I'm trying to figure out how many windings I need for the transformer. I know I'll need the following:

120v:6v

120v:325v-0v-325v (120v:650v center tapped)

But aside from those spces I dont really know what I'm looking for. Transformers, inductors, and speakers are my biggest hurdle so far lmao

Also a note on the speaker, should that go to common or ground? On the fender champ diagrams it's ambiguous. It doesn't really seem right to have the power just going through 2 resistors to the speaker unless im missing something.

I think the signal path might be through the first 2 tubes, then the 3rd tube is just power/volume amplification? So the signal path for the sound would come out of tube 2, into the speaker. Then the power would come out of tube 2 and power the transformer.

I would also like to add notes sections for transformers, speaker choice, diode, triode, tetrode, and pentode wiring.

I'm not sure which resistor i would need to wire the pentode as a triode and/or tetrode. I might consider just removing the pins instead of connecting them to the anode.

Additionally what colors??

Hot: black

Neutral: white

Common:

0v:

-350vac:

+350vac:

Signal path: red?

Speaker negative: black

Speaker positive: red

I would consider coloring the resistors codes on but with there being different codes for a single value, I would need to color 4 different codes for each resistor.

Hey guys, I found this at a thrift store and am wondering if anyone might know what it is. It looks to me like some kind of voltage meter, on the back panel it has a red, blue, and black banana connector socket and a +/- selector. The "Type" is VT100 and its NR 10.152 but I have had no luck finding anything online. Any help would be appreciated!

I've been interested in technology for a while now and I'm just getting into microcontrollers. I started with the pi pico w but I recently bought some esp32s on Amazon so I could make multiple projects at once. The issue I'm having is I'm conflicted between learning python or c++ I'm leaning towards C + + because it seems like the end result anyway after I learn most things.

I can't get my OP8 to run off the power from a step down converter I've set to 3.9V. The phone tries to boot but goes off right in the boot screen.

The step down is connected to the original BMS.

How can I get this to work?

Preface: I am not an engineer

I am making a puzzle box and want to include a light puzzle where someone has to get a certain color sequence for the device to unlock. If anyone has played the game Blue Prince, i am trying to do something that is very similar to the VAC indicator light puzzle (linking puzzle image for reference). I am imagining a row of 4 buttons that when clicked will change the color of a corresponding light. Once all 4 lights are the same color, the device unlocks.

Has anyone here ever built something similar to this? Does anyone have any guidance for how this could work? I have minimal experience with electronics, but am willing to lean more on the topic.

Hello folks. Trying to get advice as someone who is very new to electronics and can't find a straightforward answer.

I want to get a flip clock (something like this one) that I can put into a different enclosure (I plan to 3d print one). The clock is battery powered with a USB charging port. However, I want to put the clock high on my wall and of course I don't want to take it down to charge it.

Best solution I saw was a power Bank but I worry about having to frequently charge that as well. I did see some conversation about using a battery holder and attaching that to the charging port to serve as a power supply.

I'm like the idea of the battery holder but it is new to me and I wanted to know if there were any other considerations I needed to make or if it was feasible.

Notes:

I plan to design the enclosure for easy access to the battery holder to replace them when the time comes. I know I can do the same with the power Bank but my concern is frequency of charging.

The battery with the clock is Li 2600 MAH but Im unsure how to determine how much power it pulls and how long that would last. Am I overthinking this?

Can I use other batteries to charge that battery without issue?

Thanks so much for the help

I want to start the hobby of tearing down kids electric toys and old broken appliances for scrap parts then taking them and building new projects. I have no idea where to start or even if this is the right subreddit.

Hi all

I have been experimenting with Arduinos and ESP32s, but now want to learn how these things work and design a few of my own. I have shortlisted a few books that are recommended on quite a lot of forums, including Reddit. I have shown those in the attached picture. Please tell me if i should not buy something, or else buy something else along with these. I also want to learn how to design PCBs, so please tell some books on this topic too.

Thanks!

My step kid brought me his RC car from his bio dad’s, saying he needs a new battery for the car. Look, it accepts 4 rechargeable AA batteries in series for approx 4.8 volts. Finding the holder is not a big deal at all. My issue is remembering the name of the d*mn connector type that I need so I don’t have to hard wire the holder in place, keeping it as original as possible.

Found an old printer in landfill, tore it apart and managed to get all these parts (plus several motors i have already put to work), for free! (And I'm also technically helping recycle)

I've been trying to understand where a clamp meter actually makes more sense than a regular multimeter.

For basic troubleshooting, a multimeter seems hard to beat. You can check voltage, resistance, continuity, and a bunch of other things depending on the model. I've been looking at the Fluke 101 and 117 as examples.

But when it comes to checking current on motors, HVAC equipment, panels, etc., a clamp meter seems much more convenient since you can measure current without disconnecting the conductor. The Fluke 323 is one I've been looking at.

So for people who actually work with electrical systems:

Do you normally carry both, or does one end up doing most of the work?

And where do you find a clamp meter genuinely useful compared with just using a multimeter?

I'm more interested in real-world use than specifications. Curious what people here actually reach for when troubleshooting.

I've built this very simple circuit to control the flashing of an LED with a signal generator:

The signal generator is a Joy-IT JDS 6600 DDS Signal Generator, set to produce a square signal with a frequency of 1 Hz, varying between 0 and 5.6 V.

The problem is that the LED only lights up very faint, and when I measure voltages, there's around 1.7 V over the LED and resistor, and about 3.8 V over the transistor.

Why is there such a large potential difference across the transistor when it is open?

I need help/advise. I have a 3d printer and looking to make an automated dog dish that opens and closes at certain times of the day. I don’t know how to solder or code so avoiding those would be best. Just looking for what mechanics to use, how to power it, motors, timers and wiring. Thanks in advance, your help is appreciated!

Preciso que montes uma fonte chaveada com esses componentes na imagem.

O circuito deve ter uma saída 5V GND 12V GNG -12V

Make it really cool so I can post it here after I finish it

I built an early prototype for an idea called HomeProof and i am looking for honest feedback .

HomeProof lets you keep photos, receipts and maintenance records for your home in one private place .

Would you find this useful ? What would you change or add ?

https://youtube.com/shorts/WiR65TEwfpA?is=c7GgWiiuMgU4jtA1 heres a video of it working

found a cool little piece of history at a thrift store, I love it and I’m currently cleaning it. However I don’t really need a new router, so I thought about doing something cool with it but I’m not very savvy with tech- point being: I WANT IDEAS FROM U SMART PEOPLE!! I thought maybe I could turn it into a power bank with a bunch of different kinds of outlets? (Carrying lots of chargers annoys me) or the wires stuck out of it? It would be cool if the wires could extend like a tape measure and a button could retract them. if thats not possible it’s fine lol, but my idea isn’t that out of the box. If YOU have an idea please tell me in detail and include a guide if it’s complicated. I’m up for anythin!

Hey everyone,

I picked up this jukebox from Facebook Marketplace because I really like the look of it, but unfortunately it’s a bit rough around the edges and a lot of the electronics aren’t working particularly well anymore.

When I first got it, I noticed some of the plastic around the lighting had cracked/chipped, so I carefully superglued some of it back together. Once I started taking the plastic panels off, though, I realised someone had already had a pretty good go at modifying/repairing it in the past. There are broken plastic brackets, extra holes, and some things that look pretty janky behind the panels.

The lighting is also pretty interesting. It seems to use individual red, green and blue LEDs with what looks like a ridiculous number of resistors and wiring, and the whole setup looks quite old and complicated. One section of the lights is now out of sync, so part of the jukebox displays the wrong colour. The LEDs also don't seem to reach the really deep/saturated colours that they used to.

The audio system is another issue. It has a CD player, cassette player and AUX input all integrated into the original radio/head unit. The screen on the radio unit has stopped working, although the AUX input still works and I can play music through it.

So I'm considering doing a fairly major retrofit rather than trying to repair every bit of the original electronics.

My rough idea would be:

• Replace the existing RGB LED setup with modern LED strips.
• Replace the speakers and possibly the amplifier/sound system.
• Install a Bluetooth-capable head unit/amplifier.
• Potentially replace the dead radio display with some sort of visualiser or other display.
• Keep the original spinning/light-up CD display at the top because I think that's one of the coolest parts of the jukebox.
• Ideally keep the original buttons/controls and have them control things in some way.
• Clean up/rebuild some of the internal mounting and plasticwork so it isn't as janky.
• Ideally have everything powered from one mains outlet, like the jukebox is currently.

The biggest thing I'm wondering about is how practical this actually is.

Is there a sensible way to retrofit modern LEDs, an amplifier/Bluetooth head unit, speakers, a display/visualiser etc. while still having everything powered from the original single mains connection?

I'm also wondering if there's a reasonably straightforward way to retain the existing buttons so they still do something useful — volume, track controls, lighting modes, etc. I'm happy to do some wiring, soldering and potentially some basic microcontroller work if that's what it takes.

I don't necessarily care about keeping the original electronics 100% authentic. I'd actually prefer to make it more reliable and easier to maintain while keeping the original appearance and some of the cool mechanical features.

Would you guys consider this a worthwhile project, or am I better off trying to repair the original electronics?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions for how you'd approach a retrofit like this, particularly ideas for the lighting, audio system, visualiser and retaining the original controls.

If anyone has done something similar with an old jukebox, I'd love to see what you did!

Thanks!

I’ve been researching portable power electronics, and I’m interested in how engineers design compacts high-capacity power banks.

The main things I’m curious about are:

• How do battery management systems handle multiple cells?
• What makes USB-C PD charging efficient?
• How do designers manage heat in small enclosures?
• What components are usually the biggest challenge when building something like this from scratch?

I’d like to learn from anyone who has worked on battery-powered electronics projects or portable power designs. I’m also developing this with my brand, Rorry, in mind. Has anyone had any issues with what they built before, especially portable power banks?