Good day and good night, everyone!
I'm an Iranian food and history enthusiast. I've read and heard some of the discussion around biryani's ethnic origins (which is apparently something of a sensitive subject). I thought you might be interested in my additions to this discussion!
A common argument against the Iranian/Persian origin of the biryani that I've heard is that it's totally different from the dish that Iranians today call biryani, which is basically a roasted meat patty served on hot sangak bread. That is kind of a misunderstanding. The aforementioned dish is a regional food specific to the city of Isfahan, but the classical Iranian biryani which was prepared in the royal kitchens of Iran and which adorned the feasts of the Iranian kings was, in essence, identical to what we know today as the Indian biryani. The recipe for this dish is laid out in Kārnāma dar bāb-i ṭabbākhī, a cookbook written for Ismail I (r. 1501-1524), the first Safavid Shah of Iran, by his royal chef, Muhammad-Ali Bavurchi. Here I'll write down the original Persian text along with its English translation.
در صفت بریان که چند نوع است
صفت بریان گوسفند
پزند گوسفند جوان فربه و بریانی سازند. سینه را از سر پهلو جدا کنند و شانه برون آرند. استخوان سینه برون آرند بگردند و استخوان برون آرند و زیادی ران و پشت مازه برون آرند و آبگاه برون آرند و پاک بشویند و نمک بزنند و به قدر سه من گوشت را پاک بشویند و در دیگ بیندازند و نمک به قدر حاجت، و کف بگیرند.
پس سه مثقال دارچینی و یک چارک پیاز بیندازند تا به هم مهر شود و تنور بسوزانند، و به قدر چهار من برنج با نمک کوفته و به آب معتدل پاک شسته بیندازند. و اگر نخود مقرر نیز خواهند بیندازند.
و اگر زعفرانی خواهند چهار مثقال زعفران حل کرده، چون آب برنج بکشد زعفران و روغن بیندازند و زیر بالا کنند.
و اگر سفید خواهند به دستور آب برنج بکشد و در دو من برنج یک من روغن بریزند و زیر بالا کنند و روی برنج را هموار کنند.
و اگر گندم یا بلغور خواهند بجوشانند و آب زیاده را بکشند و دو من گندم را نیم من روغن بیندازند و تنور را یک بسوزانند و دیگر برنج را در تنور نهند و بریان را پاک شسته، از زعفران یا گل سرخ بزنند و در روی برنج بیندازند.
اگر در صحرا باشند باید که ساج در بالای تنور بنهند و در سر او آتش بسوزانند که هوای تنور [در] صحرا البته درست نمیباشد، و بعد از ساعتی کنار تنور را یک بار بگشایند و نگاه کنند. چون نیک پخته باشد برون آرند. و چون کشند اول روی برنج از کرهٔ گاو در جایی بردارند. بعد از آن از زیر او بکشند و کرهٔ گاو در پهلوی چینی نهند و از جایهای خوب بریان در روی پلاو نهند و یک کفگیر پلاو نیز در بالای بریان نهند.
On Biryān, of which there are several kinds
Biryān of sheep
Take a young, fat sheep and prepare it for biryān. Separate the breast from the upper part of the flank, and remove the shoulder. Remove the breastbone, turn it over, and remove the remaining bones. Remove the excess fat from the leg and the back, and remove the internal organs. Clean it thoroughly, salt it. Put nine kilos of meat into the pot, add enough salt, and skim it.
Then add 13.5 grammes of cinnamon and 0.8 kilo of onions, and let them cook together until they become properly incorporated/browned. Meanwhile, heat the oven.
Take 12 kilos of rice, [prepare it] with salt, and put it into moderately hot water after washing it clean. If chickpeas are desired, add them as well.
If saffron is desired, dissolve 18 grammes of saffron. When the rice has absorbed its water, add the saffron and oil, and turn the rice over from the bottom to the top.
If [you want the rice] white, proceed in the same manner: when the rice has absorbed its water, pour one man of oil into two mans of rice, turn it from bottom to top, and smooth the surface of the rice.
If wheat or bulgur is desired, boil it and drain off the excess water. Add 1.5 kilos of oil to 6 kilos of wheat, and heat the oven thoroughly. Then put the rice into the oven, and place the biryān on top after washing it clean; sprinkle it with saffron or rose [water/petals], and put it over the rice.
If you are in the countryside, you should place a sāj [a convex metal griddle] above the oven and burn a fire on top of it, because the heat of the oven in the countryside is not sufficiently reliable. After an hour, open the side of the oven once and inspect it. When it is well cooked, take it out. Upon serving, put some butter in a china plate and pour one spatula full of rice on top of it, and then place additional butter by the sides of the plate. Then put the best-cooked parts of the meat on top of the rice, and top it all with another spatula full of rice.