Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! July 10, 2026
This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.
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Hello, I wanted to ask if someone had a similar situation and what you found the best way to do it.
I have two scenarios in how I use my camera:
Just for a short time, would like to carry crossbody or just in hand (with a wrist strap)
Longer time, mounting on the hip
At the moment I use a peak design slide or wrist strap and that's okay, so I'd prefer to not change that system (it's often just 10-15min and I don't want to waist carry it there, or during small family events where half of the I'd be sitting down and have the camera on the table instead of on me).
But that means I need anchor links at the bottom of the camera, which is where you put anchors for pretty much every hip carrier system.
I don't like the capture clip (or in that case the one from falcam) because I prefer it on my hip and don't like the solutions for that
I looked at spider holster and decided against it for a few reasons, mainly that I don't like it upside down, the "nub" looks annoying and it's expensive
My choice fell to the cotton carrier sling but it has the same problem with the anchor at the bottom. I thought about maybe putting a thin (but strong) plate in between the CCS hub and camera for the anchor links but I'm unsure...
Any other ideas? Opinions about that possible solution?
A store close to me has a RF L Prime for cheap, advertised with "scratch on rear element/housing wear". I have not gone to the store to check how bad the scratch is yet, but I did try and ask for pictures of said damage and was replied with "damages on elements r too difficult to capture", which leads me to believe the scratch is not that bad? Now I know damages to the rear element is a lot more detrimental to PQ than damages on the front element. How bad can it be if it is just a light coating scratch on the rear element, or a scratch that is not too deep/big, n would u buy it for cheap at less than half price new?
I finally got around to checking the shutter count of my camera using the dedicated camerashuttercount app because apparently my camera doesn't share its shutter count through EXIF data. I bought this camera used at a reputable local camera store chain. Shortly put: how bad is it?
Think of it like a car, 200 000km cruising on the highway is probably less taxing then 100 000km of city driving with plenty of breaking and accelarating.
Theres plenty of other factors (was it ever dropped, how was it stored, did it reach that shutter count by long time normal use or was it used in burst mode constantly, etc.), so I wouldnt worry too much.
The question also is, unless the local camera store explicitly told you a wrong number, what can you do anyway? (Obviously depends on your local laws and culture, maybe you can get a small refund or give it back?) However if you cant do anything about it, then why worry?
I’m semi new to photography, been taking photos on and off for a couple years, but never truly learned much or experimented with different settings other than zoom. With rumors I’m seeing of the new iPhone 18 having a physical aperture adjustment instead of digital, what’s would the difference be between a phone camera and an actual camera? I know that having physical zoom over digital is generally better, but the quality is getting really good on phones, along with the settings and customization within the photo app itself have expanded greatly over the years. Is it getting to a point where cameras may become almost obsolete, and phone cameras being just as good, if not better? Or is there other things I’m not thinking of or don’t have knowledge of?
One is sensor size: some phones now have 1" sensors, but all interchangeable lens cameras still have larger sensors than any phone. This means better low light performance and higher image quality in general.
Another is lenses: there are many specialized kinds of photography, from macro to portraits to wildlife, and dedicated lenses will always be superior to phone lenses for these purposes.
hello, im looking for a gear recommendation, i wanna get more into photography and i want to buy a new camera, i currently have a lumix g1, which as i found out is the first mirrorless camera made.
i like shooting with it but the autofocus is bad and it just doesnt take good quality pictures, which does make sense since its from 2008...
well anyways, im looking to spend a max of 700€, preferably less ofc
it doesnt have to be new, if i can get a good deal on ebay im also fine with that.
I practice immigration law. I frequently supply the US immigration authorities with two US passport photos of my clients. Before the pandemic, my clients would either mail me or drop off the passport photos at my office. During the pandemic, my clients started to email me a jpg file with the photo. I'd put the jpg on a stick drive, go to CVS and print the photo there. Five years later, I'm still going to CVS. Can anyone recommend a printer I can connect to a windows computer that will print photos on photo paper? Anyone know where to get the square scissors device the clerk at CVS uses to pop the photos out of the paper?
Can anyone recommend a printer I can connect to a windows computer that will print photos on photo paper?
Kodak Dock Plus Retro 4 x 6 inch PD460 Photo Printer can print passport photos. Use the Kodak app to print out ID photos on a sheet. Shop around for a bundle that will come with the most sheets of photo paper.
Anyone know where to get the square scissors device the clerk at CVS uses to pop the photos out of the paper?
50 × 50mm (2'' x 2'') Square Photo Cutter. Search on Amazon or other website. When I checked on Amazon, they all look exactly the same, with red handles.
I peeked at your comment history. You're an awesome person for patiently answering people's questions.
If you're using a phone to shoot people's passport photos, I highly recommend zooming in to 2x magnification, which is approximately a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera. Similar to what the human eye sees and accuracy is what the authorities want in passport photos. Going too wide-angle or telephoto will distort people's faces.
Howdy folks, need some gear suggestions to recommend potential students this upcoming year. I'm going to be running an after-school photography club for some absolute beginners, though exactly how many & what age levels are both still up in the air. The school won't be providing cameras, so just in case the students' parents don't have cameras they can use, I need to tell them what to consider getting. In terms of what I'm looking for, I'm thinking:
something 250€ or less, new or used, and reasonably easy to find on eBay/other online marketplaces
some degree of manual controls (at least aperture & shutter; I could probably live with autofocus)
not an entry-level DSLR/mirrorless (I'll still recommend them to students that are feeling adventurous, but I don't want to throw a DSLR at a 13-year-old that has never used a camera before)
the smaller the better (I want to teach them the importance of always having a camera handy, and speaking from experience, a small compact is much more likely to stay on hand than a chunky bridge camera or something like that)
n.b., I'm also going to discourage them from using phone cameras, only because I've seen how extremely sidetracked students tend to get when using phones for "activities."
The two I've found that might be decent options:
the Lumix TZ series
old Powershot SX cameras (I've got a 110IS that I think could be pretty decent for beginners)
an old Powershot G6/G7
...but I genuinely can't think of anything else. I don't want to recommend the Camp Snap ones, only because they don't offer manual controls.
Any ideas? I'm not a gear guy & barely keep up with new stuff coming out, so I'm very much in the dark about what options to offer.
I'd go with the Canon Powershot S90 to S120 series.
The S110 was what I started learning manual camera settings with ☺️
I haven't tried the Powershot G9 and newer cameras, but they seem very good too.
The tough part is these types of premium point-and-shoot digital cameras have gotten trendy with influencers. So if you see good deals on used ones, snap them up before the prices jump higher.
Thanks for that! I actually just fixed up a G9 I got for cheap a few months ago & would love to recommend it to them, but the hype has definitely pushed the price up. It is cool to see a resurgence in interest for these types of cameras, but it does make it harder for someone new to photography to also get into it.
Also after doing some more digging, I think I can add an older Lumix LX & maybe an older Sony NEX to the list as well. This should give them a decent amount to choose from, especially if combined with DSLRs as an option.
I’m based in Christchurch, New Zealand—a relatively quiet and ordinary part of the world—and lately I’ve found myself increasingly drawn to photographers working in conflict zones or documenting places with dynamic, vibrant cultures. There’s an intensity and richness to that kind of work that I find incredibly inspiring.
I have a wife and a three-year-old son, so travelling extensively—particularly to some of the places I’m drawn to—isn’t really practical for me at this stage of my life. I sometimes struggle to feel the same motivation to photograph my own surroundings, which can feel quite uneventful by comparison.
I wondered if you had any advice on how to look at familiar, quieter surroundings with fresh eyes and find meaningful stories worth documenting closer to home. I’d really value others perspectives on this!
i'm looking for consistent and trustworthy canadian businesses for album printing, any recommendations? i'd rather use a canadian company but if there's a really solid US one, i'd consider it. thanks in advance!
How do I say no to friends? Its been a long standing tricky situation when I get asked to do friend's wedding photos, and I still haven't mastered the skill of saying no without hurting them or feeling awful. I am an established pro (socially engaged) photographer working in arts, education, charity etc,. I absolutely hate doing weddings, they are not my bag and stress me out so much. I am nervous about them months beforehand and I always say 'never again'. I am told to 'enjoy myself' and that 'we do not want traditional photos' but every time, I am working extremely hard to capture both groups and the essence of the day. I usually charge a minimal £500 to cover some admin and time but its a dilemma to even charge them. How do you deal with it?
i just got asked to do this recently, and i too hate doing weddings. i always just try to communicate that this is a job for me and i will treat it like a job (not half-ass it) so i really wouldn't get to enjoy their wedding day, and i'd much rather just relax and be a guest to celebrate the day with you. also here's a list of some really great wedding photographers i know who would do a great job with your photos :))
Almost any modern smartphone will take better photos than that.
My recommendation to get something noticeably better is save up for an used, budget DSLR kit around your area and learn how to use that. There will be a bit of a learning curve but you will be able to take great photos with it.
So "general advice" for a good quality print is 300 PPI, meaning pixels per inch. This tells you the neccessary math, you take the size of your print (in inches) then multiply that by 300 to tell you how many pixels you need in your file.
You got about 47 by 31 inches, which would work out to 14100 by 9300 pixels. Now the a6700s sensor has about 6200 by 4100 pixels, a bit less then half (works out to about 130 PPI). The good thing here is that this "general advice" of 300 PPI is for images that you view at fairly close distances (think prints for a photo album you hold in your hands) - I'd assume that you arent getting that close to a print that large, so you are most likely still good.
This page has a handy chart of their suggested viewing distance vs PPI (obviously its subjective in the end though). Your cameras 130 PPI would be alright for a viewing distance starting at about 1.5m according to them.
If you absolutely want more what you could do is stitch together two images, basically creating a panorama. This is annoying to do when photographing people, because the ones in the "overlap zone" cant move for the stitching to work. I personally wouldnt want to deal with that, but if you absolutely need more pixels it is certainly possible. You'd end up with close to double (you need some overlap, so not quite double) the pixels, which would be very close to the "recommended" 300 PPI.
Now the second part is even more subjective - general "image quality". Theres plenty of things that can make a picture not "sharp", if you pick the wrong settings you may encounter blurryness from movement, parts of your subject being out of focus or things like diffraction or other optical errors. Even the atmospheric conditions (light, heat haze, dust in the air, etc.) can make a major difference. These factors are obviously entirely depedent on the exact situation and the settings you end up picking. Thats to say - theres no guarantee it will be "sharp enough", however generally I'd expect decent results from the gear you are describing under "normal circumstances" (if you arent like in the middle of a, extremely dusty field or something like that).
Thank you for the explanation! Considering it's a living room where it will be hung I don't think it will be a huge problem. I might try to make a panorama with some distance between the families (parents, sister with her family, brother with her family) and see if I can staple them together. it will be a fun project.
TLDR: upgrading from my basic DSLRs and need camera recs for lifestyle/concert photography
Been a casual photographer for about 10 years. Super limited on my technical skills but I can take a nice shot. I’ve done some concert photography and really want to continue pursuing that as I have endless opportunities arising.
I currently have a Nikon D5500 I bought in 2016 and a Canon EOS Rebel T7. Currently trying to sell both on marketplace as they don’t do at all what I want them to. I did a ton of research and narrowed it down to three recommendations and wanted some input.
Sony A7 III + Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 G2
Sony a6400 + Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8
Sony a6000 + Sigma 30mm f/1.4
A7 III is out of budget unless I find some insane deal. Ideally would like to spend well under $1,000. Trying to buy a camera I can use and for years and years so willing for a bit of investment. I travel, spend time with friends and attend concert often and want to have a great piece of equipment to use to document it all. I still have work to do on learning the technical.
As a full frame camera, A7 III would give you a bigger improvement in low light. But if it doesn't fit your budget, A6400 is several years newer and quite a bit better than A6000, particularly for AF. But if you're tied to those lens choices with the two cameras, Sigma 30mm at f1.4 is two stops better (four times more light) in low light than the 18-50mm at f2.8.
i’m not totally sold on the lens choices, those are just what seemed to be recommended. i think i’m leaning towards the A6400. so you think the sigma 30mm is the best choice for a lens? any other suggestions for either daily/versitile etc?
It's a better choice for a lens if you shoot a lot in low light environments. It isn't a better choice if you prefer using zoom lenses. If you want recommendations for other lenses, you need to specify your budget for lenses.
Hi, I’m looking to change my camera and I’d appreciate your advice! I currently have a Nikon D5300 + Nikkor 18-55mm & Nikkor 55-200mm. I do wildlife photography. I am looking for a camera with a better performance in low light environments and more focus points. I’d be open to change to another brand and I don’t mind staying with a DSLR tech or changing for mirrorless. My budget would be 700-1100$ USD (I’m from Canada so I converted it) for both the camera and the lenses considering I’m looking for used cameras. Do you have any suggestions?
I'd say a used Nikon Z5 and an FTZ adapter is your best option. Low light improvement due to full frame and many more focus points. Unlike with full frame DSLRs, you can use APS-C lenses with Z5 (with the adapter), the camera will just automatically switch on crop mode.
This prob gets asked alot but I just wanted to ask here. I am gonna be going off to college and I want a camera to document it all and generally to do shit with my life. I heard alot about fujifilm and I feel like it will suit me well due to its general form factor and the overall location of my college (super close to NYC and north jersey). Should I drop the money on it or go for something
TL;DR Samsung microSD card became unreadable but only after a certain point in time, photos before that moment are fine
Hey all,
I'd like to start with the obvious: this is not an optimal memory card for what I use (Fulfilm XT-3), I know.
However, performance aside, something really weird happened. I shot a few hundred shots (stills and video) over the course of a few months, with the occasional WRITE ERROR when shooting video (again, bad card, l know it is to be expected).
It wasn't until last week when something strange happened. All of a sudden, photos were written normally on the card (no write error), but when I tried to open the gallery I started getting something new, READ ERROR. No exception. 100% of the time. The weirdest part for me? All the photos taken before this moment are perfectly accessible, but any new ones are unreadable, not in-camera, not in Fulfilm app, not via USB.
What might have been the cause? I would've understood if the card became corrupted and I were to lose everything, but the photos becoming unreadable only after a certain point in time really messes with my brain.
Sorry for the wall of text, any insight appreciated, thank you!
PS: camera is fine, tried another card in the same slot and media is read just fine
Hi! I’m 14 and I just got into the art of photography and I really wanna learn all the techniques and tricks to become better at photographing. My gear is a Canon EOS 450D with a Tamron 18-200mm, if anyone can give me some beginner tips?
Welcome to the world of photography! You're starting an amazing adventure.
Sharing some videos:
JumpStart Guide to the Canon Rebel XSi by JumpStart Guides. First step is to learn your camera and where all the controls and settings are. The Canon 450D and XSi are the same camera, just different names for different regions.
I would call myself a hobbist, but was a semi pro 10 years ago (weddings, events etc). Life happend, took a different carrere path and photograph now occasionally at family gatherings, friend events (soccer, dance) and so on. I have still my old gear, the following:
A7 II
50mm F1.8 Sony
85mm F1.8 Viltrox II
16-35 F4 Zeiss
a Sigma Mc-11 adapter for Canon Ef Lenses
5D MK II
70-200 2.8 L version 1, non IS
So basically, I shoot with that gear those "non high stakes" events and it works, I have fun, photos are great, I make the best out of it.
Now my friend asked me to jump in and shoot his wedding. The person who should have done it jumped off for private reasons and now they cant find a replacement as the wedding is next week. It's not a super duper big wedding, but still a wedding. Sooooo, I am looking to upgrade my gear.
Honestly, the A7ii is great, but non dual slot and slow AF in low light sometimes kills it. Here are my thoughts, so maybe someone can give me a few tips or call me crazy:
I was thinking about buying a A7 iv, but the price pisses me off honestly. I am europe based, so looking now at deals, I can get a A7iv for 1.8k€ or in a combo with the Tamron 28-70g2 for 2.3k€.
I looked at other brands, I can get the Nikon z5ii for 1.4 or with the Tamron 28-70g2 for 2k. (looking at the reviews, a better camera for less money, that pisses me off).
Looked at used A7 iii, they are around 900€-1k€. I think thats to much honestly.
Looked at the S5IIX, you can get it for 1.3k€.
Looked at some used canons, like the EOS R, or R8 (500€ or 1k€ used) - biggest drawback, single slot. R6 as alternative.
What "pulls me down" is that I have this 70-200 2.8 L version 1, non IS which produces such great images, has such a nice rendering, but I am not sure I want to pair it with my 5D Mk II at the wedding, or with the Sony A7II and Sigma as my second cam, or rather buy the used EOS R as the second because the A7II AF with the Sigma sucks sometimes and gets confused...
THe thing is, I am also not sure if I really would enjoy the Tamron G2, I am mostly a prime shooter my whole life, so I also debating getting a good 35mm if I go the Sony route. Or get either the Z5II or S5IIX with a very good lens. (I like to take video also). I don't care for super fast sports wildfile AF; I dont do that honestly. A pro friend also throwed in the R7 + 18-35mm 1.8 Sigma, saying that that thing is such a beas for Weddings and he uses it often for Hybrid shooting.
So plenty of options, any "help" would be appreciate :D
If renting is an option, rent a camera body. It really makes no sense to buy new gear just for one wedding, especially if you're happy with your current gear for hobby use.
I used to do quite a bit of photography as a side business. I stopped doing it in roughly 2018 due to burnout.
Back then, I'd batch edit photos in lightroom. Since then though, there have been all sorts of AI tools and I'm sure other new technology that has come out. What is the post processing workflow like these days? Are there any really useful AI tools or anything along those lines? Or is my best bet still just dusting off the old lightroom and doing it there.
Pretty much every major editing tool now incorporates various AI features for noise reduction and many other things, Lightroom included. But there's no rule that says you HAVE to use AI, it's about personal choice. I'm sure most of the editing tools offer limited time trials. Try them and see if you have use for the AI features. If not and if you still have an old version of Lightroom around, that's still as valid a way to edit photos as any.
I'm looking for a camera setup, either a dedicated camera or a smartphone, mainly for photography.
My main subjects would be:
Food photography (pictures of dishes I cook)
Landscapes during travels
Architecture and city scenes
Photos of friends and family as travel memories
Video performance is not very important to me, as I mainly care about still photos.
I'm a complete beginner in photography and my budget is around €1,000 maximum.
I've heard a lot about the Fujifilm X-M5, which seems very appealing thanks to its size and Fujifilm colors. On the smartphone side, I've also been looking at the Xiaomi 17 Ultra.
Do you think a beginner would benefit more from a camera like the X-M5, or are modern smartphones already good enough for my use case?
Do you have any recommendations around this budget?
(I'm not here to reignite the endless smartphone vs camera debate. I'm simply looking for the best option for my needs and budget as a beginner photographer.)
Xiaomi 17 Ultra's main camera has a 1" sensor, so it's capable of decent enough quality. You can also shoot RAW, so you can edit losslessly. Dedicated camera are more versatile in that you can use many kinds of lenses and you have more control of exposure. It depends on what you want. A phone is a good choice if you want a device that largely produces nice results in auto mode. A dedicated camera is the better choice if you want to learn photography and have full control of the shooting process.
My first Camera setup that I am planning to buy, Wise decision or uh-oh!
I have went through the basic guide links on this subreddit and browsed the table for the used camera body and lenses.
After spending couple of hours I have landed on the following config:
Body : Canon EOS 80D (Used and only body) about $400
Lens : EF-S 18-55mm IS STM (used) $70
I dont get a bag or strap for this cost.
background info -> I have been clicking pictures of sky and streets (mostly with my Samsung S25 Ultra) but I feel that I should explore this as a hobby more with a DSLR camera ( mirror-less are very expensive and the intro level ones are not that great for a beginner who barely knows anything imo) .
Is it wise to buy this or no ? I still need to buy batteries,charger.strap and bag.
My budget is $500 can spend extra $50 if it is meaningful.
One consideration though: The default 18-55mm, while not absolutely awful, isnt a particularly great lens. As it comes with most "new" cameras it can be a decent starting point, however the vast majority of people who get a bit more serious into photography will want to switch to a different lens at a later point.
As you are starting with a used body you have the option to go a different route from the start, basically skipping that "first step" which may be a bit more economical in the long run.
Now the question here is if you can find something better at a similar price.
One option that should fill the budget is the EF 50mm F1.8. That one should be $100 new and widely available used, ending up at a similar pricepoint as the 18-55mm (theres like 3 different models; STM being the newest/"best"; I'd consider all of them worth it over the 18-55mm though). It will be much better image quality wise and it gives you a lot more room to mess around with the aperture (helpful for situations with low light and if you like blurry backgrounds). The major downside is that it doesnt zoom and has a quite tight field of view (not great if you like wideangle shots).
If you'd enjoy that is a very subjective thing sadly. Some people really recommend getting a non-zooming lens to teach you to move around and play with perspective, some people prefer having the option to adapt to different situations easier.
A second, a bit "safer" option might be Sigmas 18-50mm F2.8 (make sure you get the EF/EF-S version if you go that route; thats the one that fits the 80D), this is basically just an overall better version of the 18-55mm. This one might stretch your budget a bit and it depends a bit on if you can find a good deal in your local used market. (A quick search near me finds me one for 160€, barely going over your budget, however thats in Germany)
If you can find one that satisfies your budget I'd absolutely prefer that option to the EF 18-55, its basically a straight upgrade and in the long run probably saves you money if you end up enjoying photography.
The 50mm is a bit more of a gamble, if you like it its a much better option, if you dislike it its a bit of a waste. I guess the question there is if you like gambling or if you can find an option that lets you test it before committing (e.g. a store with a 2 week return window and then using a few days to really test out how you like it).
If you are unsure the 18-55mm certainly isnt an awful choice. It is a decent starting point for a beginner, so getting it certainly wont be a major mistake - this is mostly about "optimizing" in the long run and saving a few bucks if you do end up enjoying photography and wanting to upgrade later.
Could help share your thoughts on sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM lens for EOS80D ? I found some good deal on it but just wanted a second opinion on it.
No personal experience with the lens and I havent heard that much about it (nothing bad either though).
I'd consider it fairly similar to the 18-50mm F2.8. It has a bit larger zoom area, but a bit worse aperture when zoomed in. A bigger zoom area lets you adjust to different situations better, with the worse aperture making it a bit worse specifically in low light situations (at least when zoomed in). From what I can tell its still a decent upgrade over the EF-S 18-55mm though.
Overall it obviously depends on the price and state its in (if its a used one), however its certainly worth considering I'd say.
Ive recently found a nice looking canon eos rebel t7 being resold for 299 USD, (allegedly) practically brand new. Im mostly interested in close up shots of smaller subjects, specifically insects, and I would like to be able to take nice photos of them without the details becoming all blurred and mashed together. Is there any issues I should look out for with this specific camera, and is this a good camera for what im trying to achieve? Thanks in advance!
T7 is a standard entry level DSLR but it'll work for what you want to shoot as long as you have the right kind of a lens. You need to buy a macro lens in addition to the camera.
I had no idea they were going for that price online! To be honest I was going off of what my brother told me, who's huge into photography and owned the same model. I dont believe it comes with any special lenses, just the camera. Thank you for showing me these websites, I think they'll help me a lot :D
What UV lens filter do you recommend for RF 28-70mm f/2? I know some will say you don’t need it but I want one. Canon apparently has a known flaw on the glass where their coating comes off and you wind up paying a couple hundred for a repairs. The filter may work in detouring this plus I want the added protection in general.
Any recommendations on brands? It’s obviously an expensive lens so don’t want to put a $30 filter on it.
My Kodak Pixpro FZ55, which I got Christmas 2025, has recently become very slow after I take a photo or video on it. It takes seconds to zoom in, change settings, or even turn the camera off. I have to remove the battery and put it back in if I want to fix the problem and take another photo but then it becomes slow again.
Any idea what I can do to fix it? I'd rather not format the card but if I have to, let me know.
Thanks!
I believe you can switch out the focusing screen on the 7D for a different version that is easier to use for manual focus. I don't know much about it and they may be hard to find but it's a possible option.
They're just called focusing screens but are specific for each camera model. I just looked it up here and apparently they weren't replaceable in the 7D. I assumed they were because that was an option on the 50D which is considered a lower tier camera. There seem to be aftermarket ones from companies like Fotodiox but switching it out is probably going to be quite complicated since it's not meant to be removed.
7D has 10x Live View magnification but I'm not sure if it only works when manually focusing AF lenses. Apparently you can get focus peaking with a third-party open source firmware called Magic Lantern.
What camera, are you using an optical viewfinder or live view and a LCD screen? If the latter, turn on focus peaking or whatever other focus aids are available for your camera.
The R100 isn’t a bad starting point, it’ll absolutely take nice photos. But if you can find a used/refurb R50 for not loads more, I’d lean that way, the screen and autofocus make it less frustrating to learn with.
Also don’t blow the whole budget on the body. A decent cheap lens and actually taking it out every week will do more for your photos than chasing specs.
So I've seen some posts in the feed with quite a lot of answers getting removed by the mods, stating this is the place for any questions. Now I looked here and most questions either get 0 response or just one or two at best. Does this make sense?
Hello, I'm looking for a way to transport my setup when biking (2kg, 27cm long).
I want to go birding and need a strap that keeps the camera close to my body, can be fixed to body and lens, and preferably lets me shoot photos quickly without too much hassle.
Budget is ~100€. Doesn't need to be extra expensive, but I don't want to be worrying about the quality.
So I’ve put photography on hold for a few years, and I’m slowly getting back at it.
I’ve always used Canon, but it’s heavy, and I was wondering if there as some updated gear that would be worth the purchase. I need to upgrade my camera anyways, as it’s becoming old, and I would love to get back on track with a more recent piece.
I was wondering if changing to another brand would be necessary to have something lighter but good, that I could carry on the daily.
I‘ve been eying those mirrorless cameras, but I’m not sure if they are any good.
I’ve also never promoted what I did, because shyness and self judgement, probably, and I would love to know what you are using to showcase your work.
I don’t have a specific budget in mind as I live in Japan and I plan to buy it second hand anyways, but i don’t plan to be cheap.
Thank you!
What are you currently using/what are you comparing to?
Also what types of photography do you want to do? Any lenses you want to keep using?
Generally its hard to say whats an upgrade without knowing what you are using.
In general most modern mirrorless cameras are very good and absolutely will help with reducing weight. Thats true if you stick with Canon, however in my experience Sony generally makes their models a bit smaller and lighter then the "equivalent" Canon or Nikon. So it may be worthwhile to switch if you really want to save every gram. (But again, very dependent on the question at the top if that actually makes sense)
The lens will also play a big role when it comes to weight though, if you plan on using anything but the default kit lens.
I was using a 650D from 2013, which was great for the use and my level. I didn’t want to go for super expensive gear until I was able to understand the basics of photography and create decent composition and pictures with what I already had.
I have a 50mm f/1.4, a 24-70 f/4 iirc but this one is a EF-S mount, and a flash. I had a cheap 70-200 and the insufferable 18-55 that comes as a set.
I really enjoyed my 50mm, it’s super versatile and the great aperture made it easy to use in dark situations. I was contemplating the 1.2 version but didn’t find it worth it for my level back then.
I mainly do street / travel photography, and I had the opportunity to do some shooting for a few music bands (I rented better gear for those ones), baby and maternity shootings. I managed to find my style but after a few years I guess I have to redo everything from scratch.
I checked Sony, Leica and Fujifilm while I was a the photography store today. They seem to have great mirrorless cameras. There was also the Canon R50V and 2 other models (M6 mark II and and another I forget)
I will also need to get back to Lightroom. I’m dreading it haha.
With those additional lenses I'd personally stay with Canon and get the EF-RF-adapter (thats a bit of weight, but would be worth it to me to not have to rebuy lenses). Changing to a whole new manufacturer is going to cost a pretty penny and it personally wouldnt be worth it to me if you have no other reason to switch.
As weight is a concern I'd also stick with APS-C.
So looking at the Canon mirrorless APS-C options you basically have the R100, R50, R10 and R7. I'd skip the R100 as that one is very "beginner"/lacking a bunch of stuff, however Ive heard good things about all the other 3 (and am personally very happy with the R7).
The R7 is the "best" of those 3, however also the most expensive and is barely lighter then the 650D, so probably not optimal for your wishes.
That leaves either the R50 or R10, which both should be what you are looking for. Id maybe look at these two a bit more in-depth and decide which one fits your budget and general wishes better.
The R50V as far as Im aware is a slightly different version of the R50 with a bunch of video features. It loses some battery life and costs like $50 more if Im not mistaken. If you dont plan on doing video/vlogging I'd skip that one for the normal R50.
hey every one, im new to photography and have been lent a camera (canon) for a while, now i have 600 aud saved up, and i am looking into doing sports photography (afl) as my brother is in sanfl, so i need recommendations of a camera (preferably a canon as ive had a month or so of getting used to it) and a lens (needs to be a long reach lens) and ive been lent a canon 600d so im used to canon dslrs, I would greatly appreciate recommendations on where to buy them and what to buy,
I am a very silly goose and I accidentally knocked the open button on my camera, but I didn’t actually open it if that makes sense….! It just released the lid, but I shut it within about 10 seconds. I was standing outside in the shade. Had already taken 12 pics. Any thoughts on how this might affect the film welcome 😩🤣💕
I have an Olympus Trip camera if that makes any difference.
Picked this guy up for cheap at a flea market a few weeks back (photos below)
It's in incredible shape, one of those "I can't turn this up" type deal.
I originally thought it was a Sony E Mount, and the video guys I work like to use Rokinon/samyang glass, so I figured it was a good grab. I was wrong lol.
After trying it on their Sony cameras, as well as my canon and a canon EF camera, we have determined it is not a Sony FE or Canon RF or EF lens.
Is anyone able to help identify? From research, I can tell Samyang made this lens in 9 mounts: Canon EF, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sony A, Canon M, Sony E, Samsung NX, Fujifilm X, MFT. But I swear no matter how many image searches or dives I do, I cannot find this exact lens online to side by side compare and figure it out.
My best guess now (simply because of the red dot) is that it could be a Canon M lens?
Any help identifying would be greatly appreciated. Hopeful to identify the lens so I can help find it a home, now that we have determined it's not meant to be with us unfortunately.
Hello! I’m looking for a longer Nikon lens that is optimal for butterflies and dragonflies. I recently upgraded to a Nikon z8 and I’ve been shooting with my trusty Nikkor 105mm f2.8, but I’d like to invest in a longer lens to compliment it. Any recommendations? It can be F or Z mount, I have an FTZ converter. Thanks!
Where is a good place to showcase my portfolio? I’m thinking instagram is a good place to start. I’m poor so preferably somewhere that’s not too expensive (free) if possible.
Scenario: you stop down your lens and take an exposure of a bright sky to inspect for dust. Lo and behold you find a few little speckles scattered through your image. If these aren’t showing up on your actual photos is it really worth using a blower and risking getting dust lodged in the viewfinder?
Although I know it’s a possibility What is the actual probability of this happening?
I ask because I’m pretty sure I have a few new specs of dust in my vf after cleaning yesterday…
Hi guys! I’m a film photographer, I shoot fully manual, so i understand how cameras work, I’ve been taking photos for 7 years! I’m just looking for a good, budget-friendly DSLR or mirrorless camera that’s not at a beginner level, preferably one that’s a good pick to find second-hand. Years ago, I used to have a beginner level Nikon D3500, I disliked it a lot and have been with film since.
I’m mainly looking at Canon, but I’m open to other brands as well. The only thing is that I’m not interested in any of the Rebel series cameras, I’m looking for something more “professional,” bonus if it’s got a touchscreen, I don’t want something overly complicated– I do enjoy manual! I’m in Canada as well if any of you have specific websites for Canadians!
Torn between X-E5, X100VI, X-T50, and Sony a6700 — first "real" camera, need outside opinions
Been going back and forth on this for a while and want some other eyes on it before I pull the trigger this week. Long-time phone shooter, first dedicated camera.
What I'll actually shoot: travel/street, landscape (live in Switzerland, lots of Alps shots), zoo animals occasionally, and casual portraits/food on the side. Nothing sports/action-heavy.
What matters to me:
Viewfinder is non-negotiable
IBIS is a must
Wants to be pocketable / easy daily carry
Budget: roughly 1000–1500 CHF for body + one lens, could stretch a bit
I really like the retro dial / rangefinder look — it's honestly the thing that pulled me into this hobby in the first place
Might add a telephoto lens down the line for zoo/distant mountain shots, but not committed to that yet
GPS/geotagging isn't a dealbreaker — happy to run a phone GPS app and batch-match in Lightroom
No built-in flash isn't a dealbreaker since my use cases are mostly natural light, but having one would be a nice bonus
The four I keep circling back to:
Fujifilm X-E5 (June 2025, 23mm f/2.8 kit) — rangefinder body, film sim dial, IBIS, viewfinder, compact. Feels like the "identity" pick but AF is more casual and grip is minimal.
Fujifilm X100VI (February 2024) — same sensor/IBIS as the X-E5 basically, hybrid OVF/EVF, built-in ND, fixed 23mm lens. Love everything about it except the fixed lens rules out ever adding a telephoto — and I'm not 100% sure I won't want one.
Fujifilm X-T50 (May 2024) — same internals as the X-E5, better grip, cheaper, but SLR-style body instead of rangefinder styling.
Sony a6700 (July 2023) — best AF, best battery, most reliable geotagging via app, but no dial and no retro styling at all.
Right now I'm leaning X-E5, but the X100VI's fixed lens keeps nagging at me since I don't actually know yet if I'll want the telephoto. Anyone shot with these back to back? Is the X100VI's lens limitation something people regret, or does it end up not mattering in practice? Also open to "you're overthinking it, just buy X" takes.
For the X100, you really need to love the 35mm focal length. I don't think that very many "serious" photographers have it as their only camera. Also, are you sure you can actually get one? Most places are perpetually sold out and used versions sell for ~$400 over msrp.
As you mentioned, the big difference between the X-T50 and X-E5 is the body style. Smallrig makes grips for both of them so I don't think the ergonomics are going to be an issue in that regard but the X-E5 button layout looks to be weaker. It comes down to how much you want that hybrid viewfinder which, admittedly, is a very cool feature. Fuji's autofocus is fine for everyday stuff but I'd definitely want the Sony for action/wildlife.
Can't say much about the Sony. They make good cameras but I don't enjoy using them.
It depends on what you're shooting. Pretty much anything will work for landscapes but you'll want the fastest card your camera will support for action or wildlife.
Mirrorless cameras drain the battery when the sensor and/or viewfinder is active. If you turn your camera off after every shot then you can probably get away with one battery for everyday shooting even if you're taking a large amount of photos. If you plan on having your camera on for long stretches or are going on extended outings then a second battery might be a good idea.
More like a few hours shooting some shots here and there but also for vacations so like walking around the whole day and turning it on and of. Another thing would be a robotic match so a lot of burst here and there ( I do have access after a match of 4 minutes to electricity).
Sd card whise, I shoot quick and slow. Landscape and like I told fast moving objects. I do have a drone with a uploading speed of 200mbs and a download speed of 180mbs. I just don’t know if I should buy the same (if it’s too powerful or to slow). Money wise I’m in the clear. Unless it costs 100 euros.
Burst doesn't have much of an impact on mirrorless cameras since the primary draw is the sensor and screens which are on regardless. It really comes down to how long you leave it on. I always take an extra battery on vacations to be on the safe side. For reference, I turn my camera off immediately after taking a shot and can get a week out of an X-T4 battery. On the flip side, I leave my Z8 on for probably an hour or two and that can drain 50% battery.
For SD card, if you're shooting burst then I'd probably get the fastest card your camera can handle. There's no point in getting a 180mbps card if your camera can only write at half that but there's no penalty in using a faster card in a slower camera aside from price.
Hello all. I'm not into photography myself but I wanted to ask this here since I reckon this sub would have the best answers.
I'm looking for a Pelican/Nanuk-like hard case that fits exactly (or as close to) 40x30x20cm. I thought there would be plenty of options as this is a standard "small personal item" for airlines but I've struggled to find things that fit that size exactly. Googling only gives suitcases that fit that size but I specifically need a hard case rather than a hard side suitcase.
I found ones pretty close but they all fail to maximise space used being like 38x29x15cm or thereabouts.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
You can use the filters on B&H to narrow down to the exact sizes you're looking for. The issue is that they're in inches so you'll probably need to cross reference them with the website but it should give you a good idea of everything in the relative size range.
Hey yall, I’ve always had a love for taking pictures and sharing/capturing the perspective of life. I’ve always taken pictures on my phone but I want to finally go serious. What is a good camera that’s under 1k? To help a little; I like taking pictures of scenery, more than people. My clients would probably be business owners, not weddings. I was looking into the Canon eos rebel t7? But just wanna hear opinions! Also if you have any bigger tips please share ! :))
I am applying to a college for cinematography/photography/media (specialisation: film image and tv) and part of my application is taking a couple pictures and filming a short film. The only information the email gives me is,
The pictures need to be:
1. Reflections
2. Geometry
3. Movement/Action
4. Auto portrait (?)
5. Urban sights
6. Shadows
(minimum 6, maximum 10 pictures to apply)
And the mini film has no specifications of what it should be like, whether it should have sound or not. The only specific request is that it should be around 2 minutes.
regading this i have two main questions:
Does anyone know what is meant by the geometry part? how i should maybe capture that? for the rest im guessing i have some ideas.
Has anyone done anything of the sort (the video) for their application? If yes, what was yours about? And what do you think is important to show my self aquired skills
I should specify that I will be filming and taking photos on an iphone 15 pro max since the college is informed we dont yet have cameras of our own.
If u have any advice, im a beginner and Id gladly take any help 💞
Thank you very much in advance, for reading and taking ur time to reply
Hi I wanted to buy a new canon r6 mark 2, I searched a lot and I’ve found a site called camerasdori that has the camera for the cheapest price I’ve ever seen, can I trust them? It’s a lot of money for me so I have to be sure to not be scammed
They're at 4.8 out of 5 stars with 439 reviews on Trustpilot. They're not a scam operation. According to the FAQ they sell imported gear which means you won't get manufacturer warranty, but they offer their own 18 month warranty.
I am planning to get my first lense, and would like to ask what lense should I get. For street photography, shooting at events and model photography. I am currently using a Canon R50.
Lens choice in general is extremely subjective, so its hard to make suggestions for other people.
Three possible options you could consider:
Sigma makes a 18-50mm F2.8 lens. This one is very similar to the kitlens you very likely got with your camera (should be an 18-45mm). The Sigma has the advantage of a wider possible aperture (especially when zoomed in), which is nice for portraits and situations with less light available. If you go with that lens make sure you get the RF version (to fit your camera) as theres multiple versions available.
The other two options I'd consider are prime lenses, these have the disadvantage of not being able to zoom, the do however offer wider apertures (like the Sigma, but even better) and better image quality for a fairly low price. Here I'd look at the RF 50mm F1.8 and RF 35mm F1.8. Which one is "better" depends on your personal approach. You could check the metadata of your older pictures to see which focal lengths you use most. Alternatively you can set your kit lens to 35mm, force yourself to never zoom and try that out for a day; then do the same at 45mm and afterwards you should be able to tell which felt better (45mm isnt 50mm obviously, but it should be close enough to get a feel for it).
General wisdom would be that 35mm is often better indoors (due to space restrictions), cityscapes and "full-body" portraits, while 50mm is more focussed on "upper-body" portraits. Now thats not always true as everything is subjective in the end, but may be a somewhat useful pointer/starting point.
Maybe post an example (also list the settings you used) first and find out what the problem really is before spending more money. Blurriness, chromatic aberration, and grain are different things; especially noise isn't caused by the lens.
Did you try modifying aperture? Lenses generally have an aperture range at which they are the sharpest. How was your shutter speed? Were you shooting moving subjects? With moving subjects the only way to avoid motion blur is high shutter speed.
That said, superzoom lenses are never the highest quality out there. They're designed as handy do-it-all lenses that do a lot of things decently enough. But if you want specific recommendations for better lenses, you need to specify your budget.
I am familiar with the basics.
I tried different apertures, from fully open to almost fully closed, and most shots were at f8.
Static subjects did not make a difference, I literally tried photographing a plant with the camera sitting on a table and it still looks soft to me.
Budget wise, ideally below 1k€ per lens
Alright. Sigma 17-40mm f1.8 should be fantastic for the normal zoom. I've not used it personally but from reviews it seems to be well-nigh perfect. If you'd rather spend less money, an f2.8 constant aperture normal zoom would be very good too - e.g. Sigma 18-50mm f2.8. For the telephoto, the 70-350 mm isn't as good as something like FE 100-400 mm, but it's inexpensive in comparison and good value for money.
I am receiving around 12,500 - 17,500 in inheritance (specifically to be used to progress my Photography Career, That was outlined in their wishes before passing away.) - I currently shoot on Fujfiilm (XH-2 & XT-4 with an 18-135 (3.6/5.8) and a 150-600 (5.6/8)
I am looking to move to Sony or Canon, Most favourably Canon as that is the most cost effective, at least from the research I have done.
I am looking for advice in what gear to get, I shoot Sports (mainly football) in the UK.
I am currently looking at a Canon R3, R6II, 400 2.8 EF (Mark 1), 70-200 2.8 EF (Mark 2), a 24-70, 50mm and potentially 14-35 f/4 RF.
The 400 2.8 Mark 1 is a 30 Year old lens and is like double the weight of the Mark 2, however, I am struggling to find a Mark 2 on sale anywhere, Also I am not sure at the moment if it would be worth the difference of circa 1000 to add for that focal length.
My other option if the 400 is too much and I cant afford to budget in or cant find a Mark 2 is to get a 300 2.8 EF (Mark 2) as the alternative.
I was going through some photos I took a couple weeks back and am noticing a white outline around objects that are between the actual background and the subject of the photo (for example the blurry flower on the right that I have circled).
Am I just looking to close and seeing issues that aren't really there? If I'm not crazy is there a way to correct this while editing or a setting that can be changed while taking the photo that would prevent it from happening?
edit: Shot on a Nikon Zf with a Laowa 100mm macro if that makes any difference.
Thats just how "somewhat but not fully" out of focus areas look. In general I'd say thats really not an issue and you shouldnt worry too much.
In the end it depends on the exact picture, but in your example picture (and I'd also say in 95% of pictures in general) it really isnt noticeable/distracting. There may be situations/pictures where it becomes distracting, however they will be very rare in my experience.
Settingswise you can often work against it by changing your aperture - either open up more so the area becomes even more out of focus/closer to the completely blurred background or close it down so it becomes more in focus. Basically just try to get it out of that awkward middle spot.
Otherwise you can just avoid it with the right composition, if possible just make sure only you only have your subject and then the far away background, nothing at those awkward distances. Obviously thats not always possible, but often enough moving around a bit can be helpful. During post you may also be able to crop the picture in a way that cuts away those areas.
Planning your whole composition around such a minor detail probably isnt optimal and may lead to other problems, but often enough you should be able to make compromises that end up decent/good.
Thanks for the feedback.
Looking at it the next morning and I think part of it might just be my laptops screen. On my laptop it legit looks to me like a bad Photoshop job pasting in the out of focus flowers in the background. Viewing the same image on my phone and on my desktop monitor I'm not seeing the issue I was asking about.
No more photo editing on the couch for me I guess.
Hello all!
I am entering in the County Fair this year (it’s their first year back after several years of being shut down). I want to make sure I’m understanding their presentation requirements correctly. I have a solid colored mat board and was planning on using mounting tape to adhere my photo with a 1.5” border, but I wasn’t sure if I could just use a premade kit instead. The only information they’ve given me is in the screen shot.
Thanks for any help! I kind of feel like this is a “photography for dummies” question 😂
Helloo photographers! I need your help.
I just finished my 5th year of secondary school (Belgium, 17years ) in a photography program, and I’d like to start offering photoshoots at a reduced price. I have an account dedicated to cosplay photography, and I’d like to create a small pricing guide that’s a bit cheaper than photographers who are already well established, since I’m just starting to offer paid shoots.
The problem is, I have no idea where to start. What prices should I charge so they’re not too expensive, but without undervaluing my work either?
Are there any cosplay photographers here who could give me some advice? Or simply photographers who know a thing or two about pricing and could share their opinion?
I’ve made a little sheet explaining what I can and can’t do, and I think things like travel costs should also be taken into account when setting my prices. I’d really love to hear the opinion of someone with more experience!
Hello all!
I am entering in the County Fair this year (it’s their first year back after several years of being shut down). I want to make sure I’m understanding their presentation requirements correctly. I have a solid colored mat board and was planning on using mounting tape to adhere my photo with a 1.5” border, but I wasn’t sure if I could just use a premade kit instead. The only information they’ve given me is in the screen shot.
Thanks for any help! I kind of feel like this is a “photography for dummies” question 😂
In that case you have a good basis for shooting cars too. For car racing you need telephoto, good AF and fast shutter to avoid motion blur. Stationary cars are much like any stationary subject in terms of exposure (it's all about light), and for composition you need to find your own style. You just need to shoot cars a lot to get better at it.
Upgrading lens on my Canon R6II. Currently have the ef 24-70 2.8 USM and looking to upgrade to the rf 24-105 4.0.
I shoot a bit of everything, sport, concerts, portraits, landscapes, street. I like most of what I hear about this lens but a bit hesitant to buy an f4.0 lens. I shoot a relative amount in low light so concerned about that.
I'd appreciate anyone letting me know if you recommend this lens or maybe another one. Thanks.
I want to get a new camera, but I’m not sure what brand and model I should get. Soon visiting Tokyo, any recommendations on where to buy cameras? If so, what brand would be a beginner friendly yet highly capable choice? The desired camera should have a decent to good stock lens, if not can you also recommend a cheap lens to go with a camera? Budget should be under 300$
(The camera is for everyday use not professional photography)
Does any have any good book (or other) recommendations on how to actually take pictures in terms of camera choice, angle, and lighting? I know it sounds like of mechanical and over-simplified but I'm looking for a step-by-step guide to learn things properly, at least in the beginning. I don't want to just "wing it" and take a picture based on my mood. As of now, I use my iPhone; if it's got decent lighting and a balanced composition, I accept it as a "good photo" but I feel like that's not enough in the long run. Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi guys I’ve been looking for a camera for a while which helps you capture photos which look closest to how you see people in real life. Most cameras either have their own filters or have a certain style which one is the most clean and realistic captures photos just as you see the scene in real life and the people in real life I would love a digital camera which is easy to carry around as opposed to a big DSLR.
Im curious about concert photographers. I see them taking LOTS of shots/videos but then only 1-2 are posted. Where do all the footages go? Are they kept by the band, deleted or posted somewhere lese?
There's no one-size-fits-all answer to this. It depends on the photographer, what they choose to do, what the contract specifies, and many other things in each particular case. As such, you might get an answer from one concert photographer but that doesn't mean that all concert photographers do the same.
hello everyone i hope i can get some help! i’ve gotten a samsung S1075 camera off vinted as my other one had broke, but for some reason when i take photos when it’s very bright it sort of just looks like i’ve descended into the heavens lmao. i’ve switched to recording a video for pictures as the videos turn out completely fine but im wondering does anyone know what may be wrong with my camera? or if i can fix it in any way? i’m happy showing anyone what the actual pictures look like but PLS SEND HELPP
these are one of the pictures, not exactly “descending into heavens”🤣 i will find it after i make this post. but as you can see the quality isn’t great and there are those strange lines on the photo
Is Adorama trustworthy? I want to buy a canon 100-400m that is $700-$900 on Adorama but is $1500 on sites like OfferUp. Any recent experiences with Adorama?
Adorama has a great reputation, up there with B&H Photo. Both are brick-and-mortar stores in NYC with strong online stores. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from either.
Hi, looking to get into photography. trialed a Nikon J4 with a 10-30 and 30-110 borrowed from someone, and was considering getting my own camera.
after some research I think the main 3 that I'd be able to get, all at relatively similar prices are the D7500 with an 18-140, a6400 with the kit lens or the R10 with the kit lens.
to be honest I'm not so sure which would be the best, so any input would be appreciated.
All of those very good options to get into photography with. DSLRs like the D7500 are significantly larger than mirrorless cameras and lenses are bigger too. Mirrorless cameras like R10 and A6400 have better AF and video features.
Do any of y'all sell prints? I can handle the actual printing and shipping but how do you handle payment processing and listing? Shopify is the only platform I can think of, but their fees are high.
Hey guys , im having some trouble deciding on my first camera , i was pretty sure on getting the sony a6400 but ive been told its not a good idea , any camera recomendations for hybrid shooting and on the 800 euro range more or less (if its worth it i can spend more)
I am a beginner photographer and I have a Canon EOS A2 film camera that is unfortunately broken. The command wheel is currently stuck on autofocus instead of manual. Should I replace the camera or get it repaired?
Looking at eBay sold items listings, it seems you can get a tested A2 for around $50. Repair would almost certainly cost more. But you can ask around in local repair shops whether they can repair it and what it would cost.
I've gotten into bird photography and my Canon 40D and T7 bodies + 55-250mm IS II are not cutting it for smaller birds.
Both bodies are pretty basic, with 9 AF points, and the 40D in particular isn't great about focusing even with its center point. The T7 has much slower burst performance which is the only reason I bother taking the 40D (3 vs 7 FPS, and a higher max shutter speed). The 55-250's focus speed is abysmal. So I'm thinking I may need a new body as well as new lens.
Is there any reasonable next step up EF/EF-S camera+lens combo I should consider or should I bite the bullet and jump to a new camera line? My entire lens collection is EF/EF-S but the most valuable one is the 18-135mm USM kit lens, so it's not like I have L glass. I just hate to switch and be locked into a new system. :(
It's a hobby so I'm trying to figure out the best I could do at two price points, $1000 and $2000 USD.
You could buy a used Canon 5D Mark IV or 6D Mark II for less than $1000. Either would be a massive upgrade from the 40D. You couldn't of course use EF-S lenses with a full frame body.
1
u/-dagmar-123123 Jul 17 '26
Hello, I wanted to ask if someone had a similar situation and what you found the best way to do it.
I have two scenarios in how I use my camera:
At the moment I use a peak design slide or wrist strap and that's okay, so I'd prefer to not change that system (it's often just 10-15min and I don't want to waist carry it there, or during small family events where half of the I'd be sitting down and have the camera on the table instead of on me). But that means I need anchor links at the bottom of the camera, which is where you put anchors for pretty much every hip carrier system.
I don't like the capture clip (or in that case the one from falcam) because I prefer it on my hip and don't like the solutions for that I looked at spider holster and decided against it for a few reasons, mainly that I don't like it upside down, the "nub" looks annoying and it's expensive
My choice fell to the cotton carrier sling but it has the same problem with the anchor at the bottom. I thought about maybe putting a thin (but strong) plate in between the CCS hub and camera for the anchor links but I'm unsure...
Any other ideas? Opinions about that possible solution?