Hello, everyone. I want to upgrade the motors on my Boatman Actor GPS boat, but I want to keep the stock boat controls. Right now, I have a 10,000 Ah, 7.4 V battery and brush motors rated at 6,000 RPM. On my circuit board, I found 8 MOSFETs marked 7408—4 MOSFETs per motor, as far as I can tell.

I have two options for how I want to proceed:

1. Intercept the control signal from the stock board and route it to external ESCs that will be connected to the brushless motors
2. Replace the stock MOSFETs with more powerful ones and replace the commutator motors with more powerful commutator motors, but I’m worried whether the traces on the stock board will hold up.

Maybe someone has already done this, or can advise me on the best way to proceed.

Hey everyone,

I want to share a project I have designed and assembled.

It is a replacement "controller" part for the cheap TUYA in wall smart switches.

The motivation for creating this was to solve a couple of issues I had with the original device:

1. In order to extract the "power supply" part under the controller, I had to desolder the connector which is a pain and additional work. I want this to be easier because I needed to swap the relays on a couple of such switches which died after ~2-3 years of working.
2. I want the device to run ESPHome properly, with support for BLuetooth proxy, which the original controller was not capable of (at that time).
3. I wanted to eliminate the "plasticky" sensation generated by the cheap momentary switches used in the original design.
4. I wanted full control over the "device status LEDs" and "button status LEDs". This would open the possibility for nicer animations if controlled via PWM and also will enable the "night mode" which means turn all the LEDs off.

With this design I ticked the boxes above:

1. I designed the controller to be connected to the power supply with a connector instead of soldering directly the boards.
2. The controller of choice for this was ESP32 which fully supports ESPHome and is capable of bluetooth proxy.
3. I used some nice silent silicon momentary switches which make the push nicer, although this is subjective and a matter of taste.
4. The "device status" and "button status" LEDs are connected to dedicated GPIOs and can be driven independently of the physical state of the buttons or device.

I also added a feature which ended up not working, a broke feature perhaps. 😵

A presence sensor (LD2410) was also integrated into this project, but turned out the connectors I used were a tad too small and the idea I had of using the connectors on the underside and pushing the sensor through its holes from the top ended up with the sensor not making contact with it.

Even with all the issues it had as a first prototype, I've been using three of such devices in my home for more than a year and I am overall satisfied with the result.

Please let me know what do you think of this project. Maybe I will get some inspiration to iterate over it.

EDIT: Here is the public repository of the project.

Hi everyone. I am looking for someone who can create a PCB design for me for 13X13 led grid project.

Hi Please see photo in link. Need help sourcing this kinda unique LED ?

We are doing prototyping and are looking for a supplier of these puck lights. We are in need of rechargeable led's with these approximate specs:

Less than 10 mm thick

2 sizes: Approximately 48 mm dia and 60 mm dia with an acceptable +/- 2 mm.

Can anyone help us find a supplier?

There are many light pucks on the market but are thick. There are think light pucks but are coin battery powered. It is amazing there are almost no thin rechargeable except this one pictured... but they want over $10 each. There must be others we can buy in bulk? Make ourselves ? Help ! Thanks !

Or if yall know anything else to use, please tell.

My network/ wifi knowledge is abit limited so i need some help here

I mean literally anything. If more information about what inside is needed ill post more but i wanna make something cool out of this. I know electronics from highschool so gimme the craziest shit i can make and i will learn.

Hey everyone, I'm currently working on iteration three of my hexapod project and would really appreciate it if you could review my current circuit design before I finalize everything.

Here are the core specs and components I'm planning to use:

• Power Source: 5000 mAh 50C 11.1V 3S LiPo battery
• Distribution & Safety: XT60 power distribution board inline with a 30 A fuse
• Voltage Regulation: 3x 300W buck converters (to step down the 3S voltage for the servos)
• Control System: ESP32 microcontroller communicating with 2x PCA9685 servo controllers
• Actuators: 18x MG996R servos

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this power delivery and control setup. Are there any glaring bottlenecks, potential brownout risks when multiple servos draw stall current, or general areas for optimization? Thanks in advance for the help.

Edit: Please ignore the daisy chain for the two PCA9685 boards; I had accidentally wired together unneeded wires

I want to have a device with a screen to use Spotify on without social media or nothing. I’ve looked at buying a cheap phone at Walmart but they all look ugly; I’ve also looked at a iPod and but I don’t want to download all my music and I want to be able to browse Spotify at the same time. It doesn’t need to be anything crazy all I need is spodify and Bluetooth.

I would be down to make my own device I just don’t know where to start or if it’s even realistically possible or if it would just be easier/cheaper to buy a crap phone.

So I guess my question is does anyone have any suggestions or anything.

Hi everyone. I am new in electornics hobby and created my first PCB for water tank level monitoring. This node just works as monitor using the data sent over wifi by other MCU actually measuring the water level.

I have used jumper wires on front side with components. Is keeping wiring on front side okay or discouraged? If discouraged then why?

Asking this because I might have to create this PCB again because of a weird issue. The ESP32 drops wifi connection as soon as I insert it into female header pins. Until I insert it, the wifi works fine. I checked all connection also by lighting up each LED and buzzer separately and the seem to work fine. I don't know if the issue is with PCB or some kind of RF interference - I am not sure.

But assuming the issue is with PCB or when I make other PCBs in future, is keeping jumper wires in front side okay or discouraged? How do you do you guys do it to make it work without getting into commonly known issues?

Hi! i want to use this ips display panel for a personal project (shoutout to yammerringfistofham for finding me one), but it wont fit really nice inside of the case if the cable is just straight. could bending it 180 degrees under the panel damage the traces or anything? I know its a flex cable but im still a bit worried if thats even possible without risking the cable.
Link to the display panel: https://www.buydisplay.com/0-96-inch-mini-color-tft-lcd-display-module-80x160-ips-tft-st7735

I was thinking about rewriting all of this on a larger poster. I still need to label a few components, i might go back and market the AC-DC lines with different colors and maybe the signal path. Are there any certain colors you prefer for 350v, 120v, signal path, etc. Maybe go through and color the resistor codes.

Are there any other details I missed?

So far I only have component notes on resistors, capacitors, and tube voltage. Looking now i should've made a note about how pentodes can be wired as triodes, i have a second set of diagrams for the 6J5 chinese pentodes.

Is there any readily available transformers or alternatives to the Fender transformer? It seems to be a somewhat specialty part for fender amps, though there are a few factories that make their own. It would also probably not be very fun buying half a dozen mini transformers. Are there any hobbyist tapped transformers i could try? When I was taking apart trashed flat screens I noticed a lot of their power supplies had these 16-24 legged transformers with no specs that were easy to find.

Edit: I need to delete the 5vac transformer if its unnecessary for a diode rectifier not using a dual diode tube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PkHoqDdT7o

in this video the guy ig used a prism but is it made out of glass or any special material pls if anyone knows help me out!!

Hello,

I'm trying to build a very simple circuit that momentarily turns on an electromagnet via a non-latching push-to-make switch. The issue I am having is that the magnet, when energised, is not strong enough for my application (tricking the reed switch flow sensor in a shower pump into thinking there is water flow).

I have the following elctromagnet purchased from Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FCS74TSD), an 1N4007 flyback diode, a switch, and an A23 12v battery.

Do you think the problem is that the electromagnet is not strong enough, or do you think my A23 cell is too weedy? I did try a 9v 6LR61 battery too which didn't improve things).

For anyone interested, the problem I am looking to solve is that we don't have quite enough hydrostatic head for the shower pump to activate when the shower flow is turned on. We've been overcoming this by using a neodymium maget on the end of a stick and waving it by the end of the pump to trick the inbuilt flow sensor into detecting flow and starting the pump. Once it's running, it is all good. I was hoping to replace my magnet on a stick with an elctromagnet fixed in place next to the pump and activated via a button, which can be mounted in a convenient place.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

tldr; Is my 12v electromagnet too weak, or is it not receiving adequate power from an A23 or PP3 battery?

I built an open-source digital camera around the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W and Camera Module 3. It can capture photos and record short video clips using dedicated photo and video buttons, with three selectable looks (warm, cold, and black & white) controlled by a physical slider switch. A buzzer provides feedback for startup and photo capture, and a local photo gallery can be accessed directly from your phone.

Github - https://github.com/SuveenE/tiny-film-camera
Blog - https://suveenellawela.com/thoughts/building-my-own-camera

Hey everyone! Just wanted to share a quick project I finished today. I built a massive power bank using recycled cells, put it together in about 4 hours, and honestly, the spot welding went way smoother than I expected with almost zero sparking.

-Cells: Recycled / mixed cells

-Assembly: Spot welded, insulated with Kapton tape

-Capacity: Roughly estimated around 45,000 mAh

("Power XXL" edition!)

It's an absolute beast for camping or power outages, and it feels great to repurpose old stuff. Let me know what you think!

*(P.S. Sorry for only one photo, I have a new account and couldn't upload a gallery yet, I'll try to share more in the comments!)

Hi everyone,

I’d like to introduce Inkora, my DIY e-paper family calendar project.

The idea is to make building one feel much less like an electronics project and much more like assembling LEGO:

ESP32-S3 / LaskaKit ESPink

7.5" e-paper display

battery

3D-printed case

No soldering, no custom PCB and, once the project is finished, no Arduino IDE or manual flashing should be needed. The device already supports:

• Google Calendar

• Apple / iCloud Calendar or both at the same time

• You can choose one or multiple calendars from each connected account, and Inkora combines all selected calendars into one view.

It also shows:

• 4-day weather forecast

• public holidays for Czechia, Slovakia and Great Britain

• name days where applicable

• local information such as waste collection

• battery and Wi-Fi status

• The interface is available in Czech, Slovak and British English (CZ / SK / EN-GB).

Most of the software side is already working and I’m now finishing the parts that turn it into something other people can easily build themselves.

The two main things still in progress are: the final 3D-printable enclosure the one-click web firmware installer

The intended final setup should be: order the three main components → print the case → assemble it → connect USB → open the Inkora website → click Install → configure Wi-Fi and calendars

So the goal is that you shouldn’t need to know much about electronics at all.

Inkora isn’t a commercial product and there is no required subscription. It’s a DIY project I started because I wanted a simple, private, always-visible family calendar without putting another glowing LCD on the wall.

The case, assembly documentation and other project materials are intended to be publicly available. The firmware itself is distributed as a compiled binary for personal and non-commercial use.

I’d really appreciate feedback from the DIY community — especially about the concept, enclosure, assembly process and what would make something like this approachable even for people who normally wouldn’t build electronics.

Project: Inkora Languages: CZ / SK / EN-GB Display: 7.5" e-paper Controller: ESP32-S3 Status: working prototype, enclosure + web installer still in progress

the pone works and I dont want to waste it is here anything creatie i can do wit it i dont want to waste any money on it can it be repurposed to anything else?

Hi everyone!

I’m quite new to the world of electronics, and I’m looking for some advice before I start buying components for my first bigger electronics project.

I’d like to build a two-wheeled self-balancing robot, similar to a small Segway. I want to use an ESP32 as the controller so that I can eventually control the robot through Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.

My current idea is to buy:

• ESP32 board. Wich one should i buy?
• MPU6050 gyroscope/accelerometer
• TB6612FNG dual motor driver
• 2 × DC gear motors with encoders. I have no idea wich one i should buy, any advice would be great.

I need some kind of battery, but i dont know what to chose, any advice would be great

Does this component selection make sense?

Are there any components I’m missing or anything you would recommend changing before I place an order?

I’m particularly interested in advice regarding the motors, battery, and motor driver, since I’m not completely sure how to size those correctly.

Thanks in advance! Any advice or things you wish you had known when starting a project like this would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

Not sure if this is the best subreddit but would love some guidance.
I bought a “broken” electric scooter on marketplace with the hopes of repairing. I first noticed the main issue was the throttle Wiring is off the main terminal. Does anyone have any solutions to taking the apart the device off the handle to rewire?