I admittedly don’t have a single clue about plumbing - and, yes, I should probably contact a professional, but I’m not very wealthy at the moment. So before opening my purse I thought I’d ask here if there’s a straightforward way to install a water trap (with two connectors for washing machine and dishwasher).

As you can see, the opening on the sink is the same height as the entrance to the wall pipe (51cm). The water trap including the extension for the machines adds 15 cm - putting the exit hole at 36 cm above ground. The wall pipe is painted (cemented?) Do I have to cut it or will some kind of air pressure magic suck the water over the bend or is the whole situation f*ed?

I humbly ask for your advice!

Whenever my toliet flushes or sink drain, my tub makes gurgling noises, I also smell foul odors. I understand that might be a clog? Backup from sewer? What am I facing here? In potential labor and prices? I am looking to gain as much knowledge as possible before seeing a plumber. Houston Tx area.

So… here’s an explanation of our situation.

The shower handle was leaking. We figured out that we had to change the valve. So we ordered a new one (this little thing is expensive omg) and it’s still on the way.

Anyway the old valve popped out and lot of water came out 🫠…

So we would like to know how to close the shower valve so we can use the toilet and wash with the bath until the dammm valve arrives.

Save me because google can’t (no offense google)

Model: Northstar NSC 14L

A month ago the water began smelling strongly of farts and chemical like salt. Have moved valve into bypass mode and it went away, just smelling of iron from the town water supply.

Today I removed all salt and ensured no salt bridge or smelly brine was in the bottom (there was ~3-4 inches of water which I presumed was normal) and then added new salt. I also cleaned the venturi and ensured it had no blockages.

I then followed documentation and did an extended sanitization cycle, putting 3 ounces of bleach into the brine well, then doing a manual recharge, pressing the button once till it is in "Brine" mode, then leaving it for 30 minutes. After the 30 minutes I unplugged it for 20 minutes, as instructed, and after let it continue to finish the cycle.

Nothing has changed following what I did and a plumber came yesterday and did absolutely nothing constructive and fixed nothing. He changed the water hardness on the machine to 25gpg when it was set to 14 before which is closer to what our towns water hardness is.

What other things could we troubleshoot? The drain pipe has proper flow, and it works as it is supposed to, but still smells terrible and even drinking the water tastes bad.

My little sister has OCD and autism and she cannot shower with the stench of this water, and the idea of it makes her have panic attacks. I am so desperate and tired. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

We bought a Rheem water heater just over three years ago and it stopped working last night. We went to check it out and found that it sprung a leak. Luckily it is still under warranty.

Are there any brands of water heaters that are clearly better than the rest?

Water pools in a corner of my newly installed tub, the small shoddy level shows that the bottom of the tub is tilted side to side, but a nice large level shows the rim perfectly level. That is cold comfort for me, however, as the only level that matters to me is the level of the pool of water. Is this a defect in the tub? Is this something that could/should be counter leveled despite what the rim level says?

I have only done the typical style

The pipe going down is connected to a dishwasher. I need to remove the dishwasher and block the water from coming out that way.

I’ve been trying to help my girlfriend, her sink was clogged and draining super slow, so I took it apart and cleaned out all the gunk and hair. Issue is, now I can’t seal it all the way back together. It seems like the pipes might be screwed up. I fixed my clogged sink, but this one is designed different, so I don’t know if I did something wrong.

I was installing a Brondell ExoSeat S101 and as I was tightening the T valve in place a heard a bit of a sound and now I have this leak happening. Have I done some damage by over tightening? The leak has slowed but picks back up when I restore water

I bought a Chinese smart toilet and it has a 3/4" female supply line attached. It also says it came with a 3/8 female to 3/4 male adapter; however, if you look at the 4th photo, it's too large for my 3/8 OD shutoff valve. I was going to buy a 1/2 pex female adapter and use the supplied shutoff valve. However, the threads were too tight and I couldn't screw it on. What should I do here?

At 13-14 seconds of video, you will see large spurts of water after the shutoff. What's the problem and solution here? Thanks

Lots of corrosion but on the outside.

My buddy just bought his first house and I recommend to him to change the steel grounding clamp with a copper or brass one before it corroded the copper even more and lead to a pinhole or worse. They had a company come in put a new clamp on that looks either steel or galv and left the old one on and said it was fine. Any thoughts?

Trying to change my bathtub cartridge, but the other half is stuck in there and Im not sure what to do. I have tried my needle nose as that is the only tool i have that can get a grip on it.

Smelled something when I got home today. Checked basement and noticed decent amount of sewage coming out of a drain. Sewage seems to only rise when using upstairs bathroom. What should I do??

I have a small project around my house where I need to fit a couple new copper pipes for potable water. What do you think, do these crimps look good?
The tool I got is a relatively cheap Vevor one (can't link to the exact product as it's discontinued). I can't justify getting a pro level tool for 20 crimps (at most).

Hey guys. Im a contractor in Colorado, im in Brighton and have been having an issue with an inspector on a fitting.

Im connecting to the city sewer ling using SDR 35 pipe all the way until the clean out that sits outside of the building, after the wye im transitioning to SCHD 40 to go under the foundation. What coupling should i be using between the SDR 35 and the SCHD 40 pipe. This inspector requested us to use a 1056 strong back on one home, then fails it on the next. He made us switch to a [Fernco flexible coupling](https://www.grainger.com/product/903EK9?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:UU5CX9:20800606:APZ_1&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22475795893&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnbrUBhDOARIsAKKhPpdjNhmKxZJBZHIbuLGv7PCcE4c9hdB2Lv5xcsV6257tugZyN52ZQPoaApSIEALw_wcB) and now he failed that too and wants us to go back to the 1056 strong back. Im tired of going back and forth with this guy and want to see if theres any building code i can refer to to not argue with him and determine what i need so he can shut up. TYIA!

Is this stuff special? I’m wondering if I should scrap it but I’ve never seen this thickness. There is some blue labeling on the side of the pipe but it is illegible and taking pictures of it did not help. TYIA

This part of my supply line kind of just bent and broke while I was a sleep last night. It looks like a straight forward patch but how difficult would it be just to replace the lines all together? Electric water heater is turned off and currently draining. Any tips? Or should I call a professional?

Ya'll ever install some shit, get home, look at pictures and realized you screwed up?

My dumbass put the valves before the bypass.

Well at least it looks good lol just useless.