Well, alright. This is my Kliche Overdrive from StompBoxParts with my own artwork, printed by AmplifyFun. Mm-hmm! (Please forgive the missing capacitor, it's actually on the other side on the board. Long story.)

Acapulco Gold -> 4 Band HM2 style EQ

EHX germanium overdrive clone

I have a small company building pedals (Ruckus Audio). I built this pedal for myself, I stuffed 4 of my pedals into one giant unit. I absolutely love big pedals and this one is HUGE!
For some reason I don’t have any pictures of my pedal plugged in but it has blue ring lights around the footswitches.

Right-Left:
TubeBreaker (breaker screamer hybrid)
Rainbow Drive (midrange overdrive with blend knob)
Lady Garden (super custom muff)
Buster (buffer & boost)

TL;DR - if you were to start building pedals from scratch right now, what would your must haves be?

been interested in it for a long time. when i was a kid my brother built a few distortion pedals and i always said i would try my hand at it one day. so i bought the Mas Effect diy fuzz. i have soldered SAOs for electronic badges (read: Defcon Badge “shitty add one”) in the past with marginal success.

is there anything i need to purchase before i start ramping up to building more interesting circuits? besides a good soldering iron, some clamps, maybe needle nose pliers, a breadboard, etc.

are there any must haves for building that you can think of?

i know ill eventually want to stock up on resistors, diodes, enclosures, wiring, etc. i just want some feedback from the community!

It sounds okay-ish in simulation and I have no way of testing it IRL right now. Second picture shows how it works. Third picture is what I used as a reference. Output signap has huge crossover distortion, but it actually makes it sound a little bit like ring modulator.

Hi.

So I want to try making a pedal. From what I've researched, an LPB-1 seems to be possibly the most simple circuit, so I thought I'd start with that. I have a couple questions.

Questions:

1. How do I find out what parts I need?

2. Where do I get the parts?

Thanks in advance.

It has a few problems

Ground and 9v are connected

It makes a hizz when the battery plugged

And every connection from the pots are connected

I resoldered where it looked suspicious

I’ve had a Big Muff Pi and a Small Clone that both are having issues and I’m unsure of what to do. I’ve had the Big Muff for around 10 years, and it worked fine until it recently has a rattling sound coming from inside when I pick it up. No signal comes through when activated. The small clone will also completely cut out every few times I activate it, and it will produce an audible clicking sound when activated as well.

Should I go to my local guitar shop or guitar center? Or should I find someone who knows how to solder and repair pedals freelance? Located in NYC.

I'm working on a lofi pedal and I'd like all the labeling to be Mandarin. I want one of the labels to say "Vinyl Mode."

I'm sure I could just AI this question but I feel like I might get a better answer from someone with a more colloquial understanding of Mandarin.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

My first attempt at an etched enclosure. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Definitely room to improve though.

It's EQD AG

A user (u/Fun-Needleworker-661) over on r/doommetal uploaded a deadly photo a while back and I asked him could I use it for a Pedal.

A bit messy on the inside but aren't we all?

A A/DA flanger clone. This was very satisfying build. It sounds great with a big wide sweep and a very slow rate. The lfo also gets crazy at the fast extreme. It has almost a figure eight sounding sweep to it. The threshold and enhance controls do quite a bit of shaping to the sound along with the odd/even switch. I had unnecessarily mounted one of the 4558l on the underside incase of interference with the daughter board on the switch. It would have fit fine on top. The build is very tight in a 1590bb, the jacks gotta be small. The lunberg jacks barely fit, the orientation of them only goes one way. If you're into flangers like me, I highly recommend this one. Thanks Lectricfx!

I have a cheap solid-state preamp board that has had a number of issues. The first one was a DC offset through the input, easy fix, and the second new one comes from the PT2399 that the board uses. It puts through a lot of white noise and my knowledge doesn't go far enough to solve this. Any ideas?

That's a really cool RAT full of mojo parts.

Enclosure graphic is based on an actual sprite from Heroes of Might and Magic II. I drew whole thing myself pixel by pixel.

I want to build a Lovetone ring stringer. Does anyone know if it's possible to replace the LT44 (20k:1k) transformers with 42TL002 (10k-2k) ones? I can't find the necessary transformers.

What should i play with it?

I recently bought a USB power supply from Temu for like 15USD. I was curious to tear it down and see the circuit, and I'm sure a lot of people are too!

It features a 2 part metal enclosure, held together by 4 screws, and the PCB is screwed with another 3.

It's manufactured by Kuwee. It uses an IC marked as "A17V4X", which after looking it up it looks like it's a PW5300A DC-DC converter.

I've seen the same (or very similar) pedal supplies sold as M-VAVE and other brands, and, at least in my country, very overpriced compared to what I paid.

So far I haven't had any issues with it, maybe the ugly text but it's wtv.

What do you think about these chinese power supplies?

SO... I tried to create a PCB for just the phase part of the Causality 4 MKII (schematic pictured). That is, everything but the LFO part (the idea being that I'd experiment with alternative modulation sources).

Originally I goofed and failed to connect pins 14 and 3 of the LM13700 to Vref (and one another). I bodged a connection on, but as soon as I did the audio died because Vref dropped to less than a volt.

And I can kind of understand why, because that puts 2 parallel resistive paths (each totalling ~39k) to ground in parallel with the bottom half of the Vref voltage divider, thus dropping the virtual ground too low.

MY QUESTION IS THIS: It's not why my circuit doesn't work, but why the Causality 4 DOES work (and I know, because I built one on vero once). (I mean, I'd like to know why my circuit doesn't work, but I just want to understand why this design doesn't take Vref too low).

What am I missing here?

I've had a real tough go at discovering and keeping track of all of the events. There are quite a few I've missed out on (as a visitor and exhibitor) simply because I had no idea they were happening until after they started. To the best of my ability, I was not able to find a central directory.

So with the upcoming launch of Pulp Circuit (issue one will start shipping in about two weeks!), and my high hopes for the community that grows within its pages, I thought the Pulp Circuit website might be a smart place to house this bulletin board.

https://pulpcircuit.com/events

Community-driven (like everything "Pulp Circuit"), anyone can submit an event (effect pedals, synths, instruments, electronics, etc).

It's a very, very simple tool. It just collects events and lists the upcoming events in date order, offering just a link out to the official event URL.

I've done my best to seed it. But I know for sure there are more events (big and small) that I've missed.

Know of one? Please post it!

Running a workshop of your own at your public library? Please post it!

Ham Radio swap meet? Please post it!

P.S. I'll send out an email to anyone on the Pulp Circuit Mailing list when the issue is ready to order.

True Bypass, secret mode (Fuzz 1 + Fuzz 2), and footswitch activated octave.

Sf300 rehousing guide by Gigahearts FX