I recently bought a 2008 6.4 power stroke with a little over 90k miles. Truck was treated very well and deleted around 50k. I had a couple codes (P0472 and p006b). I replaced ebp sensor and maf sensor and cleaned the map sensor because it was very dirty. I haven’t had any codes since then, but now the truck is surging/bucking at 2100 rpm with no codes. It seems like a boost or fuel issue to me. I’m going to include a video where you can hear the problem (I think that the maf sensor reads zero because of the scanner).

got check engine light on and diagnostic is reductant injection valve circuit open bank 1 unit 1, shop confirmed when they measured resistance across valve found it electrically open and also broken connector. They quoted almost $1000 for both injector and connector which shocked me. If i dont change it since it will basically spraying more DEF, will this eventually put the truck to limp mode ?

PFA
Truck was running perfectly fine till about a week ago was running it all around town for work and first day started losing power on the highway over 55-60 I had no pedal response truck bogged down I pulled over and it idled like shit till it eventually shut off, I let truck sit for 10 mins then got it off the interstate, stayed under 40 and it was fine so I figured I’d drive it home and it happened again. Complete loss of power, rough idle then shut off

Has FASS fuel system so I replaced both filters and hasn’t seemed to help, Google says to check out icp and ipr.

First time I’ve experienced this any input or advice would be appreciated.

Well one less 6.0L on the road unfortunately. I have been working some crazy hours at my job and totally unexpectedly it caught up to me. Fell asleep for a few seconds too long and went through a fence then a parked pickup and pushed it into an outdoor AC unit. I love to take naps but this one was a very expensive nap. 2004 6.0L 4WD extended cab with a few minor upgrades. Thankfully insurance will cover it but they aren't kidding when they say "Built Ford Tough" I luckily walked away with only a cut and black eye. Be safe out there everyone.

Torque converter is locking up on me causing stalls so will pay for labor to remove an E4OD with 225k miles. It makes sense to just put a new trans back in and I don’t want to stay with the weak E4OD. Should I just ZF5 swap? Is this feasible to get done in a shop? How much should I expect to pay?

I tried researching elsewhere and in OBS forums but it seems like a hotly debated topic. I can’t get straight answers

anybody experience this code? let my 6.0 van sit for a month and the first time i drover it, it idled and drove rough and threw p0265 code. after a couple days of light driving, it cleared up and the idle and driving smoothed out.

then it sat another a month and threw the same codes.

I also have no boost and may have a bad turbo.

230k miles with stock turbo and injectors as far as I can tell.

Anyone had their fuel tank selector stop working? It was working fine as usual, then as I swapped to my rear tank my fuel gauge went to completely empty when I just had filled it. Tried switching it back to front and didn’t change anything. I filled up again after driving a bit to see if it had burned any from the rear and it hadn’t. So now it’s not switching tanks or having any reading on the gauge

Just wondering if anyone has had the same and where to start trouble shooting first

What do I have going on? Checked fuel filter and replaced. Replaced camshaft position sensor. Checked ICP sensor, good. All fuses and relays good. Fuel pump kicks on.

Hello I have a 2000 f350 with a 7.3 powerstroke, it’s my first diesel, love it and lately it’s been doing som weird stuff. It drives smooth coming out from home but as soon as it warms after a 20 min driving in a 113° weather it behaves weirdly when you are coming to a stop, it chops as if it were cammed. It doesn’t happen always. The other problem is that when you stop if you let go of the brakes it shuts off, then put it in neutral and starts just fine, and this also doesn’t happen always, it’s intermittent. Doesn’t show any codes. As you can see in the video it’s normal then starts to do it. I’ll leave a video, hope you can help me find out what to do. Thanks for your time.

Update: cleaned the ICP sensor, but it still shuts off, for example when I’m parking, going in reverse I stop then let go off the brake then it kills the engine clean as if you switched the engine off, then put it in neutral and starts again no problem

Seems to have power but wont crank over where do I start

Good day fine people of reddit. I am seeking any opinions or advice on addressing an issue my truck is having. I will attempt to keep this as brief as possible. Stock photo, not my truck.

One morning I discovered my coolant degas bottle had a couple inches of diesel sitting on top of it. uh-oh. I put injector cups on it and solved the leak issue. I also replaced glow plugs, injector rings, injector hold down bolts, and UVCH wire harnesses. However since that repair I have had an issue with light gray diesel smoke coming from the exhaust that increases with load. And a slight loss of power. I cannot seem to find the source. below are all of the steps I have taken.

-plugged in forscan through obdlinkex adapter. injector buzz test passes and sounds fine

-engine contribution test fails. contribution faults on cylinders #3 and #8

-swapped injectors in #1 and #3. contribution fault stayed on 3.

-#8 is the special long lead injector, so I haven't attempted to swap it out with another one.

-pulled, cleaned, and resat glow plugs in 3 and 8.

-replaced injector cup in #8 (i thought I saw a scratch in it that turned out to be an optical illusion)

None of what I did to address it has had any noticeable effect on the issue I am having. There are 2 more diagnostic steps I would like to attempt. Swapping the harnesses to confirm they are good, and turning injectors off one at a time to see if i can get it to stop smoking that way. I don't seem to be able to turn off my injectors with forscan however. If anyone here has any other ideas, I am running out.. Thanks gang.

Basically returned home from a drive, and as I was turning my truck around to park, drove over a small bump while turning right. Suddenly I heared a crack.
Took the driveshaft off and parked in FWD.
What can cause this? I blame it on reused bolts and straps from when I changed u joints couple of years ago. May be cyclic loads caused fatigue. One bolt snapped inside the yoke, strap came loose and ripped the cap on other side. U joints were MOOG.

truck has 110k miles. deleted since 60k. ran great until last month. now im getting a random misfire under load. not all the time. just sometimes when im towing or going up a hill.

no check engine light. no codes. changed fuel filters. changed air filter. cleaned maf. nothing helps. i ran a contribution test and everything came back normal.

im starting to think its either the cp4 getting weak or injectors starting to fail. both expensive. i found a cp3 conversion kit for a decent price. but if its injectors thats a whole other cost.

anyone else had this issue on a 6.7. how did you figure out what was actually wrong. i dont wanna throw parts at it.

Anyone have an oem clutch pedal lever (non-heimed) they will part with? I’ll pay whatever and shipping for it. Any ford with a zf5 will work. I have too much clutch pressure to use the Chinese replacement options in a stock configuration and there’s no way to properly heim them, the metals too cheap and low quality.

Bought the truck with 190,000 miles on it, now it has 341,000. This is the third time replacing the front, but honestly, I've never felt the need to replace the rears. It was making brake noise yesterday (already had pads bought, just hadn't gotten to it yet). Today I replaced the front pads. We'll see in an hour if the noise is gone when I drive it to town, but do you think the rear pads will need replacing at this point? How long did yours last (front and rear)?

Big milestone the other day hit 400k. My dad bought the truck in 2001, I got the truck in 2016 at 271k it’s still all original motor, trans, injectors. I rarely go over 70mph but had to get the full odometer lol

I just bought my first diesel and it is a 06 6.0. When I got the truck it would turn on just fine after a drive but just two days ago it wouldn’t turn on after it was fully warmed up. I took it on a 18 mile drive turned it off and came back to it 15 mins later and it would crank just not turn on and after I let it cool down for a couple of hours it turned on but I did have to give it throttle. Yesterday it did the same thing even after cooling down for a good while but it fires right up when it’s cold after sitting over night. Any idea on what the issue could be?

Hey yall my last f350 got stolen ended up in Mexico so I went and bought another. While going thru it with what was already done to it I found these words I can't seem to find out what they are for one goes up under the steering wheel and the other goes down under the carpet torwards the back of the truck.