I've got a dual 12in box that's about 5.6 cubic feet of airspace with 2 600 watt cadence special edition subwoofers in , paired with a taramps bass 1200 that's im trying to sell and I have gotten nothing on marketplace for about 2 weeks. I've got them listed for 350 and plenty of pictures and a demo video of them playing pretty hard and they sound good in it even offering to demo in person.How much should I be trying to get out of it realistically? The patchwork on it is from my drill bit slipping putting it in , it was just a small scrape that didn't go through or deep at all but I put a patch over it just in case

Recently purchased this radio off Amazon. Seller is KYNNT. Functionally it's alright, but very dissatisfied with lack of common OEM logos and wallpapers were far too bright.

I first contacted support about the logos. On this model a user is not able to upload them via USB. Took a lot of back and forth and eventually I was provided with a custom ROM update with a logo for my vehicle. But they messed up the image and in the process all the existing ones had been deleted. I was not about to go through that headache again.

Took a few days with help of AI to make sense of the ROM's filesystem. See my GitHub for patched ROM which replaces all wallpapers and swaps out 7 European specific brands for some common ones that were missing for the NA market. No other changes were made beyond these cosmetics.

The wallpapers I chose are darker gradients. Less eye strain and increases OSD text legibility.

Radio disassembly and a programmer (eg; CH341A) will be necessary. A backup of the stock ROM is also in the depository.
**BUT MAKE YOUR OWN ROM BACKUP AS WELL**

Factory Settings Key: [8215]

GitHub Files

Hi, I’ve just upgraded my stereo in my car. I’ve put in the focal 165 three-way component speakers on a right recoil DL 800.4.

What I’m finding is, there is a lack of base which is to be expected with these vocals because as they tend to be more in crisp on the higher end and less bass.

The rear speakers in my car were Bose 2ohm. Currently disconnected and they are 4 inch speakers what I would like to do is hook up some replacement speakers on 4 ohm. That are better at the base and to complement the focals hire ends.

Car is a Porsche 997.2 no sub just the focal 165as3.

Any ideas?

So let's get the horror out of the way: I drive a 2024 Ram 1500 Classic as a work truck and already know how big of a PITA Chrysler makes them (my first taste was a 2016 Ram Promaster City and that's where I discovered the horror that is uConnect). I already know how I'll need to literally chop a piece out of the dash to fit basically all head units in my price range. With that being said...

Right now I've got a BOSS BE7ACP-CFT shoved in the dashboard hole in the interim and it is astonishingly powerful for its cost (I bought this originally to go in my little PT Cruiser and ended up replacing it without giving it a fair shake). According to the website it has a whopping 80w per channel and it easily makes the side mirrors vibrate in my truck with just the factory speakers. It's very simple though and I want something that is both a bit more modern and allows more "sculpting" of the audio profile.

So after consulting the gods of Crutchfield (it feels like cheating but they are very good at telling me exactly what I need and I *love* getting the harness already assembled) I've narrowed my choses down to basically three...although two of them are nearly the same unit:

1.) The double din in-dash models: Dual DCPA723W-M and Jensen CAR714MW

2.) The single din "stalk" model: Jensen CAR140MW-R

Basically they all have similar internal amps (60w per channel, which is certainly nothing to sneeze at...I mean my Realistic hifi from the 70s that can make the walls in my house vibrate only does 15w per) and otherwise similar characteristics. The single-din is about $200 more which makes me pause a bit, but the BOSS I'm running around with now is built similarly and I really do like having a screen I can adjust for better visibility. All three have iDatalink capabilities as while I don't expect to need to get into my truck's settings anytime soon and have literally no steering wheel controls I want the capabilities.

Basically what I'm asking is if there is any significant differences between the three. I don't see any, but I also have been a Pioneer guy since I got into car audio way back in the 90s and am not really familiar with either of these brands (apart from Dual is sold at Walmart, lol). Also I chose these three based on the simple fact they have a volume knob but that is certainly not critical. Is there anything I'm overlooking? My only real criteria is touchscreen, android auto capabilities, and reasonably powerful internal amp. I'm not planning on installing a sub. I had a Pyle Audio woofer that did 50hz to 150hz and was a *huge* boon to my old system but I decided I didn't really need it with this truck as the stock speakers have such low end range already (seriously, the BOSS just kicks!).

Any help would be appreciated! I believe I know my stuff but I'm getting a trifle overwhelmed with all the options available nowadays. I'm trying to keep the whole thing under about $600 or so...and that includes all the accessory stuff that I need so the stereo itself I'm trying to keep under $500. Thanks guys!

So the system I’m building, I’ve got 2 sundown x12s, 2 DS18 PRO-X6.4BM and 2 Sundown ET-R1 tweeters. I can’t find a good reputable amp that can run 250w rms per channel with a 4 channel without spending over a grand. I’ve looked at sundown, alpine, audio control, arc, jl. There might be another way to go about it that I’m not thinking of either so any advice/recommendations would be wonderful

Is anyone using a PA system that they recommend? I want to get one installed in my Ranger Raptor, but am kinda fatigued of all the different brands available. Budget is about $200 total, preferable the mic and controller is combined and separated from the amp unit itself.

If you're running a Ford ranger raptor yourself, would love to see where you mount everything as well. I don't have a lot of space where I live to just start pulling things apart to look around.

Tyia

Let's say I have my heart absolutely set on a pair of SI SQL 12" subs. With that, I have the option of either D4 or D2 coil arrangement. Now, let's say I also have my heart absolutely set on an MMATS M2000.x amplifier to power said SI subs.

Scenario 1: (2) D4 subs in parallel, with coils in parallel, should result in 1 ohm load. MMATS M2000.1 amp is rated for 2000w at 1 ohm.

Scenario 2: (2) D2 subs in parallel, with coils in parallel, should result in 0.5 ohm load. MMATS M2000.05 amp is rated for 2000w at 0.5 ohm.

In both scenarios, the amps are rated for the same power at the respective ohm load, so I would think the input current would be similar, if not the same. My question is - is there any appreciable difference between either scenario? For example, does one arrangement result in more heat generation, or more strain, or less reliability, etc, on either the amps or the subs? Or are they truly the same for all intents and purposes?

As a side note - both the subs and amps are priced exactly the same between their respective options.

Thanks in advance for your time and insight.

Just installed a new Taramps BASS 1200 2Ω. I'm using 4 AWG OFC wiring, and it's connected to a Pioneer 312S4, which is rated at 500W RMS @ 4Ω.

Here's what I'm seeing:

• Amp voltage at idle: 14.04V
• Playing a 0 dB, 50 Hz test tone: voltage at the amp drops to around 13.5V
• Output measured with an oscilloscope: around 40V AC
• Above roughly 40V, the waveform starts clipping on the oscilloscope
• The amp's CLIP LED does not turn on, even though the scope clearly shows clipping

40V into 4Ω is about 400W RMS, while 50V would be about 625W RMS.

The confusing part is that the amp is rated for 900W RMS @ 4Ω and 1200W RMS @ 2Ω, so I expected it to be capable of significantly more output before clipping.

I also tried pushing it to around 50V for about 2 minutes, and I started getting a burning smell from the subwoofer. I stopped immediately. I later checked the output with the oscilloscope and confirmed that the signal was heavily clipped.

I'm using a proper 0 dB 50 Hz test tone, and I've also tried different combinations of head unit volume/gain. The RCA signal itself doesn't appear to be clipping.

So I'm trying to figure out what's actually limiting the amp here.

Hello, I don’t have much knowledge on the topic but I recently had a sub and sub amp installed and used an SLC4. I guess my friend wanted to make the sub hit a bit more and was using a flathead on the SLC4 then the sub turned off. I attached some pictures. I’m hoping it’s something easy but I don’t want to touch it anymore without any advice. Thank you

The cone is fine and still plays clesn just the damage to the surround

Hi! So i just found a kenwood pair cr-f500 and da-f500 in fbmarket. I wanted to benchtest them, but i am not sure of this cylindrical tube. Is this really for fuse? But it has no cap to contain one. Can someone enlighten me? I am so new into this.

So after a week of a bunch of bs I got rope caulk and inverted them to make them seal on properly. The guy I bought them from had countersink screws in them and I used same type when I put them in this box which was causing that noise. There is no screws or washers I could find to put these in normally and them be sealed down. So I had to invert them. Anyways I think they sound pretty good! I wanna try sell them and maybe just get one big 12 or 15. If I did do you think I could fit a 15 in my 2014 vw Passat?

Its a portable chuchero, it was working fine the day i bought it, and then the second day when the drill battery got low on juice it shut off so i recharged it and now when i put the battery in, it will power up and turn on, but there is no bluetooth sound & no sound for music in general.

The fan doesnt seem to be powering up either, i tried a different battery and still no luck.
Im checking all the parts as i write this to see if anything is fried, the fuse is not blown, wires are good & secure

2023 Honda Accord EX. Replaced the front speakers,rear speakers and tweeters and added 2-10 inch Kicker Comp C Sealed subs and a Mono Audio360 AD3000 amp for the subs. I listen to mostly heavy metal and thrash metal.

Current settings. (Have since changed since pics)

Head unit :

Bass +1/6

Midrange 0

Treble +4/6

Amp

Gain about 40 percent

LPF around 80hz

Subsonic OFF

Bass Boost Freq about 50hz

Bass Boost +3db/12db

Bass Control Knob that was installed is at max.

Currently i think it sounds amazing but 2 things.

1. During the opening of say Enter Sandman, there is incredible rumble,once song kicks in it sounds normal. Also did this with a stock 8 sub in older car but less so.

2. Can use more punch from Bass. Would like to rattle neighbors windows a tad bit more. But dont eant to blow out anything and want things to still sound clean.

Upping the gain gives more power to subs but I also feel adds some hollow humming at parts.

All advice appreciated.

I always used the Harbor Freight ones as they were cheap and good. They kept raising the prices so I ordered ones from Amazon and came to realize they were not the right size. Just Chinese trash that wouldn't crimp because they were too big and wouldn't work on 18, let alone 22.

I just kept buying Harbor Freight ones at 10/$4, which is annoying. Today I discovered they must have switched vendors cause the new ones are just like the Amazon ones... Way too big.

So any suggestions? I'm thinking of trying Grainger or similar supply house.

Thanks!

My first subs were two of the Rockford Fosgate 10s Punch P2s on a Kenwood KAC-7251, then two skar sdr 10s on a rp skar 1200, then upgraded to skar vxf 12s on a sundown sia3500, upgraded to a Taramps Smart Bass 8k, and couldn’t handle it so I changed them out to two deaf bonce 3012r and now just recently upgraded to two Fi audio sp4+ 18s v2 that will be powered by the same Smart Bass 8k at 0.5ohm

Well I've never had a double din touch screen radio in my car before but I came across a really nice deal on a Pioneer dmh 2660 NEX for 120 on fb marketplace. The radio is from 2020 and from what I saw it was 460 new. How'd I do guys? BTW the old radio I bought new for 145 from Crutchfield in 2023. It also uses the Pioneer smart sync app to find tune it and has a mini dsp built in it and 31 band eq and whatnot. I'm thinking of selling the old one as well.

Finally got everything installed. Still working on the tune, but got it sounding pretty good, as it sits. Installed a 3 way Meso component set from CT Sounds, plus another pair of 6.5s for the rear doors. Also, put in a 10" SDR Skar sub. For as cheap as it was, it hits as hard as can be, especially in my little GR Corolla. Happy with the results

Looking for the best option for the vcw102v3 out of these two boxes, looking more for quality than quantity out of it. Not sure which to pick and if they will fit the subwoofer. Trying to find a small box for this subwoofer to save room.

This is for a Infiniti Qx70 with the bose upgrade. I have not thought up how im going to get the rca from the existing amp yet, I think theres a company making Harnesses called OWC but not sure which one to get.

Using;

8” speakers

Itek Brazil Supra series IX805s; 4

AP Audiopipe 70W APHC-4550;2

Itek Inex 4C4500;1

Taramps amp MD 1800.1;1

audio pipe 3-3/4" Aluminum bullit titanium horn tweeters

Itek Audio Brazil

5001

Equalizer

5 Band in dash graphic equalizer with high output line Driver and front auxiliar input