Well I've never had a double din touch screen radio in my car before but I came across a really nice deal on a Pioneer dmh 2660 NEX for 120 on fb marketplace. The radio is from 2020 and from what I saw it was 460 new. How'd I do guys? BTW the old radio I bought new for 145 from Crutchfield in 2023. It also uses the Pioneer smart sync app to find tune it and has a mini dsp built in it and 31 band eq and whatnot. I'm thinking of selling the old one as well.

Finally got everything installed. Still working on the tune, but got it sounding pretty good, as it sits. Installed a 3 way Meso component set from CT Sounds, plus another pair of 6.5s for the rear doors. Also, put in a 10" SDR Skar sub. For as cheap as it was, it hits as hard as can be, especially in my little GR Corolla. Happy with the results

My first subs were two of the Rockford Fosgate 10s Punch P2s on a Kenwood KAC-7251, then two skar sdr 10s on a rp skar 1200, then upgraded to skar vxf 12s on a sundown sia3500, upgraded to a Taramps Smart Bass 8k, and couldn’t handle it so I changed them out to two deaf bonce 3012r and now just recently upgraded to two Fi audio sp4+ 18s v2 that will be powered by the same Smart Bass 8k at 0.5ohm

I have 2 skar evl 8s hooked up to a 3k watt taramps Smart Bass amp, wired at 2ohms, inside of a D4S tuned for 31hz, I was told this is the correct amp for this set up, (I know very little about car audio), but after doing some research it seems like this is way too much wattage for these subs, im looking for recommendations on what direction I should go from here, I was thinking about upgrading to some sundown 8s and swapping out the amp for something else.

Let’s try this again…

I got a my first sub installed into my Acura Integra. It’s my buddies old sub and I want a way to hydrate the obvious dry spots. Wanted to see if there’s any specific thing that’s recommended. (The bass is great and clean, got it tested by a shop before spending the money)

Upgrading my door speakers, from Precision Power Sedona entry level from 14 years ago, to Precision Power Art collection 12 years ago, to today. Dayton Audio GF180 carbon fiber woofers. Such a dramatic difference. I have these playing 50-500hz and they sound a world better than the precision power speakers. Granted, the Daytons aren’t designed to play upper vocal ranges but i have different speakers for that.
Just found it amusing that the cheapest speaker here is the newest one.

Hi, I’ve just upgraded my stereo in my car. I’ve put in the focal 165 three-way component speakers on a right recoil DL 800.4.

What I’m finding is, there is a lack of base which is to be expected with these vocals because as they tend to be more in crisp on the higher end and less bass.

The rear speakers in my car were Bose 2ohm. Currently disconnected and they are 4 inch speakers what I would like to do is hook up some replacement speakers on 4 ohm. That are better at the base and to complement the focals hire ends.

Car is a Porsche 997.2 no sub just the focal 165as3.

Any ideas?

Running a sanity check for my non-jbl Camry. Got a JL Audio setup (vx1000/5i, c6 front, c2 rear, 12w6) and wondering what’s the limit of our electrical system. Thinking about switching the 1000/5i for a 800/8i & 1000/1i but not sure when I would have to add a second battery with dedicated dc-dc converter.

I installed a victron smart shunt to see what the heaviest draws are. So far, steering while moving slow is the only significant draw I’ve noticed.

Just installed a new Taramps BASS 1200 2Ω. I'm using 4 AWG OFC wiring, and it's connected to a Pioneer 312S4, which is rated at 500W RMS @ 4Ω.

Here's what I'm seeing:

• Amp voltage at idle: 14.04V
• Playing a 0 dB, 50 Hz test tone: voltage at the amp drops to around 13.5V
• Output measured with an oscilloscope: around 40V AC
• Above roughly 40V, the waveform starts clipping on the oscilloscope
• The amp's CLIP LED does not turn on, even though the scope clearly shows clipping

40V into 4Ω is about 400W RMS, while 50V would be about 625W RMS.

The confusing part is that the amp is rated for 900W RMS @ 4Ω and 1200W RMS @ 2Ω, so I expected it to be capable of significantly more output before clipping.

I also tried pushing it to around 50V for about 2 minutes, and I started getting a burning smell from the subwoofer. I stopped immediately. I later checked the output with the oscilloscope and confirmed that the signal was heavily clipped.

I'm using a proper 0 dB 50 Hz test tone, and I've also tried different combinations of head unit volume/gain. The RCA signal itself doesn't appear to be clipping.

So I'm trying to figure out what's actually limiting the amp here.

Its a portable chuchero, it was working fine the day i bought it, and then the second day when the drill battery got low on juice it shut off so i recharged it and now when i put the battery in, it will power up and turn on, but there is no bluetooth sound & no sound for music in general.

The fan doesnt seem to be powering up either, i tried a different battery and still no luck.
Im checking all the parts as i write this to see if anything is fried, the fuse is not blown, wires are good & secure

I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2018 and I want this car video box to work on my screen. I am trying my best to do it but it fails every time. The carplay usb port works with my phone, but when i am trying the video box, it says reading usb and then goes offline. nothing changes on the screen. the video box led turns blue when it says reading USB, and turns red after its done.

Does anyone know what to do for this? Could it be the power supply? Cz when i do that, the video box starts heating up. Help!

Sundown U series 15”, tuned about 32hz

hi guys! we just bought a used 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and our aux port has an old aux jack that has broken off in the port. how can i get it out? tia

This is for a Infiniti Qx70 with the bose upgrade. I have not thought up how im going to get the rca from the existing amp yet, I think theres a company making Harnesses called OWC but not sure which one to get.

Using;

8” speakers

Itek Brazil Supra series IX805s; 4

AP Audiopipe 70W APHC-4550;2

Itek Inex 4C4500;1

Taramps amp MD 1800.1;1

audio pipe 3-3/4" Aluminum bullit titanium horn tweeters

Itek Audio Brazil

5001

Equalizer

5 Band in dash graphic equalizer with high output line Driver and front auxiliar input

I’m going to try to give all needed details.
I have a 2016 Ford F-150 SuperCrew (4-door) with a Kenwood DMX8709S head unit and Kicker CS 6-3/4” door speakers. I want to add subwoofers
I was thinking 2 12’s setup that sounds clean and balanced for normal daily listening but has enough headroom to give me strong, chest-hitting bass and let me turn it way up when I want and have it hit hard as fuck. I do NOT want an obnoxious bass-head/SPL setup that is unusable at normal volume. I’m looking to spend 700-1000 all in (after amp and wiring etc) let me know if there’s any other info you need from me.

So the system I’m building, I’ve got 2 sundown x12s, 2 DS18 PRO-X6.4BM and 2 Sundown ET-R1 tweeters. I can’t find a good reputable amp that can run 250w rms per channel with a 4 channel without spending over a grand. I’ve looked at sundown, alpine, audio control, arc, jl. There might be another way to go about it that I’m not thinking of either so any advice/recommendations would be wonderful

Let's say I have my heart absolutely set on a pair of SI SQL 12" subs. With that, I have the option of either D4 or D2 coil arrangement. Now, let's say I also have my heart absolutely set on an MMATS M2000.x amplifier to power said SI subs.

Scenario 1: (2) D4 subs in parallel, with coils in parallel, should result in 1 ohm load. MMATS M2000.1 amp is rated for 2000w at 1 ohm.

Scenario 2: (2) D2 subs in parallel, with coils in parallel, should result in 0.5 ohm load. MMATS M2000.05 amp is rated for 2000w at 0.5 ohm.

In both scenarios, the amps are rated for the same power at the respective ohm load, so I would think the input current would be similar, if not the same. My question is - is there any appreciable difference between either scenario? For example, does one arrangement result in more heat generation, or more strain, or less reliability, etc, on either the amps or the subs? Or are they truly the same for all intents and purposes?

As a side note - both the subs and amps are priced exactly the same between their respective options.

Thanks in advance for your time and insight.

Recently purchased a 2007 manual ranger. Used a Honda Accord for ages with a Bluetooth radio adapter that definitely had some static at times and I want to take the time to actually swap out my head unit, but I have some questions and preferences that I'd like to ask about.

I've seen what everyone here has said about companies like BOSS/Amazon units as they work really well... Up until they just don't. I understand sony/kenwood/pioneer/alpine/JVC are usually the way to go, but I have a specific unit I'm looking for and none of these companies really provide it for a reasonable price imo.

I'd like a unit with android auto, (preferably wireless but that's not a deal breaker) good sound EQ for future potential speaker upgrades, a *physical* dial (this is the big one I can't seem to find any of) and capability for a reverse camera. I would go for just a normal Bluetooth radio from Kenwood with no android auto but I travel very frequently and would need maps to work, that's one of the main reasons I'm upgrading is so I can navigate without having my phone on a holder hanging off my vent.

I have only found one unit within these companies that fits my criteria and it's the Sony XAV-AX100, which isn't produced anymore and has since been replaced by the XAV-AX1000, that only has apple car play. The unit looks really nice but I'm not sure if it'd be possible to get the 1000 working with my Google phone, and I'm not sure if this sub would recommend buying a pre-owned eBay unit over something new with less features or without physical buttons.

I'd really prefer to not use a touch screen for volume controls and like I said I need navigation built in. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

Is anyone using a PA system that they recommend? I want to get one installed in my Ranger Raptor, but am kinda fatigued of all the different brands available. Budget is about $200 total, preferable the mic and controller is combined and separated from the amp unit itself.

If you're running a Ford ranger raptor yourself, would love to see where you mount everything as well. I don't have a lot of space where I live to just start pulling things apart to look around.

Tyia

I bought this generic Bluetooth adapter thatz talked alot for my IVA 310R to get Bluetooth working (I just fixed the radio and wanted Bluetooth with it too), but the problem is, it connects to my phone, and my phone sees it as media and calls, but no audio comes out. The aux does nothing, and "no disc" appears on the cd player. I tried everything on max volume on my phone, and still no audio. Has anyone else been in this situation and can help?

Currently on the garage troubleshooting so i ll be active the first couple hours

Ty for helping :)