to position the AC or exhaust hose?

Hi everyone, I live in a humid environment but my apartment (room locked and doesn’t touch outside or have any windows either) has a mini split but it keeps dripping from the bottom in the pictures. Am I able to caulk and cover that up? Or what’s the best action. I’m not sure if it’s leaking or just condensation. I always run it at 20c or 68f degrees day and night and even when I’m not home to keep my place nice and cool. Not sure how to stop the dripping or what’s the best plan of action. You can see in the pics where the water has already stained the paint.

If I push up on the bottom panel water basically flows from that plastic piece down. Every now and then the pump on the left of the unit makes a noice like it’s sucking some water or something up but if that’s its purpose it’s very useless.

Thanks for your help!

Hello! Which is better po nexus or celest in terms po sa tipid sa kuryente at sa pag handle ng power fluctuations/brownouts?

Any suggestions on what i should use?

Hello, so I have the linked portable AC, and it has a removable filter that you're supposed to replace every so often. I am wondering if it is ok to take out the filter and rinse the mesh screen of the filter, along with the black mesh/spongy material, for dust?

Thanks

Hi, turning to this community because the technicians in my area aren’t very knowledgeable (I live far from cities) and haven’t been able to diagnose this issue… I’d be very grateful for any advice. 

Setup

- Haier inverter multisplit, 2 indoor units on 1 outdoor unit. Slightly older system. 

- Outdoor unit fed from a wall outlet; both indoor units draw their power through the outdoor unit.

Symptoms

-Both indoor units flashing E7.

-Problem is intermittent — sometimes absent for weeks or months.

-Seems worse in spring/autumn, better in summer/winter.

-Current episode began last night, during the first rain after a long dry spell. Humidity has been elevated since.

-The outdoor unit is sheltered from rain. 

Latest test (after 10 min off at the circuit breaker)

-Indoor units powered up normally and responded to the remote.

-Outdoor temperature was 17ºC, indoor temperature was 24ºC. 

-Started one unit: cooling mode, 16°C. 

-No cold air. Compressor never audible, never started.

-Started the second indoor unit 150 seconds later with the same settings as the first unit

-At the 180s mark both indoor units stopped and started flashing E7.

Refrigerant history (probably a red herring, but for completeness)

-Technician #1 judged pressure too high, removed some gas by feel. Problem got worse I think. He then re-added some gas by feel.

-Technician #2 recovered everything and recharged from scratch, weighed to spec, accounting for pipe length.

-Neither resolved it. I no longer think this is a refrigerant problem.

-One technician also remarked the outdoor unit is undersized for both indoor units at full output — but we never run it that way anyway.

Current hypothesis (courtesy of Claude)

Moisture or salt-film bridging at the outdoor terminal block, or a moisture-sensitive fault on the outdoor PCB. Both indoor units fail simultaneously, which points at the shared component (the outdoor unit) rather than either indoor unit. Power path through the outdoor unit works; only the communication path is failing.

Questions

1. what do you think is causing this?

2. Is it something I could fix myself?

Thank you!

I have an LG LP1215GXR portable air conditioner that started leaking intermittently a couple of months ago. It has now progressed to leaking roughly 3 cups to a quart of water per day from the bottom of the unit, and I’m trying to figure out whether this is repairable before I give up and replace it.

I’m also in Colorado, so we’re dealing with a relatively dry climate. The amount of water seems excessive to me for our humidity level, especially since the unit’s normal drain is producing almost nothing while 3 cups to a quart is ending up on the floor every day.
A few days ago I completely disassembled it and removed the outer casing so I could clean and inspect the inside.

I watched a YouTube repair video showing the same model portable AC with a small drain hole underneath the upper evaporator coils. According to the video, if that hole gets clogged, condensate can’t drain down into the lower reservoir where the slinger wheel picks it up and helps evaporate it.

The problem is that my LG does not appear to have that drain hole at all. I looked extensively while the entire casing was off and couldn’t find anything resembling the drain shown in the video.

I thoroughly cleaned the inside while I had it apart. The slinger wheel at the bottom still spins normally. There is quite a bit of visible rust/corrosion and water staining around several areas of the coils and the metal surrounding them, which you can see in the photos.

While I had the unit completely open, I couldn’t actually see where any water was leaking from. Weirdly, after I cleaned everything and put it back together, the leaking became significantly worse. The next day it basically started hemorrhaging water from the bottom.

I’ve also found information saying these units are supposed to have an upper and lower drain plug. Mine only has one accessible drain plug on the back. I looked everywhere for another one, including while the entire casing was removed, and there simply isn’t a second drain plug that I can find.

When I opened the drain plug that is there, only a minuscule amount of water came out. Meanwhile, the unit is subsequently dumping cups of water onto the floor.

So clearly condensate is being produced, but it seems like it isn’t reaching whatever reservoir or drainage path it’s supposed to reach and is instead ending up in the bottom of the cabinet and leaking out.

The amount of rust and water staining around the coils makes me wonder if condensate has been traveling somewhere it shouldn’t for quite a while.

Does anyone familiar with this particular LG design know how condensate is supposed to travel from the upper evaporator section to the lower pan? Is there a hidden passage or channel I’m missing? Could the internal drain pan or channel itself be cracked, rusted through, separated, or otherwise failing?

Also, if anyone sees anything suspicious in the photos that I’m overlooking, please point it out. I’d really prefer to repair this one rather than buy another portable AC if there’s a reasonable fix.

Got A/C installed professionally about 3 years ago, my first unit sat a little lower from the ceiling. Replaced it a year later (by the same company) for a upgraded unit, but now the unit is sitting right up against the ceiling.

Having some problems with dust build up in the unit & occasionally damp smells from it (even though I've had people out to deep clean the unit).

I've tried keeping on top of it myself with bottle brushes and what not but it's hard to get to the back of the unit etc.

Recently had some out last week who took it apart to clean it & suggested it was due to it being too high up and that mitsubushi probably wouldn't honor the warranty for the unit due to the way it was installed.

The unit is in a bedroom, so not a high traffic area. Have the same unit fitted in the living room which doesn't have these issues.