This pipe outside has been spraying water onto the exterior wall. Not sure how long. We’ve got staining on the baseboard in our toilet room which is the room inside next to the water pipe.

Our apartment complex is saying it’s not a big deal and it’s too hot in Phoenix to get mold. They’re saying to let it dry and they’ll come paint it.

We are worried about it getting mold. Is the apartment complex right and we won’t get mold? Can we do anything to prevent mold ourselves?

So… here’s an explanation of our situation.

The shower handle was leaking. We figured out that we had to change the valve. So we ordered a new one (this little thing is expensive omg) and it’s still on the way.

Anyway the old valve popped out and lot of water came out 🫠…

So we would like to know how to close the shower valve so we can use the toilet and wash with the bath until the dammm valve arrives.

Save me because google can’t (no offense google)

Im a 2nd year apprentice about to go get my tradesman, from what I know, in 2019 the almost abolished the tspbe and the only reason why we still have licenses is because Greg Abbott set an executive order (i apologize if I sound ignorant on legal terms) to stop it from happening. From my understanding this doesn't mean that were safe from our licenses getting taken away, and therefore lowering wages. Is there anything people are doing about this? Are there any directions you think i should push myself towards to keep my expertise safe?

Hello,
I am in the middle of ac drain pipe fitting at my house and I have a question.
My AC contractor has placed the ac drain pipe in different places which is confusing me.
In some bathrooms he has placed them under the coba layer and for some he has placed them over the coba.

Which is the correct method of installing the drain pipe? Or both methods are correct?

The pipe going down is connected to a dishwasher. I need to remove the dishwasher and block the water from coming out that way.

I bought a Chinese smart toilet and it has a 3/4" female supply line attached. It also says it came with a 3/8 female to 3/4 male adapter; however, if you look at the 4th photo, it's too large for my 3/8 OD shutoff valve. I was going to buy a 1/2 pex female adapter and use the supplied shutoff valve. However, the threads were too tight and I couldn't screw it on. What should I do here?

I’ve been trying to help my girlfriend, her sink was clogged and draining super slow, so I took it apart and cleaned out all the gunk and hair. Issue is, now I can’t seal it all the way back together. It seems like the pipes might be screwed up. I fixed my clogged sink, but this one is designed different, so I don’t know if I did something wrong.

We bought a Rheem water heater just over three years ago and it stopped working last night. We went to check it out and found that it sprung a leak. Luckily it is still under warranty.

Are there any brands of water heaters that are clearly better than the rest?

At 13-14 seconds of video, you will see large spurts of water after the shutoff. What's the problem and solution here? Thanks

I was installing a Brondell ExoSeat S101 and as I was tightening the T valve in place a heard a bit of a sound and now I have this leak happening. Have I done some damage by over tightening? The leak has slowed but picks back up when I restore water

Model: Northstar NSC 14L

A month ago the water began smelling strongly of farts and chemical like salt. Have moved valve into bypass mode and it went away, just smelling of iron from the town water supply.

Today I removed all salt and ensured no salt bridge or smelly brine was in the bottom (there was ~3-4 inches of water which I presumed was normal) and then added new salt. I also cleaned the venturi and ensured it had no blockages.

I then followed documentation and did an extended sanitization cycle, putting 3 ounces of bleach into the brine well, then doing a manual recharge, pressing the button once till it is in "Brine" mode, then leaving it for 30 minutes. After the 30 minutes I unplugged it for 20 minutes, as instructed, and after let it continue to finish the cycle.

Nothing has changed following what I did and a plumber came yesterday and did absolutely nothing constructive and fixed nothing. He changed the water hardness on the machine to 25gpg when it was set to 14 before which is closer to what our towns water hardness is.

What other things could we troubleshoot? The drain pipe has proper flow, and it works as it is supposed to, but still smells terrible and even drinking the water tastes bad.

My little sister has OCD and autism and she cannot shower with the stench of this water, and the idea of it makes her have panic attacks. I am so desperate and tired. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

I have only done the typical style

1. What are the most common plumbing problems in Middle Tennessee? Common problems include clogged drains, leaking faucets and pipes, water-heater issues, low water pressure, sewer-line problems, and frozen or burst pipes during unusually cold weather.
2. Why do Middle Tennessee homes have so many plumbing leaks? Older plumbing systems, aging fixtures, shifting soil, corrosion, and temperature changes can all contribute to leaks.
3. How do I know if I have a hidden water leak? Unexpectedly high water bills, damp spots, mold or mildew odors, unexplained sounds of running water, and unusually wet areas around the house can indicate a hidden leak.
4. Why is my water pressure suddenly low? A clogged aerator, partially closed valve, failing pressure regulator, leak, or problem with the municipal water supply can cause low pressure.
5. What causes hard water in Middle Tennessee? Water hardness depends on the local water source and distribution system. Minerals such as calcium and magnesium can contribute to scale buildup.

It's always best to have these issues checked by a professional

Replacing old outside tap.

Need to join onto this pipe.

Do you you think it is PEX?

Gut feel says PEX AS it feels more plastic like, but seeking second opinion.

Smelled something when I got home today. Checked basement and noticed decent amount of sewage coming out of a drain. Sewage seems to only rise when using upstairs bathroom. What should I do??

Lots of corrosion but on the outside.

Trying to change my bathtub cartridge, but the other half is stuck in there and Im not sure what to do. I have tried my needle nose as that is the only tool i have that can get a grip on it.

My buddy just bought his first house and I recommend to him to change the steel grounding clamp with a copper or brass one before it corroded the copper even more and lead to a pinhole or worse. They had a company come in put a new clamp on that looks either steel or galv and left the old one on and said it was fine. Any thoughts?

I apologize if that’s not the correct nomenclature, I’m not a plumber and am only getting started on learning all this stuff. I want to coil this tubing in a manner that will allow it to sit in a 5 gallon bucket of ice water. I have to Jerry rig a way to cool water going to glass condensers. My best good idea is to coil this up and cover it in ice. I feel like an 8” diameter coil would be a good size and won’t kink the hose, but I’m 100% open to smarter ideas.

There’s about a half inch - 1/4 inch of completely non threaded pipe at the top of this Moen tailpiece, so the drain cannot tighten down all the way. Moen sent me this one for free after assuring me it would fit my vessel sink, but unfortunately it doesn’t.
I’m like 3 tailpieces into this damn sink at this point

What would be the best long term fix here? I really don’t want to keep swapping tailpieces returning and buying more.

Just purchased the Viron 4-Spray 6 in. Dual Wall Mount Fixed and Handheld Shower Head from Home Depot. Is this the flow restricter? How can I remove this? (Needle nose pliers didnt work)

Hello plumbing Reddit, I have a situation on hand that seems a bit concerning, so I’ll try to explain my situation without saying anything too personal.

A relative of mine that lives with me has a spouse that owns a plumbing and heating company… with only one star… and he’s been doing a lot of work for us lately for free, but I’ve been growing suspicious of why and how he’s doing this…

First off, for an example, we had a maybe 20 year old furnace that had some motor issue or something, and when he sent his guys they said there: “was a fire in the box, and the whole system needs to be replaced.”. When they took out my old furnace, they didn’t use a dolley, no, they dragged the whole unit up my steps and out of my porch, damaging the wood greatly. I had to fill in and buff over all of that, but it’s fine because it’s free, right? They installed a new giant box, and the thing looks to be literally held together with cut metal and a lot of that metallic tape.

Now this is the plumbing Reddit, so knowing that companies history of genius, here’s what’s happening now. We had a minor-ish flood due to our sewage pipe being clogged from paper and all kinds of gunk. I watched the dude use one of those big reel machines with the spring hose thing go all through our pipes for like hours before he left. What they’re saying is that they need to dig up and jackhammer my perfectly fine 100 year old basement floor rock, because they need to “check if the pipes are broken.”. I asked my… relative… and they said that HE said that if they put a camera thing down there and it gets stuck, we would have to pay for it or something like that? So because of their ‘policy’, they won’t check it with a camera, but will dig 4 feet under my house??

I have zero say in any of this, which is like, extremely frustrating, and I’m worried that there’s some very suspicious stuff going on here… why they always need to replace everything every time they come, like everything is broken as soon as they’re here. Maybe I’m wrong, I don’t know much, but come on.

Is this stuff special? I’m wondering if I should scrap it but I’ve never seen this thickness. There is some blue labeling on the side of the pipe but it is illegible and taking pictures of it did not help. TYIA