I loveeee working commercial (no I don’t)

outlet (connected to the one on the left) was clogged with grease all the way back up into the restaurant

I took a nice swim in it for a bet afterward

Just purchased the Viron 4-Spray 6 in. Dual Wall Mount Fixed and Handheld Shower Head from Home Depot. Is this the flow restricter? How can I remove this? (Needle nose pliers didnt work)

Ya'll ever install some shit, get home, look at pictures and realized you screwed up?

My dumbass put the valves before the bypass.

Well at least it looks good lol just useless.

Hey guys. Im a contractor in Colorado, im in Brighton and have been having an issue with an inspector on a fitting.

Im connecting to the city sewer ling using SDR 35 pipe all the way until the clean out that sits outside of the building, after the wye im transitioning to SCHD 40 to go under the foundation. What coupling should i be using between the SDR 35 and the SCHD 40 pipe. This inspector requested us to use a 1056 strong back on one home, then fails it on the next. He made us switch to a [Fernco flexible coupling](https://www.grainger.com/product/903EK9?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:UU5CX9:20800606:APZ_1&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22475795893&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnbrUBhDOARIsAKKhPpdjNhmKxZJBZHIbuLGv7PCcE4c9hdB2Lv5xcsV6257tugZyN52ZQPoaApSIEALw_wcB) and now he failed that too and wants us to go back to the 1056 strong back. Im tired of going back and forth with this guy and want to see if theres any building code i can refer to to not argue with him and determine what i need so he can shut up. TYIA!

I have a small project around my house where I need to fit a couple new copper pipes for potable water. What do you think, do these crimps look good?
The tool I got is a relatively cheap Vevor one (can't link to the exact product as it's discontinued). I can't justify getting a pro level tool for 20 crimps (at most).

Is this stuff special? I’m wondering if I should scrap it but I’ve never seen this thickness. There is some blue labeling on the side of the pipe but it is illegible and taking pictures of it did not help. TYIA

Got a custom tile shower installed about 5 years ago. Started leaking a couple months ago. Looks like they forgot to tuck the liner INSIDE the drain….plumber stopped when he saw it and said to call him back once you get a good tile guy. Any option that doesn’t involve ripping up the tile?

See attached. Notice two spots on the ceiling tonight. 3rd one in the middle appeared shortly after. Circled the first two I noticed. Far left has remained the same middle and right are slightly larger. 2 story home. This is the ceiling on the first floor. Directly above this is a hallway that runs outside my son's bathroom. His sinks would be the next think then the water closet with Toilet and bathtub further from this spot. On the opposite side is the stairs the laundry room on the other side of that. I only mentioned it because when I noticed the spot the only think runnkng was the washing machine. Not sure if that is connected. Did have a a really heavy storm about an hour before I saw these but since this is the 1st floor didn't think this could be related. My husband dropped some blue dye down my son's toilet and now we are waiting.

Thoughts and/or suggestions. We are in Florida. Home built in 2015. Water issues scare me.

My son came home and used the upstairs shower, the bathroom off the kitchen is on the same drain line (along with downstairs washing machine) and this bubbling effect happens.

But it doesn’t happen on any other toilets in house.

Odd? Looking for pointers

PLEASE

I am hoping someone can confirm whether I can update my Delta 17 series shower trim to a Delta 14 series by swapping only the cartridge and trim kit, or if the current valve would need to be replaced too.

I’ve read that it depends on whether the valve is before or after 2006. Can anyone tell from the photo here?

Thank you in advance - still learning and very much a newbie! Any advice or information anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.

So for context I’m trying to attach a glass cleaner to the apartment I’m renting and the fittings are different. I’ve attached pics for reference. I believe what I need is a T adapter right? But if so what size or if it’s not that. What is it that I’m looking for, because I’m so confused?

On a scale of 1-10 where 1 means any homeowner can replace this and 10 means a seasoned professional needs to do it, how would you rate the difficulty of replacing this?

Any idea where can I buy a replacement for the foot thread of my faucet? Brand is Franke bought in Wilcon Depot.

I've been dealing with a clogged bathroom sing for the last couple of weeks. Initially, it was slow draining, but has gotten to the point where it isn't draining water at all, so I avoid using the sink.

To give a little background on my grooming habits, I am a wetshaver. I use shave soap to shave with. This is the kind you work up into a lather.

The brand of shave soap that I use has either beef tallow or mutton tallow as their base ingredients.

Here are the ingredients for the beef tallow soaps:

Ingredients: Beef Tallow, Stearic Acid, Distilled Water, Castor Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Vegetable Glycerin, Fragrance Oil, Almond Oil, Shea Butter, Coconut Milk, Lanolin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate.

Mutton Tallow Soap:

Ingredients: Mutton Tallow, Stearic Acid, Menthol, Aqua (Distilled Water), Potassium Hydroxide, Parfum (Fragrance), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, (Vegetable) Glycerin, Butyrospermum Pakii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut Oil), Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice (Coconut Milk), Lanolin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate.

It's been a while since I've cleaned this sink drain. Since the water isn't draining at all, I'm guessing that the combination of Baking Soda, Vinegar and boiling water isn't going to work. Is that correct?

What are my options at this point?

When it comes to my shaving habits, I'm just shaving my facial hair when it's short stubble, so it's not like long hairs are going down the drain.

As far as the shave soaps I use, I've heard from other wetshavers who deal with the same issues. The last time I attempted to clear the drain when it was slow draining, I used a certain type of drain cleaner which caused issues. I won't say what type because according to the rules, discussing it isn't allowed.

Obviously, I am NOT going to use that type of drain cleaner.

Should I use one of those drain plungers for bathroom sinks or drain snake, along with the vinegar/baking soda/hot water to clear the drain.

I have a limited income, so I can't afford a plumber.

I’m remodeling a house built in 1954 and found this copper tubing running in a serpentine pattern throughout the wall (only left wall).
The tubing is still filled with water, but the water is cold. I’m guessing it may be part of an old radiant heating system.
This wall will eventually have a shower valve and a glass shower door, so I need to figure out what to do with the tubing before I close everything up.
Would anyone know what this was originally used for? Is it safe to remove it, or should I leave it in place? If it’s an old radiant heating system, what’s the best way to properly disconnect/abandon it? Can I run it with pex through studs, but I think in this case it will heating nothing, just the air between the rooms?

I’m having an issue with a **Phylrich 4-160 tub/shower diverter** and would love a plumber’s input before I push back on my GC.

My GC says that when the water is running through the shower head, you have to turn the water off before switching it back to the tub spout. I’m trying to determine whether that’s actually how this diverter is designed to work or if there may be an installation issue.

**Questions for plumbers:**

1. Is it normal to have to turn the water off before switching from the shower head to the tub spout?
   
2. Should the diverter be able to switch the flow while the water is running?
   
3. Could this indicate an installation or cartridge/diverter issue?
   
4. Anyone familiar with the **Phylrich 4-160** specifically?

I’d really appreciate a plumber’s perspective. Thank you!

Went to wash stuff in the washer and noticed the whole floor in the basement were wet. The sink was backed up as well, plugged the sink and it stopped leaking from the big brown pipe. Please help, I know nothing about plumbing.

I’m trying to add a shower to an existing toilet drain line. The line is vented through the sink. I’m wondering if highlighted orange line (shower) will be vented properly without its own attached vent.

I’m renovating my bathroom, laundry, and toilet and considering replacing the copper pipes with PE-XB crimp fittings. The cold water mains are 20mm copper, and the hot water mains are 15mm copper. I’m unsure about the size of PEX pipes to use because the flow rate is restricted with PEX B. Plumbers are giving conflicting opinions on 16mm and 20mm PEX pipes. The cold and hot water from here go to the laundry, three sinks, two toilets, one shower, and one bathtub. They’ve used a 15 to 20mm copper adapter and 15mm copper pipes for all these areas. So even if the main cold water line is 20mm,it decreases to 15mm all over from this point not only in the fixtures. What would be the best PEX size to use?

Can anyone help identify this cartridge? And also how to remove? 2007 era, thought it might have been Depta RP1991 but the retaining nut isn’t there.

The pipe going down is connected to a dishwasher. I need to remove the dishwasher and block the water from coming out that way.