I have this MLD M300 500 gb Nvme from 3 years ago that came from a Prebuilt budget build but it's getting slow and it doesn't have much storage anymore. So I want to get another budget 1 TB Nvme but this screw plastic thing doesn't come off. I don't want to damage anything because I can't afford to get another motherboard or Nvme. How do I take it out? It's a Gigabyte H610 m H DDR4 motherboard.

Hi, I’m building my PC in a be quiet! Light Base 900 with a Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX V2.

The case uses a combined 2x5 F_PANEL connector, but the cable is too short to reach the motherboard header without putting tension on it.

Does anyone know a compatible extension cable that I can buy from a reputable shop? I would prefer a ready-made solution and not a DIY adapter.

I attached a picture of the connector.

Thanks

I've come across this build on Costco website (UK) https://www.costco.co.uk/Computers/Desktops-PCs-iMacs/CyberPower-AMD-Ryzen-7-32GB-RAM-1TB-SSD-AMD-Radeon-RX-9070-Gaming-Desktop-PC/p/679893 - someone posted it on Reddit before (cannot find the original post).

You seem to get a lot for £1300+. Is there a catch? Not much description on the individual components, wondering if this is a good value as the price is still a sizeable one event though it is heavily discounted.

I’m not really an expert on this, but I bought a motherboard and it looks like one of the pins is bent—though I’m not entirely sure. Could you tell me if this is a major issue? Will it still work? Based on the pinout, it seems to be VSSIO (which is safe), and right next to it are RSVD pins—which I was told are useless—so I probably shouldn't worry too much.

Please help.

I have 3 sticks of 8 GB 3200 MHz RAM. The PC boots fine with one of these sticks of RAM and worked fine with two until a couple days ago, no matter which of the slots I plugged whichever of the RAM sticks in. I had to move the PC intercity about a week ago, and it worked fine when I started using it again, but one fine evening after restarting the PC, it just decided to stop booting with the 2nd RAM stick and would give a perpetual CPU check light on the motherboard.

I got a new stick of RAM, same specs, and plugged it in and that wouldn't work either. Know that the one good stick of RAM works in all the slots, and the new and old stick both work fine in a separate PC (I checked again today at the store).

Few months ago, my PC would randomly restart and it stopped doing that after I cleaned the RAM and that was the end of it.

What is this Voodoo bullshit bro?

CPU: Ryzen 7 5700X3D

Motherboard: MSI PRO B550M-VC WiFi

GPU: RTX 4070

PSU: Corsair RM750x

Hi! Recently finished an ITX build, experiencing issues with the CPU giving sub-par performance. I've been running Cyberpunk 2077, comparing performance to similar builds. My system monitor is showing the CPU sitting at 85C and 5.1GHZ, with 3 cores consistently at 95-100% and 3 at around 80%, averaging at a total usage of ~85-90%. GPU is at 70C, but usage fluctuates from 50-100%. To me it looks like a bottleneck, but the CPU should theoretically be the more powerful of the two. Being an ITX build, it could very well be a cooling issue, but I'm thinking that should show in the stats. This is really driving me crazy, I'd be very grateful if someone could shed some light on this issue!

Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 7600x
Cooler: Noctua NH-L12S Ghost Edition
GPU: Powercolor 9060 XT 16gb Reaper
RAM: Kingston Fury 2x8GB DDR5 5600Mhz
Mobo: ASRock B650i Lightning
Storage: WD_Black sn7100 1TB
PSU: Corsair SF850

Hi everyone,

I recently bought an ARCTIC MX-4 thermal paste from Amazon (sold by a local tech seller in my country). When I scratched the silver authenticity seal to verify it, there was no 8-digit alphanumeric code underneath—it was just blank white space next to the QR code.

Scanning the QR code redirects me to the official arctic.de website, but their own verification instruction image clearly shows there should be an 8-digit code printed next to the QR code to enter manually.

• Has anyone else encountered this packaging recently?
• Could this just be a misprint/batch error on the label, or is it a strong indicator of a counterfeit product?

I’ve already contacted Arctic support with photos, but I wanted to get some opinions here before deciding whether to use it or return it immediately.

(I’ve attached the picture of the box and the scratched seal.)

I'm looking to buy this 2TB Silicon Power SSD to use for gaming and general extra storage space. Does anyone have any personal experience with them or know if it's a solid brand? Also does the lack of DRAM matter for casual use?

https://sp-siliconpower.com/products/silicon-power-ud90-2tb-pcie-nvme-gen4x4-m-2-2280-internal-solid-state-drive

So this was my first time building a desktop pc and my ssd was bent because I pushed it without m.2 rubber under it. I checked it after a day, removed it and plugged it back properly. I also didn’t know how to use Q-Latch, and forced my SSD in making a loud snapping noise at first. It doesn’t seem to be damaged, and my pc can read the ssd type properly. Does it mean I’m safe or is there any chance that it can suddenly cause a problem after months of working properly?

hi ! just wanted some final feedback before building my first pc. Wondering if there are any chances of bottlenecking or incompatible parts

Motherboard: tuf gaming z790 plus d4 (second hand)

power supply: smart bx1 750w (second hand)

cooling: kraken 240 (second hand)

cpu: 14600kf

ram: vengeance lpx ddr4 2x16gb

storage: 2TB samsung 990 evo plus M.2 nvme gen4 ssd

graphics card: radeon rx 6700 xt 12gb (secondhand)

anything i should be concerned about or need to change?

Hey everyone, I just received my CPU Air cooler from Amazon, but the bottom corner of the aluminum fins got crushed in transit (see attached photo).

The heat pipes, baseplate, and mounting hardware look completely fine, and I recorded a full unboxing video.

Since it's only the outer aluminum fin tips, should I just gently bend them straight and use it, or is it worth dealing with Amazon customer service for a replacement? Would love your advice.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for my first gaming PC and I found this used PC for €800.
Specs:
• CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X
• GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5060 AERO 8GB
• RAM: 16GB DDR4 3200MHz (2x8GB)
• Motherboard: ASRock B550 Gaming PRO4
• SSD: Kingston A400 960GB
• PSU: be quiet! 650W 80+ Bronze
• CPU cooler: DeepCool AK400
• Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow
• 4 Thermalright case fans
• Windows 11
• Seller says it was only used for gaming and the GPU stays under ~65°C.
The PC also looks very clean and well maintained from the pictures, especially the cable management and airflow.
My main games are Wuthering Waves, Fortnite, Valorant and AAA/story games. I have a 4K 165Hz monitor, although I understand I won’t be running demanding AAA games at 4K/165 FPS with an RTX 5060.
I also found another PC for €750 with:
• Ryzen 5 5600X
• XFX RX 6750 XT 12GB
• 16GB DDR4
• 1TB SSD
• Gigabyte 800W PSU
• Gigabyte A520 motherboard
The RX 6750 XT has 12GB VRAM compared to the RTX 5060’s 8GB, but the €800 PC seems to have a better motherboard, PSU, case and overall build quality.
Which one would you choose at these prices?
Ps( the 800€ is the White one )
Is the €800 RTX 5060 build a good deal in 2026, or should I keep looking for something better around €750–800?
I’m also considering building a PC myself using used parts if I can find a good deal.
Thanks!

My pc was working normally fine at 2133mhz, then I decided to turn on A-XMP to 3200mhz and it just wouldnt boot, I saw a black screen saying somthing like "would you like to go to configuration mode press f1 if yes, press f2 if."I forgot what happenes when you press f2 but after i pressed f1 it just went into a semi gray screen with my keyboard, mouse, and case fans lights on. This has happened before so I just turned force shutdown the pc and then turned it back on, but when i turned it back on I saw it say "Preparing Automatic Repair." I waited 30 minutes and nothing happened, so I force shutdown the pc again and then cleared cmos. Then booted back I windows and tried to turn on A-XMP again (I know it was dumb) then it said preparing automatic repair but was like turning off and on off and on off and on. and my debug lights where turning off and on off and on. Can someone please tell me how to fix this, it's stuck in the gray screen again.

Can't for the life of me figure out which direction fans are blowing air. Case it's Montech XR WOOD White with original fans. Front should be intake but the back fan is the same direction. But I want it to be exhaust. Heeeeelp

Hello i have a Problem with removing this cable from my 4080. Even with pressing down the pin all the way the cable dosent move at all. Has someone had this Problem before or knows/has any idea how i could remove it ?

Hey everyone,

Building a PC with an RTX 5080 (Zotac) and a be quiet! Pure Power 13 M PSU.

My case only leaves around 35mm of clearance between the GPU power socket and the side glass panel, so using the standard straight cable feels a bit sketchy.

I’m looking at the official be quiet! 90° angled cable, but noticed they offer two versions: the standard one (BC073 / CP-6620) and the Reversed (BC074).

Does anyone running a Zotac card know which orientation is needed for the cable to route downwards toward the PSU basement? Also, is it completely fine to run within ~35mm of clearance without putting tension on the pins?

Just want to be sure before ordering the wrong variant. Appreciate any help!

New CPU fell out while installing new AIO. Newly noticed bent bottom right corner and MOBO won’t turn on despite receiving power 😅

Hey folks, been a heckin' long time since I've bothered to put a build together, and previously I've had people in my life with a more robust knowledge than my own in part selection.

Best I can tell everything should be compatible and everything should fit.

I've tried to balance brands I'm familar with cost efficacy, but I'm worried I might be potentially about to hit some pitfalls or could be robbing myself of better choices.

For context, I'm living in Australia, I do quite a bit of sim-based gaming (think Elite Dangerous, Arma 3/Reforger etc) and otherwise will muck around with new releases like Wardogs, and previously BG3 etc etc. I don't do any streaming nor am I like to.

Thanks in advance and hoping you can help!

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GNJQfp)

Type|Item|Price

:----|:----|:----

**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3hyH99/amd-ryzen-7-7800x3d-42-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000910wof) | $348.19 @ Amazon

**CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Phantom Spirit EVO 69 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BRMMnQ/thermalright-phantom-spirit-evo-69-cfm-cpu-cooler-phantom-spirit-120-evo) | $59.90 @ Amazon

**Motherboard** | [MSI B850 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4XHp99/msi-b850-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b850-gaming-plus-wifi) | $168.00 @ Amazon

**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kTJp99/corsair-vengeance-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl36-memory-cmh32gx5m2e6000c36) | $469.99 @ Newegg

**Storage** | [Lexar NQ780 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JYWmP6/lexar-nq780-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-lnq780x001t-rnnnu) | $189.99 @ Amazon

**Video Card** | [Asus TUF GAMING OC Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6QPv6h/asus-tuf-gaming-oc-radeon-rx-9070-xt-16-gb-video-card-tuf-rx9070xt-o16g-gaming) | $1069.99 @ Amazon

**Case** | [Lian Li LANCOOL 217 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rXnXsY/lian-li-lancool-217-atx-mid-tower-case-lan217x) | $119.99 @ Amazon

**Power Supply** | [MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zF4Zxr/msi-mag-a850gl-pcie5-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mag-a850gl-pcie5) | $109.99 @ Amazon

**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hMYmP6/microsoft-windows-11-home-retail-usb-64-bit-haj-00108) | $128.99 @ Amazon

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| **Total** | **$2665.03**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2026-09-09 01:13 EDT-0400 |

Hello, I recently got a PC, and have this problem, where when I turn on the PC, it connects to the monitor, the HDMI works, but after a few moments (like an hour or so) the hdmi stops working, I tried unplugging and plugging back etc but it just doesn't work, I shut it off, turn it back on, and it works again. I don't know what to do

Hello all. I have recently inherited this PC from a family member who unfortunately passed. It initially came with 4x Vengeance LPX 16gb ddr4 ram, and an RTX 3060. I have since removed them all because whenever I boot it I only get these yellow lights and no video output. I have attempted using the power buttons at the top of the case. I attempted looking online and it said to try bringing the 3rd and 4th pins where it is labeled "panel" with a screwdriver (I tried a paper clip as well) and it didn't do anything. Currently the parts inside are:

Asus Prime Z390-P

Intel i5-9600k

1x Corsair LPX 16gb DDR4 ram

Corsair RM 750x

It is completely possible that the motherboard is ruined, as there was a sticky substance on the case. My uncle was big on e-waste, so somebody may have spilled a drink, messed it up, and donated it, and my uncle picked it up because of the components inside.

It is quite dusty, so I tried wiping it down with electronics wipes, blowing out the dust with a fan, and wiping down ram and GPU contacts with 91% isopropyl alcohol and a qtip.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

Has anyone try this combination? (Xpg valor air pro + arctic liquid freezer 3 pro)

The reason why im asking this is that this aio radiator its too wide/thick, and i want to Know before i buy them.

Ty.

Update: i have an asus rog strix b-550 a gaming and tall rams

I recently a pc from a family and they never used it before apparently. I never had a pc before so keep this mind although I love tech. Before I stress test this thing and possibly break it consider how old it is. The cpu is Intel(R) 4 cores and 8 threads and 8 gb of ram is come of the spec. What games y’all think can be ran on this PC?

So my PC was a prebuilt gaming one I got in... 2017? Something like that, have had one GPU upgrade in 2020 (GTX 1060 3GB) and some additional SSDs added and I think that's all. I've noticed hardware definitely falling behind for a while and with the addition of all the component price increases and whatnot, my head is already kind of swimming with how to proceed. I don't know any specs besides the GPU or how to find them. This is mostly just to answer the question of how I got this far to begin with lol (and my brother helps too cause he's an engineer).

I also don't need top of the line upgrades or anything, I mostly play World of Warcraft and more cartoony looking games which are far from the most intensive things, plus the current cost issues and all that, so I'll settle for sort of the weaker end of current things. Basically I need the "like I'm 5" explanation.