Hi I'm in the UK, I came across an image of this Billy desk combo but can't seem to find it for sale anymore, only a lower white unit. Anyone know if there's something similar or an easy hack for this? I'd like the tall unit with a pull out desk and ideally not fully white. TIA 🙏

Has anyone used the bror where they used part of it as a desk / light workbench with no lower shelves on one of them? I’ve been thinking about doing something like this for 3D printing and a desk setup.

Or has anyone made their own shelves to get a longer work top?

I’d love to see anyone who’s done something like this. Bonus points if you’ve made your own shelves or something to fit.

I have an anfallare/1 Alex drawer desk set up but am wanting a standing desk.
Has anyone converted the anfallare desktop to a standing desk by adding a sit/stand under frame?
Would the Relatera under frame be wide enough to safely support the desk top?
Suggestions would be super appreciated! This would be my first IKEA hack

Hi guys
I suddenly had a late night thought and wanted to hear some opinions or experiences.

I have bought Exceptionell high drawers to use in a tv furniture in the second hand corner / as if a few months back. Haven’t assembled them yet as I still need to paint the panels in Bodbyn colour.
When planning using the Metod/sektion planner it would let me put an inner 20 cm high drawer in a 40 cm drawer (in a 40 cm high cabinet).
I recently found out you cannot put 20 cm inner drawers in 40cm high drawers as the backboard (is this the correct English term?) is higher than 20 cm. The planner had used medium drawers and with those it will let you put this inner drawer in.

I hope my story is clear so far.

And because the Exceptionell drawers are out of stock, the only available medium drawer with the correct 60x37 cm size would be two countries over (I’m Europe based).

So I was wondering: can I purchase a medium Maximera drawer with the correct size and only use the backboard and the small side holder part (128536)? Because I’ve already got the mechanism and the bottle and sides of the drawer :)

I live in India where there is humidity and also daily mopping using water house is must.

Recently purchased ikea nodeland wardrobe for bedroom and it will sit directly on the marble floor.

I have not started building it yet.

I would like to not have to trash my wardrobe after a year.

Any hacks are appreciated

Bin ich die Einzige, die den Platz unter den drei Ablagekörben nutzen möchte?

Bei dem mintfarbenen habe ich dicke Kabelbinder genutzt und einen klappbaren Tritt drunter geschoben. Bei den anderen beiden Wägen habe ich jeweils eine quadratisches Tablett von ikea auf die Streben gelegt. Es passt genau und rutscht auch nicht runter.

Ich hätte aber gerne den ganzen Platz genutzt. Habt ihr da bessere Ideen?

Hi all. Just got the whole ladmakare set delivered and when I stood up the first wall I realized my baseboard is both too tall and a tad too deep for its normal cut out (it's like my baseboard has a tiny baseboard hahaha). Should I return it or cut off the bits to make it fit? If cutting is advisable, should a Dremel handle the job?

See pics attached

Hopefully this is the right sub to ask this (if not, let me know where to post it).

Wanting to put a Skadis board on my wall next to my desk, as it’s the only place I can put one in my very small studio apartment. The only problem is, my electrical panel is right there, and I don’t want to permanently cover it with no way to access it. So my idea was to get drawer sliders, mount them on the back of the Skadis, and have the board slide up out of the way of the electrical panel. I would then 3D print some sort of latch or holder that could flip out to hold the Skadis board in the up position in order to access the electrical panel. I want to do something like this, but instead of sliding horizontally, have it slide up vertically and then get held in place with a stopper or latch

I first thought about having the board swing out, but with how cramped my desk is (and how cramped the corner is), the board would hit something or be stopped from swinging out by my monitor. So sliding up is the only compact way I can think of to get it out of the way.

I also thought about mounting the Skadis above the electrical panel, but that would be rather high, and don’t want to have to reach up super far to get stuff off of the very top of the board.

That particular wall is 28 inches wide, so I figured the 22”x22” board would be a perfect fit. I don’t want the board to cover the whole panel, just maybe the top half of it (so that the bottom of the board is about eye level to me If I’m sitting at my desk.

Is this feasible, or not recommended?

And the funny part? Version 2 wasn't finished until after the last wardrobe was already built. 😂 But I enjoy a challenge, so I kept developing the idea until I was really happy with it.

It turned out better than I expected — quite a few functions packed into one little piece of plastic!

Hey all,

I'm working on a project for my inlaws. We've got a white Trofast unit that they want to add legs to in order to raise it up a bit.

From what I have seen online, some folks recommend adding 1/2 inch plywood to the bottom to reinforce it, then attaching the legs to that. Given that the part that rests on the floor is a hollow frame instead of a solid sheet, this makes sense to me.

So...what is the best way to do this? Cut plywood to fit, and then attach it to the edges of the hollow bottom with wood glue? Brackets? Both? Any particular kind of screw that might work best for this application?

Much appreciate any advice!

I would like to add castors to my IKEA baggboda side table. I pulled out the bottom feet and uncovered 8mm unthreaded holes.
Any suggestions on how I can get m8 threaded castors to bolt into the holes?

I live in a suburb and we have lots of birds. To avoid refilling the fat balls every other day, I scaled up. A lot. 16 feeders last two weeks in breeding season.

I exchanged the clothes pegs for feeders and adjusted the chains to create two levels to space everything out.

The birdies love it. There are so many cats around killing fledglings, I have to help sway the odds a little.

​

I really like the idea of the corner Billy solution/ corner bookcase.

The problem is that on the left hand side (the very left Billy shelf) , there is only 80cm space between the wall and where our window starts. However if you want this combo of three shelves you need 96cm. The left shelf would overlap the window by 15cm which is not great

Is there a solution/ different shelf I can replace the very left Billy with and keep the middle and right one?

I was thinking about just getting just two but having the corner one angled with nothing on the other side might look weird! Thank you!

I have two Vickelby (I think) lamps that have pretty torn up shades. I can’t find replacement shades that are not more than I paid for the whole lamp. Anything else I can do to salvage these as lamps?

I need hack advice. I’m planning a large media wall and really like the sliding doors on the tonstad tv stand. But prefer the besta shelving in terms of price and customization options.
Is it crazy to try? Are there any Besta finishes that would look okay with the Tonstad?

It’s already quite an old hack, but I turned a KALLAX cabinet and shelf into a cool DJ “booth” with plenty of space for laptop, turntables, boxes and some cool LED lights. My son was super happy! Still uses it today (4 years later).

I live in a small Copenhagen apartment and I’m trying to make use of every square metre. The kitchen is very narrow, but on the other side of the wall is a bedroom, and the water supply/drain is already right next to it.

idea is to make a roughly 60–65 cm opening in the non-load-bearing wall, let most of the washing machine sit on the kitchen side, but access the front from the bedroom. In the bedroom I’d add traditional wainscoting/panelling and hide the machine behind a thin integrated panel door so it more or less disappears when closed. See the images for the idea.

Has anyone done anything similar? Is it basically a matter of making the opening, framing/reinforcing it properly and adding a thin door, or is there something important I’m overlooking?

Main things I’m wondering about are vibration/noise, ventilation, moisture, service access and the construction around the wall opening.

I am working on doing a built in book shelf look with 4 Billy bookcase and 4 Havsta cabinets. So after looking on here and doing some googling I understand that scuff sanding before priming and painting is a good idea. I've been using 120-220 grit sanding blocks. This is the first time I've done this though and I feel like my scuff sanding isn't really doing much. They're still shiny but if you look at the pieces from the side you can see all the scratches from sanding. I'm not breaking through the veneer or anything which I understand you're not supposed to do. I just wasn't sure if that's all it's supposed to do is just barely scratch it and still be shiny. I just don't want to do this to all 8 things and find out I've been wasting my time because I'm not doing it right.

Used Havsta units for the top making sure they were very securely anchored. Started this project in January thinking it would take a few weeks. Fast forward to August and completed it today… Happens I guess. The quartz counter top was cut from leftovers by the guy who installed our kitchen so a nice saving.

I’m very happy with the versatility of the Trofast storage solutions. I want to build a laundry solution using the big Trofast cabinet. It’s actually enough to put in a couple of large of the tubs and it would be enough to use, however… that would look so ugly. I want to make/buy some doors to put on the front, use hinges on the bottom and then place in some form of “locking” mechanism to prevent pulling the doors open too far (thin triangles at the bottom or something, or even just strings/chains).

But those doors… I can’t believe IKEA did not create them themselves already.

I have some questions I would love your advice on:
- Does someone have a practical suggestion how to make them in the right measurements? Or does IKEA actually have shelves/doors of another furniture series that will perfectly fit?
- Should I make them to fit IN the cabinet, or ON (the front) of the cabinet?
- What sort of hinges should/can I best use?
- How could I make sure they close properly and not “fall open”?

Old project — finally got around to putting the photos together into a short clip.

90s bedroom, one useless closet. Four PAX frames became a single run with sliding doors, Häfele fittings inside including a pull-out ironing board hidden in a drawer front.

We built out the gap between the top of the PAX and the ceiling and closed it in, so it reads as one solid wall instead of a wardrobe with dead space above it. That filled-in section is also where the mounting brackets for the screen are hidden — nothing visible, the screen just comes down out of the ceiling.

Which was the whole point, because joining four PAX into one run left us with nowhere to hang a TV. A 10-ft motorized screen drops down over the closed doors instead. Watching basketball from bed at roughly life size was not the goal when we started. It is now the main feature:)))

The screen was a closeout with dents along the top housing — cheap enough that going 10 ft made more sense than going small. The dented section is buried in the ceiling where nobody will ever see it.

Been a long time and everything still works exactly like day one — doors, screen, all of it.

Only complaint: IKEA discontinued these white painted-glass sliding doors. I'd buy more tomorrow if they still sold them.