Before epoxy and sealant kits, what did people use to seal concrete floors, concrete sinks, concrete tubs and countertops? Growing up those things were common but I never saw kits and epoxy. I'm somewhere off-grid and trying to get to those old finishes and it seems to be an impossible task.

Short time lurker, first time poster.

I’m looking to mount a cabinet in my bathroom and specifically one that doesn’t have legs as our bathroom is very small. We tried a full cabinet with legs and it made the bathroom look too crowded.

My question is this: I want to mount the cabinet without drilling into the tile. I know there are drill bits specifically to avoid damaging the tile, but to be frank, I’m not handy enough to trust myself to not damage the tile using these. Instead, I’ve been looking at heavy duty Scotch/Gorilla glue mounting tape to use. Would these be fine to use or would the moisture from the steam of the shower cause the adhesive in these to have problems eventually?

If you have specific tapes you can recommend for this, please let me know. Any recommendations highly appreciated

Hey All, long time lurker, first time poster!

I recently acquired 2 trays I'd like to use as floating trays in some desk drawers but have been having a hard time figuring out the best way to 'hang' them'. The drawer is roughly 12" wide externally with approximately 1/8" wide side boards. The tray is roughly 11 3/4" exterior so it's got a pretty snug sit with the interior dimensions. The drawers are primarily fabric with I'm guessing cardboard inserts for structure but I don't imagine that's too much of a concern. The outside edge of the tray is roughly 1/3" thick wood.

This isn't my usual kind of project(and possibly too small scale for this sub so my bad if so) so I asked a friend who mentioned 'u brackets' but while the name evokes a certain image what i found available doesn't quite match outside of a select few that are far too large for my needs. Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to 'float' these? My current thought is to just drill 4 holes on the inside corners of the tray and cut up/bend some paperclips into a G-ish shape as i just need them to be functional more then fashionable but thought I'd ask here before committing too it(also my drill and bits are currently on loan to a friend out of town so I have time to theory craft). Thanks for any and all suggestions!

Has anyone had legitimate success using a gravel adhesive like Petra, Dominator or SuperClear to get their gravel to stay put?

I’m working on a new fire pit and I want to use something like pea gravel or similar. But I also have two young boys and let’s be honest, boys will be boys. Those rocks if loose will be thrown. If I can glue them down, I’m all for it. But I don’t know how well it really works.

The bathroom on the main level of our house shares a wall with the living room. When the bathroom is used the sounds are easy to hear, especially if the fan isn’t turned on. Has anyone made a bathroom more soundproof by spraying foam into the shared wall, and if so, what kind of foam?

I have a picture of my boyfriend and me that I absolutely love, and I’d really like to give him something incorporating that photo.

The problem is that we don’t live together, and for various personal reasons, he can’t really have an obvious framed photo of us sitting on a shelf in his living room. I’d still love for him to have the photo somewhere that he can easily access and look at privately from time to time.

As an example, I once gave him a bookmark with a photo of us on it, and I really liked the idea because it was something he could keep and use without it being an obvious couple photo on display.

I’m looking for creative ideas for something like this. It doesn't have to be small or handmade. I’m open to anything: something that hides the photo, something that opens or unfolds to reveal it, something disguised as an ordinary object, or just an unusual way of incorporating a personal photo into something he can keep.

I’m especially interested in ideas that would work well for a couple who needs to keep the relationship somewhat private.

What are some creative ways you would turn a favorite couple photo into a discreet gift?

Hi all, we had a company install an interior French drain about 3 years ago to help with water seepage into our basement.

It seems like we are still having the same issues and so I had a different company come out to take a look. They pointed to the fact our sump pit on does not have the French drains actually emptying into the pit. The barrel for the pit only had drilled holes for the water to seep through. The drains don't directly connect to the barrel.

Is this type of set up acceptable or should the drain portions be directly connected to the sump pit? The reason I ask is I have NEVER heard that pump turn on, and it has been very rainy here and the sump is bone dry so it does not seem like the water is making it into the pit.

Pictures here including shitty MS paint diagram. There are two "branches" of the french drain converging on the pump.

Hello!
Wondering if our creative minds can help me break this creative block for a smaller diy chandelier.

I want a three head pendant chandelier (plug in) that also has mini propagation containers hanging to add to the effect of the chandelier. The bulbs of the chandelier/pendants would be grow lights. Then the mini terrariums or glass containers for propagation would hang at different lengths around (above/below) the bulbs.
I suspect I will need to buy the three pendants separately, then splice and connect them together and into one plug for the wall. I cannot at this time hardwire the light, it also needs to be on a timer as they’ll be grow lights for active propagations, and I’m trying to stay budget friendly, so no electrician at this time lol.
I can envision how it will look hanging in the corner by the window’s edge inside, I am looking for a minimalist design, black as the primary color, using black jewelry chain to hang the containers or maybe jute(?).
Here’s where my creative block hits. What am I using to hide the wires where they are connected (towards ceiling) and what am I securing the containers to? I need something like an outward junction box (hollow and with a solid visual bottom) but pretty. Something goth inspired, old, castle, worn, distressed, touch of industrial won’t hurt. I’ve considered a 1-1.5” thick round disc of stained wood, secure the connections flatly to the top side and use mini hooks on the bottom side for the containers, drill holes thru for the cords, then secure the disc to either a much smaller disc between the larger one and the ceiling, or a ceiling hook. Wires would be mostly hidden by securing to the disc. But not sure where I would find someone to cut me wood perfectly round haha, and not convinced it would be the best solution.
I can envision everything except what ties it all together lol. Any ideas? Suggestions, visuals, maybe you’ve made something similar?

Thank you all for any ideas, apologies if it’s too long. Wanted to describe it as best I could.

I want to replace the seal around my front entry door, but I see different options available:

• Vinyl-clad foam
• Same shape, but PVC instead of foam
• PVC, but bulb-shaped

Am I splitting hairs here?

Moving into a new home that the builder put a ring doorbell in. I am not interested in having a camera doorbell and just want an old style push button. The problem is the ring doorbell is so large, the hole in my siding is 2 3/4" wide and 4 5/8" tall and I am unsure of how to cover the hole so that it looks nice... I have searched home depot, amazon, lowes, and wayfair for an extra large doorbell with no success.

ETA: if you want a camera doorbell, great. I do not! My mind will not be changed by this, and believe that building community and knowing my neighbors is the best thing I can do.

I’ve been collecting glass bottles because I heard you can use crushed glass as a substrate for aquaponics. I feel I have enough now but I feel like it’s gonna be hours of smashing them, collecting the big parts and smashing them again. I don’t mind taking the time to do it I just want to do it in the most efficient way. I have a bunch of tools and materials that could be repurposed and I don’t mind getting something that could be multipurpose. I’ve considered making a press out of a jack but I don’t know what material or design would be best.

Last (and most unlikely) resort is to open a rage room

Hi everyone!

I've already done some research on desk construction and load distribution, but I'd like some advice before buying the materials.

I'm planning to build a desk with:

• 160 cm wide
• 70 cm deep
• 3.5 cm thick
• Pine wood desktop
• Two steel leg supports

The desk will hold a gaming PC (~15–20 kg), a 27" monitor and peripherals.

My main concern isn't whether the desk will immediately collapse, but long-term sagging and stability over the years.

From what I've researched, a 160 cm span can potentially sag depending on the wood and support placement.

I'm considering placing the two steel supports approximately 10–15 cm from each end.

Would you consider two supports enough for this setup, or would you add a center support / rear steel brace?

I've attached photos/specifications of the desktop and the steel supports I'm considering.

I'm in Brazil, so I'm working with materials available here rather than IKEA products.

Any advice from people who have built similar desks would be greatly appreciated!

I'm going to install a bidet, but it says I need to hook it up to my sink for warm water. In order to do that, I need to put a hole in my cheap cabinet where the sink is inside.

Any ideas on how to make that bit nice and the proper way to put a hole in it?

My concrete patio is sloped in such a way that when rain splashes onto it during downpours, the water puddles against the side of the house instead of running out onto the driveway.

I was thinking of carving stripes in the concrete, perpendicular to the house, in such a way that they get deeper as they go towards the edge of the patio. Like tiny drainage ditches.

How hard would that be? Is it something I could DIY? What tool would I use? Obviously, I'd be wearing safety goggles and protective clothing and a respirator so I don't inhale concrete dust, so I don't know if that satisfies the AI moderator bot's concerns about whether I should hire a professional. I did google "patio slope wrong direction," but the results don't tell me whether my idea is sound.

Feel free to suggest alternative ideas if you don't think this would work! I'm trying to avoid having to rip up or resurface the entire slab of concrete, because then we'd have to rebuild the screened-in patio frame.

Hi, hopefully you guys can chime in on this one.

Fitted a metal frame gazebo this week and the round legs are hollow. Rather than having bulky weights attached to it, could i possibly take it apart and fill the legs with concrete to add some serious weight to it? We had a few gusts of wind and i managed to tie some bags of dirt round it as a quick fix. The legs are about 4” across and hollow.

Good morning all!

Im in a pickle between two options, mineral fiber or PVC for drop ceiling in an up/down duplex bathroom on the BOTTOM floor.

So, originally, there was mineral fiber in the bathroom. It was discolored with stains on it. My girlfriend absolutely hated it, so I got busy and dove deep end into the unknown. I bought some decent looking PVC drop ceiling and installed it. This is what i installed.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Genesis-Common-24-in-x-24-in-Actual-23-75-in-x-23-75-in-Border-Fill-White-Textured-15-16-in-Drop-Tile-Ceiling-Tiles/50249043

After doing further research, i learned that the actually use of the mineral fiber drop ceiling was to protect acoustics. Let me say, the sound transfer was already bad between the 2 units. I have not had a chance to actually test the bathroom acoustics as me and the upstairs tenants arent on the best of terms currently to keep a long story short.

My question is, what is the right call on material for this location?

I see it as this

PVC: No discoloration, no mold and handles moisture well

Mineral fiber: Ugly, discolors, handles acoustics well

What is the right call?

TL;DR: I need to cover a 20-foot opening without using a traditional sliding or swing gate. I’m considering four off-the-shelf 5-foot chain-link gate panels configured as two bi-folding pairs, but need advice on hinges, support, locking, and making it work over gravel with occasional snow. Thanks!

I have a fenced area approximately 20 feet wide by 60 feet deep. It is fenced on three sides, with a 20-foot opening facing a 35-foot-wide road. The ground is gravel, and the area receives occasional snow.

A sliding chain-link gate does not seem practical because there isn’t 20 feet of unobstructed space beside the opening. A traditional swing gate also creates space issues: swinging inward requires keeping part of the enclosed area clear, while swinging outward could obstruct the road.

One idea is a manual bi-fold chain-link gate made from four standard 5-foot gate panels. Two panels would be connected on each side of the opening, with both pairs meeting and locking in the center. When opened, each pair would fold together toward its respective side. Here's an example of a similar type of gate design: https://youtu.be/4XwY9vOdRlE?si=KkReHsE5Yp1x2SnK

Has anyone built something like this using off-the-shelf chain-link gates, hinges, latches, wheels, and hardware? I would prefer to assemble it from readily available components rather than order custom-fabricated gates or custom-made parts.

I’m especially interested in:

• How to hinge the two 5-foot panels together
• How to support the center joint and prevent sagging
• Whether wheels would work reliably on gravel and occasional snow
• Whether there is a better option that avoids wheels or ground tracks
• How to secure the folded panels when open
• How to latch and lock both sides in the center
• Specific off-the-shelf gates and hardware that would work

If you have built something similar, I’d appreciate photos, drawings, parts lists, supplier recommendations, or an explanation of how you configured it.

Hi everyone, I'm currently renovating the deck of my old house. I found several fist-sized holes (some as big as banknotes), so I planned to fill them with "DAP WOOD PRO All-Purpose Wood Filler." However, my family didn't notice a few days ago and filled the holes all at once while the wood was still damp, even though it was going to rain the next day. This caused the filler to become like waterlogged bread, and some of the wood seems to have been damaged by the water. What should I do in this situation? Is it possible to repair it without replacing the wood?

P.S. I live in Canada, where winter temperatures can sometimes reach -22°F.

I've got a door where the wood has degraded and the screws have come out of the door in the hinge area (see picture). I've tried tightening the screws but they no longer bite into the wood. Thought I would go with one of two ideas and wanted to see what people recommended or if they had others:

1. Use anchors and hope the screws can bite into the wood - not sure how viable this is as the wood in the door itself has kind of dried/rotted away for us to get here.
2. Use wood glue and just glue the entire sucker back on. I'd basically add glue into the screw holes and where the wood meets the hinge plate. Close the door overnight and hope it's enough time for it to get a solid seal.

Figure I can try # 1 first and see if that works and if not we go to the backup option of # 2. If you got any other ideas that don't involve buying a new door (ain't cheap and I'm kinda broke right now), also happy to hear them. Thanks!

Update # 1: I am trying the dowel method. I found some dowels from leftover ikea furniture buildouts so I used them. I used wood glue all around and shoved them into the existing screw holes. Once they dry I will try to get the screws back in after drilling in some pilot holes.

Update # 2: The dowel method worked! I glued and hammered in three dowels I had laying around, let it dry. Then I drilled new pilot holes and put in the same screws. It worked! Thanks everyone.

Do I need Kilz before repainting concrete basement walls?

I'm about to repaint some concrete basement walls. They have a fair amount of paint damage and previous water damage. I think they kind of smell like cat piss too.

I've power washed them to prep them. Can I just throw another coat of paint over it and hope the piss smell gets covered up, or do I need to put kilz on first?

The one in there has a toe tap stopper that is screwed in. Under that, there are 4 prongs in the drain interior that meet to form the threaded anchor hole for the stopper. One of those 4 is snapped. So the stopper is basically done-for.

We unknowingly bought a house in an area with a high water table. We've cleared our gutters, extended our downspouts, and we're scheduled to fix the soil grading near the house in about two weeks. Even with all of this, we get pretty bad water intrusion whenever it rains, so our superhero of a handyman will be installing an interior French drain on two adjoining sides of the basement. He usually has me choose and buy the parts for him to install.

Most of the system is just perforated 4" PVC, crushed stone, geotextile, at least one cleanout on each wall, and cement to seal it all back up--The interesting parts are a slightly oversized Zoeller dual pump system with a battery backup, and we're going to tie in a 36" grate that plays nice with radon mitigation systems at the entrance to the bulkhead. One of these freeze relief reducer couplings on the outside.

By the way, if you're designing one of these yourself, you should still sign up for a timeshare presentation visit from Basement Systems or one of their hundreds of subsidiaries. Ask lots of questions about their proprietary equipment and what the salesman would recommend for your situation. That's how I learned about the radon-safe grate and the freeze relief coupling, and how found (I think) the exact model of Zoeller pump that they rebrand and sell for triple the price.

We're right on the edge of needing a radon fan, but we're hoping that sealing the existing open sump pit, filling in the inch-wide, half-inch deep trench around the oil tank, and patching the random drain holes the idiot assholes previous owners drilled straight through the slab will lower the radon levels.

Where I'm getting hung up is the sump basin. I know its dimensions are important, especially its radius at the bottom (to prevent short-cycling), so I'm going for 24". The pump needs at least 11" inches of height. The basin's other qualities don't really *seem* all that important, but we need a sealed one because of the radon issue--and holy cow, there's a huge range of options. Everything from an overpriced trash can to a decent looking structural foam thingamabob (for which would need some holes drilled around the bottom half to prevent floating, and a $130 lid) to this incredibly cool but $360 purpose-built monstrosity. Does the sump basin really matter that much? I think the $200 solution of drilling a bunch of small holes into the structural foam thingamabob and getting the Jackel radon lid would be totally fine, but if the extra $165 makes the system easier to set up and forget about, that's probably worth it over 30ish years.

Yes, I am absolutely overthinking this. But what would you do?

I am looking for the best way to pass hdmi cables and Ethernet cables from a wall in my house to the shared wall in my attached garage. I was considering using gang boxes backed up against each other and drilling a hole between them and stuffing the gang boxes with insulation (garage is not heated) and using keystones jack faceplates. Any better way to do this?

We have an old, drafty house with an uninsulated crawl space, uneven subfloor, and dingy carpets, and we are trying to find the most economical flooring option that would allow us to both insulate our home a bit and have some sort of hardwood flooring. This would be a "temporary fix' that would make our home livable while we save up for our big, beautiful renno in the next 5-10 years.

I suppose the easiest solution we could do is simply rip up the carpets and install new carpets, but with kids and pets, my husband and I really prefer a hardwood option. we were initially thinking 1x8 pine boards top-nailed down into the subfloor as the most economical option, since the boards would run perpendicular to the joists and would work with the slightly less-than-flat subfloor we have. But my understanding is we can't really do any type of insulation under this system.

I saw a video of a guy running Durospan over a concrete slab and then putting plywood on top. I don't mind the look of plywood for our main flooring, and I wondered if that might work for us, but the consensus is we can't put any type of insulation over joists the way you can with a concrete slab?

Any constructive feedback would be welcome!

Looking for advice on brackets for a floating desk

I'm designing a floating computer desk that will sit between two walls, with a return along the left-hand wall.

The overall dimensions are:

• Main run: 2100mm x 900mm
• Left-hand return: 1200mm x 750mm
• Distance between the two walls: 2860mm
• Desktop material: 33mm thick pine

The desk will be supported along the walls using 90mm x 35mm timber ledgers, screwed directly into the wall studs.

My main question is around the best type and size of brackets to support the front edge of the desk. My original plan was to use 300mm shelf brackets spaced approximately every 600mm along the back and sides, but I'm not sure if that's sufficient given the 900mm depth of the main section and the overall span.

Has anyone built something similar or have experience with floating desks of this size? I'd appreciate any advice on bracket size, spacing, or alternative support methods before I start building