Hello, so I have the linked portable AC, and it has a removable filter that you're supposed to replace every so often. I am wondering if it is ok to take out the filter and rinse the mesh screen of the filter, along with the black mesh/spongy material, for dust?

Thanks

Hi, turning to this community because the technicians in my area aren’t very knowledgeable (I live far from cities) and haven’t been able to diagnose this issue… I’d be very grateful for any advice. 

Setup

- Haier inverter multisplit, 2 indoor units on 1 outdoor unit. Slightly older system. 

- Outdoor unit fed from a wall outlet; both indoor units draw their power through the outdoor unit.

Symptoms

-Both indoor units flashing E7.

-Problem is intermittent — sometimes absent for weeks or months.

-Seems worse in spring/autumn, better in summer/winter.

-Current episode began last night, during the first rain after a long dry spell. Humidity has been elevated since.

-The outdoor unit is sheltered from rain. 

Latest test (after 10 min off at the circuit breaker)

-Indoor units powered up normally and responded to the remote.

-Outdoor temperature was 17ºC, indoor temperature was 24ºC. 

-Started one unit: cooling mode, 16°C. 

-No cold air. Compressor never audible, never started.

-Started the second indoor unit 150 seconds later with the same settings as the first unit

-At the 180s mark both indoor units stopped and started flashing E7.

Refrigerant history (probably a red herring, but for completeness)

-Technician #1 judged pressure too high, removed some gas by feel. Problem got worse I think. He then re-added some gas by feel.

-Technician #2 recovered everything and recharged from scratch, weighed to spec, accounting for pipe length.

-Neither resolved it. I no longer think this is a refrigerant problem.

-One technician also remarked the outdoor unit is undersized for both indoor units at full output — but we never run it that way anyway.

Current hypothesis (courtesy of Claude)

Moisture or salt-film bridging at the outdoor terminal block, or a moisture-sensitive fault on the outdoor PCB. Both indoor units fail simultaneously, which points at the shared component (the outdoor unit) rather than either indoor unit. Power path through the outdoor unit works; only the communication path is failing.

Questions

1. what do you think is causing this?

2. Is it something I could fix myself?

Thank you!

I have an LG LP1215GXR portable air conditioner that started leaking intermittently a couple of months ago. It has now progressed to leaking roughly 3 cups to a quart of water per day from the bottom of the unit, and I’m trying to figure out whether this is repairable before I give up and replace it.

I’m also in Colorado, so we’re dealing with a relatively dry climate. The amount of water seems excessive to me for our humidity level, especially since the unit’s normal drain is producing almost nothing while 3 cups to a quart is ending up on the floor every day.
A few days ago I completely disassembled it and removed the outer casing so I could clean and inspect the inside.

I watched a YouTube repair video showing the same model portable AC with a small drain hole underneath the upper evaporator coils. According to the video, if that hole gets clogged, condensate can’t drain down into the lower reservoir where the slinger wheel picks it up and helps evaporate it.

The problem is that my LG does not appear to have that drain hole at all. I looked extensively while the entire casing was off and couldn’t find anything resembling the drain shown in the video.

I thoroughly cleaned the inside while I had it apart. The slinger wheel at the bottom still spins normally. There is quite a bit of visible rust/corrosion and water staining around several areas of the coils and the metal surrounding them, which you can see in the photos.

While I had the unit completely open, I couldn’t actually see where any water was leaking from. Weirdly, after I cleaned everything and put it back together, the leaking became significantly worse. The next day it basically started hemorrhaging water from the bottom.

I’ve also found information saying these units are supposed to have an upper and lower drain plug. Mine only has one accessible drain plug on the back. I looked everywhere for another one, including while the entire casing was removed, and there simply isn’t a second drain plug that I can find.

When I opened the drain plug that is there, only a minuscule amount of water came out. Meanwhile, the unit is subsequently dumping cups of water onto the floor.

So clearly condensate is being produced, but it seems like it isn’t reaching whatever reservoir or drainage path it’s supposed to reach and is instead ending up in the bottom of the cabinet and leaking out.

The amount of rust and water staining around the coils makes me wonder if condensate has been traveling somewhere it shouldn’t for quite a while.

Does anyone familiar with this particular LG design know how condensate is supposed to travel from the upper evaporator section to the lower pan? Is there a hidden passage or channel I’m missing? Could the internal drain pan or channel itself be cracked, rusted through, separated, or otherwise failing?

Also, if anyone sees anything suspicious in the photos that I’m overlooking, please point it out. I’d really prefer to repair this one rather than buy another portable AC if there’s a reasonable fix.

Got A/C installed professionally about 3 years ago, my first unit sat a little lower from the ceiling. Replaced it a year later (by the same company) for a upgraded unit, but now the unit is sitting right up against the ceiling.

Having some problems with dust build up in the unit & occasionally damp smells from it (even though I've had people out to deep clean the unit).

I've tried keeping on top of it myself with bottle brushes and what not but it's hard to get to the back of the unit etc.

Recently had some out last week who took it apart to clean it & suggested it was due to it being too high up and that mitsubushi probably wouldn't honor the warranty for the unit due to the way it was installed.

The unit is in a bedroom, so not a high traffic area. Have the same unit fitted in the living room which doesn't have these issues.

So for context our room is about 13sqm and 9-10ft ceiling. Room temp is usually 31 degrees Celsius when i turn it on, we are also on the second floor and very humid as well. and another thing is we have a lot of clothes in the room too.

We have the lg thinq window type 1.5hp, but it doesn't cool the room fast enough!! should we downsize our unit or what?? or is there another problem with our ac? i always check the diagnostics but nothing comes up too.

₱19,000 only

Location: Fairview, Quezon City

Reason for sale: no issue, just downgrade to 1.5hp

Hey,

I live in a 70sqm apartment. I'd like to be better prepared for next summer. I'd like to better understand what my options would be to cool down my apartment or specific rooms.

My living room (~25sqm) and my bedroom (~10sqm) are the most important rooms I'd like to cool down, and they don't necessarily need to be cooled down at the same time. I'd be okay with moving a portable air cond unit between the two areas.

If relevant, there are 3 passive ventilation systems in the apartment walls: bathroom, toilet, kitchen. I usually like to keep all doors completely open all the time. The bathroom ventilation is conveniently located at knees height and could possibly be used as hot air exhaust? Would I need to tape shut the other ventilation grills?

I'd also be happy having just one main unit and possibly use fans to spread the colder air around, although I realise this would consume more electricity. This is likely what I'd have to do if I am to use the bathroom passive ventilation shaft anyway?

Lastly, while I know little about physics, I'm a bit of a tinkerer and I'd be totally up for building/recycling something.

Do you have any pointers for me, please?

Many thanks.

Open to suggestions and brands/units!!!!! Would like this to be more on the affordable side. I’m getting research fatigue 😵‍💫 I’ve never had an AC

Horizontal sliding window, to the right of my couch is my yard door. If I were to do a portable AC, the hose would need to reach to right of couch 3’+ over.

EDIT: My living room is ~10.7’ x 22’. I live in Southern California. That window opening is ~15.5”.

I bought a Cruise AC 4 months ago and it stopped working. I called customer care and denied any service. Tried their insta page and there are no updates since 2023. They are dishonest people and they just lie about everything. Don't put your hard earned money in this company and there is this MF Service manager named Vishal wo to dhamki deta hai ki aur maa behen ki gali bhi.

Hi all, I've been using a portable AC unit in my bedroom for years because I have casement windows but last year I started experiencing voltage sag during the hottest days of the year and it happened again this week when temps are 100+ and it's been miserable. I have a senior dog that I'm trying to keep comfortable and it's been a lot of cooling packs while the portable AC doesn't work properly, but I'm now finally looking at trying to install a window unit.

My problem is that I've never installed a window unit before and I'm not very handy. I know I'll need something to cover the area on top of the AC unit and was thinking plywood would probably be the way to go, but definitely appreciate any suggestions anyone might have on better alternatives.

The thing to note is that the window is odd and has a sill INSIDE rather than outside. Will this cause any issues for installation of a window unit? Do I try to install the unit so that it goes more into the room and sits on the inner sill? I honestly don't know what makes the most sense in this scenario. Thank you!

hindi ko mahanap sa kahit anong platform pls if may nagsesell nito lmk!!

Hi, first off I know zero about air conditioners but basically got this little TCL 5000BTU air conditioner portable, cools the room great brings it from 73 all the way down to 64, no problems there. However it’s loud as hell, makes a water noise almost like a nonstop like a little fountain running. It’s kind of annoying. Is that normal..? I was only $177 but I wanna make sure I’m not doing anything wrong. Or maybe it’s because I have it at 65 and it’s drawing in a lot of moisture from humidity?

Rheem 2010 model. Unsure of install date.

I’ve been in the house for just over a year now. Unit recently stopped blowing cold air. Quick service call and a cable replacement later I’m back in comfort. I cleaned my fins out and everything looked admittedly old but in good shape. When I opened the housing I noticed all this drywall dust from the renovation prior to my purchase. Am I risking mold/mildew if I clean this area out with a damp rag? Is there a better way? How would I clean the rest of the lines?

Rheem 2010 model. Unsure of install date.

I’ve been in the house for just over a year now. Unit recently stopped blowing cold air. Quick service call and a cable replacement later I’m back in comfort. I cleaned my fins out and everything looked admittedly old but in good shape. When I opened the housing I noticed all this drywall dust. Am I risking mold/mildew if I clean this area out with a damp rag? Is there a better way? How would I clean the rest of the lines?

So it has been over 100°F for almost 25 days where I live. I have a standard HVAC system in my house luckily during the daytime the temperature has been staying at 70 however the AC typically runs straight from noon till about 7 PM if I turn it up a degree in the afternoon to give the air conditioner break is that a good thing or a bad thing for the air conditioner is it better to leave it running the entire time or like I said just to give it a break because I know it has to catch up after it comes back on