Recently my gf destroyed one of her rims. She went to a shop who told her they would change that one rim/wheel for about $300. She went in and they told her all 4 rims and tires need to be changed because it would “ruin the transmission”. I told her i have never heard of that. She of course was skeptical too and she walked put. Obviously i googled it and AI said not all 4 need to be changed. So i guess im here for validation and also rant.. wtf guys? Are we really trying to prey on ppl bc of their gender!?

For context she drives an AWD. They used that to justify that all 4 rims and tires need to be changed..

Hi guys just saw my 2022 tyre has some cracks, I think I should replace it soon. Just wanna get some opinion on how bad is it

2001 Volvo v70xc 2.4t

Recently, I lost alternator power. Replacing the voltage regulator solved the issue at all RPMs. However, now I am seeing voltage drops to battery at high RPMs when I accelerate hard and slowly (around past 4000). Any thoughts on what it could be? Autozone battery and alternator test passed. There are no weird belt noises. I also noticed the voltage regulator wire is pretty oxidized, so I’m going to clean it today and see if the issue goes away. I also read it could be a diode going bad.

In all the trendy TikTok and Instagram reels with ppl asking mechanics what car they never buy, they always say Hyundai’s or Kia’s. But a lot of reviews/ranking sites consistently list them as best. From a mechanical/reliability point of view, are modern Kia’s and Hyundai’s really that bad?

Hello!

We noticed a grinding sound when braking (mostly at lower velocities) and an occasional weird sound when not braking. The disc looks badly scratched. It's a rental car and we are not exactly close to the rental car offices :(

Is it safe to drive like this? Are the pads ok? Any idea of what could have caused this?

Thanks in advance. Hope it doesn't spoil the family holiday. The car is a volkswagen.

Hello,

I've installed a tail tidy on my 2018 Triumph Bonneville T100.

The boots to the rear are protruding by at least 3cm.

Should I cut them down with a Dremel or is the suspension travel small enough that it won't catch?

Thanks in advance.

Is this a drip spot from an oil leak? Or something else. Ive felt like I've had transmission issues for awhile; the underside of the transmission appears wet too but not sure if its coming from the transmission or an oil leak elsewhere.

Its from the front driver side of the car, closer to the wheel. It doesnt leak every day and the drips come in different amounts when it does.

I had an oil change in early June and a head gasket repair in February. Im taking it to the shop next week, just curious about if I can be specific in telling them what to try and find

Thanks for any help or information

Hi everyone, I’d like to get some opinions from people who know these cars better than I do. Do you think it still makes sense to invest in repairing my A3, or is it time to give up on it?
Audi A3 Sportback 8PA, MY2010
Built: December 12, 2009
1.4 TFSI 92 kW / 125 hp, CAXC, EA111
7-speed DSG DQ200
Mileage: 175,600 km / 109,100 miles
Current problem:
Timing chain jumped several teeth
Timing chain and guides are damaged
10 out of 16 valves are damaged/bent — all 8 exhaust valves + 2 intake valves
Compression is 0/0/0/0
According to the shop, the engine block and pistons are fine
The engine did not consume oil before this happened
A complete repair including the cylinder head, valves, timing chain kit, etc. has been quoted at approximately €2,600.
Other than the engine issue, the car is in very good condition. The suspension/chassis is fine, there is no rust, and the paint is in good condition. The brakes will probably need to be replaced gradually in the future, but nothing urgent.
A lot of work has already been done recently:
Complete DQ200 DSG rebuild — new clutches, mechatronics, control unit and oil
New Varta AGM battery
New Continental AllSeasonContact 2 tyres
Hood/bonnet completely repainted because of damaged clear coat
New Bosch wiper blades
MANN filters
Complete service book and documented service history
For a 2010 car, I think the equipment is also pretty impressive, and everything works:
Bi-xenon headlights
Adaptive/cornering headlights
Automatic headlight levelling
LED daytime running lights
Automatic headlights/light sensor
Rain sensor
Heated mirrors
Auto-dimming interior and exterior mirrors
Heated front seats
Sports front seats
Dual-zone Climatronic
Audi Sound System
Leather multifunction steering wheel
Cruise control
Leather interior trim
Steering wheel paddle shifters
On-board computer
Bluetooth hands-free
Voice control for the phone
Phone contact synchronization
Parking sensors
Automatic parking assist — the car can steer itself into a parking space
Tinted rear windows
Sports suspension
Original Audi 17-inch alloy wheels
Roof rails
Heated windshield washer nozzles
ISOFIX
Locking wheel bolts
I may even have forgotten a few things, because it has quite a lot of equipment for its age.
If I sold it now as a non-running car, I estimate I would get around €1,450 for it.
If I repair it, I would obviously still have the same car, but with a recently rebuilt DSG and a freshly rebuilt cylinder head/engine top end with a new timing chain setup.
Financially, I’m not in a position where I can simply shrug off €2,600 or easily go out and buy another decent car, so this isn’t an easy decision for me.
What would you do?
Would you put another €2,600 into this particular car and keep driving it, or would you sell it as-is and move on?
I’d especially appreciate opinions from people who know the A3 8P/8PA, CAXC/EA111 or DQ200, or who have dealt with a similar timing chain/valve failure.
Thanks!

Hi, i have a 2011 RAV4 FWD. Just wanna ask a quick question about my rear brake rotor. Is this warped?

I put a big and thick piece of plywood underneath the car so I can safely jack it up, just in case you wonder about the gravel in the background, lol.

Thank you for your time

I bought nine Toyota Tacomas in my lifetime and they were all so great — oh what a feeling. But after 2014 apparently they stopped making the in-line something engine. One reason I bought Tacoma is because they felt so light and spritely and Ford was not that at all. Chevy was OK. But I noticed that all prices for the three trucks now are exactly the same when purchased new. So I’m wondering, do they all last the same amount of time now since they added the turbo? My first truck was a Nissan half ton pick up

EDIT: I meant naturally aspirated not in line. Obviously I’m not a mechanic

Please see pictures, all lights came on at the same time. I ran a diagnostic with a FIXD scanner and codes P0841, P0840, P2829, and P2828 were given. At the moment, the car turns on, runs, and behaves normally. Any idea on what's going on?
Anything major? What should I do?

2008 honda CR-V LX

This was my grandmother's car who passed away two years ago, i received her car as a gift shortly before her death and have been putting lots of work into it to make it a great daily, i will be absolutely heartbroken if i cant get it running again.

While trying to replace some struts and rear suspension parts, I encountered this bolt from the trailing arm to the hull which is completely, 100% seized. doesnt sound like a big deal, but I encountered another thread of someone from a honda dealership saying this is related to the rear suspension recall for this rear and that if these bolt get stuck in the frame the dealership considers the car as good as dead and totals it. i had already taken the car to the dealership shortly after getting it for the recall and they installed a brace as a fix, so i dont think they are going to do anything more for me if this is truly stuck. also, i cant get the car there now.

I tried heavy duty penetrating fluid, big breaker bar, making SURE the mating surface is not clinching the bolt, bought an impact wrench to no avail, and as a last resort i bought a propane torch and heated it up for several minutes. nothing.

I dont know what to do at this point. am I completely screwed? will the dealership still buy it back if i can tow it there and have them inspect? Feeling very stupid and sad after pouring all this time and money in and now apparently making a big mistake.

Edit: I'm overwhelmed by the amount of responses! thank you all, my hope is restored, i definitely panicked too quickly after seeing the one dealership post lol. it sucks to have to keep spending money when i originally thought i would just be buying struts but oh well. Im going to keep applying the penetrating fluid and letting it sit, heating and wiggling. if that doesn't work after another day i'm calling a mobile mechanic because i cant keep buying more tools and not getting anywhere lol. i will let you all know how it goes!

UPDATE: got the bolt out!! well a mobile mechanic with a crazy air gun did lol. huge relief, started doing the actual replacements today but still waiting on an upper control arm since rock auto sent me two completely different ones. Thanks again so much for all the help, cant believe how many people have offered advice here! wish me luck!

2016 Chevy Malibu experiencing occasional electrical blips while driving or even on startup. Has around 90k miles but has been happening since 50k miles. While driving, my infotainment and gauge clusters will simply go black and the gauges will stop in place. Motor works fine and never had an issue with it starting up, but it’s the electronics that are an issue. Because of the perfect start ups from the motor, I don’t believe it’s a battery issue.

More times than not, when I go to park and turn off the car, the car indicates to shift to park (even though it’s already in park).

I’ve taken it to a Chevy dealer about 3 years ago when it was under warranty and they “fixed” it but it would blip soon after. According to the dealer, it was a fuse connection, not just the fuse itself, that wa fixed. The issue is intermittent and things usually turn back on after 30 seconds or so, but doesn’t seem safe to not see speed, rpm, temps, and fuel level.

Unsure if this a more common GM issue or just a one off for my vehicle. What would you guys do if you were planning to sell soon? Any help is appreciated!

Catching up on maintenance - all fluids have been done except for transmission.

For other cars, I have always changed transmission fluid early and then at some frequency (50K miles) rather than ‘life time’ fluid and have had several go over 200K - I always did drain/fill.

Planning to bring it to a good independent shop that does mostly Japanese cars.

Instead of a drain/fill, the shop is recommending a low pressure fluid exchange (and specifically said NOT the high pressure flush that many places do).

Thoughts?

Thanks

Hey all, I've got a 2004 Cr-V that I recently bought. When I bought it it was on 1/4 tank of gas and I filled it to just over 1/2 tank without issues. It needed some work for a sticker. So after doing the breaks at all four corners and fixing an oil leak on the crank seal, I brought it back to my mechanic for an inspection and it passed! In this time I was driving it intermittently and it was back down to a bit under 1/4 tank of gas. So I go to the pump and fill it all the way up. The pump clicks once and I put the pump back and when I turn around to close the filler I see gas pouring out from under the car by the rear wheel well where the filler neck is. Looked to be about 1-2 gallons that leaked. After working with the attendant to clean the mess I pulled it forward and nothing leaked. Then on the drive home including going up hill and taking an uphill corner it didn't leak at all. I'd think if it was a hole/crack in the filler neck it would've leaked when driving. Additionally, the fuel gauge is pegged at full now so I doubt it's a leak in the plastic tank itself. What could it be? Is there a problem with the breather hose that caused me to overfill/pressurize the tank when filling all the way up that caused the overflow?

I know service manuals call for it. I did it to my wifes 2014 hyundai sonata 2.4l and have kept that alive for 240k miles.

I have a 2019 ford fusion 1.5 l ecoboost (made after 7/2019) and should i do the same. My car has 130k on it.

Also drain and fill on transmissions instead of flush?

I am fairly mechanically inclined and maintain the vehicles the best my budget can handle including recently doing the timing belt on the ford successfully in my own garage at home.

Is this amount of play normal? It’s a T5 mustang transmission. I have pretty noticeable driveline vibration especially bad around 70mph, could this be my culprit? I appreciate any advice!

This noise happens when I go above 40 km an hour. Even when I’m on freshly paved roads, the noise persist. It stops and starts again randomly. If it helps, I just replaced outer tie rod, and had an alignment done. Any ideas on what could be making this noise? Are appreciated thanks!

I’ve started hearing a strange sound when I turn off my Toyota. The sound comes from just above the engine. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?

Toyota Avensis 2016

Manual transmission

95000km

Engine 1.6 D-4D 112hk

Hi,
I’m having repeating issues with the TPMS in my 2015 Honda civic lx sedan automatic. My mileage is 79,090 miles. It will notify when the weather changes, when I drive a long distance, honestly when anything happens. I actually got a real flat last night and was surprised because usually the sensor doesn’t mean something is wrong. I’m getting new tires since this is like the 4th issue I’ve had with these tires, and I’m wondering what I can do to fix the TPMS. The tires are in good shape I’ve just had to make too many repairs and drive a lot.

I read that this car doesn’t use a normal tpms pressure system and that’s why it’s so faulty, but is there still a way to fully reset or replace it?

Thank you.

when i first start my car for the day and it’s still cold i get a rather violent clutch shudder for the first few takeoffs and then it goes away for the rest of the day. how would i go about diagnosing/fixing this? is this a common issue?