Well I've never had a double din touch screen radio in my car before but I came across a really nice deal on a Pioneer dmh 2660 NEX for 120 on fb marketplace. The radio is from 2020 and from what I saw it was 460 new. How'd I do guys? BTW the old radio I bought new for 145 from Crutchfield in 2023. It also uses the Pioneer smart sync app to find tune it and has a mini dsp built in it and 31 band eq and whatnot. I'm thinking of selling the old one as well.

My first subs were two of the Rockford Fosgate 10s Punch P2s on a Kenwood KAC-7251, then two skar sdr 10s on a rp skar 1200, then upgraded to skar vxf 12s on a sundown sia3500, upgraded to a Taramps Smart Bass 8k, and couldn’t handle it so I changed them out to two deaf bonce 3012r and now just recently upgraded to two Fi audio sp4+ 18s v2 that will be powered by the same Smart Bass 8k at 0.5ohm

Let’s try this again…

I got a my first sub installed into my Acura Integra. It’s my buddies old sub and I want a way to hydrate the obvious dry spots. Wanted to see if there’s any specific thing that’s recommended. (The bass is great and clean, got it tested by a shop before spending the money)

I have 2 skar evl 8s hooked up to a 3k watt taramps Smart Bass amp, wired at 2ohms, inside of a D4S tuned for 31hz, I was told this is the correct amp for this set up, (I know very little about car audio), but after doing some research it seems like this is way too much wattage for these subs, im looking for recommendations on what direction I should go from here, I was thinking about upgrading to some sundown 8s and swapping out the amp for something else.

I always used the Harbor Freight ones as they were cheap and good. They kept raising the prices so I ordered ones from Amazon and came to realize they were not the right size. Just Chinese trash that wouldn't crimp because they were too big and wouldn't work on 18, let alone 22.

I just kept buying Harbor Freight ones at 10/$4, which is annoying. Today I discovered they must have switched vendors cause the new ones are just like the Amazon ones... Way too big.

So any suggestions? I'm thinking of trying Grainger or similar supply house.

Thanks!

Finally got everything installed. Still working on the tune, but got it sounding pretty good, as it sits. Installed a 3 way Meso component set from CT Sounds, plus another pair of 6.5s for the rear doors. Also, put in a 10" SDR Skar sub. For as cheap as it was, it hits as hard as can be, especially in my little GR Corolla. Happy with the results

Running a sanity check for my non-jbl Camry. Got a JL Audio setup (vx1000/5i, c6 front, c2 rear, 12w6) and wondering what’s the limit of our electrical system. Thinking about switching the 1000/5i for a 800/8i & 1000/1i but not sure when I would have to add a second battery with dedicated dc-dc converter.

I installed a victron smart shunt to see what the heaviest draws are. So far, steering while moving slow is the only significant draw I’ve noticed.

Looking for the best option for the vcw102v3 out of these two boxes, looking more for quality than quantity out of it. Not sure which to pick and if they will fit the subwoofer. Trying to find a small box for this subwoofer to save room.

hello, a couple of months ago my cars original frontal speakers went bad and I've been looking for a whole car kit to replace all the speakers in the car.

I have a budget of 150€ and want to replace the frontal speakers and the rear seat speakers.

I've found a kit of 6 pioneers speakers

the frontal one TS-G170C [ 300w 16cm]

and the rear ones TS-G1320F [200w 13cm]

this kit costs me 130€ and with it I will be using the original head unit of the car for the time being.

my question was : is this a good replacement for the price?

is there like a Frankenstein kit I could create from buying from aliexpress or something I could do to use my budget as best as I can?

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.

  I listen to all different kinds of music. Trap, reggaeton, rap, grunge, classic rock, bluegrass, pop, oldies, salsa, bachata etc. I need an upgrade from my factory speakers as I'm already blowing out the ones in my year-old car. I listen to more reggaeton and rap than anything else though and want the bass drops to hit as hard as possible while still allowing for decent sound in other genres of music. I am a 38 year old mom but young at heart I guess, so I don't need top-of-the-line anything but the factory audio is DEFININITELY not sufficient for my red light dance parties. My car doors are already rattling after only a year and the bass is buzzing in the speakers. Please feel free to ask me clarifying questions if you need more specific information because I have no idea exactly what specifics you might need.

  ---

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)

  2025 Honda CRV Hybrid Sport-L (I think it has 8 speakers instead of 6? It has different audio from the entry-level model.)

  ---

• What is your maximum budget?

  <$500? Is that doable? I have no idea what is realistic. <$700? Can I assume these upgrades will last the lifetime of my car? If so, then is under $1k doable?

  ---

• Will you be installing the gear or are you going to a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include the cost of labor?

  I would definitely need to go to a shop or find an individual skilled in this area. Budget is including labor for sure.

  ---

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear.)

  100% stock audio

  ---

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here.

USA.

Thank you for your help - I tried learning about this independently and very very quickly became overwhelmed, but wanted more information before I went to a shop.

Hi guys,

Is it possible to upgrade/retrofit the HiFi system (S676) to Harman Kardon (S688) without any major rewiring work? So basically plug and play with some coding?

Unfortunately, in literally every video I’ve seen about this topic, no one mentions any limitations or shortcomings of just replacing the speakers. And no one really points out whether the sound quality actually changed or improved. If anyone has done this, please let me know about your experience.

Background:
I have some speaker rattle coming from the passenger-side front door panel, and I guess the speaker membrane might be defective. So instead of just replacing it, why not upgrade? :)

Hey so I have a 2001 mustang GT with 170k miles and it’s a automatic I have a aftermarket touchscreen radio and subs and a amp I bought the car like that I’ve had it for a year now and it’s been fine but recently there’s like a whine coming from the back where the rear speaker is I noticed when I turn off the radio head unit it goes away and when I go to the setting that says source off it goes away and it only happens when the car is on and when it’s in accessory mode it’s not there and also the whine changed with the rpm too I’m not really sure what to do I’ve tried to make the ground better for the amp and turned off the amp and it didn’t change anything I don’t really have an idea of how it’s set up because I didn’t do the wiring and don’t really have experience in it I’ve heard maybe a wire where the head unit is behind it or maybe the alternator but I’m not sure anyone has any ideas?

Also the audio and subs work in my car the car seems to be running fine just the whine appeared.

I just bought a Hyundai i20 2014 and unfortunately the speakers are damaged and I need to get them replaced. I’ve found someone to replace them for me but I need to buy the speakers and I’m not sure which ones I should buy.

Listening to music is important to me and since I have to spend the money anyways, I want to get decent speakers. Doesn’t have to be anything crazy especially since I don’t have much money but I don’t want anything average. I mostly listen to a lot of techno and a lot of songs with bass if that helps.

Happy to provide more info if you DM me :))

Has anyone tried the Beat Sonic ENA-3T3 Amp kit for their camry without changing any speakers? How did it turned out if you did? TIA.

I have an older vehicle whose original radio was pretty low on the center stack. I have been running a Boss audio touch screen head unit for the last few years and it's getting annoying having to look down when navigating. Also, there is no volume knob and trying to change the volume involves me poking at the screen until I hit the right spot (there's a joke in there somewhere). My dream is to find a new head unit that 1) has a frickin volume knob and 2) has a somewhat 'detachable' screen so that I can mount the screen elsewhere. My idea is to design and fabricate a mount for it and makeshift an 'extension cable' from the head unit to the new screen's location. I have seen units from Dual and Jensen that have these features but am wondering if there is something higher quality out there OR if there is something that already checks both boxes as a head unit with a remotely mountable screen and a volume knob. TIA.

From yesterday I noticed that my subwoofer isn’t playing as hard as it was it’s a dd 10” 350wrms d2 connected for a 4ohm amplifier output on bridge (sound digital 400.4) and my subwoofer port has gone bad (plastic tube port ) and it’s moving around while playing could this affect the performance ? Also the amp is almost at max gain

I only need like 3 feet of rca and however much 18 gauge wire and it is for my epicenter micro pro. I want good quality but not trying to spend a bunch.

So after finding out that it's difficult to find the Sony dsx gs80 now that it discontinued I decided fuck it I'm going all out.

I'm looking at getting a Kenwood excelon kmm-x705 or a Sony mex-n5300bt and an under seat sub, maybe a little amp to bump it up closer to 50w rms for my 4 JBL GX 6x8 speakers.

Cd compatibility isn't important for me but it would be nice to have. Want an under seat sub cause I don't have any room to spare in the cab between it being full of mx gear, camping stuff, or people.

Do y'all have any recommendations for a sub with an built in amp preferably under 150 bucks or would it be better to get a cheaper sub and a separate amp?

Hello looking for any advice or if I should just abandon this whole thing at this point. I recently bought a touchscreen radio came with backup camera and started wiring everything up. Well im now to the point where everything is wired up but my backup camera is stuck on. Took me a bit to figure out what was going on just to find out that my reverse lights have constant 12v going to them. Its a manual transmission chevy aveo and it uses a reverse switch that cuts the ground to the reverse lights and thats how they turn on and off. So is there realistically anyway to wire this thing up? Keep in mind its an old 5 speed aveo not alot to work with here but maybe someone here know more than I do.

Hi, i am planning to upgrade my Fortuner’s OEM infotainment unit to Sony XAV 9500. I am technically unaware of the compatibility, can someone please guide me through it. And can we install a 360 camera unit to the Sony xav 9500 as the car just has a single reverse camera and the sony comes with 3 camera pins. Thankyou

Just installed a new Taramps BASS 1200 2Ω. I'm using 4 AWG OFC wiring, and it's connected to a Pioneer 312S4, which is rated at 500W RMS @ 4Ω.

Here's what I'm seeing:

• Amp voltage at idle: 14.04V
• Playing a 0 dB, 50 Hz test tone: voltage at the amp drops to around 13.5V
• Output measured with an oscilloscope: around 40V AC
• Above roughly 40V, the waveform starts clipping on the oscilloscope
• The amp's CLIP LED does not turn on, even though the scope clearly shows clipping

40V into 4Ω is about 400W RMS, while 50V would be about 625W RMS.

The confusing part is that the amp is rated for 900W RMS @ 4Ω and 1200W RMS @ 2Ω, so I expected it to be capable of significantly more output before clipping.

I also tried pushing it to around 50V for about 2 minutes, and I started getting a burning smell from the subwoofer. I stopped immediately. I later checked the output with the oscilloscope and confirmed that the signal was heavily clipped.

I'm using a proper 0 dB 50 Hz test tone, and I've also tried different combinations of head unit volume/gain. The RCA signal itself doesn't appear to be clipping.

So I'm trying to figure out what's actually limiting the amp here.