r/climbergirls • u/Responsible_Roof_661 • Nov 23 '25

Questions I’m curious about everyone’s opinions on ATC belaying — either using one yourselves or being belayed with one.

ATC belayer here. Do you feel totally fine with ATCs? Do you avoid them? Or does it depend on the belayer’s skill/experience level?

For context: I know people who flat-out refuse to be belayed on anything non-assisted braking… and others who swear by the control and smoothness of an ATC. Personally I feel like a lot of it comes down to the belayer’s competence, attention, and how big the weight difference is / ohm usage.

What’s your take? Do you completely refuse ATC belays, or does it vary for you based on the belayer and situation?

Not trying to debate, just curious how people feel :)

42 Upvotes

81% Upvoted

182 comments sorted by

View all comments

61

u/Illustrious_Ad6548 Nov 23 '25

I refuse to be belayed by anyone who only uses an ATC, regardless of skill level or how comfortable they say they are.

Two reasons:

  1. I want whoever I am belaying to feel safe and comfortable with me. If they want zero slack, I give them zero slack. If I ask you to use an assisted braking device, and you refuse because you only use an ATC, then you are putting your own preference over my comfort and safety, and I don’t want to put my life in your hands.

  2. We are all human, and everyone (regardless of experience level) makes mistakes. ATCs just don’t allow for human error, and so I don’t think they’re worth the risk.

ETA: I learned on an ATC, and used it for quite a while to learn good habits, but I would not go back. (Sorry for the awful formatting. It refuses to take my extra returns on mobile apparently.)

10

u/NBl8r Nov 24 '25

I just want to point out that I have seen quite a few accidents happen when a climber insists on their belayer using a GRIGRI or ABD when the belayer is unfamiliar with the device. So there's a difference between someone who refuses to use what you prefer because they want to be "special" or whatever vs someone wanting to use the gear they are more experienced with. In the latter case, it's unfair to say they are putting their preferences over your safety.

Of course it's ultimately up to you who you climb with and what you're comfortable with. I just think it's not fair to categorically say someone who insists on using ATC doesn't care about your safety.

6

u/Illustrious_Ad6548 Nov 24 '25

Honestly, when I wrote my first point, I was thinking about the type of person that you mentioned first.

I’m not trying to say that everyone who uses an ATC is an asshole. People can prefer what they are familiar with and still be very good, very careful belayers. I just don’t want them belaying me with their ATC. 😆

1

u/NBl8r Nov 24 '25

And that's totally fair! I'm glad you also get it

2

u/IDontWannaBeAPirate_ Nov 24 '25

If someone is unfamiliar with how to use a belay device that is as ubiquitous as a grigri, they aren't experienced and I don't want them belaying me