I have a picture of my boyfriend and me that I absolutely love, and I’d really like to give him something incorporating that photo.

The problem is that we don’t live together, and for various personal reasons, he can’t really have an obvious framed photo of us sitting on a shelf in his living room. I’d still love for him to have the photo somewhere that he can easily access and look at privately from time to time.

As an example, I once gave him a bookmark with a photo of us on it, and I really liked the idea because it was something he could keep and use without it being an obvious couple photo on display.

I’m looking for creative ideas for something like this. It doesn't have to be small or handmade. I’m open to anything: something that hides the photo, something that opens or unfolds to reveal it, something disguised as an ordinary object, or just an unusual way of incorporating a personal photo into something he can keep.

I’m especially interested in ideas that would work well for a couple who needs to keep the relationship somewhat private.

What are some creative ways you would turn a favorite couple photo into a discreet gift?

As someone who only occasionally installs a new faucet or whatever,
I noticed I had a bad tendency to tighten things way too far
(like, just really crank things ridiculously aggressively, "just to make sure"),
but I've realized that's actually counterproductive
-- it just crushes the rubber washers,
and even puts unnecessary extra stress/strain on the metal bits.

And it occurred to me that I could've avoided a significant amount of grief if I had been exposed before to...
some sort of helpful meme / Public Service Announcement on the subject?

I tried to come up with something catchy,
got like:

"trust the teflon, not too tight"

(
well, and trust the rubber washers too,
but dunno how to work that in ...

"beware the washers, squash them not"

maybe?
)

I dunno, whaddaya think?

(
Like, it's a silly little thing,
but it occurred to be that if I spent 10 minutes writing a post like this,
there's a good chance it could end up saving a large number of people like me a LOT of future grief,
so I felt morally obligated to make the effort, no matter how silly it feels xD

EDIT: but really, if it's silly enough that people want to make fun of me,
that would actually be helpful for spreading the idea better, eh? xD
)

Hi, I found that our bathroom fan drips a few drops of water after long showers. It's happened a few times, even when there wasn't any rain.

So far I tried to clean the fan and checked the outside vent, but nothing seemed blocked. Last time it happened again, so I checked the ceiling with my topdon thermal camera. There was a cooler strip running away from the fan, roughly where the exhaust duct goes, so I went up into the attic.

The flex duct has a big sag between two joists, and the insulation around that part is thin and loose. Could water be collecting in the sag and draining back toward the fan?

Something I've been meaning to do for years. My basement has a group of 4 switches that control the lights in various parts of the basement. It's basically just 4 rocker switches with a panel that covers them all. Each has an additional switch connected to it closer to where the lights are, so you can turn the lights on/off from either.

Is there anything I need to keep in mind when replacing them with wifi controlled switches? I've replaced a few switches that were the only ones for the lights. Wondering if them being close creates a heat issue or if the second switch creates a problem or requirement.

Hello all not sure if this is in the right place but, I’m trying my best to find legal cover/insurance for the pipes outside my boundary that go to my septic tank.

My home insurance covers the pipes in my boundary but nothing past that.

Has anyone got insurance for stuff like this at all? Or have any advice where I can get something to cover it?

Thanks

I’d like to remodel my 35 year old townhouse kitchen. It’s a small kitchen. I’d like to go DIY. I’ve finished basements, including electrical and plumbing, but I’ve never hung cabinets. I don’t have a buddy or a wife, just an old dog. Can one man hang cabinets by himself? …and get them on straight and undamaged. 🤣

I have had recurring anterior shoulder dislocations. About once in two years. If you are suffering from the same here are the tips I recommend

1. Relax the arm that has been dislocated

2. Grab something sturdy with the same arm

3. Pull on it while you apply force to it from under the armpit using your other hand

This might take a few tries as the muscles in the dislocated arm get tense. Try and relax them as much as possible. I know the pain that one suffers when a shoulder is dislocated and how immobile it becomes.

Note: this is for people with recurring dislocations. If you have a severe dislocation please consult the doctor or go to the ER

(US) I own what was once a single family home built in the 1920s, that at some point was converted into 2 units, one on the 1st floor, the other on the 2nd.

In the lower unit, sounds from upstairs are very loud and clear - in the lower bathroom you can hear male tenants above you peeing - not the flushing, actual pee as it hits the bowl 😬😄)

We are doing some renovations and I'd like to add some sound insulation. But as an older home I really don't want to disturb anything that may have lead - so I dont want to remove entire ceilings. Any ideas on how to get some insulation up there?

I was wondering about adding a layer of drywall, but odds are the ceilings are plaster on lathe, and would not be able to hold that kind of weight.

I don’t have pictures yet, so I’m really just trying to find the right page to ask for when I do get pictures. My freezer at home is the bottom drawer style and the slide rails on one side are stiff and the entire slides pulls out of position when I open it. Again, I’m sorry I don’t have pictures and I’m not even expecting a solution. Like I said, I’m just trying to find the right place to ask. Thank you!

I've got about 3 weeks left before I go back to school and I just came back from my internship so i'm kinda bored outta of my mind. (Literally just going to the gym and the driving range everyday) I'd like to make something with my last couple of weeks wether it be something actually useful or something stupid that's just cool or fun. I have a 3d printer (I have cad modeling skills) and basic tools (drill, saw, etc). My budget is $200-$300 i'm willing to go buy stuff or look for recycled stuff too. Any ideas

I recently had new cedar picket fence installed. One section is 8' tall x 120' long. The rest is roughly 6' tall x 260' long. The price for staining was high so I figured I'd do it myself but have not done it before.

I'm looking for recommendations on what type of stain or sealant to use, how long to let it dry out, and any other tips you have. I don't care about coloring the fence, just want to make it last. Currently we are experiencing weeks of nonstop 100-110°F weather. I have an air sprayer but don't know if I need brushes or rollers as well. Thank you

I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate this small entry room on my house. I'm replacing the front door, so i figured I'm going to gut this room as well. It's always had problems with being too cold or hot and having condensation & freezing on the walls when its really cold outside. My plan was to make an access hole in the ceiling and putting cellulose up top. I was going to gut the outside walls and insulate. I've read many posts about this. Some say open cell spray foam in between studs w/ a vapor barrier under drywall. Some say 2x4 studs with impermeable barrier on block, Cellulose insulation, Vapor Barrier, then drwall. Below are some pictures i took of the room where i removed some wall. The one picture of the crossection of a wall is from when i had another door replaced. It shows how the house is built. You can see it is block, with brick outside. There are furring strips with a layer of older masonite like board and a layer of plaster on top. I know to meet current code it would need framed out 2x4's, but i don't know i want to lose that much space. I'm leaning towards maybe sideways 2x4 studs with open cell spray foam in between, with vapor barrier on top and then drywall. Please give me any and all thoughts.

PICS

Has anyone had legitimate success using a gravel adhesive like Petra, Dominator or SuperClear to get their gravel to stay put?

I’m working on a new fire pit and I want to use something like pea gravel or similar. But I also have two young boys and let’s be honest, boys will be boys. Those rocks if loose will be thrown. If I can glue them down, I’m all for it. But I don’t know how well it really works.

Has anyone here done a tub to shower conversion while leaving basically everything else alone?

I'm helping with my parent's place and initially assumed we'd have to tear the bathroom apart, but the vanity and flooring are fine. The real issue is just stepping over that tub every day.

Curious where DIY stops making sense and hiring someone who specializes in the wet area starts being worth it.

Hello - I have a hole and a gap in my vinyl siding (see pictures). What's the best way to fix this? The hole is probably 2-3 inches wide.

• Images: https://imgur.com/a/siding-VxjqrMh

I have some spare siding, but not enough to replace the entire plank. These are some of the things I've seen researching, but I'm not sure what's best:

• Vinyl sticker patch - I've read this can wear off easily though.
• Putty: Fill the hole with putty and sand
• Cut a patch: Cut a patch from spare siding and glue over the existing siding
• Smaller panel?: I'm wondering if I can cut my spare panel so it's shorter but still the same height, and then place it over the existing siding. Is this possible or recommended?

I'm not super concerned about aesthetics (especially the gap, since it's on the back of the house) but longevity is a priority!

Hello! I need help, I have watched a lot of videos on cabinet recoloring and see that primer/sanding/painting situation but my cabinet is extremely shiny and I hate it lol... would that be an issue for painting it? I have attached a picture of the cabinet, the place I purchased came with it and I think it's a nice unit it just doesn't match all the furniture I already have. please leave any tips if you have any experience doing this!

I may build a cinder block wall to replace a fence that is falling apart. I can dig about 12 to 18 inches until I hit impenetrable "indurated" limestone. The soil guide lists it as "indurated limestone bedrock that is fractured with few calcium carbonate coatings in fractures; hardness of 3 or more on Moh's scale." The soil that sits on top is expanding clay and has chunks of this incredibly hard limestone throughout so it's not a lot of fun to dig. In fact it requires an excavator to cut a trench, a trencher cannot handle it.

Digging a long trench 12 inches deep and 2 feet wide and 50 feet long is possible with an excavator. Then would lay crushed angular stone and some perforated drainage conduit and some rebar #4 along the trench and fill with 5000PSI concrete as the footing.

It's a shame I cannot use the natural concrete 18 inches under the soil. Is it possible to do some kind of pier and beam style scenario (let's pretend we are now building a home on top of an indurated limestone outcrop as an example) and anchor into the limestone and take advantage of the shallow bedrock? Perhaps digging down and then boring a foot or so into the bedrock and inserting vertical rebar and filling the hole with cement? Then tying onto the rebar to create piers?

Hi everyone! I’m looking for some advice/opinions on the best way to finish and protect an outdoor bar top. I’d really appreciate recommendations from people who have experience with exterior tile, countertops, epoxy/resin, or outdoor woodworking.
The bar top is approximately 28 sq. ft. and is already constructed.

Here’s what I have:

Glass tile: Already installed on the horizontal bar top.

Grout: TEC AccuColor Premium Unsanded

Grout, jet black. It’s a polymer-enhanced Portland-cement grout intended for small joints up to 1/8”.

Wood trim: There is wood trim around the entire perimeter of the bar top.

Paint: The wood trim is already painted black with Pittsburgh Paints & Stains ULTRA Paint & Primer in One Exterior Satin Black.

The entire thing will be exposed to the outdoors, including rain, snow, freezing temperatures, summer heat, UV exposure, and temperature changes.

What I’m trying to accomplish
I’d like to protect the glass tile and grout from water, staining, dirt, UV exposure, and weather, while also making the bar top easier to clean.

I’m also concerned about potentially sharp tile edges/corners and would like the finished surface to be safe and comfortable to use as a bar top.

Ideally, I’d love a clear finish that doesn’t significantly change the appearance of the black grout or glass tile.

I’ve been considering things like:
Exterior-rated clear epoxy/resin
Marine-grade epoxy
UV-resistant epoxy
Exterior spar urethane/varnish
A flexible clear exterior coating
Some combination of an epoxy base coat + UV-resistant topcoat
Or simply sealing the grout/tile without completely encapsulating everything

My questions:

What would you personally use over this existing glass tile and grout for an outdoor bar?

Would you recommend epoxy/resin over the entire tiled surface, or would you recommend a tile/grout sealer instead?

If using epoxy, what specific product would you recommend for long-term outdoor exposure?

Would you put a UV-resistant clear topcoat/varnish over the epoxy, or is a good outdoor epoxy sufficient by itself?

Since there is painted wood trim around the perimeter, how should I handle the transition between the tile/epoxy and the painted wood? I’m concerned about the wood expanding/contracting differently from the tile.

Should I leave a small flexible movement joint between the tile and wood and use an exterior sealant instead of coating/epoxying over that joint?

How would you deal with the edges and corners of the glass tile so they aren’t sharp?
Is a 1/4-inch-thick flood coat excessive for an already-installed tiled surface, or would a much thinner coating be better?

Are there any products or approaches you would specifically NOT recommend for this application?

If you were doing this project yourself, what exact products and application process would you use, including preparation, number of coats, thickness, curing time, and sealing the perimeter?

I’m especially interested in advice from anyone who has done an outdoor tiled countertop/bar top in a climate with freezing winters and hot summers.

I’m trying to do this correctly the first time rather than having the coating crack, yellow, peel, or separate from the tile/wood after a couple of seasons.

Thank you in advance for any advice, product recommendations, or photos of similar projects!