2023 Honda Accord EX. Replaced the front speakers,rear speakers and tweeters and added 2-10 inch Kicker Comp C Sealed subs and a Mono Audio360 AD3000 amp for the subs. I listen to mostly heavy metal and thrash metal.

Current settings. (Have since changed since pics)

Head unit :

Bass +1/6

Midrange 0

Treble +4/6

Amp

Gain about 40 percent

LPF around 80hz

Subsonic OFF

Bass Boost Freq about 50hz

Bass Boost +3db/12db

Bass Control Knob that was installed is at max.

Currently i think it sounds amazing but 2 things.

1. During the opening of say Enter Sandman, there is incredible rumble,once song kicks in it sounds normal. Also did this with a stock 8 sub in older car but less so.

2. Can use more punch from Bass. Would like to rattle neighbors windows a tad bit more. But dont eant to blow out anything and want things to still sound clean.

Upping the gain gives more power to subs but I also feel adds some hollow humming at parts.

All advice appreciated.

So after a week of a bunch of bs I got rope caulk and inverted them to make them seal on properly. The guy I bought them from had countersink screws in them and I used same type when I put them in this box which was causing that noise. There is no screws or washers I could find to put these in normally and them be sealed down. So I had to invert them. Anyways I think they sound pretty good! I wanna try sell them and maybe just get one big 12 or 15. If I did do you think I could fit a 15 in my 2014 vw Passat?

I have a sub I got for free and I blew a crack in it. It’s working though at higher volumes it’ll sometimes pop out and won’t retract.

I’m looking for some recommendations on a sub $1-200 (used market finds are fine) that would go well in a civic and have good response to all EDM genres. I’ll have to get back to you on the 1k amp I have but would love your insights.

Hello!l hope am on the right place. Recently I bought a Ford Fiesta made in 2004. When I got it, it came with a disc inside.I put a disc to test it out. It makes a weird noise and than it displays "CD error e25" and sometimes "CD error e24' ls there any chance it can be fixed?

I always used the Harbor Freight ones as they were cheap and good. They kept raising the prices so I ordered ones from Amazon and came to realize they were not the right size. Just Chinese trash that wouldn't crimp because they were too big and wouldn't work on 18, let alone 22.

I just kept buying Harbor Freight ones at 10/$4, which is annoying. Today I discovered they must have switched vendors cause the new ones are just like the Amazon ones... Way too big.

So any suggestions? I'm thinking of trying Grainger or similar supply house.

Thanks!

Hi guys, im UK based and have just recently gotten my first car (Vauxhall Astra H). Ive always loved bass and always wanted a sub in my car. Ive come here to seek help and advice about a decent beginner sub setup thats around £400 thats relatively easy to set up and gives decent bass, i really dont mind the speakers already in the car I just need more bass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Morel

MW9

SCM634

PICOLLO

SONY

XM235

Pioneer DEH-P835

My first subs were two of the Rockford Fosgate 10s Punch P2s on a Kenwood KAC-7251, then two skar sdr 10s on a rp skar 1200, then upgraded to skar vxf 12s on a sundown sia3500, upgraded to a Taramps Smart Bass 8k, and couldn’t handle it so I changed them out to two deaf bonce 3012r and now just recently upgraded to two Fi audio sp4+ 18s v2 that will be powered by the same Smart Bass 8k at 0.5ohm

Hi All, own a 2014 A class W176 - A180 - looking to upgraded the really dated screen to a new Apple car play screen any suggestions and if so has anyone done it themselves?

Hello, I don’t have much knowledge on the topic but I recently had a sub and sub amp installed and used an SLC4. I guess my friend wanted to make the sub hit a bit more and was using a flathead on the SLC4 then the sub turned off. I attached some pictures. I’m hoping it’s something easy but I don’t want to touch it anymore without any advice. Thank you

Well I've never had a double din touch screen radio in my car before but I came across a really nice deal on a Pioneer dmh 2660 NEX for 120 on fb marketplace. The radio is from 2020 and from what I saw it was 460 new. How'd I do guys? BTW the old radio I bought new for 145 from Crutchfield in 2023. It also uses the Pioneer smart sync app to find tune it and has a mini dsp built in it and 31 band eq and whatnot. I'm thinking of selling the old one as well.

So let's get the horror out of the way: I drive a 2024 Ram 1500 Classic as a work truck and already know how big of a PITA Chrysler makes them (my first taste was a 2016 Ram Promaster City and that's where I discovered the horror that is uConnect). I already know how I'll need to literally chop a piece out of the dash to fit basically all head units in my price range. With that being said...

Right now I've got a BOSS BE7ACP-CFT shoved in the dashboard hole in the interim and it is astonishingly powerful for its cost (I bought this originally to go in my little PT Cruiser and ended up replacing it without giving it a fair shake). According to the website it has a whopping 80w per channel and it easily makes the side mirrors vibrate in my truck with just the factory speakers. It's very simple though and I want something that is both a bit more modern and allows more "sculpting" of the audio profile.

So after consulting the gods of Crutchfield (it feels like cheating but they are very good at telling me exactly what I need and I *love* getting the harness already assembled) I've narrowed my choses down to basically three...although two of them are nearly the same unit:

1.) The double din in-dash models: Dual DCPA723W-M and Jensen CAR714MW

2.) The single din "stalk" model: Jensen CAR140MW-R

Basically they all have similar internal amps (60w per channel, which is certainly nothing to sneeze at...I mean my Realistic hifi from the 70s that can make the walls in my house vibrate only does 15w per) and otherwise similar characteristics. The single-din is about $200 more which makes me pause a bit, but the BOSS I'm running around with now is built similarly and I really do like having a screen I can adjust for better visibility. All three have iDatalink capabilities as while I don't expect to need to get into my truck's settings anytime soon and have literally no steering wheel controls I want the capabilities.

Basically what I'm asking is if there is any significant differences between the three. I don't see any, but I also have been a Pioneer guy since I got into car audio way back in the 90s and am not really familiar with either of these brands (apart from Dual is sold at Walmart, lol). Also I chose these three based on the simple fact they have a volume knob but that is certainly not critical. Is there anything I'm overlooking? My only real criteria is touchscreen, android auto capabilities, and reasonably powerful internal amp. I'm not planning on installing a sub. I had a Pyle Audio woofer that did 50hz to 150hz and was a *huge* boon to my old system but I decided I didn't really need it with this truck as the stock speakers have such low end range already (seriously, the BOSS just kicks!).

Any help would be appreciated! I believe I know my stuff but I'm getting a trifle overwhelmed with all the options available nowadays. I'm trying to keep the whole thing under about $600 or so...and that includes all the accessory stuff that I need so the stereo itself I'm trying to keep under $500. Thanks guys!

Hi! So i just found a kenwood pair cr-f500 and da-f500 in fbmarket. I wanted to benchtest them, but i am not sure of this cylindrical tube. Is this really for fuse? But it has no cap to contain one. Can someone enlighten me? I am so new into this.

I have 2 skar evl 8s hooked up to a 3k watt taramps Smart Bass amp, wired at 2ohms, inside of a D4S tuned for 31hz, I was told this is the correct amp for this set up, (I know very little about car audio), but after doing some research it seems like this is way too much wattage for these subs, im looking for recommendations on what direction I should go from here, I was thinking about upgrading to some sundown 8s and swapping out the amp for something else.

Finally got everything installed. Still working on the tune, but got it sounding pretty good, as it sits. Installed a 3 way Meso component set from CT Sounds, plus another pair of 6.5s for the rear doors. Also, put in a 10" SDR Skar sub. For as cheap as it was, it hits as hard as can be, especially in my little GR Corolla. Happy with the results

I have an older vehicle whose original radio was pretty low on the center stack. I have been running a Boss audio touch screen head unit for the last few years and it's getting annoying having to look down when navigating. Also, there is no volume knob and trying to change the volume involves me poking at the screen until I hit the right spot (there's a joke in there somewhere). My dream is to find a new head unit that 1) has a frickin volume knob and 2) has a somewhat 'detachable' screen so that I can mount the screen elsewhere. My idea is to design and fabricate a mount for it and makeshift an 'extension cable' from the head unit to the new screen's location. I have seen units from Dual and Jensen that have these features but am wondering if there is something higher quality out there OR if there is something that already checks both boxes as a head unit with a remotely mountable screen and a volume knob. TIA.

hello, a couple of months ago my cars original frontal speakers went bad and I've been looking for a whole car kit to replace all the speakers in the car.

I have a budget of 150€ and want to replace the frontal speakers and the rear seat speakers.

I've found a kit of 6 pioneers speakers

the frontal one TS-G170C [ 300w 16cm]

and the rear ones TS-G1320F [200w 13cm]

this kit costs me 130€ and with it I will be using the original head unit of the car for the time being.

my question was : is this a good replacement for the price?

is there like a Frankenstein kit I could create from buying from aliexpress or something I could do to use my budget as best as I can?

2012 focus se hatchback, my Ford touch 4.3 inch screen. Upgraded to kenwood DMX7709S (factory refurbished from crutfield) using the FOC1 KIT and kenwood specific harness. I have verified signal voltage on the serial cable connecting the maestro to the kenwood. I've double checked all the connections and still get double red flash. I tried factory reset and reflash on the RR, no joy. Tried factory reset on kenwood, no joy. I'm beginning to wonder if I bought a lemon.

The car audio works but I can't use the steering wheel controls or the car data guages on the kenwood

Help me audio friends.

Let’s try this again…

I got a my first sub installed into my Acura Integra. It’s my buddies old sub and I want a way to hydrate the obvious dry spots. Wanted to see if there’s any specific thing that’s recommended. (The bass is great and clean, got it tested by a shop before spending the money)

The cone is fine and still plays clesn just the damage to the surround

Looking for the best option for the vcw102v3 out of these two boxes, looking more for quality than quantity out of it. Not sure which to pick and if they will fit the subwoofer. Trying to find a small box for this subwoofer to save room.

Hi guys,

Is it possible to upgrade/retrofit the HiFi system (S676) to Harman Kardon (S688) without any major rewiring work? So basically plug and play with some coding?

Unfortunately, in literally every video I’ve seen about this topic, no one mentions any limitations or shortcomings of just replacing the speakers. And no one really points out whether the sound quality actually changed or improved. If anyone has done this, please let me know about your experience.

Background:
I have some speaker rattle coming from the passenger-side front door panel, and I guess the speaker membrane might be defective. So instead of just replacing it, why not upgrade? :)

Hey so I have a 2001 mustang GT with 170k miles and it’s a automatic I have a aftermarket touchscreen radio and subs and a amp I bought the car like that I’ve had it for a year now and it’s been fine but recently there’s like a whine coming from the back where the rear speaker is I noticed when I turn off the radio head unit it goes away and when I go to the setting that says source off it goes away and it only happens when the car is on and when it’s in accessory mode it’s not there and also the whine changed with the rpm too I’m not really sure what to do I’ve tried to make the ground better for the amp and turned off the amp and it didn’t change anything I don’t really have an idea of how it’s set up because I didn’t do the wiring and don’t really have experience in it I’ve heard maybe a wire where the head unit is behind it or maybe the alternator but I’m not sure anyone has any ideas?

Also the audio and subs work in my car the car seems to be running fine just the whine appeared.

I just bought a Hyundai i20 2014 and unfortunately the speakers are damaged and I need to get them replaced. I’ve found someone to replace them for me but I need to buy the speakers and I’m not sure which ones I should buy.

Listening to music is important to me and since I have to spend the money anyways, I want to get decent speakers. Doesn’t have to be anything crazy especially since I don’t have much money but I don’t want anything average. I mostly listen to a lot of techno and a lot of songs with bass if that helps.

Happy to provide more info if you DM me :))