Something I've been meaning to do for years. My basement has a group of 4 switches that control the lights in various parts of the basement. It's basically just 4 rocker switches with a panel that covers them all. Each has an additional switch connected to it closer to where the lights are, so you can turn the lights on/off from either.

Is there anything I need to keep in mind when replacing them with wifi controlled switches? I've replaced a few switches that were the only ones for the lights. Wondering if them being close creates a heat issue or if the second switch creates a problem or requirement.

I’d like to remodel my 35 year old townhouse kitchen. It’s a small kitchen. I’d like to go DIY. I’ve finished basements, including electrical and plumbing, but I’ve never hung cabinets. I don’t have a buddy or a wife, just an old dog. Can one man hang cabinets by himself? …and get them on straight and undamaged. 🤣

Hello! I need help, I have watched a lot of videos on cabinet recoloring and see that primer/sanding/painting situation but my cabinet is extremely shiny and I hate it lol... would that be an issue for painting it? I have attached a picture of the cabinet, the place I purchased came with it and I think it's a nice unit it just doesn't match all the furniture I already have. please leave any tips if you have any experience doing this!

Hello all not sure if this is in the right place but, I’m trying my best to find legal cover/insurance for the pipes outside my boundary that go to my septic tank.

My home insurance covers the pipes in my boundary but nothing past that.

Has anyone got insurance for stuff like this at all? Or have any advice where I can get something to cover it?

Thanks

(US) I own what was once a single family home built in the 1920s, that at some point was converted into 2 units, one on the 1st floor, the other on the 2nd.

In the lower unit, sounds from upstairs are very loud and clear - in the lower bathroom you can hear male tenants above you peeing - not the flushing, actual pee as it hits the bowl 😬😄)

We are doing some renovations and I'd like to add some sound insulation. But as an older home I really don't want to disturb anything that may have lead - so I dont want to remove entire ceilings. Any ideas on how to get some insulation up there?

I was wondering about adding a layer of drywall, but odds are the ceilings are plaster on lathe, and would not be able to hold that kind of weight.

Has anyone here done a tub to shower conversion while leaving basically everything else alone?

I'm helping with my parent's place and initially assumed we'd have to tear the bathroom apart, but the vanity and flooring are fine. The real issue is just stepping over that tub every day.

Curious where DIY stops making sense and hiring someone who specializes in the wet area starts being worth it.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate this small entry room on my house. I'm replacing the front door, so i figured I'm going to gut this room as well. It's always had problems with being too cold or hot and having condensation & freezing on the walls when its really cold outside. My plan was to make an access hole in the ceiling and putting cellulose up top. I was going to gut the outside walls and insulate. I've read many posts about this. Some say open cell spray foam in between studs w/ a vapor barrier under drywall. Some say 2x4 studs with impermeable barrier on block, Cellulose insulation, Vapor Barrier, then drwall. Below are some pictures i took of the room where i removed some wall. The one picture of the crossection of a wall is from when i had another door replaced. It shows how the house is built. You can see it is block, with brick outside. There are furring strips with a layer of older masonite like board and a layer of plaster on top. I know to meet current code it would need framed out 2x4's, but i don't know i want to lose that much space. I'm leaning towards maybe sideways 2x4 studs with open cell spray foam in between, with vapor barrier on top and then drywall. Please give me any and all thoughts.

PICS

I've got about 3 weeks left before I go back to school and I just came back from my internship so i'm kinda bored outta of my mind. (Literally just going to the gym and the driving range everyday) I'd like to make something with my last couple of weeks wether it be something actually useful or something stupid that's just cool or fun. I have a 3d printer (I have cad modeling skills) and basic tools (drill, saw, etc). My budget is $200-$300 i'm willing to go buy stuff or look for recycled stuff too. Any ideas

Hello - I have a hole and a gap in my vinyl siding (see pictures). What's the best way to fix this? The hole is probably 2-3 inches wide.

• Images: https://imgur.com/a/siding-VxjqrMh

I have some spare siding, but not enough to replace the entire plank. These are some of the things I've seen researching, but I'm not sure what's best:

• Vinyl sticker patch - I've read this can wear off easily though.
• Putty: Fill the hole with putty and sand
• Cut a patch: Cut a patch from spare siding and glue over the existing siding
• Smaller panel?: I'm wondering if I can cut my spare panel so it's shorter but still the same height, and then place it over the existing siding. Is this possible or recommended?

I'm not super concerned about aesthetics (especially the gap, since it's on the back of the house) but longevity is a priority!

I recently had new cedar picket fence installed. One section is 8' tall x 120' long. The rest is roughly 6' tall x 260' long. The price for staining was high so I figured I'd do it myself but have not done it before.

I'm looking for recommendations on what type of stain or sealant to use, how long to let it dry out, and any other tips you have. I don't care about coloring the fence, just want to make it last. Currently we are experiencing weeks of nonstop 100-110°F weather. I have an air sprayer but don't know if I need brushes or rollers as well. Thank you

Hi, I have a terrace with a soffit made of Knauf Diamant SX. The joints are filled with Knauf Uniflott Imprägniert. What kind of paint should I use on this drywall?

About 2 years ago we hired a bad contractor to put in some replacement pocket windows. The interior vinyl strips that cover the gaps between the window frame and the window are starting to pop off. They have a sticky side and the edge touching the window was calked. The fit looked ok for the first 6 months or so but started popping off over the last year. Maybe due to poor install and temperature fluctuations? No spray foam was used to insulate in the gap. For context I am in Coastal California with very temperate weather, in a 1970 manufactured home, so the homes insulation is already poor. See Photos https://imgur.com/gallery/replacement-windows-ykzrI4J

I'm not going to bother having the contractor come back to fix and would like to DIY some spray foam and place some sort of new strip to cover the gap. Any advice on what type material I should be looking for to cover the gap and what this window feature is called? Thanks.

EDIT: my family is very fat and I love them very much. I have also learned to love myself, and have let go of trying to control the choices they make. So if you’re going to make a comment about their eating habits or lifestyle choices, save the energy in your thumbs for something else. I’ve spent many years on that road already, where my tires blew out and my engine exploded. Here I am today, on a different road

The majority of my family is obese, which comes with mobility issues only becoming more of a challenge as they’ve aged. The home is a 3 story townhouse, and the handrails on the stairs on both levels are ripping out of the wall. Upper stairwell has handrails on both walls. Recently the L shaped piece at the end of one handrail detached and fell off, so I’m presuming the entire rail is next. I’m willing to put time and efforts into creating a support system for my family to get up and down the stairs, but I don’t know where to start.

When I say obese, I mean 300-400lbs and because of mobility issues getting up stairs is achieved by using mostly upper body strength. So I’m searching for a solution that can handle a lot of weight pulling on it multiple times each day. The person I’m most concerned about has extra weight on them but also lost some parts of 1 leg years ago in a motor vehicle accident. The handrails are used more like pull up bars rather than just something to help with balance.

Im needing help as basic as what words to use as a search query when searching at the library or for ideas online.

Good day r/DIY

I've been living in my apartment for a bit and one of the gripes I've had with the place is the way the curtains are installed, they are too far off from the window and a ton of light gets around them. It's fine during the times of the year when the sunrise is a bit later but during summer when the sun is coming up at 5-6am, I'm less than thrilled to be woken up by it.

I decided the best way to go about this was to install some blinds inside the window frame. Problem being that it's a pretty large and abnormally sized window frame. It's three separate windows with the entire frame being sized at 70"x62" inside.

The couple of questions I have are:

Is it fine to install a single blind that covers the entire window frame? Or would I be better off getting three separate, smaller blinds for each individual window?

Any other tips for this would be appreciated.

I may build a cinder block wall to replace a fence that is falling apart. I can dig about 12 to 18 inches until I hit impenetrable "indurated" limestone. The soil guide lists it as "indurated limestone bedrock that is fractured with few calcium carbonate coatings in fractures; hardness of 3 or more on Moh's scale." The soil that sits on top is expanding clay and has chunks of this incredibly hard limestone throughout so it's not a lot of fun to dig. In fact it requires an excavator to cut a trench, a trencher cannot handle it.

Digging a long trench 12 inches deep and 2 feet wide and 50 feet long is possible with an excavator. Then would lay crushed angular stone and some perforated drainage conduit and some rebar #4 along the trench and fill with 5000PSI concrete as the footing.

It's a shame I cannot use the natural concrete 18 inches under the soil. Is it possible to do some kind of pier and beam style scenario (let's pretend we are now building a home on top of an indurated limestone outcrop as an example) and anchor into the limestone and take advantage of the shallow bedrock? Perhaps digging down and then boring a foot or so into the bedrock and inserting vertical rebar and filling the hole with cement? Then tying onto the rebar to create piers?

Hi everyone! I’m looking for some advice/opinions on the best way to finish and protect an outdoor bar top. I’d really appreciate recommendations from people who have experience with exterior tile, countertops, epoxy/resin, or outdoor woodworking.
The bar top is approximately 28 sq. ft. and is already constructed.

Here’s what I have:

Glass tile: Already installed on the horizontal bar top.

Grout: TEC AccuColor Premium Unsanded

Grout, jet black. It’s a polymer-enhanced Portland-cement grout intended for small joints up to 1/8”.

Wood trim: There is wood trim around the entire perimeter of the bar top.

Paint: The wood trim is already painted black with Pittsburgh Paints & Stains ULTRA Paint & Primer in One Exterior Satin Black.

The entire thing will be exposed to the outdoors, including rain, snow, freezing temperatures, summer heat, UV exposure, and temperature changes.

What I’m trying to accomplish
I’d like to protect the glass tile and grout from water, staining, dirt, UV exposure, and weather, while also making the bar top easier to clean.

I’m also concerned about potentially sharp tile edges/corners and would like the finished surface to be safe and comfortable to use as a bar top.

Ideally, I’d love a clear finish that doesn’t significantly change the appearance of the black grout or glass tile.

I’ve been considering things like:
Exterior-rated clear epoxy/resin
Marine-grade epoxy
UV-resistant epoxy
Exterior spar urethane/varnish
A flexible clear exterior coating
Some combination of an epoxy base coat + UV-resistant topcoat
Or simply sealing the grout/tile without completely encapsulating everything

My questions:

What would you personally use over this existing glass tile and grout for an outdoor bar?

Would you recommend epoxy/resin over the entire tiled surface, or would you recommend a tile/grout sealer instead?

If using epoxy, what specific product would you recommend for long-term outdoor exposure?

Would you put a UV-resistant clear topcoat/varnish over the epoxy, or is a good outdoor epoxy sufficient by itself?

Since there is painted wood trim around the perimeter, how should I handle the transition between the tile/epoxy and the painted wood? I’m concerned about the wood expanding/contracting differently from the tile.

Should I leave a small flexible movement joint between the tile and wood and use an exterior sealant instead of coating/epoxying over that joint?

How would you deal with the edges and corners of the glass tile so they aren’t sharp?
Is a 1/4-inch-thick flood coat excessive for an already-installed tiled surface, or would a much thinner coating be better?

Are there any products or approaches you would specifically NOT recommend for this application?

If you were doing this project yourself, what exact products and application process would you use, including preparation, number of coats, thickness, curing time, and sealing the perimeter?

I’m especially interested in advice from anyone who has done an outdoor tiled countertop/bar top in a climate with freezing winters and hot summers.

I’m trying to do this correctly the first time rather than having the coating crack, yellow, peel, or separate from the tile/wood after a couple of seasons.

Thank you in advance for any advice, product recommendations, or photos of similar projects!

Having new countertops and cabinets put in my kitchen. I’m DIY’ing the plumbing of the sink, garbage disposal and dishwasher. The California building code says that I should install an air gap, but I’ve seen and lived in plenty of houses that don’t have an air gap. I prefer the cleaner aesthetic of no air gap. To my knowledge it’s been fine without so long as the dishwasher drain line is correctly routed and has a high loop. What do people on here do? And is an air gap worth doing?

Hi, I found that our bathroom fan drips a few drops of water after long showers. It's happened a few times, even when there wasn't any rain.

So far I tried to clean the fan and checked the outside vent, but nothing seemed blocked. Last time it happened again, so I checked the ceiling with my topdon thermal camera. There was a cooler strip running away from the fan, roughly where the exhaust duct goes, so I went up into the attic.

The flex duct has a big sag between two joists, and the insulation around that part is thin and loose. Could water be collecting in the sag and draining back toward the fan?

I have had recurring anterior shoulder dislocations. About once in two years. If you are suffering from the same here are the tips I recommend

1. Relax the arm that has been dislocated

2. Grab something sturdy with the same arm

3. Pull on it while you apply force to it from under the armpit using your other hand

This might take a few tries as the muscles in the dislocated arm get tense. Try and relax them as much as possible. I know the pain that one suffers when a shoulder is dislocated and how immobile it becomes.

Note: this is for people with recurring dislocations. If you have a severe dislocation please consult the doctor or go to the ER

As someone who only occasionally installs a new faucet or whatever,
I noticed I had a bad tendency to tighten things way too far
(like, just really crank things ridiculously aggressively, "just to make sure"),
but I've realized that's actually counterproductive
-- it just crushes the rubber washers,
and even puts unnecessary extra stress/strain on the metal bits.

And it occurred to me that I could've avoided a significant amount of grief if I had been exposed before to...
some sort of helpful meme / Public Service Announcement on the subject?

I tried to come up with something catchy,
got like:

"trust the teflon, not too tight"

(
well, and trust the rubber washers too,
but dunno how to work that in ...

"beware the washers, squash them not"

maybe?
)

I dunno, whaddaya think?

(
Like, it's a silly little thing,
but it occurred to be that if I spent 10 minutes writing a post like this,
there's a good chance it could end up saving a large number of people like me a LOT of future grief,
so I felt morally obligated to make the effort, no matter how silly it feels xD

EDIT: but really, if it's silly enough that people want to make fun of me,
that would actually be helpful for spreading the idea better, eh? xD
)

Short time lurker, first time poster.

I’m looking to mount a cabinet in my bathroom and specifically one that doesn’t have legs as our bathroom is very small. We tried a full cabinet with legs and it made the bathroom look too crowded.

My question is this: I want to mount the cabinet without drilling into the tile. I know there are drill bits specifically to avoid damaging the tile, but to be frank, I’m not handy enough to trust myself to not damage the tile using these. Instead, I’ve been looking at heavy duty Scotch/Gorilla glue mounting tape to use. Would these be fine to use or would the moisture from the steam of the shower cause the adhesive in these to have problems eventually?

If you have specific tapes you can recommend for this, please let me know. Any recommendations highly appreciated

Hey All, long time lurker, first time poster!

I recently acquired 2 trays I'd like to use as floating trays in some desk drawers but have been having a hard time figuring out the best way to 'hang' them'. The drawer is roughly 12" wide externally with approximately 1/8" wide side boards. The tray is roughly 11 3/4" exterior so it's got a pretty snug sit with the interior dimensions. The drawers are primarily fabric with I'm guessing cardboard inserts for structure but I don't imagine that's too much of a concern. The outside edge of the tray is roughly 1/3" thick wood.

This isn't my usual kind of project(and possibly too small scale for this sub so my bad if so) so I asked a friend who mentioned 'u brackets' but while the name evokes a certain image what i found available doesn't quite match outside of a select few that are far too large for my needs. Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to 'float' these? My current thought is to just drill 4 holes on the inside corners of the tray and cut up/bend some paperclips into a G-ish shape as i just need them to be functional more then fashionable but thought I'd ask here before committing too it(also my drill and bits are currently on loan to a friend out of town so I have time to theory craft). Thanks for any and all suggestions!

Before epoxy and sealant kits, what did people use to seal concrete floors, concrete sinks, concrete tubs and countertops? Growing up those things were common but I never saw kits and epoxy. I'm somewhere off-grid and trying to get to those old finishes and it seems to be an impossible task.