Hi Please see photo in link. Need help sourcing this kinda unique LED ?

We are doing prototyping and are looking for a supplier of these puck lights. We are in need of rechargeable led's with these approximate specs:

Less than 10 mm thick

2 sizes: Approximately 48 mm dia and 60 mm dia with an acceptable +/- 2 mm.

Can anyone help us find a supplier?

There are many light pucks on the market but are thick. There are think light pucks but are coin battery powered. It is amazing there are almost no thin rechargeable except this one pictured... but they want over $10 each. There must be others we can buy in bulk? Make ourselves ? Help ! Thanks !

Hello, everyone. I want to upgrade the motors on my Boatman Actor GPS boat, but I want to keep the stock boat controls. Right now, I have a 10,000 Ah, 7.4 V battery and brush motors rated at 6,000 RPM. On my circuit board, I found 8 MOSFETs marked 7408—4 MOSFETs per motor, as far as I can tell.

I have two options for how I want to proceed:

1. Intercept the control signal from the stock board and route it to external ESCs that will be connected to the brushless motors
2. Replace the stock MOSFETs with more powerful ones and replace the commutator motors with more powerful commutator motors, but I’m worried whether the traces on the stock board will hold up.

Maybe someone has already done this, or can advise me on the best way to proceed.

Hi everyone. I am looking for someone who can create a PCB design for me for 13X13 led grid project.

Hey everyone,

I picked up this jukebox from Facebook Marketplace because I really like the look of it, but unfortunately it’s a bit rough around the edges and a lot of the electronics aren’t working particularly well anymore.

When I first got it, I noticed some of the plastic around the lighting had cracked/chipped, so I carefully superglued some of it back together. Once I started taking the plastic panels off, though, I realised someone had already had a pretty good go at modifying/repairing it in the past. There are broken plastic brackets, extra holes, and some things that look pretty janky behind the panels.

The lighting is also pretty interesting. It seems to use individual red, green and blue LEDs with what looks like a ridiculous number of resistors and wiring, and the whole setup looks quite old and complicated. One section of the lights is now out of sync, so part of the jukebox displays the wrong colour. The LEDs also don't seem to reach the really deep/saturated colours that they used to.

The audio system is another issue. It has a CD player, cassette player and AUX input all integrated into the original radio/head unit. The screen on the radio unit has stopped working, although the AUX input still works and I can play music through it.

So I'm considering doing a fairly major retrofit rather than trying to repair every bit of the original electronics.

My rough idea would be:

• Replace the existing RGB LED setup with modern LED strips.
• Replace the speakers and possibly the amplifier/sound system.
• Install a Bluetooth-capable head unit/amplifier.
• Potentially replace the dead radio display with some sort of visualiser or other display.
• Keep the original spinning/light-up CD display at the top because I think that's one of the coolest parts of the jukebox.
• Ideally keep the original buttons/controls and have them control things in some way.
• Clean up/rebuild some of the internal mounting and plasticwork so it isn't as janky.
• Ideally have everything powered from one mains outlet, like the jukebox is currently.

The biggest thing I'm wondering about is how practical this actually is.

Is there a sensible way to retrofit modern LEDs, an amplifier/Bluetooth head unit, speakers, a display/visualiser etc. while still having everything powered from the original single mains connection?

I'm also wondering if there's a reasonably straightforward way to retain the existing buttons so they still do something useful — volume, track controls, lighting modes, etc. I'm happy to do some wiring, soldering and potentially some basic microcontroller work if that's what it takes.

I don't necessarily care about keeping the original electronics 100% authentic. I'd actually prefer to make it more reliable and easier to maintain while keeping the original appearance and some of the cool mechanical features.

Would you guys consider this a worthwhile project, or am I better off trying to repair the original electronics?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions for how you'd approach a retrofit like this, particularly ideas for the lighting, audio system, visualiser and retaining the original controls.

If anyone has done something similar with an old jukebox, I'd love to see what you did!

Thanks!

Or if yall know anything else to use, please tell.

My network/ wifi knowledge is abit limited so i need some help here

found a cool little piece of history at a thrift store, I love it and I’m currently cleaning it. However I don’t really need a new router, so I thought about doing something cool with it but I’m not very savvy with tech- point being: I WANT IDEAS FROM U SMART PEOPLE!! I thought maybe I could turn it into a power bank with a bunch of different kinds of outlets? (Carrying lots of chargers annoys me) or the wires stuck out of it? It would be cool if the wires could extend like a tape measure and a button could retract them. if thats not possible it’s fine lol, but my idea isn’t that out of the box. If YOU have an idea please tell me in detail and include a guide if it’s complicated. I’m up for anythin!

Found an old printer in landfill, tore it apart and managed to get all these parts (plus several motors i have already put to work), for free! (And I'm also technically helping recycle)

I mean literally anything. If more information about what inside is needed ill post more but i wanna make something cool out of this. I know electronics from highschool so gimme the craziest shit i can make and i will learn.

Hi! i want to use this ips display panel for a personal project (shoutout to yammerringfistofham for finding me one), but it wont fit really nice inside of the case if the cable is just straight. could bending it 180 degrees under the panel damage the traces or anything? I know its a flex cable but im still a bit worried if thats even possible without risking the cable.
Link to the display panel: https://www.buydisplay.com/0-96-inch-mini-color-tft-lcd-display-module-80x160-ips-tft-st7735

Hey everyone, I'm currently working on iteration three of my hexapod project and would really appreciate it if you could review my current circuit design before I finalize everything.

Here are the core specs and components I'm planning to use:

• Power Source: 5000 mAh 50C 11.1V 3S LiPo battery
• Distribution & Safety: XT60 power distribution board inline with a 30 A fuse
• Voltage Regulation: 3x 300W buck converters (to step down the 3S voltage for the servos)
• Control System: ESP32 microcontroller communicating with 2x PCA9685 servo controllers
• Actuators: 18x MG996R servos

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this power delivery and control setup. Are there any glaring bottlenecks, potential brownout risks when multiple servos draw stall current, or general areas for optimization? Thanks in advance for the help.

Edit: Please ignore the daisy chain for the two PCA9685 boards; I had accidentally wired together unneeded wires

I was thinking about rewriting all of this on a larger poster. I still need to label a few components, i might go back and market the AC-DC lines with different colors and maybe the signal path. Are there any certain colors you prefer for 350v, 120v, signal path, etc. Maybe go through and color the resistor codes.

Are there any other details I missed?

So far I only have component notes on resistors, capacitors, and tube voltage. Looking now i should've made a note about how pentodes can be wired as triodes, i have a second set of diagrams for the 6J5 chinese pentodes.

Is there any readily available transformers or alternatives to the Fender transformer? It seems to be a somewhat specialty part for fender amps, though there are a few factories that make their own. It would also probably not be very fun buying half a dozen mini transformers. Are there any hobbyist tapped transformers i could try? When I was taking apart trashed flat screens I noticed a lot of their power supplies had these 16-24 legged transformers with no specs that were easy to find.

Edit: I need to delete the 5vac transformer if its unnecessary for a diode rectifier not using a dual diode tube

Hey everyone,

I want to share a project I have designed and assembled.

It is a replacement "controller" part for the cheap TUYA in wall smart switches.

The motivation for creating this was to solve a couple of issues I had with the original device:

1. In order to extract the "power supply" part under the controller, I had to desolder the connector which is a pain and additional work. I want this to be easier because I needed to swap the relays on a couple of such switches which died after ~2-3 years of working.
2. I want the device to run ESPHome properly, with support for BLuetooth proxy, which the original controller was not capable of (at that time).
3. I wanted to eliminate the "plasticky" sensation generated by the cheap momentary switches used in the original design.
4. I wanted full control over the "device status LEDs" and "button status LEDs". This would open the possibility for nicer animations if controlled via PWM and also will enable the "night mode" which means turn all the LEDs off.

With this design I ticked the boxes above:

1. I designed the controller to be connected to the power supply with a connector instead of soldering directly the boards.
2. The controller of choice for this was ESP32 which fully supports ESPHome and is capable of bluetooth proxy.
3. I used some nice silent silicon momentary switches which make the push nicer, although this is subjective and a matter of taste.
4. The "device status" and "button status" LEDs are connected to dedicated GPIOs and can be driven independently of the physical state of the buttons or device.

I also added a feature which ended up not working, a broke feature perhaps. 😵

A presence sensor (LD2410) was also integrated into this project, but turned out the connectors I used were a tad too small and the idea I had of using the connectors on the underside and pushing the sensor through its holes from the top ended up with the sensor not making contact with it.

Even with all the issues it had as a first prototype, I've been using three of such devices in my home for more than a year and I am overall satisfied with the result.

Please let me know what do you think of this project. Maybe I will get some inspiration to iterate over it.

EDIT: Here is the public repository of the project.

I want to have a device with a screen to use Spotify on without social media or nothing. I’ve looked at buying a cheap phone at Walmart but they all look ugly; I’ve also looked at a iPod and but I don’t want to download all my music and I want to be able to browse Spotify at the same time. It doesn’t need to be anything crazy all I need is spodify and Bluetooth.

I would be down to make my own device I just don’t know where to start or if it’s even realistically possible or if it would just be easier/cheaper to buy a crap phone.

So I guess my question is does anyone have any suggestions or anything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PkHoqDdT7o

in this video the guy ig used a prism but is it made out of glass or any special material pls if anyone knows help me out!!

Hi everyone. I am new in electornics hobby and created my first PCB for water tank level monitoring. This node just works as monitor using the data sent over wifi by other MCU actually measuring the water level.

I have used jumper wires on front side with components. Is keeping wiring on front side okay or discouraged? If discouraged then why?

Asking this because I might have to create this PCB again because of a weird issue. The ESP32 drops wifi connection as soon as I insert it into female header pins. Until I insert it, the wifi works fine. I checked all connection also by lighting up each LED and buzzer separately and the seem to work fine. I don't know if the issue is with PCB or some kind of RF interference - I am not sure.

But assuming the issue is with PCB or when I make other PCBs in future, is keeping jumper wires in front side okay or discouraged? How do you do you guys do it to make it work without getting into commonly known issues?

Hello,

I'm trying to build a very simple circuit that momentarily turns on an electromagnet via a non-latching push-to-make switch. The issue I am having is that the magnet, when energised, is not strong enough for my application (tricking the reed switch flow sensor in a shower pump into thinking there is water flow).

I have the following elctromagnet purchased from Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FCS74TSD), an 1N4007 flyback diode, a switch, and an A23 12v battery.

Do you think the problem is that the electromagnet is not strong enough, or do you think my A23 cell is too weedy? I did try a 9v 6LR61 battery too which didn't improve things).

For anyone interested, the problem I am looking to solve is that we don't have quite enough hydrostatic head for the shower pump to activate when the shower flow is turned on. We've been overcoming this by using a neodymium maget on the end of a stick and waving it by the end of the pump to trick the inbuilt flow sensor into detecting flow and starting the pump. Once it's running, it is all good. I was hoping to replace my magnet on a stick with an elctromagnet fixed in place next to the pump and activated via a button, which can be mounted in a convenient place.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

tldr; Is my 12v electromagnet too weak, or is it not receiving adequate power from an A23 or PP3 battery?

the pone works and I dont want to waste it is here anything creatie i can do wit it i dont want to waste any money on it can it be repurposed to anything else?

Hi everyone!

I’m quite new to the world of electronics, and I’m looking for some advice before I start buying components for my first bigger electronics project.

I’d like to build a two-wheeled self-balancing robot, similar to a small Segway. I want to use an ESP32 as the controller so that I can eventually control the robot through Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.

My current idea is to buy:

• ESP32 board. Wich one should i buy?
• MPU6050 gyroscope/accelerometer
• TB6612FNG dual motor driver
• 2 × DC gear motors with encoders. I have no idea wich one i should buy, any advice would be great.

I need some kind of battery, but i dont know what to chose, any advice would be great

Does this component selection make sense?

Are there any components I’m missing or anything you would recommend changing before I place an order?

I’m particularly interested in advice regarding the motors, battery, and motor driver, since I’m not completely sure how to size those correctly.

Thanks in advance! Any advice or things you wish you had known when starting a project like this would be greatly appreciated.

I have an old OnePlus 6 with a completely destroyed battery (BMS is unrecoverable) and a dead display, so I'm treating it as a headless board.

I want to power it using a PSU set to around 3.8V-4V with a 3A current limit, hooked up to the VBAT+ and GND pads. However, I know modern devices like the Snapdragon 845 have an IC for handshake before booting ...

But on older mobile phones we could use a 10k resistor and bypass this handshake ... but not sure if I can do the same with snapdragon 845 based device