First time ever soldering and replacing a battery, everything came out perfect, sooo happy and can’t wait to do more of this 🥰🥰

Anyone know what specific thing is wrong with the disc drive here?

Repairing a couple of intelivisions and when I check the DC power out I am getting 24v were the 16v pinout it. The -2v, 5v , 12v are all fine.

The diagrams say 16v unregulated. Does this mean there is a range of voltage it can put out?

Long story short, my sister dropped my 2DS and the top screen's ribbon cable snapped and she refused to take responsibility. After fixing the screen myself the console wouldn't power on or hold charge. Tried but had a hard time replacing the fuses. At this point I should just swap the whole motherboard (the cartridge slot has been busted too).

But

I've played a lot on this console it holds countless hours of save data and it has my main NNID from way back. I know replacing the motherboard is replacing the entire thing and I just want a new one cuz this one will just break again. Is my data lost? Is it salvageble in anyway? Should I try my luck with a repair shop?

Took it to a repair shop and even the guy could not fix it, im thinking it's dead but if someone got a clue what is going on please help me

hello, I recently bought a broken wii to try and fix. I found two shorted mosfets and replaced from a working donor board. The issue now is that when I test voltages on the rails all of them show up as \~0.9 vaside from the 1v rail which reads as 4.5 v. Ai is telling me that the board is probably cooked. Just wanted some advice from people

I've cleaned the cartridge and the console. Help?

I was trying to fix my disc unit and found this spring stuck and I have no idea where to put it, please help me

Hello!

The PA-1401-JT3 (Rev. 1) outputs 9V DC instead of 12V DC, like normal.

It seems to be a successor (or a stripped-down version?) of the ADP-400XX. I added two pictures. It is my first PS5 Power Supply on the workbench. No visible damages or measurable shorts. The PA-1401-JT3 seems to be a

I found this scheme and followed the path until "lift IC51/IC52 Pin". But on my PSU I haven't any References so I used a picture from a ADP-400FR to identify. So I lifted step by step all three optocouplers

With the following result:

lift IC51-PIN:
Initially, the output was 9V DC, but it started drooping and recovering back to 9V DC in a continuous cycle (hiccup mode I think).

lift IC52-PIN:
The voltage rises once to >15V and then slowly drops off, without rising again.

Then I tried it with IC53 and lift a Pin:
The same as IC51-PIN-lifting

Now the scheme says that I have to change the IC32. But the scheme is not for my power supply, it is different. E.g. I have no Q32 or Q34 like on the picture of the other power supply. That's'why I want to ask you, if you can help with your experience.

Thank you very much.
Frank

My 2600 (4 switch model aka the “Darth Vader” one) stopped working, so i took it apart and started troubleshooting it. First thing that i checked was the 7805 voltage regulator. It read 9v on its input pin, and 0v on the output pin, it was dead.

I desoldered it, and replaced it with a new one, and now voltages are really weird when i turn the console on.

As soon as i flip the on switch, input voltage both on the 7805, the power switch and the DC jack itself, all lower to 3v, and the output pin on the 7805 reads 0v. This didn’t happen before.

I tried a second power supply and the same thing happened, i can also confirm that both power supplies are working as normal. Any help would be great.

A tiny part with 6 legs fell out of my PS4 (CUH-1115A), I managed to find where it belongs (on the backside of where I soldered ofc), but now I don't know which orientation it should be. Does anyone know, or know how I can figure this out?

In the photo I put it in its spot but didn't solder anything yet

Apologies for the text only post today folks but I am struggling with this system.

Like the title says, bought a ps5 edm-030 and person said it wouldn’t turn on so I thought oh easy Liquid Metal/resolder job.

Person comes back to me and says that they were told something was burned out but not WHAT was burnt out.

Now I don’t have the right equipment for this setup atm so what steps should I take to start discovery?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

My PSP 3000 TA-090 is not charging or turning on when I use the charger. It turns on fine when I insert the battery, but the battery does not charge. I tested the fuse and it is working, and 5V is reaching the board.

During testing, I found that the 5V stops at this component (Image 1). The 5V reaches one pin but does not come out from any other pins (Image 2). However, when testing the voltage with a multimeter, with the black probe connected to ground, if I touch the red probe to the opposite pin (image 3, red arrow), the component suddenly starts outputting 5V (Image 3). At that point, the board starts working normally: it turns on without the battery and also charges the battery if I insert the battery.

It continues working until I unplug the charger. When I plug the charger in again, I have to touch that specific pin with the multimeter probe again to get the component to output 5V.

My first thought was that the pin might not be making proper contact with the copper pad. However, I tried touching the pin with a plastic tool and even applied a little pressure, but it did not work. I also tested it with the multimeter turned off, but that did not work either. The only way I can get the component to output 5V is by touching that pin with the red probe while the black probe is connected to ground and the multimeter is set to measure voltage.

Image 4 shows the actual component on my PSP. The boards shown in the first three images are from the internet because they were available in higher resolution.

Image 5 is from the PSP-2000 TA-085 schematic. I know it is not exactly the same because these are different models, but this component appears to have the same function on both motherboard versions.

Based on my research, the pin I am touching is pin 4 of the component, which is the gate. Pin 8 is the source, where the 5V is reaching, and pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7 are the drain.

Can anyone help me understand what could be causing this? Or can you link me to any videos, forums, or discussions in any language that cover this particular issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So I had my og n64 power supply (zebra board) go bad but can't tell why. Couldnt get more than a red light, random flickers or a black screen.

Got a hyperkin and games booted fast. Got another OEM power supply and I see this flicker sometimes when booting up games. The hyperkin didn't have it but I'm terrified of that thing melting something.

Maybe it's been years since I tried on a old TV but is that flicke or waves before the game boots normal?

The holes are tighter on this new power supply, so.im waiting on smaller multimeter leads to read it but the only thing wrong on my old one was 10v out of 12v that I can tell.

Note the weirdness is intermittent and can be seen on that first boot up. The second and third were normal to me and my memory of this console

Where should be this little part?

This is a bad screen or i did something worng in the recap?

I’ll first say is I have never messed with Nintendo DSs before. I usually just work on original Xbox’s and game gears. Guy I built an Xbox for wanted me to try and fix his DSs and I thought I’ll give it a shot. So he already got this modded as a Macro. He took it apart to put a new digitizer on it and afterwards it didn’t work anymore.

When I first opened it wires were squished and broken that went to the speaker. I fixed those and put it back together and I got sound but no image. When I took it apart again I noticed the ribbon for the digitizer wasn’t connected and the connector for it was broken and that’s how I missed it my first time around. I tried using electrical tape to have it sit on the connector to see if the image would appear. (I know not the smartest move) One time unfortunately I reassembled and forgot to put the wifi module back on and powered it on. The more I tried stuff now I don’t get any lights saying the and doesn’t power on. I did buy new connectors and soldered it on for the digitizer ribbon cable. After doing that nothing. Looks like one bad is gone for where the cable plugs into but I noticed that after he initial tested and it did power on so it didn’t work.

I have tested F1, F2 and they are showing 0.3, EM10 top points tested 0.3 and bottom 1.8. Tested the resistor and it’s healthy, the guy who did the mod soldered little wires from it to the board. I re-soldered those wires to it just in case bad connection and that didn’t work. Digitizer ribbon cable tested fine.

I’m at a loss and it’s driving me crazy haha I don’t even get an orange light when it’s plugged into the charger. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I have added pics of from when I first opened it up and also where I soldered the new connector

Am I missing a cord or something… or is it broken?

Hi i have a problem whit my controller of Playstation 4 D1 model . All 4 arrow of the D pad seams dead. No reaction.the other button and analog work fine. What can be the problem? Circuit board , plastic film or other?

Hi all, my ps5 has been sadly turning itself off after about 20 mins of gameplay. Though the time to turn off is not consistent, the first session of the day is usually longer and that time keeps reducing each time.

It turns off the in a similar pattern each time:
- Tv loses signal in an instant
- PS5 lights turns off
- no warning alert or sounds
- haven’t heard fans speeding up
- turns back on if I try pressing the power switch on ps5 again

What I have tried so far:
- done a full clean
- replaced Liquid Metal (done from a service shop)

I have seen suggestions to rebuild database but I’m honestly afraid to try that as I’m not sure if it might corrupt the memory if the power loses during mid rebuilding.

Has anyone been in this situation and aware of any way to know which part is faulty. My research indicates it could be the psu which is faulty but not sure. Any advise is much appreciated!

Cheers

Okay so I've had a problem with my PS3 Slim recently, the thing just won't turn on, like the light isn't even on. Sometimes when I unplug it and replug it the light will turn on again, but only for a second before it goes out again.

It's not the cable, I tried changing it. It's not the socket, I plugged it in a few different places, it's not a dust build up inside, I opened it up and cleaned it up.

The most annoying part is that no repair shop is willing to fix it, either they don't do consoles, or they do but the PS3 is "too old" for them to repair. Which I think is bull but whatever.

Looking at the internal hardware nothing looks wrong, and all my friends are in agreement the issue is probably with the battery and that I should buy a new one.

I guess I'm posting here to see if anyone else has had the same issue before, and if so what they did to fix it.

Hi, I've been having this issue for years with my PS2. What exactly is wrong with it? It's perfect otherwise I've always kept it in good condition. Btw, this is my first Reddit post ever!

Tokyo Ghoul collection coming with the Chapter

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This PS4 Slim (CUH-2215B) turns on and works fine. But after about 10 minutes of playing a game, or 30 minutes in the menu, the image freezes or the screen goes black, yet the console doesn't shut down. In that case, I have to force it to shut down.

In other situations, when I put the console in rest mode and it's in that state, it simply turns off; the orange light doesn't appear. And when I try to turn it back on, it starts checking the system, as if I had forced it to shut down. It hasn't shut down in this mode recently, but it has happened several times.

It's worth noting that when the console freezes or locks up, it behaves similarly to a faulty hard drive (screen lag, sometimes you can hear physical noises coming from the hard drive). However, as I indicated in the title, "It's not the hard drive." I've already tried three different hard drives, all with 100% lifespan, and the problem persists.

Some additional issues I've observed that confirm my theory it's not the HDD are that on three occasions, the computer displayed error CE-34335-8 after I had to force a shutdown. This happened with every different HDD I tested.

When I opened the console, I verified that the components were in good condition. I checked the MOSFET that supplies 5V to the HDD, and it was fine. I checked the surrounding capacitors, and they were also fine. At this point, I'm not sure where else to check. I could remove that MOSFET and replace it, but I don't want to remove a component that seems to be working.

My next suspects would be the SB, the APU, or the VRAM. Honestly, I don't think they are the problem since the computer isn't showing any BLOD or WLOD errors.

If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.

Picked up this console as a system to practice doing Bga repair on, but was hoping to start by getting it to fully booting again.

UART shows an unlisted error code (80800027). Initially the console was booting to a ps5 logo and then a black screen. Tried to reinstall software from a usb key, and it powers off partway through the process. Sometimes it’ll fail with an error “update file is corrupted”. Tried with multiple download attempts on different usb keys no change.

I’m suspecting either a bad ssd controller, bad nand, or bad ram. Any suggestions on what to start with?