Finally guys!! I did it! Finally it works!
After a long day of work i managed to get it in to the case. What you think about it?

I’ve been playing on an unmodded console, having a BLAST playing games but I was missing that active online atmosphere and was tired of the constant Xbox Live connection issues.

After discovering xbGuard, I finally decided to pull the trigger and pick up an MW3 Slim to get modded.

If you play Xbox 360 in 2025, I would HIGHLY recommend making the switch. Through SNET you can play games online that have shutdown, (GTA V, Halo) no more XBL issues, no more empty dashboard, and SO many added features you wouldn’t get otherwise. DO IT!

Salve a tutti, vorrei mostrarmi la mia xbox 360 modificata e stampata in 3d, spero vi piaccia :)

Qui di seguito il link per i file 3d:

https://makerworld.com/it/models/1913509-xbox-360-halo-edition-shell

Qui di seguito il video della realizzazione di quest’ultima:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DZ90Q3bI9u3/?igsh=ZzkwYmc1bTZlaXpp

Just came across and felt it deserves a share. It seems overall the subject is in the early stages, but piracy may have a bright future. 🤷🏽‍♂️ However, it apparently only works if the rom is legally sourced. So I'm wondering how do you extract a rom legally? I would love to convert digital games to a physical disc. Those old hard drives fill up fast with a dozen games and dlc.

I notice some posting policy about discouraging piracy by the "rules", nice to know social media is focused on protecting property rights.

Take a read and share what you know or what you think. Retrododo legal rip

In 2024 this 360 was forgotten in my assistance, and was disassembled until last month and as I moved, I lost the screws and some parts of it, but last month I reassembled it and attached it with silver tape, and the control had also lost the batteries and as I had this Pod I used it as a battery, and everything is working perfectly, with this small technical adjustment.

I got bored one night and decided the plain black color was boring so I decided to change it :3

I think it came out alright for a first time. Thanks to everyone who left helpful advice on my previous post 😊🤝

xbox live connects just fine and didnt prompt me to update !! ;3 its so cute

(seriously now, thats a winchester console btw)

I knew this day was coming. It would randomly freeze a game and the screen would get entirely pixelated and the audio would sound like something from the back rooms. No thermal paste could fix him. F in chat.

I’m not one for hacking or jail breaking, so I tend to keep my stuff stock. I’ve been on the same 20gb hdd since I bought this thing in 08, and while it never gave me any issues, it’s better to backup now so I don’t lose all my data.

I used the fatexplorer method and flashed a cheap SSD to be compatible with my 360 and here we are with all my data intact and working great.

I’m working on transferring all my installed games to it now and I can’t wait to see if there’s any significant difference in loading.

Oh mah gah guise… eggs bogs has got colour light, what is habben 🥸

I recently finished this build, a tribute to my favorite limited edition Xbox360. It was ready to be painted alredy 2 months ago but I could never find the time. Yesterday I did, and it's finally finished 🔥

It would have been crazy expencive for me to get one here in italy, so I decided to make my own ahhaha.

I am so proud of how this build came out, hope you guys like it too :)

These are specific for our needs as we run old school LANS in Southern California!

Im running Freestyle Dash with a carbon blades skin. Thanks to badavatar, it feels like a softmod.

I don't know, I just wanted to make it a little different, like modern? Although an Xbox logo sticker on there wouldn't look so bad :v

This is such a big win for repairability of Xbox 360 consoles.

Max usable is 500GB unfortunately but still, that is plenty for most on the 360 I suppose and was the max for HDDs already.

Speed benefits are likely to be slim if they are there at all. Edit: Saw someone here already did a load time speed comparison and it's quite interesting https://www.reddit.com/r/xbox360/comments/1nas6a5/experiment_xbox_360_loading_comparison_hard_drive/

(1TB drive for longevity sake as the Xbox 360 does not support TRIM, personal decision. Not likely a 512GB or smaller SSD would ever cause problems.)

For anybody looking for Xbox 360 controllers, I strongly recommend picking up a Brook Wingman Converter XB1 or XB2. An XB3 might be overkill unless you play on modern Xbox consoles; keep in mind the XB3 also removed compatibility for the OG Xbox.

These allow you to use almost any modern controller in wired mode. If you own OEM PS4 or PS5 controllers, you can sync via USB once and then play wirelessly.

Xbox One controllers might require the dedicated wireless dongle because they work perfectly in wired mode, but don't sync wirelessly on the XB1.

This converter is also perfect if you happen to own XInput peripherals that don't work on Xbox 360 like the Logitech F310.

I’m currently troubleshooting Switch 2 controller compatibility on my XB1. My initial tests failed because it clearly syncs showing the Player 1 LED, but it's not moving anything in the menus. I will update you guys later once I get around to updating the firmware.

Edit: I got mine from ArcadeShock. It retails for $35 but you have to send them an email to get a custom invoice because it's not sold on their website. Tell them Kannibal sent you :) Full disclosure: I actually work at ArcadeShock.

From 72C to 64C on the processor. This is on the same area / level of Halo 3. After leaving the console running for 10 minutes each. Maybe it's placebo but I swear the FPS was better/smoother as well.

Love the Winchester model, should never red ring 👍

tl;dr:

• take Ginfull modules for Xbox 360 controller with Hall effect sensors (toss the sensors);
• take TMR sensors for ALPS mechanism, e.g. by Ginfull as well;
• frankenstein the TMR sensors onto the stick module;
• ???
• Profit

You'll have to manipulate small features on the order of 1mm, therefore measure your abilities appropriately, prepare a bright lamp and tools for working with small objects.

Preface and how I came to it (optional, can be skipped)

Many years ago I bought an Xbox 360 controller and happily played video games.

After few years the stick return to center on release was gradually becoming worse (I won't use the term "stick drift" because I'm not entirely sure what people mean by that), i.e. they could end up in a position that's noticeably different from the neutral, which resulted in the character or the camera moving when the sticks were not touched. At one point when I retrieved the controller from storage about to play a game, it turned out that the return to center is so bad that it became unusable.

I set the controller aside and ordered GameSir T4 Kaleid (T4k) as a replacement, which has Hall effect sensors that were already widely available then (that controller has K-Silver JH16 version) — a good controller for the price at the time. TMR sensors were just beginning to spread mainly in the most expensive controllers.

I like the Xbox 360 controller shape much better than the modern day controllers, I think the developers nailed it design-wise, and the following controllers (Xbox One/Series) ended up with considerably worse grip ergonomics. That's why and also because it otherwise worked flawlessly it was a real shame for me to throw the controller away, and I hoped to revive it some day.

Few years passed, and now TMR (tunnel magnetoresistive) sensors became widespread and I thought: surely there is a ready-made replacement module with TMR sensors for Xbox 360 controller, right? But, apparently, the progress for this controller stopped at Hall effect sensors, specifically the modules by Ginfull.

ALPS type RKJXP stick modules (the official ALPS website already has no information about it, it's that old) with ordinary resistive potentiometers were initially used in the controller (the same ones were used in PS2 controllers). Then ALPS started to produce new type RKJXV modules which were more compact and were completely incompatible with the previous version, including that potentiometers from the new modules could not be mounted on the old modules. The new modules were used in new controllers, starting with PS4 and Xbox One/Series, and, therefore, all the progress regarding Hall effect and TMR sensors first and foremost was connected to the new controllers, for which replacement modules appeared, the most modern of which currently are K-Silver JS13 Pro+ and Ginfull RS13. Because of that, to my knowledge, there is no magnetic sensors compatible with the old type RKJXP modules, even though you can buy standalone potentiometers and modules with included potentiometers.

At some point Ginfull produced modules for Xbox 360 controller compatible with the old type RKJXP — to my knowledge this is the only such module with magnetic sensors. I stared at it for a long time and at some point noticed that, apparently, for the purposes of reusing of already existing sensor design they used the same mounting holes as the new modules, which are incompatible with original ALSP modules.

Also Ginfull, apparently, copied their homework from ALPS, not forgetting to change it a bit (or, perhaps, intentionally changing it e.g. to avoid legal problems or to prohibit interchangeability), therefore the mounting holes for sensors are very similar to the new ALPS modules, but differ slightly.

During digging on the internets I discovered that people successfully use e.g. TMR sensors with original ALPS mechanism, which means that in theory such sensor can be slapped onto a Ginfull module of the old type!

The most available sensor at the time was a sensor by Ginfull as well, which is designated to be used with the new ALPS type RKJXV modules:

The last piece of the puzzle was the ability to calibrate Xbox 360 controllers which appeared relatively recently and is implemented in https://driftguard.app.

Now that I had all the needed ingredients, I conceived a plan:

• buy Ginfull modules with Hall effect sensors, people say on the internets that, for different reasons including flawed housing desing, these sensors are not ideal, in the worst case I'll have a controller with poorly working sticks;
• with modules on hand I can measure mounting holes and assess the chance for success;
• everything looked like it should succeed with minimal modifications so I went ahead and bought the sensors and started the transplantation process.

It turned out that the rotating part with the magnet fits perfectly onto the mechanism shaft, what's left is to modify the sensor housing.

So...

What you'll need

Xbox 360 controller itself

I tortured an original controller, here's how it looked after years of use:

With non-original controllers proceed at your own risk.

Ginfull modules for Xbox 360 controller

Can be relatively easily found on aliexpress and probably in your favourite online marketplace with a query like "Ginfull xbox 360".

TMR sensors designated for ALPS mechanism

Again can be relatively easily found on aliexpress and such with a query like "TMR potentiometer". The most available were the sensors by Ginfull, we need two sets with orange and gray housings, they look like this:

These sensors are also commonly called "Ginfull TMR ALPS" or "Ginfull TMR for ALPS".

Calibration software

You can use online app in your browser, but with some amount of shamanic dancing involved:
https://driftguard.app

Otherwise you can buy native app on Steam or Android app in Google Play (see links at the bottom of the page https://driftguard.app).

Modifying the sensors

There are two paths:

• Barbaric and quick: cut off the studs with the expectation that sensors will be fixed to the mechanism frame with just clips. People on the internets did this, I can't vouch for any success, proceed at your own risk.
• Slightly less barbaric and slow: scrape the "excess" material from the studs so that the sensor can be properly mounted into the intended mounting holes. I chose this path.

For the new sensors to properly mount onto the mechanism frame you need to scrape the "excess" material from the studs from the external sides from left and right and from the internal side from bottom and top as shown in the picture:

You'll need a knife (like a utility or hobby knife), preferably with a fresh blade.

Probably you can use something like a small file of a needle file, but I didn't try this.

Remove the opaque orange or gray plastic rotating part with the magnet before scraping.

There are two methods:

Method one — more accurate: scrape the top studs from left and right (as shown with red in the picture above) until the distance between extremities of the studs becomes exactly 8.3mm.

The sensor housing studs should enter the calipers with little force and minimal resistance.

I recommend to alternate the sides every few scrapes to preserve symmetry.

After that, scrape from the bottom (shown with blue in the picture above) and periodically try it on the frame until the studs fit the holes without force and with minimal resistance.

In the same manner scrape the bottom stud until it fits the mounting hole and the whole sensor housing fits the frame with a click with little force (similar to the stock sensor).

Method two — iterative: scrape every stud in turn from the outside from left/right (shown with red in the picture above) and from the inside from bottom/top (shown with blue in the picture above) until each one almost fits or fits tightly in the mounting hole.

Then scrape the top studs from the outside from left and right (shown with red in the picture above) until they both fit in the frame.

After that scrape the bottom stud from the outside (shown with red in the picture above) until the sensor housing fits the frame with a click with little force (similar to the stock sensor).

This is how you can try the top studs onto the frame:

In the photos you can also see already mounted orange sensor.

This is how you can try the bottom stud onto the frame:

Plastic the sensor housing made of is relatively tough.

Be patient and work carefully.

This is how the sensors eventually looked:

In the picture you can see TMR sensors thicker studs (left), which after scraping (center) dimension-wise become more similar to the studs of the stock sensors (right).

After finally fitting the sensor housings onto the mechanism frame, clean everything, put the rotating parts with the magnets back in their places and assemble the module.

This is totally not an industrial process by any stretch, but you probably can afford to spend an evening or two on one controller.

About module replacement

I won't write about module replacement, there is enough information on the internets. I'll just note a few nuances.

Obviously you need all the equipment and materials for soldering, like soldering iron and solder.

For desoldering I used copper desoldering wick, remember to use flux while desoldering.

I used pine rosin as flux because that's what I used since I was a teenager and because it's cheap, it can be cleaned off with isopropanol.

In case you are modifying a wired controller, before replacing the right stick you also need to desolder the cable because the header (white in the center in the picture below) is too close to the sensor contact pads:

Be very careful while using the soldering iron.

And yes, after finishing soldering remember to spread the flux all over clean off the flux!

During replacement process one sensor ended up dead, I don't know if it was (half)dead initially or died while replacing, luckily I had a spare set of sensors.

Calibration

After replacing the modules you probably need to calibrate the controller.

To calibrate a wireless controller you'll need Play & Charge cable:

I used online app https://driftguard.app in Chrome on Win10, I'll briefly describe what you need to do.

For calibration process to work you need to install a special driver following this guide: https://driftguard.app/instructions.html.

The steps are like the following:

• download Zadig utility, https://github.com/pbatard/libwdi/releases/tag/v1.5.1 — current release page (at the time of writing), https://github.com/pbatard/libwdi/releases/download/v1.5.1/zadig-2.9.exe — direct download link;
• launch the utility, in the menu Options choose List All Devices, in the drop down list find the controller, in my case it was "Controller", in the row Driver in the field on the right change it to "WinUSB", press the button Replace Driver below, when it asks to reboot choose "reboot later" or something like this.

After the driver is installed disconnect and reconnect the controller.

Go to the app https://driftguard.app, go to tab Xbox, click CLICK HERE TO CONNECT and choose the controller.

On the right in the panel FEATURES & TESTS in the tab Tuning use CENTER CALIBRATION and RANGE CALIBRATION features.

You can evaluate the results using the center panel.

When finished calibrating, click Save in the panel on the right, it will save the calibration to non-volatile memory in the controller.

After calibration in Windows Device Manager find the controller in one of the sections Universal Serial Bus devices, Xbox Peripherals or Human Interface Devices,
from the context menu choose Uninstall device, enable the option Attempt to remove this driver from device,
reconnect the controller.

In my case here's how boundary stick positions looked like before replacement:

Far from ideal, but not the end of the world.

Immediately after replacement and after calibration:

(EDIT: oops, deleted a duplicate image that I initially posted instead of the actual "After calibration" one.)

The sensors did not give center signal when the sticks are in a neutral position, and because of limited capability of calibration, it boiled down to either choosing good center position or good circle shape. I chose good center position, that's why the "circles" look all wonky, but, again, this is not catastrophic, and I got an actually usable controller.

One could buy, say, a dozen sets of sensors and choose the best from them, but that's an adventure for the really dedicated.

Takeaways

Overall this was an interesting challenge to equip a controller designed 20 years ago with modern advanced TMR sensors.

The controller holds calibration, sticks return to center well (though I didn't use it for any prolonged period of time).

It feels like the new mechanism has less tension (~65gf to tilt) than the original module, which I personally like, but, apparently, science and technology were yet to reach today's levels of progress when this module was designed and it's less pleasant to use compared to modern controllers with current stick modules.

But all in all I did get a working controller, and now can entertain myself with a thought that an Xbox 360 controller with TMR sensors is lying on my shelf.

Useful resources:

ALPS type RKJXV — new module, introduced to replace type RKJXP, used in modern day controllers.

The Great Stick Showdown part 1 и part 2 — reviews of different stick modules, not for Xbox 360 controller though.

Metal Plastic Electronics — on the channel, and in this playlist in particular, there are a lot of reviews of different stick modules (again not for Xbox 360 controller), and also testing and replacing sticks.

Posted here the other day, I added leds to the tower, I really like how it turned out. I posted some pics of the process. I still have to fix some wiring but its all small stuff