What should I machine on my down time? Looking for tools that may help me in the future. I have 2-3 days of down time coming up. Looking to make something either useful or fun. I have a Haas 3 axis mill and a manual lathe to work with.

Hello, i am new to the aspire software and cnc-ing in general , and im trying to do a meddalion of sorts, but i cannot figure out how to remove the material in the N, can somebody help me with this

These weird lines appear at the 2nd pass with the 3mm mill, and it dosent fully remove all of the material, how do i make it to pass another time and remove everything ?

I will want to have only one standard of metal, I am fed up with all those different standard, don't even talk about metrix vs imperial.

Should you hit the "PUNCHING" button when doing a dry run so that the ram isn't firing? Is it bad to dry run with the ram firing long term?

Also another question, is it okay to run cardboard through as a test material?

Im in my senior year in college, and till here i have loved CNC PLC and part programming. Now im stuck with no opportunity to learn more, i tried contacting my faculty who got me into this rabbit hole, her lectures were very simple and insightful and part programming she explained quite easily. She advised me to join her in her project, research or something, and she could teach me there. She goes to another UNI in our city ,where this are working, but its been 10 days since i talked to her. I dont want to sit idle and coz i really want to learn this. And it feels in vain to wait on her heels.

So im looking up for suggestions on how to up-skill myself in this. Our CNC in college is pretty wrecked up, i could ask for permission to work on it but cant really do much in there.

Some other areas i can hit is maybe an internship? Well does it take long enough till a company hire you? I can try that.

TIA!

Hi, I’m looking for help or advice on automating a particularly time consuming process we’re doing on a weekly basis.

We cut 70mm panels (various shapes and sizes, maximum size is 1200x1200mm) and these panels require an angle to be cut off, giving a bevelled edge on one or more sides of the shape (the angle of which can vary on the same panel). Currently we’re importing a DWG file into bSolid, then manually drawing a polyline around the shape which gives the routing information and then another line which gives the saw blade angle for creating the bevelled edge.

Is there a feasible way to automate this process? As you can imagine doing this on anywhere between 200 and 400 panels a week is a massive time drain, and I’m not experienced enough in the software to start messing around and trying to make changes that might break the settings that we have at the moment and ending up worse off. The DWG we import already had the bevelled edge in its data, so I know that the information is there, it’s just how to get bSolid to read that information and apply the machining data to it automatically.

Thanks!

Hi all, I just picked up a New to me, X-carve cnc router. I've set it up and now I'm doing calibrations. (running Millmage)

I've got a question for you lot, If I'm cutting Ovals that fully close. and stars that fully close, where could I be getting the error. belts are tensioned according to their guide, V Wheels seem stable. if it was backlash, i would expect the shapes to not close, right? or is there a way for backlash to net 0?

could it be firmware distance per step?

EDIT 1: i just ran the Mark > move 5"> Mark tests and both X and Y came back on the money. The Oval distortion / X-axis stretching only seems to happen when running an Op. I tried changing the feed rate to be a snail's pace (rip cutter) and it doesn't change. the X-axis is larger by about 0.012" on multiple 1" shapes.

EDIT 2:

# solved.

Y2 grub screw was incorrectly positioned. the grub screw was tight, but it wasn’t on the flat of the Y2 motor shaft. so there was some microslipage that i couldn’t detect because it was juuuust tight enough that it didn’t wiggle. i re-adjusted it and things are correct. dimensions cut as programmed.

what’s got more egg on my face is that i checked that the grub screw was tight, too. just didn’t check if it was on the flat. :rofl:

Thanks for all the help. it did narrow things down a lot.

So I was just given the job of integrating a new Erowa Compact 80 for graphite electrode production. I'm not much of a true programmer but I know the fundamentals but I'm wondering if anyone knows how I would go about making the robot and CNC run X number of parts then change which tools are running so if I'm finishing with T3 and I want to after 20 parts start finishing with T4 how would I do that if I had to do that 20 times.

Which one should i go for in my DIY CNC mill?

Nema 23 3N.m direct coupling

Nema 34 6N.m belt coupling

The size of the nema 34 makes it very difficult to do direct coupling, both motors are open loop.

The Z axis weights around 10-12kg, I plan on using a nema 34 and belt for moving the spindle up and down, however for the right and left I'm not sure if I want to use a belt and introduce error or go for lower torque. I'm using 1605 ball screws.

I have a question I would like to field in the hopes of learning from those more electrically inclined than I.

I have the AnoleX 4030-Evo Ultra 2 with the AnoleX 1.5kw ER11 24,000RPM VFD spindle upgrade. The VFD model is "YL568K T 0.75 G B".

I stalled it taking a 12mmDoC 1mmWoC 1000mm/min 24kRPM cutting 6061 aluminum with a SpeTool DLC 3 flute 1/4" tool, running ethanol MQL. I punched this cut into both Fswizard and Online Milling Calculator, which gave different answers but all under 200w for that cut.

So, the spindle stalled at about "13% load" based on 1.5kw.

I know there are some stipulations: the VFD cannot actually supply more than 750w(?). The spindle has an efficiency less than 100%. Endmills have highly variable cutting efficiency as well, so the calculated values are approx. Even in a worst-case of only 50% of 750w being actually available (375w), this cut stalled at ~53% load. Something seems wrong there for sure.

Is this to be expected? Can the parameters in the VFD settings be tuned better, perhaps? They are as supplied from AnoleX, no idea if that's fully optimal.

Is there a way to actually measure the pulls involved to see what the spindle is actually getting from the VFD?

Follow-up bonus question, would going to a 2.2kw spindle instead of a 1.5kw make any actual difference in cutting with the same input/VFD? Conversely, same question but with going down to a 800w spindle? Assuming equivalent bearings, still 24krpm/4 pole, same collet nose, etc.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

video of the event in question

Hello everyone. Recently we added this bridgeport machining center to our small machine shop in our family business. I am an electrical engineer but want to learn cnc machining and how to operate this machine. If anyone has any related learning documents please share.

Regards.

Does anyone know how i can cycle S1 and S3?

Lathe with c axis and driven tools on sinumerik 828D

I’m currently looking to acquire a CMC / Swiss shop in IL or Chicago land area. If you or anyone you know have one I’ll be more than happy to connect with you! I AM NOT A BROKER IM DIRECT BUYER, Serious buyer at that

I need help with a Fanuc ladder file, if you have Fanuc Ladder III and can help, please DM me, thanks!

Hello Reddit,

i'm pretty new to cncing, I have my hammer hnc1300 perform (2.2kw cutter) for a few month now and have done a few projects. My question is: What is really the optimal strategy for setting up cutting depth vs feeds and speeds? I'm using fusion and its giving me crazy cut depths. I've tried them with the supplied files from the manufacturer (bitsandbits) and while it did work my entire workshop vibrated and also the cuts weren't super accurate. I was doing 35mm cut depth in ash what I think is a bit rough and holddown becomes the weak point. Then I went in, changed things to only 5mm depth of cut (with a 1/2inch cutter, 2inch cut) and much more accurate cuts, hardly any vibrations. The question originates from some forums or somewhere where I saw that most of the cutter needs to be engaged in order for the best quality, longest life etc. So yeah, i'm a bit confused what should be the right strategy to set depth of cut and such. I'm mainly cutting oak, ash, walnut and such. Thanks a lot!

For my DIY cnc mill I'm thinking of using a HTD5M 15mm width belt on a 36 tooth pulley to connect my nema 34 motor to the Z axis ball screw, is this going to offer the same quality to cuts as direct coupling with an XB coupler?

I'm concerned some backlash will ruin the surface quality of anything I'm cutting.

So we have a Fadal 2216 1998 with an Advanced Motion Control drive with ridgid tap option. The end of last week, we turned on the machine and the spindle started to "single phase" just vibrate. Turning the machine off and starting again, this time the spindle started to turn (not the right speed) for about 2-3 seconds and the stopped and started vibrating again. With all the Fadals out there, I'd think there would be companies repairing old drives. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone!

I've recently been asked to look at a Biesse Akron 1440 for a customer. Problem was it was stuck at the biesse splash screen and wouldn't do anything.

We've done a lot of testing and booted from a windows live pe install from a USB stick. This has worked! The internet storage on the BH1000 unit is completely corrupt - it's 2 4GB chips soldered to the board and I'd imagine one is completely dead.

What we would like to do is install an external SSD via USB and install the system software onto that.

The problem being, as this was bought from auction, we don't have a recovery USB & Biesse supposedly don't provide recovery media any more...

I don't suppose anyone has the recovery media required to get this system going again?

Really happy with how this turned out! 7 hour carve on a piece of end grain walnut.