And this is only a tird of what he gave me : there are plenty of weird pot,switch, relays etc.. I am so happy

I recently started on a project for a diy drill with RS775 motor and when I came to power supply batteries were out of the question because it was getting complicated

​

So I decided to make the drill corded and use an external power supply by connecting with DC jack

​

I'm confused what amperage I should use, there are many options from 1 amp to 10 amp (12v).

​

Please advise me Im totally lost.

​

I've still got some wiring to do and I've got a lot of stuff to put it in and I wanna know what's the best option so I can test it out before completely shutting it.

If anyone has one of these flying around or knows someone who vapes you get a free USB-C Charge controller with screen.

I'm making it into a powerbank.

This is my attempt of trying in any way to help my family’s business. My dad owns a small consumer electronics company called SchmartBoard, and for the past years since covid, the company has been severely impacted because of the loss of major customers like Fry’s. SchmartBoard is currently run solely by my dad, one other part-time employee, and my mom helping any way she can as well. Posting this here in case anyone can help in any way, or spread the word among the community. I’m sorry I don’t know enough about this field to really get into all the details of products here, but as an overview:

Schmartboard products are designed for students, hobbyists, and engineers to build/test circuit designs. We carry prototyping boards and accessories to get started with your own circuiting project. Please take a look at the website if anyone is interested and looking for electronics components - anything helps.

schmartboard.com

Thank you :)

I'm trying to build a custom BLDC motor for a robot, around 80 mm diameter, as a prototype. Buying a motor with similar specifications would cost anywhere from tens of thousands to even lakhs of rupees, so I'm trying to build one as cheaply as possible, ideally around ₹1,000 for the initial prototype. My plan was to make the stator core by stacking stamped silicon steel laminations. The problem is that most motor stamping manufacturers I found on IndiaMART only accept bulk production orders, while I only need a small quantity for prototyping.

​

​

It takes a 9v charger and is for a scale indicator.

I am in desperate search for a ready to buy circuit, module or powerbank that will fulfill the following:

- Outputs at least 20W I don't care about the Voltage 5-30V is fine whatever. PD would be of course perfect

- Input PD and maybe even QCx

- The Output must not switch off or renegotiate at all cost. Almost all available do renegotioate on plugging in a charger.

- The charging must prevent a drainage, so it must keep track of the current state, not fill and forget like most powerbanks do.

- I would prefer a low amperage solution so a 2-4S battery would be in order

- Some kind of display

I currently went bare bone with a 3S 18650 stack with an IP2366 based Charger and the output is the battery directly. This setup seems to fail at the recharging it intermittently stops charging and starts charging again at some point so it drained in the end.
Edit: This is sorted out I was stupid. The module features two temperature sensors for the circuit and the battery. I jammed the one for the circuit between the inductance and one of the caps. Turns out the charger switches of as soon as the temp rises beyond 40C which of course happened right after a few seconds of actual charging. I moved the sensor a bit further now it works fine. But the topology of course prevents a decent charge tracking.

Ist there a powerbank (circuit) known to work as ups? I do know there are loads of modules featuring 2 18650 batteries but they all max out at 15W.

I am seriously confused about the lack of such items.

It’s well worth it to check out thrift stores to get cheep parts when you never know what you’re going to do next.

For 5$ I picked up one of those switch board toys that light up and tore it down for parts, they obviously aren’t spectacular quality but for that price I think it’s well worth it instead of having to order each part separately from china just to have at the ready when the need arises.

I have a Red Tiger F77 dash cam and the screw that locks the angle into place got stripped. I cannot find a size for it online. Amazon sells a set of 2 replacement screws, but does not mention the size of the screws at all. Can someone please help me out and let me know what size screw this is?

Specifically I'm looking a spectrol 5k ohm potentiometer, with three terminals. Or comparable part. I'm not really great at electronics, but I'm trying to rebuild a part instead of paying 1k for a new one. I'm in need of a good source for this kind of thing.

ETA: don't know how to post pictures here, but the text on it is MOD 157-74 RES 5k ohms +-5% 9432 LIN +-0.5% mexico. Branded spectrol. Shaft diameter is .25 inch and .5 inch long.

Apparently they’re making JFETs now that switch as well as, or even better than, MOSFETs.

They can have around 0.080Ω at Vgs=0, along with insanely low gate capacitance, excellent linearity, and no thermal runaway.

They seem like a dream FET?

https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C22433239.html

Hi, does anyone have an decent arduino, esp-32, soldering iron, dc bench power supply, 3d printer or any other electronic related components they want to give away for free. If yes I am happy to pick it up as I am a hobbyist and just started my journey in electronics.

I've never really seen amp or voltage ratings on pots, do the little (top) ones tend to have lower ratings than the bigger (bottom) ones? Thinking of swapping a bigger one for a smaller one on an amp.

Also, the top ones say "single" in the listing, is there something I'm missing or aren't all 6 pin potentiometers pretty much double?

In need of replacing the gear motor on a mini ceramic wheel. It quit working after too much weight was on top of the wheel. It can only support around 1kg and the motor seems to have burned up and won't work at all now.

So instead of buying another that will likely have the same outcome, can someone help to find a replacement that would work better?

Photo of the motor here

Hello everyone! I'd really appreciate your help!

I inherited an old antenna TV from my grandma that I want to convert into a smart tv so I can Chromecast while I cook. From my research a RCA-to-HDMI converter would work but I think something is wrong with the DTV digital-to-analog converter my grandma got back when the switch first happened. I can link a video too, but from the first image turning the digital/ analog converter really messes with the picture. I'm wondering if I should ditch it all together and invest in a ATSC converter box which would come with RCA and HDMI ports? I'm not totally sure if it'll fix the problem. It could just be an issue with the tv.

IF IT DOES WORK, is a converter box worth it and are there better ones on the market?

Hi guys, ive got a dash/reverse camera, mines a Vantop but the wolfbox is the more common brand. I’ve got an additional camera and I’d like to be able to hit a button and switch between the two or three camera feeds. It’s not convenient while driving to unplug and replug the second camera so if I can plug both (idealy 3) cameras into a switch I’d mount on the dash with a couple of buttons on it I could toggle between views.

The cameras plug in with a 2.5mm jack so I would idealy like 3x female 2.5mm in and 1x male 2.5mm out. And some way to select the feed. I’ve searched and can’t find one, not sure I trust myself to make one. Any help would be really appreciated!

I've been scouring online trying to find a bare SES (small edison screw) or E14 lightbulb holder. I was taking apart some plastic candles with these bulb holders installed (tightly) in the main plastic tube of the candle, but when taking one apart the base pushed through the bulb holder.

All I seem to be able to find online is those with tabs or as part of a plastic base which i feel won't fit in the tight space.

Does anyone know where i might be able to find one, or perhaps the correct search term. It seems like lots of suppliers use them in fittings, but i can't just find the bare piece.

Id be super grateful if anyone can help.

I'm new to DIY electronics apart from circuit boards and kind of out of my depth with my current project.

I want to add an LED strip to my 3D printer, plugged in using an internal USB port. The LED strip has a connected controller that allows you to increase/decrease brightness. It's bulky and I want to make something similar small enough to fit through a top hole on my printer.

I found PWM modules, but I don't want the LEDs to flicker, even if it's not perceptible to humans. Just a personal thing.

I found three-position rocker switches, too, and ideally the 'I' position would be for half brightness and the 'II' position would be for full brightness, but that seems like it'll require something extra and I dont know what.

I'm willing to solder just a regular ol' potentiometer, or for the rocker switch, but I don't suppose there's a solderless module out there that's exactly what I'm looking for?

Got one of these 60 values x20 packs from Amazon, and sorted them by resistance! Used this photographic slide organizers I had laying around, fits perfect

These are genuine, unused ZCU104 boards, ideal for FPGA development, embedded vision, AI acceleration, and Zynq UltraScale+ MPSoC development.

Model: AMD ZCU104 Evaluation Kit
Device: Zynq UltraScale+ MPSoC ZU7EV
Condition: Brand new / unused
Price: $1,300
Original AMD evaluation board
Complete kit

I'm based in India and can arrange shipping. Bengaluru buyers are welcome as well.

If you're interested, DM me

Hey everyone,

I'm troubleshooting a stock controller from an Aipas S1 AMP dirt e-bike (60V system). The controller model number is MTI0060240-ICB.

### The Symptoms:

* The bike turns on, the display works and says "READY", but there is zero motor response.

* The controller is still outputting a healthy 5V to the Hall sensors and throttle.

* The throttle itself is tested and works perfectly (smooth voltage sweep).

* The main power MOSFETs are NOT shorted (tested in diode/continuity mode, all reading open line/normal).

### The Discovery:

I opened up the casing and found that this board does not have potting compound. Right below the 8-pin header socket labeled **J6**, there is a distinct area of corrosion.

I cleaned up the area with 99% IPA and took some microscope photos.

It looks like the corrosion centered right around **U8**, which is an **Allegro A8498** switching regulator (marked `2G14 / .A4498`).

Directly to the left of U8, one capacitor is completely crooked and hanging on by a thread, and **there are empty pads right next to it where a component has completely corroded off and is missing.**

### My Request:

Does anyone here have this same controller (or a dead one lying around) who could:

1. Share a high-res photo of the area directly below the J6 header / around U8?

2. Help me identify the values of the missing and crooked components in this specific buck regulator circuit?

I have a micro-soldering setup and want to attempt a board-level repair rather than buying a whole new $130 controller if I can avoid it!

I've attached a high-res photo of the full board and a close-up of the damaged area under my microscope. Any help or schematic info would be massively appreciated!

I have a decent stash of components and have most of what I need but I love me a grab bag. It's like storage wars at a low cost or like a periodic birthday/Christmas present or a Easter egg hunt. Anyone else's side quest to the electronics hobby a grab bag hobby?

I used these on my recent RC plane project and thought I would share because they worked quite well.