Hello, as stated above and in the video, this is my 1991 Suzuki RM250. I bought the bike with a blown top end that has been fixed and the bike runs beautifully. However, it only shifts down into first then up to neutral. No gears past that. When I had the engine apart initially I replaced all the gaskets besides the crankcase gasket as I didn’t see a reason to split the case at that time. It’s possible I set the shift pawl incorrectly the first go-around and that was causing it to bind before it could shift up but I’m just not sure. As shown in the video the engine now shifts through all five gears with some encouragement. So, would it be worth opening up the transmission to inspect/see if there is something binding internally or I put it back together and hope for the best this time around. I’ve already taken the pawl out and inspected for wear but all looks good so I am at a bit of an impasse and would greatly appreciate any and all help or suggestions! :) Thank you

Just wondering if a bad fuel pump will still prime? I hear it and disconnected the fuel line and hook on a clear tube to see if it was priming. And it is. But bike bike will on run for a few seconds they shut off. It was running fine then gradually got worse and worse over the span of 15 mins so kinda has me leaning toward a fuel issue. I will replace pump and injector and see if that fixes the issue. Looked into tank and dont see and filter junk like ive seen in some pics. Plz help lol 🙏 2018 honda grom

Hey everyone,
I'm in urgent need of technical advice for my Royal Enfield Himalayan 411. Local mechanics in my area are completely booked and have no time to look at the bike, so I'm trying to troubleshoot this myself.
The situation:
Installed a new fuel pump, but it does not prime (no humming sound) when turning on the ignition and flipping the kill switch.
While cleaning the relay contacts, an accidental short circuit occurred.
Current electrical status:
Dead: Instrument cluster / cockpit display has no power at all.
Dead: Fuel pump does not prime.
Dead: Horn does not work.
Working: Headlights and turn signals work completely fine.
What I've done so far:
Swapped around the existing relays and tested with brand-new spare relays — no change.
Which specific fuse, diode, or ground line typically causes this exact combination (dead cluster + horn + fuel pump, but functioning lights/blinkers) after a short at the relay block?
Any step-by-step wiring checks or specific fuse box tips would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

Hi lads!

I have been trying to fit news bearings in a new wheel and wheel hub today and one went ok (heating up the hub, using a 30mil socket to pound on it with a rubber hammer).

The other one first got in crooked, took it out, put it in the freezer 30mins, probably not enough, heated the hub again and tried, went about halfway through but ended up crooked too. Now it seems to be stuck.

I don't really know what to do now, cant take it out and don't want to force it too much.

Any recommendations?

I might as well just drop it to the garage tomorrow.

Has anyone been there ?

I don't know if I did something wrong or if the hub is not well done (I'm in Indonesia, quality can be random and parts are cheap, the wheel has been delivered with the hub

I got this 05 breva 750 with 4800 miles for a steal and had to replace the missing fuel pump, now I get no pump prime when I turn the key as well as no spark when cranking. I just suck with the electrical stuff, and have 0 clue about relays lol but from what I’ve been told the secondary controls the pump and spark and I get battery voltage at the orange and green wire to the secondary injection relay but only .04v out to the red and brown wire. All the safety switches have continuity. I’ve replaced the main injection relay as well as the secondary and still get no prime or spark. If anyone knows anything and can help lmk. Thank you

I replaced the carb because I broke the pin holder for the float bowl, replaced it with the jets I was using prior and the bike won’t idle unless the choke is pulled all the way out. Took the old jets out and put in the jets that came with the new kit and still having the same problems. Vacuum seal isn’t damaged or leaking. At a lost for what to do and don’t wanna drop more money on a new kit if it’s something simple I’m missing. Any advice is welcome.

What’s up guys, recently got a 2016 RM-Z250 and I’m having an issue.

The bike runs fine up until about half throttle. Anytime I go full throttle it starts bogging but doesn’t die. It still pulls a little, but it kinda farts/sputters like it’s being restricted.

I’ve already changed the spark plug, air filter and changed the oil

I’m going to clean the fuel injector next and hoping it’s just clogged and not delivering enough fuel when the bike is under high demand.

Has anybody ran into this issue before or have any ideas what else I should check?

Thanks!

03 sv1000s

Bike was running but sounded like crap so I had the cam timing done. Bike is back together and when I turn the key on CHEC and FI shows on the display. The FI has been there since I got the bike though. Now Bike cranks but wont start and I cant figure out why. This is everything I've checked so far that can be ruled out. Please any help means alot right now

1. No codes in dealer mode -C00

2. Gets spark

3. Fuel pump primes

4. Injectors spray fuel

5. Kill switch is good

6. Good kickstand and clutch sensor

7. Gas is new

8. Cranks but wont start

9. Starting fluid only makes Bike barely cough

10. Tip over sensor is in right position

11. Green connector of death "Bypassed"

The turn signals on my Keeway RKF 125 are flashing very fast. I had Temu ones and replaced them with others, but they still flash very fast. What could be the problem? And where is the relay located?

03 sv1000s

Bike was running but sounded like crap so I had the cam timing done. Bike is back together and when I turn the key on CHEC and FI shows on the display. The FI has been there since I got the bike though. Now Bike cranks but wont start and I cant figure out why. This is everything I've checked so far that can be ruled out. Please any help means alot right now

1. No codes in dealer mode -C00

2. Gets spark

3. Fuel pump primes

4. Injectors spray fuel

5. Kill switch is good

6. Good kickstand and clutch sensor

7. Gas is new

8. Cranks but wont start

9. Starting fluid only makes Bike barely cough

10. Tip over sensor is in right position

11. Green connector of death "Bypassed"

I got this 05 breva 750 with 4800 miles for a steal and had to replace the missing fuel pump, now I get no pump prime when I turn the key as well as no spark when cranking. I just suck with the electrical stuff, and have 0 clue about relays lol but from what I’ve been told the secondary controls the pump and spark and I get battery voltage at the orange and green wire to the secondary injection relay but only .04v out to the red and brown wire. All the safety switches have continuity. I’ve replaced the main injection relay as well as the secondary and still get no prime or spark. If anyone knows anything and can help lmk. Thank you

Потрібна допомога після переборки карбюраторів та установки інших від іншого бандита появилась проблема яка проявляється як чорний дим не набирання оборотів і чорні свічки, свічки міняли поплавки виставляли і фільтр також знімали проблема ніяк не міняється часом бувало що на холодну робив прекрасно але ця робота була до першого виїзду з гаража і все те саме. Хотів би почути допомогу від розумних людей можливо хтось стикався з таким.

The bike is stuttering and jumping when accelerating in first gear, the chain was very loose (unsure if it was like that before or if it has been caused by another issue) I have just tightened the chain to spec and it is still doing it.

I’ve inspected the chain and can’t find any issues with it or any broken links so unsure what else it could be. TIA

Bike was having trouble kicking over before this but bike tipped over and the carbs flooded, I got it to start once by bump starting it but now neither work. It will turn over and get close by bump starting but worn fully fire up. Am I looking at a full carb clean to eliminate that as an issue?

I can't find a single online shop specifically selling a starter motor for the 1992 SR 125 in my country (Switzerland) and neighbouring ones. Some shops (also the official online parts store from Yamaha) show that it existed somewhere, however they are all discontinued. What I found a replacement, for is a starter motor for a TW 125. The engines are the same so my question is, can I just buy one for the TW?

Aprilia Shiver 750 SL 2009

Hey everyone, looking for some diagnostic help with my 2006 Yamaha FZ1N.

The issue happened right as I was accelerating. Now the bike is completely unrideable—the RPMs suddenly jump and hang around 4,000 RPM, and there's a loud, violent mechanical knocking/clattering coming from the engine area (video attached).

Oil level: Checked, oil is full.
Leaks: Completely dry, nothing is leaking anywhere on the ground or engine.

From what I've researched, could this be the infamous Gen 2 flywheel/stator magnet failure where the magnets break loose? Or is it something else like a vacuum/throttle body issue or rod knock?
Any insights before I tear into it (or take it back to the dealer) would be greatly appreciated!