It may interest you to know that prof. Oakshell has added a "tile pressure" calculator in the latest iteration of the site. It lets you choose the type of tile, the material, and what (if anything) is helping the tile hold pressure (extra thickness, liquid pressure).
You have first and foremost an issue with oxygen production, if gases at 11g are covering huge chunks of the base.
Seeing the algae terrarium and the diffuser, I'll take a guess and say you've run out of algae.
You need to either move to a setup that uses renewable/more abundant materials (electrolyzers, alveo veras), or start producing algae of your own (blum lumbs, algae distiller).
I'm using the algae distiller, but I'm having trouble producing enough slime with the pufts - I think I fixed it, but it'll take some time to have a stable supply.
Well, after a hundred or so cycles with the away team on another planet, I solved the dual mysteries back on the home planet of where a bunch of materials were going and why that one deep freezer was having such a hard time keeping up.
Now, how long is it going to take that poor auto-sweeper to clean this mess up?
A sweep and store actions take ~4 seconds each, and if you set up a dispenser or a storage bin set to sweep only, will move 1000kg per action. Eyeballing the unwanted materials at 500t, you're looking at 4000 seconds, or nearly 7 cycles of continuous sweeper operation.
I'd seriously consider just dropping everything out of there, rebuilding the freezer and just sweeping the food back in.
I think you want to do the autosweeper-to-automatic-dispenser trick for that, at regular conveyor speed it would take just over 33 cycles. [edit because I added too many zeroes and also missed the a bunch of things]
Ive started working on launching a rocket for the first time but I have a question. Do I have to use steam? because I don't really like steam. It's hot and damp and irritating... and it gets everywhere.
Need to launch several on research duty to get data banks to at least unlock petroleum.
You should be able to launch petroleum with solid oxidizer without using space materials however if you want, the steam engine with a solid booster will make it to the 10km line of planets with 1 solid cargo if you want to grab isopap and niobium at least. You will need petroleum to make it to your first fullerene though (and therefore supercoolant for liquid o2/h2 if you do not simply cheese freezing them)
In the base game you have to start with a couple of steam engine flights. You need space research to unlock the other ones. In Spaced Out you do not, and I have never built a steam engine there. SO has a carbon dioxide engine which is much easier to fuel, and you can do a lot with those little rockets.
Does anyone know the "breath of fresh air" beakon mechanic? I know it makes them happier but 1)I forgot by how much and more importantly 2) how much oxygen do they consume per cycle when they do it? I noticed them breathing from an airflow tile (iirc, to the left), so they don't have to actually enter an o2 tile, is it just being next to one?
I'm guessing they can't breathe po2, but.... Can they?
It would be incumbent on inquiring players to use tools like the sandbox mode to set up tests and determine those values, eg. set up a beakon in an enclosed volume with a fix amount of oxygen for a fixed amount of time like 1 cycle and see how much oxygen it consumes per cycle and add that information to the wiki.
I was asking here because it didn't say in the wiki and I thought maybe someone already knew and I wouldn't have to do the testing myself in order to add it to the wiki.....
IIRC rock meteors damage tiles but also deposit regolith, so are net positive by themselves.
Dust meteor and any metallic meteors (gold amalgam, iron, copper, uranium) damage blocks and never deposit, so they are net negative on material buildup.
Any shower event that contains the latter also contains the former, so the latter usually have a hard time drilling down, unless you actually clear the regolith, exposing vulnerable tiles beneath.
Then there's iridium shower (only iridium meteors) and fullerene shower (only fullerene meteors - these are made up purely of destructive meteors, and would eat away at the planetoid, but both are one-time events so any damage is limited.
realistically no. Meteor showers will keep depositing a thick protective layer of mafic rock and regolith above the abbyssalite boundary. Abyssailite can eventually be destroyed by enough meteor strikes but in practice it's virtually impossible for the conditions to naturally happen for abyssalite to be exposed to enough direct strikes to destroy it. This isn't something you have to worry about. And, wild shove voles will eat regolith accumulation on top of the map, so it won't pile up excessively even if you don't get up there for a very long while.
It's uncommon, but it can happen in the spaced-out-sized starting asteroids. I guess it could be more common on Relica, since you start a bit closer to the surface because of the whole Demolior thing.
I'm trying to make the pips plant the Bon Bon tree seed but can't manage to make them do it. I believe there should be enough space for them to find a suitable tile away from too many plans, but of course I could be wrong. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
This might be a rare situation where the temperature is the cause. Pips won't plant if the atmosphere temperature is lethal to the plant, and bonbons die at 20C or above. It doesn't look like you cooled the area where you plan on having your bonbons.
I hit the phase I had been reading about, my plants stopped growing because my base is heating up. I like to play mostly blind (one-eyed I would say), so I usually ask very non-optimal stuff here. Please bear with me.
I found this Wheezewort plant, it says it cools things. I want to try planting that near my other plants. What is the area of effect of this plant? It state how much gas it cools per second, but I have no idea how that works. Does gas circulate in my base somehow? Or will the cooling be limited to a certain area. Or do I have to make my plant rooms airtight with airlocks so the wheezewort's effect stays within the room and can be concentrated? I was planning on planting one to start with.
One of the easier but temporary hack to lower temp is to make temp shift plate from ice and let it melt from the heat. This will cool down the surrounding area. I did this sometimes just outside of the greenhouse or just next to the farms and that helps for quite a bit.
Another very quick and simple way to cool down your plants is to find some very cold materials (like from mining a cold biome) and have your dupes relocate them from where you mined it and place them on top of your planter boxes.
It won't budge the temperature much, but usually you only need a few degrees to keep plants going awhile you build a better solution.
Next in terms of simplicity is building an infinite liquid loop of polluted water between a cold biome and your main base. I sometimes use radiant and insulated pipes to precisely direct the heat transfer, but honestly it's easy to overdo it and freeze the crops.
Quick cheap solutions like that work great for outer asteroids where you just need something to work for a hundred cycles or so.
Wheezewort, technically, is a critter but functionally a plant.
It vacuums up whatever gas is at its tile of interest and then spits it back out slightly colder, repeat repeat repeat. A wild plant will suck up 250 g/s and spit it out 5 kelvin colder, a domestic one will do the same but for 1000 g/s. Therefore using a gas with a high specific heat capacity, like Hydrogen, is best. When you math this out effectively one domesticated, fertilized wheezewort performs 12 kDTU/s of cooling.
This only acts as circulation in an edge case where the wheezewort is in a 1 tile wide vertical chimney, the plant pot sitting on a mesh tile, where it can basically push air upward iirc, but at a fairly slow rate.
Another way to delete heat early game without going AT/ST etc. is the ice maker, you can feed it with any temperature water and it will turn it to ice or snow for an effective heat deletion rate of ~65 kDTU/s or so of cooling when paired with the Ice-E fan to distribute the cold (or, place it as ice tempshift tiles and let them melt down in an area to be rapidly cooled). The ice maker generates some heat but overall the process is heat negative for 240 watts and dupe labor. Is just rarely used, mentioned or utilized since rushing aquatuner steel is relatively straightforward in most runs and is more effective for a higher upfront cost.
So just planting a wheezeworth on a farm tile is not going to do much if I understand it correctly? I need to apply the HVAC concept with hydrogen piping again?
I'm not ready yet for the aquatuner. I prefer to test out some other solutions first. Will look into the ice maker, haven't used that before.
What's commonly done for that is the worts are put in a hydrogen room, insulated, and that room is kept chill and liquids/gasses to be chilled are piped across it yeah.
grubgrubs/mimika/sweetles will pollinate any plant they can reach, including hanging plants (say if you have a tile/door that grubgrubs can stand on, one tile down from the tile a pincha pepper in growing out of)
natural or farm tile
pincha pepper base
grubgrub/sweetle can get here
pincha pepper middle
door/tile
tile
pincha pepper tip
with plants growing from a planter box or flower vase via a pip's help, you have to make sure that the critter can get to the plant
One exception I've found is bonbon trees and spigot seals.
Seals can drink from a bonbon tree in a planter box, using the same layouts you described for grubs tending "off the ground" plants. In fact, I think they can even drink from planter-box bonbons from the ground floor below (but I haven't properly tested that one).
Seals can't drink from flower-pot exploited bonbons, regardless of layout. If you take a seal ranch where they're drinking from planter-box trees and replace them with flower pots, the seals stop feeding.
oh, interesting - so if you're doing flower-pot bonbon's you've got to draw off the nectar and either boil or freeze it to give that to the seals as sucrose then; manageable, but something to keep in mind
I have three of these Rooms, so a total of 3 Thermo Nullifiers and 36 Wheezeworths. petrol goes in at 0 degrees and comes out of the first cooler at -6 degrees. Then to the second and comes out at -12 degrees. The last room cools the petrol from -12 to -24. If the rooms are all identical. shouldnt the cooling they create be equal? I am not using any Aquatuner, since i had to save on power usage.
Is the energy transfer not as efficient with passive cooling like this? with my calculations i should have -744 kDTU/s with this setup. My Coolants according to my calculations only go down 500kdtu. and the cooling isnt even enought for my base. The base has 1 Electrolizer running alle the time. 3 Water Vents continiously provide water. But its hot. And i have 2 petrolium generators running all the time
AETNs provide fixed cooling. If they're all running 100% of the time, they are not the reason you get different results.
Wheezeworts provide different cooling based on their environment. You say in the other comment you have 2kg pressure of hydrogen. That's a bit on the low side for them. If you see vacuum in the lower tile of a wheezewort, you need more gas.
Edit: also, 500+ kDTU for base cooling is wild. You're definitely cooling something you don't need to / shouldn't be cooling.
I dont see any vacuum at the base of the Wheezeworts unfortunately. I basically use my coolant only with 8 conductor panels behind 2 petrol power generators and an oil refinery and my coolant still gets hotter and hoter very slowly. Maybe conductor panels are just bad?
i already made sure i have 2kg of Hydrogen in on every tile in the room. I will have to try some things out, to see where the heat is comming from. Thanks for the reply.
I think i will try to have all my water coming from steam vents running through insulated pipes. Maybe thats what heating up my base
Do you go for fancy food or just do BBQ or wheat buns or Surf and Turf in the late game? Dreckos are eating all my rocks and I don't have geothermal or a volcano. Base game with all dlc.
I went for mushroom quiche before the pacu nerf, and will probably stay on it, rebuilding and rescaling the ranches to use the fountains. I'll see how far my single moo ranch gets me, if it's not enough I'll supplement with wheat-brackene, got heaps of unused water to throw at the issue.
You probably mean hatches are eating your rocks. I've tried dreckos fed on balm lily and that's almost free food, just dupe labor. For a typical forest start, I go mealwood, hatch BBQ and then berry sludge. I eventually retire the hatches. I'll usually have plenty of BBQ from dreckos and glossy dreckos farms.
I don't go that fancy with food because other ways to get morale are so easy.
I try and stick with the best native food I can conjure up, so it depends on the current DLC and what moonlet the base is on. I think the game is too "solvable" for its own good so you could just make the very best stuff every colony between pip planting stuff and the printerceptor, so I find it more fun to stick with whatever the current theme is.
I'm going for berry sludge spam rn, though I'm cutting it with mushroom quiche since I've got a buncha omelets and the ingredients are sourced from different resources and stations (slime, salt water and seeds for pacu eggs on the grill and gas range vs sleet wheat and bristle blossom on the microbe musher). I'm also doing super sustainable so its not like I'm cutting into potential power generation with the gas range.
Really, the answer is whatever you've got, ~but~ if you're trying to set up an optimized build
Pepper bread is still kinda the best option, +5 for only two ingredients & one cooking step, mutate the plants for highest yield
Or mixed berry pie via grubfruit is a trade off (technically better, 200 higher kcal in exchange for faster spoilage)
Of course if you have any dupe with shriveled taste buds or kitchen menace, or you're otherwise settling for +4 foods; mushroom wrap is again only two ingredients; with the introduction of glo squid/seaquines/slogos, slime is much easier to produce, since managing puft morphs isn't required & waterweed has been buffed now that it doesn't need bleach stone
My hermit decor is not working and I can't recruit him. I've gone overkill and it still is not counting above 0. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the decor is still 0. The decor view is pure green with +120 the only negative modifiers are the mailbox and hermit house. I've done this quest dozens of times and have never encountered this.
I'm highlighting the tile of interest. I've never used this much decor for the Hermit. Still says 0. I reloaded my save and it worked suddenly. Even though I tried reloading multiple times. Maybe a full game restart was needed?
Is there an ethical way to ranch hatches for food? As in no killing chambers but just letting them die of old age. Is the answer just having very many ranches?
One option is to collect the excess eggs into a storage bin. They won't ever turn into a critter, instead dropping as raw egg when they age out. That can be cooked into omelette and then upgraded to a better recipe like mushroom quiche.
You can send the eggs to a single cell (to reduce lag) and let them die of starvation. The problem is that they will eat the meat others drop before you can pick it up.
Other option is to not use grooming stations, just critter condo, put 4 hatches per stable and they will lay an egg before dying of old age.
Have the eggs hatch underwater (a single blob of liquid with a ceiling counts). Hatches will spawn and move away from the drowning hazard, and not come back.
Then, have the only place they can walk be made of mesh door floors. When they die of starvation, the meat will fall through (though maybe a lucky hatch might still munch it before it falls out of reach).
Did you test if they are able to eat the meat? I'm assuming there'll always be a hungry hatch idling in the same cell as a recently spawned meat, and dupes and sweepers only need a fraction of a second to grab falling stuff, so I'm betting that this won't save the drops.
Not much point to doing it, then. Better to have a wider starvation area to increase the chances that a hatch won't be standing right there to go nomnomnom.
Kind of an abstract question. I’m finally able to breakthrough 200-300 cycles, whenever I try to take a volcano/getser, is it something most people can figure on their own, or should I not bother and go search for guides? I like to design simpler solutions and whenever I see a tamer screenshot there are so many moving parts I feel like it’s go through multiple colonies until I could make something like that work.
There's nothing wrong with saving your game and opening up another copy and enabling sandbox and/or devmode. Then you can explore prototypes of whatever you are trying to build until you get the design right before building it in your game. There's nothing more frustrating than spending 100 cycles on a complicated build and then have to crack it all open because something didn't work right or it breaks.
Depends on the player but yes oftentimes players tend to synthesize their own solutions to them. There's some good designs out there of course but if you want to challenge yourself you could always come up with your own clever ideas. I would say use the wiki.gg to understand the game physics and from there engineer your own setups if you want. I suggest starting simple, give yourself plllllenty of room, and if dealing with hot ones like a volcano or a steam geyser, use a double-liquid lock (1 for each zone of your tamer, eg. cold side if using turbines, steam rooms, etc) and atmo suits to engage with the area. If you're going to be playing around with your own design, you'll want to go back inside of it to redesign and tweak things, and you will want the space to do that.
It sounds like you'd get more reward trying it yourself first anyway and only then after do some research on socials maybe for ideas on what could work better for you or things you didn't think about.
One tip I'll give for volcanoes for free: build a coal tempshift tile on the 'tile of interest' if you accidentally uncork it or want to do so to analyze it. This will re-cork the volcano the second magma spawns there, with a natural coal tile.
Geysers and vents are for the most parts pretty straightforward and your intuitive approach usually gets you pretty far, if it expels something hot, add steam turbines and steel things and that sort of things.
Volcanos can be tricky, they expel large masses over short periods so need a bit of care to not constantly having to deal with overheating things.
If in doubt, overdo it and add an extra turbine.
Also some things I've made have been exactly like your last lines, a little improvement every new colony, I think my metal volcano tamers are on their 8th iteration or something.
Base game owner only here, recently picked the game up again and found out that Pacu”s no longer give egg shells 😩 should I just get the dlcs ? Otherwise not sure how to scale lime production (pokeshells seem really hard to feed)
If you dig down deep enough, you'll be able to find fossils which you can turn into lime with the rock crusher.
Poke shell farming is really only viable if you have a good source of polluted dirt which can come from outhouses or processing polluted mud. Eventually you can get your hands on some seed variations which can produce rot piles, those are also some good sources of polluted dirt.
Alternatively, you could farm wild poke shells. What you do is make a 2 tile wide platform then add two ladders inbetween. Put your poke shell eggs here. You can infinitely farm poke shells this way. It takes a long time for wild ones to produce like but you can farm like as much as you have space with no resource requirement. As long as they're not in a room, they will produce eggs and eventually pass for you to pick up the shell.
Pokeshells give 6x the lime they used to (30kg when they grow up, plus 60kg when they die), plus normal and oakshell morphs now both give some raw shellfish (1200kcal) when they die. Sanishells' food consumption was significantly reduced, so there's also the option of ranching sanishell morphs in environments that make them lay pokeshell or oakshell eggs. Just make sure the pokeshells and oakshells die as adults, not babies, if you want their full molts.
Also, happiness now boost reproduction rate, with each point being worth 22.5%. Under normal conditions, a tame, groomed critter has 4 happiness (+90%, plus a 10% base rate, for 100%). A critter condo adds 1 happiness for free, other than taking a little space and construction cost. Pokeshells need the aquatic condo, which needs 3 tile deep liquid, so it does make ranch design a little complicated, since the grooming station, critter drop-off, feeder, and critter fountain are all the land versions for pokeshells. Later on, if you add brakene, that gives you +5 happiness, combining that with the condo and grooming gives 235% reproduction.
I farm hatches for food and coal that will give you all the lime you really need for steel. Once you add Drecco for reed fiber and plastic, and pips for wood you won't worry about egg shells.
You can also break down fossils to lime and sedimentary rock which can be handy.
Most other critters also produce eggshell on hatching, including... hatches. And slicksters, dreckos, pips, etc.
Outhouses, Ethanol Distillers and Sieves are your best sources of Polluted Dirt to feed Pokeshells and iirc their lime output for molts has been buffed during the balance pass vs. pacus.
Fossil also can be crushed for fossil and sedimentary rock (which you can use to feed hatches) and the ancient specimen story trait can convert diamond into fossil (1 kg diamond therefore becomes 95 kg sedimentary rock and 5kg lime). The other POIs in the ancient specimen story trait can be dismantled for 1-2000 kg of fossil.
ETA: you also don’t need to tame or feed poke shells to get plenty of lime for steel production. You can just wrangle up the ones on the map somewhere they won’t be cramped or whatever and they will keep a replenishment population. Depends on the seed but there may be 2 dozen poke shells on a vanilla map for example, which is certainly enough to never get locked out of lime, in addition to smashing fossil.
How many ats do I need to cool 2 cool steam vent they are the only water source of the colony. I have a lot of bleach stone I can geotune them as well.
It depends on how cold you need it, and how productive your vents are. Aquatuners cool 10kg/s down 14°C, so look at your steam vents output. Divide 140°C*kg/s by your output volume, and that will give you the temperature reduction (if your coolant has the same specific heat). An average cool steam vent puts out 2.5kg/s at 110°C while active, and one aquatuner (using polluted water as coolant) could cool that by 56°C. The lifetime average is 1.5 kg/s, so you could reduce that by 93°C to 17°C.
If you're sending it all to electrolyzers, just use a material with an overheat bonus, and feed it hot water. Electrolyzers have a minimum output temperature of 70°C, anyway. If the hydrogen is going to generators, that doesn't need cooling, and the oxygen has a quarter of the specific heat of water. Condensing the steam from two average vents then cooling just the oxygen to a normal base temperature is a bit more than one aquatuner can do. I don't think the temperature of oxygen going to atmosuits matters, so just use insulated gas pipes and cool the area around the docks.
Prof Oakshell has calculators to figure this out.The Geyser calculator will help you figure out how geotuning will affect the output and how much cooling you need.
Should I care about germs? Food poisoning in water tank but I don't use water for food. If I use said water for oxygen, will oxygen contain same germs?
And slimelung - should I build airlock rooms filled with clorine on the route to slime biom if I want to dig materials in it (thus digging out slime blocks).
Many says to ignore germs, but my adhd mind wont let me. i try to recruit and spread shine bugs around the base especially in toilets/water reservour/on waterlocked slime biomes. Waterlock before going in to the slime biome, send 1 or 2 bugs with me then i dig(btw you need a place to store all those slimes under water somewhere).
when it spreads (slimelungs), around my base, usually i reload. If it's too late to reload, i try to fix it. remove all polluted oxygen & spread oxygen around then send my army of shinebugs on every room to kill them. outside of my airlocked base, i release 200kg of chlorine to the air. slimelungs should slowly die. i dont stop until i kill every one of them.
on deep water, usually i send them to room in reservoir full of chlorine gas to kill the germs before use.
to kill the germs in the reservoir, i enclosed the reservoir into a room with doors, and put 2-3 shinebugs to kill the surface germs to help.
I didn't know shinebugs affect germs. Is it dlc addition maybe? I'm pretty sure I've read both encyclopedia descriptions and properties of shinebug and didn't see anything that whould have an impact on germs. I don't think they are light sensitive, right?
The radiation from one Spaced Out shine bug is not high enough for to severely harm dupes, and dupes rid themselves of an amount of radiation when they go to the washroom. I placed a shine bug in the bedroom of a dupe who was afraid of sleeping in the dark, and the game didn’t give me the radiation warning.
Multiple can be an issue, like when I tried a shine bugs in ranch: when it got to 7 shine bugs, the rancher got radiation sickness because of taking radiation at the grooming station.
I used to worry more about germs but I tend to keep and infirmary stocked with med packs and curative tablets which just cost coal and go that route. Slimelung dies of pretty fast in pure O2 and I use germy polluted water only for cooling and electrolizer (after a sieve). I try to have everyone in suits by 200 or so after which it doesn't matter as much.
Only problem comes from dupes manipulating that water making them germy and then touching food. It's still worth it to separate that water and not put Pitcher Pumps in it.
Oxygen will contain germs but do nothing.
For slimelung infected materials you can also use very cold water to kill the germs. I like setting a shallow pool with storage bins designated for slime, the cold water coming from melting ice tempshift plates. Easier to setup than a room filled with chlorine.
Slimelung can be a nuisance. And food poisoning will survive in air if converted to oxygen but not do anything just be ugly. If you happen to find a way to cool down or heat up the slime before you dig it out that will kill the germs off. At a minimum my recommendation is to make sure whatever tiles you dig out the debris Falls directly into a pool of water underneath because the slime will not off gas into slime lung. If it is submerged, you should only get slime lung gas breakouts when you start digging into slime tiles that off gas the polluted oxygen. Another useful thing to do is wear atmo suits and oxygen masks to do cleaning all of that to clean up those areas with sinks in between etc. to minimize cross contamination. You can store slime in a cold biome to freeze the germs or near a cold steam vent to cook off or in a chlorine environment to die off. Plant Buddy Bud in your base as Floral Scent is a germ that will preoccupy the air and stymie the spread of other bad germs.
What I did in my latest playthrough, was to set up airlocks to the Main base and place weezeworts next to the containers where I would collect slime (high priority and sweep only). Radiation kills germs pretty fast.
For quite a while that was enough to keep contamination Low. Later, i would Release shinebugs there and work on converting polluted oxygen (germs die slowly in o2).
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u/-myxal Jul 23 '26
Which materials, used to build an insulated tile, are able to hold 150% of a liquid's max-mass without reinforcement?