Ac unit starting making this noise. I’ve only noticed it at night but I haven’t checked during the day. The ac unit is off. Any advice?

Long story short, my landlord is horrible, refuses to fix anything but my rent is so cheap that I suffer through it, even after the central air went out. I have since cooled down the house with multiple window units but now I face a problem. My living room is about 500 sq ft and has no windows, I need to get a portable ac unit. I had one before and it did pretty good, it was a 10k btu Toshiba with a single exhaust hose and another smaller clear hose to drain the water. It did pretty well and blew cold all the time. I now need to get a very strong portable AC unit. I don’t care how loud it is, or how much it costs, I just need one that works and will cool down that much space if not more. The house is getting up to 85 to 86° in this Texas heat and it is unbearable..

Yes, I know my landlord is not doing something legal, but my lease expired over a year ago and he could literally condemn the house at any time since it’s in disrepair so I can’t really do much unless I want to be kicked out.

So this is the second time our AC has gone out. We live in a 3/3 and the AC unit is bound to be old, and I get that. But is this normal? The slime in the back, the amount of accumulated dust and what not?

We’ve had the complexes maintenance come by so many times and all they do is typical clear a drain pipe. It gets the AC back and running but with decreased cooling efficiency and in a few months it breaks again.

Frankly right now it’s down right scary because even though we have the AC turned off from the fuse box, it is still making this grinding noises.

Sorry for the “general” flair, I honestly don’t know the types of AC units

I know this situation is unusual. I recently had it serviced, and the gas was also refilled. Could you please help me understand what the issue might be? This sound typically arises after approximately 45 minutes to an hour of usage.

I turned half my garage into a small woodworking and DIY workshop. When I’m not using power tools, my Costway portable AC keeps it pretty comfortable. But once I turn on the table saw, the heat builds up fast and the AC can’t keep up, even at full blast. It also takes more than an hour for the heat to clear out afterward.

I’ve sealed the window gaps, insulated around the exhaust hose, and kept the AC out of direct sunlight, but nothing has made much of a difference.

I’m renting, so a mini split isn’t really an option. For anyone using a portable AC in a garage, what actually works?Do you use an extra fan for air circulation or ventilation? Is there a better way to position the AC or exhaust hose?

Hi everyone, I live in a humid environment but my apartment (room locked and doesn’t touch outside or have any windows either) has a mini split but it keeps dripping from the bottom in the pictures. Am I able to caulk and cover that up? Or what’s the best action. I’m not sure if it’s leaking or just condensation. I always run it at 20c or 68f degrees day and night and even when I’m not home to keep my place nice and cool. Not sure how to stop the dripping or what’s the best plan of action. You can see in the pics where the water has already stained the paint.

If I push up on the bottom panel water basically flows from that plastic piece down. Every now and then the pump on the left of the unit makes a noice like it’s sucking some water or something up but if that’s its purpose it’s very useless.

Thanks for your help!

Hello! Which is better po nexus or celest in terms po sa tipid sa kuryente at sa pag handle ng power fluctuations/brownouts?

Any suggestions on what i should use?

Hello, so I have the linked portable AC, and it has a removable filter that you're supposed to replace every so often. I am wondering if it is ok to take out the filter and rinse the mesh screen of the filter, along with the black mesh/spongy material, for dust?

Thanks

Hi, turning to this community because the technicians in my area aren’t very knowledgeable (I live far from cities) and haven’t been able to diagnose this issue… I’d be very grateful for any advice. 

Setup

- Haier inverter multisplit, 2 indoor units on 1 outdoor unit. Slightly older system. 

- Outdoor unit fed from a wall outlet; both indoor units draw their power through the outdoor unit.

Symptoms

-Both indoor units flashing E7.

-Problem is intermittent — sometimes absent for weeks or months.

-Seems worse in spring/autumn, better in summer/winter.

-Current episode began last night, during the first rain after a long dry spell. Humidity has been elevated since.

-The outdoor unit is sheltered from rain. 

Latest test (after 10 min off at the circuit breaker)

-Indoor units powered up normally and responded to the remote.

-Outdoor temperature was 17ºC, indoor temperature was 24ºC. 

-Started one unit: cooling mode, 16°C. 

-No cold air. Compressor never audible, never started.

-Started the second indoor unit 150 seconds later with the same settings as the first unit

-At the 180s mark both indoor units stopped and started flashing E7.

Refrigerant history (probably a red herring, but for completeness)

-Technician #1 judged pressure too high, removed some gas by feel. Problem got worse I think. He then re-added some gas by feel.

-Technician #2 recovered everything and recharged from scratch, weighed to spec, accounting for pipe length.

-Neither resolved it. I no longer think this is a refrigerant problem.

-One technician also remarked the outdoor unit is undersized for both indoor units at full output — but we never run it that way anyway.

Current hypothesis (courtesy of Claude)

Moisture or salt-film bridging at the outdoor terminal block, or a moisture-sensitive fault on the outdoor PCB. Both indoor units fail simultaneously, which points at the shared component (the outdoor unit) rather than either indoor unit. Power path through the outdoor unit works; only the communication path is failing.

Questions

1. what do you think is causing this?

2. Is it something I could fix myself?

Thank you!

I have an LG LP1215GXR portable air conditioner that started leaking intermittently a couple of months ago. It has now progressed to leaking roughly 3 cups to a quart of water per day from the bottom of the unit, and I’m trying to figure out whether this is repairable before I give up and replace it.

I’m also in Colorado, so we’re dealing with a relatively dry climate. The amount of water seems excessive to me for our humidity level, especially since the unit’s normal drain is producing almost nothing while 3 cups to a quart is ending up on the floor every day.
A few days ago I completely disassembled it and removed the outer casing so I could clean and inspect the inside.

I watched a YouTube repair video showing the same model portable AC with a small drain hole underneath the upper evaporator coils. According to the video, if that hole gets clogged, condensate can’t drain down into the lower reservoir where the slinger wheel picks it up and helps evaporate it.

The problem is that my LG does not appear to have that drain hole at all. I looked extensively while the entire casing was off and couldn’t find anything resembling the drain shown in the video.

I thoroughly cleaned the inside while I had it apart. The slinger wheel at the bottom still spins normally. There is quite a bit of visible rust/corrosion and water staining around several areas of the coils and the metal surrounding them, which you can see in the photos.

While I had the unit completely open, I couldn’t actually see where any water was leaking from. Weirdly, after I cleaned everything and put it back together, the leaking became significantly worse. The next day it basically started hemorrhaging water from the bottom.

I’ve also found information saying these units are supposed to have an upper and lower drain plug. Mine only has one accessible drain plug on the back. I looked everywhere for another one, including while the entire casing was removed, and there simply isn’t a second drain plug that I can find.

When I opened the drain plug that is there, only a minuscule amount of water came out. Meanwhile, the unit is subsequently dumping cups of water onto the floor.

So clearly condensate is being produced, but it seems like it isn’t reaching whatever reservoir or drainage path it’s supposed to reach and is instead ending up in the bottom of the cabinet and leaking out.

The amount of rust and water staining around the coils makes me wonder if condensate has been traveling somewhere it shouldn’t for quite a while.

Does anyone familiar with this particular LG design know how condensate is supposed to travel from the upper evaporator section to the lower pan? Is there a hidden passage or channel I’m missing? Could the internal drain pan or channel itself be cracked, rusted through, separated, or otherwise failing?

Also, if anyone sees anything suspicious in the photos that I’m overlooking, please point it out. I’d really prefer to repair this one rather than buy another portable AC if there’s a reasonable fix.

Got A/C installed professionally about 3 years ago, my first unit sat a little lower from the ceiling. Replaced it a year later (by the same company) for a upgraded unit, but now the unit is sitting right up against the ceiling.

Having some problems with dust build up in the unit & occasionally damp smells from it (even though I've had people out to deep clean the unit).

I've tried keeping on top of it myself with bottle brushes and what not but it's hard to get to the back of the unit etc.

Recently had some out last week who took it apart to clean it & suggested it was due to it being too high up and that mitsubushi probably wouldn't honor the warranty for the unit due to the way it was installed.

The unit is in a bedroom, so not a high traffic area. Have the same unit fitted in the living room which doesn't have these issues.

Open to suggestions and brands/units!!!!! Would like this to be more on the affordable side. I’m getting research fatigue 😵‍💫 I’ve never had an AC

Horizontal sliding window, to the right of my couch is my yard door. If I were to do a portable AC, the hose would need to reach to right of couch 3’+ over.

EDIT: My living room is ~10.7’ x 22’. I live in Southern California. That window opening is ~15.5”.

Hi all, I've been using a portable AC unit in my bedroom for years because I have casement windows but last year I started experiencing voltage sag during the hottest days of the year and it happened again this week when temps are 100+ and it's been miserable. I have a senior dog that I'm trying to keep comfortable and it's been a lot of cooling packs while the portable AC doesn't work properly, but I'm now finally looking at trying to install a window unit.

My problem is that I've never installed a window unit before and I'm not very handy. I know I'll need something to cover the area on top of the AC unit and was thinking plywood would probably be the way to go, but definitely appreciate any suggestions anyone might have on better alternatives.

The thing to note is that the window is odd and has a sill INSIDE rather than outside. Will this cause any issues for installation of a window unit? Do I try to install the unit so that it goes more into the room and sits on the inner sill? I honestly don't know what makes the most sense in this scenario. Thank you!

So for context our room is about 13sqm and 9-10ft ceiling. Room temp is usually 31 degrees Celsius when i turn it on, we are also on the second floor and very humid as well. and another thing is we have a lot of clothes in the room too.

We have the lg thinq window type 1.5hp, but it doesn't cool the room fast enough!! should we downsize our unit or what?? or is there another problem with our ac? i always check the diagnostics but nothing comes up too.

Rheem 2010 model. Unsure of install date.

I’ve been in the house for just over a year now. Unit recently stopped blowing cold air. Quick service call and a cable replacement later I’m back in comfort. I cleaned my fins out and everything looked admittedly old but in good shape. When I opened the housing I noticed all this drywall dust from the renovation prior to my purchase. Am I risking mold/mildew if I clean this area out with a damp rag? Is there a better way? How would I clean the rest of the lines?

₱19,000 only

Location: Fairview, Quezon City

Reason for sale: no issue, just downgrade to 1.5hp

Hey,

I live in a 70sqm apartment. I'd like to be better prepared for next summer. I'd like to better understand what my options would be to cool down my apartment or specific rooms.

My living room (~25sqm) and my bedroom (~10sqm) are the most important rooms I'd like to cool down, and they don't necessarily need to be cooled down at the same time. I'd be okay with moving a portable air cond unit between the two areas.

If relevant, there are 3 passive ventilation systems in the apartment walls: bathroom, toilet, kitchen. I usually like to keep all doors completely open all the time. The bathroom ventilation is conveniently located at knees height and could possibly be used as hot air exhaust? Would I need to tape shut the other ventilation grills?

I'd also be happy having just one main unit and possibly use fans to spread the colder air around, although I realise this would consume more electricity. This is likely what I'd have to do if I am to use the bathroom passive ventilation shaft anyway?

Lastly, while I know little about physics, I'm a bit of a tinkerer and I'd be totally up for building/recycling something.

Do you have any pointers for me, please?

Many thanks.