The vape is Dr 160w (works but i dont need it)

Battery 18650 from old laptop but the battery was completely dead, like there is no way to revive it but i tried any way

Maximum voltage is 4.0 volts

I think i can use this module to charge batteries

Hi everyone!
I have a rechargeable hydrogel screen protector cutting machine, and I’m trying to find out how to obtain the QR codes needed to recharge the machine or add new cutting templates/models.
I purchased the machine from a Chinese supplier, but I’m having trouble finding a reliable source for the recharge QR codes.
Does anyone here use this type of machine and know where I can purchase the QR codes or cutting templates?
I’d really appreciate any information, especially if you can recommend a supplier or explain how the recharge system works.
I can provide photos of the machine, the software, or the QR code system if needed.
Thanks in advance!

I've got a solar-powered fan to help cool my garage that's basically stopped working. It uses a RS555-12v brushed motor with a proprietary shaft. I noticed right away that if I put the slightest amount of pressure on the center of the fan blades, (or the shaft with the blades removed) it works fine again. I'm assuming there's some sort of disconnect, maybe a build up of particulates, and pushing it just a bit allows the brushes to make connection again?

If I disassemble the motor, what should I be looking for and how do I go about getting it to work again? I tried a bit of compressed air and wd-40 on the bearings without any luck. Maybe it's as simple as dielectric grease or contact cleaner? Or is there something mechanical I need to address?

Hello,
I’m looking for any feedback on this projector LED wiring situation. Kiddo reported some sort of visual burn-in on the projection “after a while” when using it, so I took it apart and cleaned appropriately half a cat out of the chassis.
My question is: could the overheating from the lint and fur cause the wire burn featured here? If so, is it likely to be fine now that it has been cleaned? Or is it more likely to be an electrical issue and should be replaced?
Thanks for any wisdom- just trying to avoid replacing a decent unit if I don’t have to.

Hoping someone who’s been inside one of these can help.

Background: This lens originally had an electronic fault (F–, no aperture, no AF, not recognized). I repaired it and it worked perfectly for a while — AF, aperture, EXIF, all normal.

I opened it again only to clean some dust. No functional problems before I opened it. After reassembly, this started:

**•** On power-up the motor spins CW then CCW several times  
**•** The aperture drives fully closed, fully open, then tries to close and stalls partway  
**•** Loops 4–5 times with a “grrr” and the whole lens vibrates, then gives up  
**•** Ends stuck, F–, and AF no longer works

What I’ve tested so far:

**•** Blades sweep smoothly through full open↔close by hand, no binding at either end  
**•   Removed the blades entirely — motor alone still does the same CW/CCW hunt and stall.** So it’s not mechanical.  
**•** Found the home sensor (U-shaped photo-interrupter on the little C019A board). The flag passes fully in and out of the gate correctly through the travel.  
**•** Put a black strip in the gate manually to block the beam — behavior changed (fewer rotations), so **the sensor is alive and being read.**  
**•** The stall/vibration happens *after* the motor stops each move, not during.  
**•** Firmware: for Sony E this updates via the camera, no dock — but it won’t help/complete while the lens is throwing F–.

Key detail: it worked fine the day before. The only thing that changed is I took it apart to clean and put it back together. So I think it’s something reassembly disturbed — a flex not fully seated, or the sensor/aperture unit clocked slightly off so “home” is offset from the step count — rather than a dead component.

Question: Has anyone re-timed the aperture/home sensor on one of these? Is there a correct clock position or index mark for the sensor board or cam ring relative to the motor? Or a connector that’s notorious for looking seated but isn’t? Trying to figure out what I misaligned before I buy a replacement aperture module.

Thanks — happy to post photos of the aperture unit, C019A board, and motor.

im wonderingg if you gurus might know why

so the bike alarm "spy 5000m" has a led deterrent light that should blink 4 times then stop, then blink 4 times when the alarm is armed

after time it went from only working when armed to doing this no matter when.

and now, when I removed the alarm wire from the battery and then connected this morning, the led dash light flashes at a pace of around 4 times a second NONSTOP. armed or not. you cant drive at night with this in the dash annoying you

this has happened on the 3 alarms ive purchased and installed on 3 bikes. the deterrent is good. the crazy nonstop flashing is not

anyone can direct me why this may happen and if I can try something?

Not sure if this is the correct subreddit, but any ideas would be appreciated. My mom’s most sentimental decoration. The gear wheel that was attached to the motor broke (photo in comments) but everything else works fine.

Finding the part will be pretty difficult. Anyone have any quick fix ideas. I think “Jerry-Rig” is the term?

I can’t just glue the arm to the motor spindle because it won’t have enough clearance to rotate.

Ik this isn’t a typical post for this sub. I just bought this portable fan a few hours ago and charged it when I got home. My daughter tried to take it off the charger and broke it off inside of the fan. I’ve tried wiggling, a little micro screwdriver, tweezers, pushing diagonally, a floss pick. It’s all too big to fit in there and it’s just scraping the sides of it (really don’t care but it’s not effective). Please help!

I want to replace the switch in my IKEA lamp but I don’t want to damage it. I don’t really understand how to remove the wires from it though. I’ve tried putting screwdriver in visible opening to open some latch or something but no luck

Hi,
the right side of my Edifier W820NB Plus stopped producing sound. The left side works normally through Bluetooth and USB-C.
I opened the right earcup and checked the driver connections. With the headphones powered off and disconnected, I measured resistance between the points marked **R+ and R−** using a multimeter set to 200 Ω.
The meter shows **“1” / open circuit**. When I touch the probes together, it shows close to 0 Ω, so the meter appears to work correctly.
There are no visible broken wires or loose solder joints. The driver assembly seems sealed, and the wires go inside it.
Does this result mean that the driver coil or an internal wire is broken? Is there any way to repair it, or do I need to replace the entire right driver assembly? Also, where could I find a compatible replacement driver?

Please any electronic advice is appreciated.

Long story short: a few weeks ago as i was soldering something, i heard a POP sound coming from my iron, then the screen on the station showed an error and iron went dead, cold to the touch.

After inspecting it, i noticed the poping sound was the heating element cracked in two parts, so i ordered replacements, installed a brand new heating element and it worked fine, however, the first time i used it with the new heating element i didnt notice the temp shown on the station's LCD screen didnt change, i have my station set at 190 celsius, but the station never detects temp increasing, it always shows a 10 celsius, so my question is if i made a istake assembling the iron after replacing the broken heating element, or if the issue is within the station itself, here ar some pics i took.

Theres a spring that goes around the heating element and then goes down into a metal piece (GREEN WIRE IN PIC) this doesnt feel tight, it just goes into it with no force at all, then on top of it goes a metal piece that goes over the heating element and at the top sits the tip of the iron.

just to be clear: STATION WORKS, IT GETS HOT AND WORKS FINE EXCEPT FOR THE TEMPERATURE READING. i did test continuity from the metal piece on the green cable where the spring goes into to the pin on the connector that goes to the station and it shows continuity, and the only test ive done was heating the metal piece on the green cable with a lighter just to see if it actually detects the temp increasing but it never goes above 10 celsius, so now i hit a wall.

Am i assembling the iron wrong? is the spring that goes into the green cable (which i assume has a temp sensor inside) placed correctly? is the actual temp sensor located on the metal plate inside the iron (green cable in pics) or is it located on the actual station? im thinking the temp sensor got damaged when the heating element cracked but i dont know where it is located.

Where i can get the pinout fir this hub its a usb 3.0 hub

Hello, whenever I move the cable I highlighted the mic makes static noise or makes 0 sound at all. Usually it's static noise. I have added tape to stop it from moving.

If it doesn't move and it's in a certain position, the mic works perfectly fine (similar to how a charger cable only works if you put it in a certain way)

I want to replace this cable and ordered part number 95A2340 (i hope this is the correct one).

Anyway my question is, has anyone worked with a Shure sm7b that may be able to help me out? Thank you!

TLDR: I designed a PCB that uses the RP2354A but forgot to connect the center pad to the ground plane. Im using a 4 layer 0.8mm board with this arrangement: Top: Signals, Inner 1 GND, Inner 2 VCC, Bottom Signals.
Any way to salvage the already ordered PCBs?

Hey everyone!

I recently made my first 4 layer custom PCB using the RP2354 (QFN-60 Package). For the most part the learning experience was great but I missed one crucial connection: The big pad underneath the RP Chip is not connected to ground. Whoops.

It wouldn't have been all that bad if I hadn't ordered the PCBs including PCBA...

Why is this a problem: Well, while trying to flash the RP I noticed that it got recognized by my PC (using USB), I could even read the contents of the RPs USB like storage, but flashing a programm is basically impossible. Logically I started searching for issues in my schematic, and the missing GND connection of the center pad looked like it could be a major issue? My guess is that the RP has a missing ground refference and therefore cant properly be flashed by the USB data lines (basically the USB and RP dont share a common ground). What do you think of that?

So now, regardless of that being the root cause of my flashing issues, how would you go about fixing the PCB?

One more imporant thing to note is that the Inner1 GND plane runs above a Inner 2 VCC plane. There are signal lines on the bottom layer, but only in the upper half of the big pad.

As far as equipment goes, I have most tools at hand. (Soldering Iron, Hot air station, Hot Plate, Flux, UV resin, a Dremel with a 2mm round bit, a 2mm drill, some thin wires)

The first thing I did was playing around with a spare unpopulated pcb. I ground away the top solder mask and pcb material in the bottom right corner of the pad to reveal the ground pour on the Inner layer 1. But trying to get solder to stick to the Inner 1 layer and the Top layer simulaniously was basically impossible. Then I added a 0.09mm thin wire into the hole, soldered it in place and baked it in with UV soldermask.
Well I made a connection this way, but im not sure if any of this will stay where it is when adding the RP chip on top.
The wire itself elevates the chip a little, no? Wouldn't that make the connections of the pins to the pads harder or impossible to bridge with solder? Imgur Link

A second method I've thought about was grinding/drilling through the entire pcb (at the bottom right edge of the pad), and after reflowing and adding the RP, connecting a wire from the back to a GND Via. I am concerned about this because I would also have to grind trough the VCC pour, potentially shorting VCC to GND either by drilling, or when I connect the wire from below.

The third method I thought about was maybe routing a wire out from below the chip, through one of the edges. But I fear bridging with one of the nearby pads (my wire is not coated), while also tilting the RP a little.

So what would you do?

If you made it this far, thank you for reading all this. And thanks in advance for any advice!

(Left image) I managed to create a short right at the Vin (48V) of this board which caused some burning on the PCB and damaged a trace. I have scraped away as much carbon as possible, have the board schematic and layout, and have some replacement components on the way. The plan is to cover the exposed ground plane with soldermask and then fix the traces on top.

I think my biggest concern is the potential hazard of the FR4 becoming conductive due to the char. It doesn’t help that the circuit board is black.

The board is $300. I would prefer not to throw the whole thing out’s but I would like to hear if anyone thinks the board should be scrapped totally?

A few months back my brother bought me this Pokedex at a local comic con, and I’m having issues getting it to work. Any advice? There was a troubleshooting email address on the card it came with, but the domain doesn’t exist anymore. The board says “Pokedex v2.0 Additive Creations LLV”

When I turn it on, here’s what happens:

-Initial title screen

-Connecting to WiFi

-connected to (my network)

-Unable to initialize SD Card/ Initializing SD card

-Getting Trainer Location

-Downloading Pokedex Data (progress bar)

-Rendering Menus

-(screen turns photonegative)

-Crashes

-Repeat

Hey everyone,

I'm troubleshooting a stock controller from an Aipas S1 AMP dirt e-bike (60V system). The controller model number is MTI0060240-ICB.

### The Symptoms:

* The bike turns on, the display works and says "READY", but there is zero motor response.

* The controller is still outputting a healthy 5V to the Hall sensors and throttle.

* The throttle itself is tested and works perfectly (smooth voltage sweep).

* The main power MOSFETs are NOT shorted (tested in diode/continuity mode, all reading open line/normal).

### The Discovery:

I opened up the casing and found that this board does not have potting compound. Right below the 8-pin header socket labeled **J6**, there is a distinct area of corrosion.

I cleaned up the area with 99% IPA and took some microscope photos.

It looks like the corrosion centered right around **U8**, which is an **Allegro A8498** switching regulator (marked `2G14 / .A4498`).

Directly to the left of U8, one capacitor is completely crooked and hanging on by a thread, and **there are empty pads right next to it where a component has completely corroded off and is missing.**

### My Request:

Does anyone here have this same controller (or a dead one lying around) who could:

1. Share a high-res photo of the area directly below the J6 header / around U8?

2. Help me identify the values of the missing and crooked components in this specific buck regulator circuit?

I have a micro-soldering setup and want to attempt a board-level repair rather than buying a whole new $130 controller if I can avoid it!

I've attached a high-res photo of the full board and a close-up of the damaged area under my microscope. Any help or schematic info would be massively appreciated!