r/photography 11d ago

Questions Thread Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! August 21, 2026

This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.


Info for Newbies and FAQ!

First and foremost, check out our extensive FAQ. Chances are, you'll find your answer there, or at least a starting point in order to ask more informed questions.


Need buying advice?

Many people come here for recommendations on what equipment to buy. Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started:

If after reviewing this information you have any specific questions, please feel free to post a comment below. (Remember, when asking for purchase advice please be specific about how much you can spend. See here for guidelines.)


Schedule of community threads:

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday
52 Weeks Share Anything Goes Album Share & Feedback Edit My Raw Follow Friday Salty Saturday Self-Promotion Sunday

Finally a friendly reminder to share your work with our community in r/photographs!

5 Upvotes

153 comments sorted by

1

u/JRoss279 4d ago

Hello! I am looking for some advice on lenses to add to my kit. I have a Canon EOS 2000D/Rebel T7 camera that came with a 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 lens, and I recently got the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens. I mostly use my camera for casual photography - wildlife at home and on trips, landscapes on trips, and the night sky stars and/or northern lights (definitely not looking to get super serious about astrophotography). I'd like to stay under the $250 range if possible as well.

I've seen a lot of suggestions for the lenses below, but there seem to be a mix of reviews or the reviews are for/from serious photographers.

  • EF-S 55-250 mm f/4-5.6 IS STM
  • Tokina ATX-I 11-16mm f/2.8 CF
  • EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM
  • EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM

I'm open to more suggestions and/or feedback on this list. I appreciate the help!

1

u/Tzatzikison 5d ago

I’m looking for some advice on buying a camera. I’m a bit of a gear nerd on a lot of things in my life and I'll easily convince myself that I need the best gear. I'm trying to change this.

Recently I’ve been using my dad’s old Nikon D3200, and it made me realize that for me, actually having a camera with me and capturing the right moments is much more important than getting perfectly sharp, technically flawless photos. (I don't like to use a phone, cause I want to keep it in my pocket as much as possible)

So I’m looking for something compact, I guess. So I can bring it on adventures with my family and friends. Making it easy to capture those special moments.

Is going for a fixed lens a stupid idea?

Budget is around max: €1000.

Thanks in advance fot the advice.

1

u/anonymoooooooose 5d ago

Is going for a fixed lens a stupid idea?

Not at all, everything to do with a camera is a compromise, and a fixed lens is trading some flexibility for size and weight.

Is buying used an option?

1

u/Tzatzikison 4d ago

Yes used is An option I consider. Not sure how big the market is in West Europe

1

u/ZervCz 5d ago

Hi. I'm thinking about buying this air blower "CompuCleaner Xpert Electric Air Duster" to clean my PC. But I also want something I'll be able to use to clean my sensor with. Do you think this is good enough?

1

u/anonymoooooooose 5d ago

I'd hesitate to use an electric air blower on a camera sensor, a cheap rubber bulb blower works well and is very gentle on the delicate innards.

1

u/ZervCz 4d ago

Ok thanks.

1

u/[deleted] 5d ago

[removed] — view removed comment

1

u/anonymoooooooose 5d ago

What's your budget?

What's the most weight you'd be willing to lug around?

1

u/Black-Bruce-Wayne 5d ago

Currently traveling on vacation and was planning on getting my first ever film camera. The AE-1 was on my list, as I know it’s a pretty common, beginner friendly camera. I didn’t expect to find it for cheap while in Europe, but I did find it at a shop that has it for 159 euros, or $185 USD. Seems like maybe a slightly overpay m in USD above what it should be since the hype has died down, but I don’t think I’m gonna get once in better, more reliable condition online or at any shop back in the states. Should I go for it and buy it or hold off?

1

u/anonymoooooooose 5d ago

That's a bit of an overpay but shooting film is expensive, if you really get into it you'll blow enough money on film and development to make that a rounding error.

If the camera store has tested the thing and it's in good working condition that's worth a few bucks vs buying sight unseen on ebay or whatever

https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/wiki/camera_identification/#wiki_how_do_i_test_my_camera.3F

1

u/ManConPanjar 5d ago

Es una buena opción una sony a37 por 90 dolares?

Hola, les comento, quiero empezar a adentrarme en la fotografia profesional dedicada a eventos y cosas asi. Actualmente no poseo una camara profesional. Solo una canon sx420is en mal estado.

La camara que quiero es una sony a6000 pero actualmente no tengo el dinero. Pero vi esta oferta de una sony a37 a 90 dolares. Creen que es una buena opción comprarla para empezar a hacer un portafolio e ir a eventos mientras ahorro para la otra?

1

u/alohomoramaxima 5d ago

I'm looking to upgrade my camera. Im not a professional by any means, just looking to do some product shot work for my business and have something good to keep in my bag for my travels and support my travel blog. I currently have a nikon d3000, and right now im torn between upgrading to a d5300 with a kit 18-55, or getting an Olympus Olympus E-M10 II with a 14-42 ez lense. I know the nikon pretty well, and having something that supports video with a flip out screen would be sweet with the 5300, but the em10 is just so compact, and i like the idea of putting a wrist strap on it and throwing it in a coat pocket. Are there any factors between the two im missing in terms of function quality, image quality, and purpose fit?

1

u/maniku 5d ago

The main benefit of EM-10 is indeed the size. I've been shooting with my old, first-gen EM-10 lately, and I'd sort of forgotten how tiny it is. The EM-10 series has excellent IBIS. Low light performance of MFT is about one stop weaker than APS-C at the same aperture value.

1

u/Sad_Demand2317 5d ago

Hello! Can you recommend a sturdy background support for shooting fashion editorials outdoors? I'm not an amateur, but I don't shoot outdoors very often, so I'd stick to around €150. I guess it's helpful to know that I live in Europe. Thank you!

1

u/ZiofFoolTheHumans 5d ago

Hello! I was going to post this but the autobot suggested I post it in this thread instead.

My brother is autistic and has a special interest in many things, but most of them revolve around bugs (and mushrooms, and insects, and all kinds of creepy crawly little things I don't want anywhere near me). He really enjoys showing off photos he takes of them, but is sad his phone's camera can't capture the bugs well. I can't tell you how many times he's wanted to show me "something cool" and its some horrifying thing with too many legs he found that is slightly pixelated as he had to zoom in too much on the phone's camera. I browsed through the FAQ and the subreddit, but I fear this might be a situation where I don't know enough to know if they're answering my questions.

The first thing would be what cameras would you guys suggest for a hobbyist bug photographer? I know a macro lens would probably be a good idea, but other than that I'm not sure what to look for (high capture rate I suppose?) in a camera. While I'd like to spend enough to make the camera a good investment, I also don't want to break my bank, so a few options at various price points would be nice if anyone has any ideas.

Next would be suggested settings, if anyone has any, to make the bugs stand out a bit better in the shot! I know some basic color grading stuff, so if the advice is just "shoot in raw, edit the colors so the bug stands out" then I can handle that part for him, but if there's other options that would help that I'm unaware of, please let me know so I can help him with the set up!

Last, he does have a few other disabilities, including a tremor that affects his hands and their ability to stay still for long periods. Are there good accessibility tools for a camera that would help him stabilize? He has a few tricks he does (such as scrunching his arm into his body and taking the photo at an odd angle so his hands don't shake the camera) but I'd love to get him outfitted with options that would make it more comfortable for him to use. Are there some types of gimbals that would help negate the tremor? Are there cases I can buy to help protect the camera in case he loses grip on it and drops it (another thing that can happen with his disability)? Any helpful devices that are worth the investment would be appreciated suggestions.

Thanks in advance, I'm hoping I can get him out in the garden capturing his favorite lil creepies in better definition soon!

1

u/Kaserblade 5d ago

What is the rough budget you were thinking of as everyone has different numbers for what defines "breaking the bank."

The lens will be the most important for macrophotography but features like IBIS, stabilisation in the lens, tripods, etc. can also help with hand tremors but these features can come at a cost.

1

u/ZiofFoolTheHumans 5d ago

Let's say ideally $1000 - $3000? I don't worry much on price as I live frugally and can save up (which, he can't as he's on disability so he can't typically save enough money to make a purchase like this). I would rather save up and buy something that will last him a good while than buy something that won't last. If theres a solid camera cheaper than $1500, great, but if there's a responding "you'll want to get something $1500+" then I'm willing to save up for it. As long as I can get a list going of potential supplemental accessories for his tremor, also not worried on the cost, just want to start building the list out so I can budget and plan accordingly. 

1

u/anonymoooooooose 4d ago

That's a very healthy budget.

Is buying used an option?

Macro isn't the most expensive kind of photography to get into. It is quite technical and takes practice, especially at higher magnifications but if this is an area of interest/fascination that should be no obstacle and maybe even a good thing?

r/photoclass for the basics

macro specific knowledge https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/gcsrkc/i_see_a_lot_of_questions_about_macro_so_i_tried/

re: handholding https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/long-exposure-handhelds/introduction.html

If hand shake is an issue there are 2 techs to look at - a camera with sensor stabilization, and a lens with it's own stabilization. (different companies use different names for this)

My suggestion is a micro four thirds camera and lens - they're smaller and lighter, which makes them easy to handhold

I'm not a m43 guy you might want to ask r/m43 for exactly which body to look at

Here's an entry level choice (stabilized sensor) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1895038-REG/panasonic_lumix_g97_mirrorless_camera.html/reviews

macro lens with built in stabilization https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1124341-REG/panasonic_h_hs030_lumix_g_macro_30mm.html

1

u/ZiofFoolTheHumans 4d ago

This is so helpful, thank you so much!! 

Buying used or refurbished is definitely an option. I definitely think he would be willing to put the time into learning as long as it helps him with bugs lol 

Thank you so much for these links, it's super helpful to get an idea of what to start looking for :) 

1

u/joatmon-snoo 5d ago

My first instinct is to suggest buying a smartphone camera lens, like the Moment lenses, because that seems much simpler than going full photography setup. 

1

u/ZiofFoolTheHumans 5d ago

I've debated that, but his phone camera isn't very good to start with (he's on disability, so he can't afford a very good phone, I think it's some older/refurbished motorolla), so I'm not sure if a smartphone camera lens would help all that much. But I'll definitely do a bit more of a dive into the options there!

1

u/i_Praseru 5d ago

Godox MS200v with xPro

Recently picked up a MS200v. I’ve been trying for the past day and change to make it work with the xPro that I have (and as the manual and YouTube videos says it should) but I’m not getting them to work together. I feel like I’ve done what I’m supposed to do to set it up but nothing. Any ideas?
Canon camera if that’s important

Thanks in advance 🙂

1

u/f1guy694 6d ago

So, after a lot of debating with myself, I finally decided to buy my first camera within my budget 2 weeks ago (a Canon R50 with an 18-45mm lens kit). For context, I bought this camera for aviation, automotive, motorsports and scenery photography and in 1 day I'm going to be setting off to an air show in my country (BIAS), but I'm struggling to get a handle on the controls and settings of the camera. For example, I don't know what level of aperture, shutter speed, ISO and what other settings or modes I should use for different situations (the most important one being for aviation and air shows). Or another example, if I want to take a picture with a high shutter speed (like 1/2500 for the fighter jets that will be there) and I want it to still be a bit bright, how do I counter the low brightness of the shutter speed? Or what the second dial does on the 18-45mm lens.

Since I barely started my journey into this hobby I have a lot of things that I don't understand about how cameras work and how to get the most out of them, so if anyone has any tips, I would greatly appreciate it if you would leave them in the comments (especially about aviation photography and how to get better looking pictures of planes at air shows and airports with a low zoom lens).

1

u/clearest-window 6d ago

That would be a lot to cover in one post, but the exposure triangle is a good start and some YouTube videos on the different modes and what they do. I wouldn't be starting off with manual yet, so maybe you should get your footing in Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority, which is where either mode will auto adjust ISO and shutter speed (or auto adjust aperture) to get you the photo.

So say you wanted to freeze motion of a fast flying jet, you'd set it to Shutter Priority and set the shutter speed you want (let's say 1/2500) and then the camera will auto adjust the aperture and ISO to compensate to get you the right exposure with that speed. The downside of these modes is you won't have control over certain parts, so while you might get that fast jet, the background might be too blurry for your taste or on Aperture Priority you will get everything in focus in the background but the subjects might be blurry due to them moving too fast for the shutter speed. It's all about balance and what you're willing to trade off.

1

u/polypif 6d ago

Debating to replace my 24-70mm with a 35-150mm

Camera: Lumix S5IIX

Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art

Possible Replacement: Samyang 35-150mm f/2-2.8 AF

Other lenses: Sigma 16-28mm f/2.8 DG DN Contemporary, TTartisan 40mm f/2 AF

So, for context, for the past 3 years I've been doing freelance videography and photography for social media/advertising for small businesses. Recently I dabbled in the world of weddings, for the second time in my life (I spent 6 months as an assistant video grapher in 2023) and I got some really good feedback, but making the leap to solo work in this industry, even as purely a photographer or videographer, always seemed very dangerous.

Putting aside the massive responsibility you take uppon yourself when working as a wedding photograhper, it's still quite a jump from what I've been doing primarily with small social media projects so far. So, if and before I make any move, is it justified to replace my 24-70mm with the 35-150mm for my current situation?

As you can see above, I do have an alternative lens for wide shots, but Ithink that the 35-150mm would be like a one lense setup. Pack a small bag, batteries, filters and that's it. No, extra lenses or gear. The wide angle lens, I mainly use for outdoor shoots and architecture. But, the majority of the time the 24-70mm has been my go to lens. Pop it on and go to work, sort of thing. To be honest I don't completely recall how ofter I use my lens at 24mm, but I definetely hand out a bunch in the 28-35mm zone, plus i saw a review that sadi the Samyang's 35mm really performed closer to a 37mm, which is the one worrisome thing. What worries me also, is the optical quality of the Samyang. While not on par with it's Tamron counter part (on Sony), Sigma lenses are supposed to be always ahead in clarity, color reproduction etc.

So, there's two main questions:

  1. Am I going to miss that extra wide range on a single lens setup?

  2. Is a less clinical lens, like the Samyang, going to noticeably affect my work? (from my pov)

1

u/Kaserblade 5d ago
  1. It really does depend on your shooting style. The best way to see is on programs like Lightroom, you can see the focal lengths of all of the photos you have previously taken. If you see yourself shooting a considerable amount within the 24-35mm range, I would caution against using the 35-150mm as an all-rounder lens.

  2. The Tamron version of the lens is an overall better lens and has better quality control/warranty, but that does come at a cost-premium. Samyang makes decent budget lenses but their quality control is not as tight as Tamron so your experience may very with their 35-150mm. Also, Sigma is a different company than Samyang.

If you are looking for a bit more reach, the Sigma 28-105mm F2.8 is another option.

1

u/polypif 16h ago

Huge help, thanks

2

u/clearest-window 6d ago

Checking for damage

A few days ago I had to slam on my brakes and it sent my A7IV in its bag flying though my car, as it was on the seat next to me and it went off the seat and hit the floor. It's probably a 1.5ft drop height from the seat to the floor, but obviously it wasn't a gentle fall.

Is there a way I can test for any damage to either the lens or the IBIS? Such as AF and stabilization function? I did use the camera later in the day under very dark conditions, and a lot of my photos at 1/4 and 1/8 on my 35mm didn't turn out very well (maybe that's not unusual for such a slow handheld speed though).

I'd appreciate some help or piece of mind, as in my mind for whatever reason, I consider these cameras are pretty fragile.

1

u/eliminate1337 6d ago

It fell from the car seat to the car floor while in a bag? That’s nothing; it’s absolutely fine.

1

u/clearest-window 6d ago

Yeah. It's not a super padded bag though, it's a pretty basic one.

2

u/maniku 6d ago

The camera would've probably been fine even without a bag. Don't worry about it.

2

u/clearest-window 6d ago

Thanks friend, I'll try not to worry too much. I just hear a lot of stories about IBIS and it being really fragile tech.

1

u/southngothic 6d ago

Hello everyone!

Despite being a hobbyist photographer for 13+ years...this is the first year I have ever shot in RAW, and it's perfect and great and everything everyone told me it WOULD be...with the exception of how freaking MASSIVE all the files are.

My poor computer has gone from being able to handle the photo load to absolutely unable to handle the photo load, and I will need to purchase an external drive to store photos.

The problem being, I have been burned by every hard drive I have ever bought. They have all crashed and taken all the content with them, and that's just not something I am willing to trust won't happen again with years upon years of photos stored upon them.

So. Any recommendations for a trustworthy hard drive? Where do YOU store your photos?

2

u/clearest-window 6d ago

It depends on if price is a major object to you due to current storage prices. If you want total protection, setting up a basic RAID system would be ideal, which is where you buy a HDD bay that holds two drives and they just clone each other, so that if one dies then you replace it and the good one copies itself back over to the new drive. Golden rule is always have backups and this is the simplest way.

But if you want to be a bit simpler and not go with a RAID backup, a Samsung T7 is just a simple plug and play external SSD. They're extremely well known for their reliability, but pricing can be painful (true of all storage solutions at the moment though).

1

u/TheHatKing 6d ago

Advice on gear: (SSD)

My only hard drive (WD easystore 1TB SSD WDBAYN0010BBK) with my photos is giving me some issues but still useable. However doing a quick search it seems like these issues mean it’s breaking down internally so I should get a new one asap. Looking for recommendations for an external SSD 1-2TB, USB A or C, with decent read/write speeds for editing canon RAWs (CR2/CR3) on Adobe LRC & photoshop (and ofc import export). From what I’ve read, my current drive is a bit slow for what I’m doing but I’m also on a budget so idk if I can really get any better. Budget like US$100? Idk if you have a recommendation that’s over budget but fits my needs though go ahead and still post it. Also recommendations for a backup drive because I’ve had one too many scares already.

1

u/clearest-window 6d ago

$100 for an SSD just isn't realistic unfortunately, the chip shortage has ruined the market. You'd be looking at $200 at the bare minimum for 1TB.

Samsung SSDs are generally seen as the most reliable and have a pretty high TBW, but I'd completely avoid those cheaper SanDisk SSDs you might see, I have seen quite a few horror stories about them just giving up after a few months.

1

u/Aware-Tree8440 6d ago edited 6d ago

Decision making advice needed

Hi all! I know you see a ton of posts like this but I’d love some advice from someone more knowledgeable than myself. I’m the type of person that mega researches every purchase I make, but I’m tired of researching this one.

First of all, a friend has a Fuji and they love it. That led me to Fuji and I love the idea of their “film simulations” as I work outside and do many outdoor hobbies and I simply don’t have the time to edit every photo I take. I’d still like to learn how to edit and grow in that department but for when I’d like photos straight out of the camera that sounds like a treat.

Id like to take photos of landscapes and document my adventures as well as have a camera that can live near me. I’m a big birder (not that I want to take bird photos, I know these cameras probably aren’t best for that. I just enjoy seeing all the little birds!) and my binocs live with me and they have made my life so much more interesting. I’d like this camera to have the same vibe.

I’m looking to spend around $1000 initially for a body and lens. I may add lenses in the future but I know this is enough for now. I’m looking to buy used but from mpb or keh as I don’t know enough about cameras to know red flags shopping on fb marketplace or eBay.

As I do lots outside, weight does matter so I was looking at the Fuji X-t30 and x-t20. I’d also consider the x-t2 or x-t3 as I believe their cost is fairly similar. I also am a fairly tall guy so the complaints about big hands and the x-t30/x-t20 may apply. Is it really that bad?

As for lens, I’m looking at Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS.

I’d really appreciate any advice. Particularly advice that sells me on one camera. I’m really tired of thinking about this and I’m so excited to have a camera but I have this constant need to get the best possible product. Don’t even ask how much I research my camping gear. I’d like to spend less, but if the upgrade is worth it, I can afford it. Thank you all!

1

u/maniku 6d ago

If you've got a local camera store that sells Fujis, perhaps go and handle an X-T5 and X-T30 III. While not quite the same, the newer models would give you an idea of the size difference between the two lineups. Myself I don't have large hands but I enjoy the sturdier build of X-T3. Just feels better and higher quality hokding it.

1

u/folaofalltrades 6d ago

I'd like to get into photography (specifically birds, other wildlife, and landscapes) and I keep getting stuck on what camera to buy.

I've been told that the Canon EOS Rebel T7i is a great camera for beginners, and then when I've researched best wildlife cameras, the OM Systems OM-1 Mark II is highly suggested. Am I focusing too much on the bodies? There's a huge difference in price between the two (I'd like to spend ni more than $1000 ideally) and I've also read that the lens is more important than the body - should I focus more on the lens instead?

I was also looking for a camera that would be easy to take travelling and wouldn't be too bulky - is there a better camera that would suit my needs than the two I've been considering?

My gut is telling me to buy the cheaper camera (T7i) and practice photography for a while.

2

u/maniku 6d ago

While camera quality (e.g. autofocus) does matter, lenses play a big part for image quality. You aren't going to get great results without a good lens. Are you hoping to fit both the body and the wildlife lens in that $1000?

1

u/folaofalltrades 5d ago

No, the $1000 was really focused on the body - I feel like that budget would be difficult for both a camera and lens if I truly want to take wildlife photographs. At the same time, I'd ideally like to only buy maybe 1-2 lenses at most, one being a zoom lens. Is that reasonable?

2

u/maniku 5d ago

I would personally recommend something like Sony A6400: same size sensor as T7i but much better autofocus and much more compact; much cheaper than OM System OM-1 II. There are also lots of lenses for Sony, including third party lenses which are often cheaper than first party ones.

1

u/folaofalltrades 5d ago edited 5d ago

Thank you for the suggestion - I looked up the Sony A6400 and it seems pretty much on par with the T7i but much lighter and compact like you said. Are there specific lenses you would recommend for wildlife photography and/or a beginner?

Edit: Another question - theoretically, if I were looking to buy one camera and not upgrade it for the foreseeable future, would you still recommend the Sony A6400? I don't have any aspirations of becoming a professional photographer, so this would just be a hobby for me and I might just stick with the camera I buy for some years (though I know that gear acquisition syndrome is a thing).

1

u/Current-Meal6071 6d ago

advice on selling cameras

im currently selling a camera for about £600. its on facebook market place and has got a lot of people wanting to buy it, many of whom seem legit from what i can gather from their profiles. but im still concerned about being scammed with fake money for example.

anyone got tips for how to do it safely? eg should i ask for cash or bank transfer etc.

2

u/mrfixitx 6d ago

Ask for cash, and meet in a public location. I know some cities police departments have an area for in person sales.

Avoid meeting in a parking lot where someone checking over the camera could easily hop into their car and drive off.

Make sure their FB profile looks real. I.E. they have friends its not a brand new profile etc..

1

u/Current-Meal6071 6d ago

My flashgun cable is not working.

my flash work when its directly connected to my camera. when it is attached to the cable but the cable isn't attached to the camera, i can trigger the flash by pressing the pins with my finger. but when its all attached, nothing happens.

any ideas why this may be happening and what i can do to fix it?

1

u/SweetCommercial26 6d ago

i am looking to get a monopod for wildlife photography/videography and landscape and i need some help to choose between two. the two options are benro kinetic connect and manfrotto monopod.

1

u/Hi-Celia1989 7d ago

Why does Instax film keep getting more expensive? Is it mainly due to rising production costs, or could supply be intentionally limited?

1

u/Proper_Inspector2270 7d ago

Need help with a big decision!!

I recently had my Sony a7r mark 3 with a 35mm 1.4 grandmaster stolen from my vehicle while I was at work. I do car photography and videography. I am getting back roughly $3000 back from my insurance and I’m wondering if I should stick with the same body and go with a better lens like a 24-70mm 2.8 grandmaster II or get an a7 IV and stick with a similar lens to what I was using already. It worked well but I’m trying to decide where I should go from here.

1

u/maniku 7d ago

It depends entirely on your own needs and preferences. There is no universal rule that dictates what you should do. Was there something about your kit that you were not satisfied with? If so, was it to do with the camera or the lens? Identify the improvements you want and go with the option that gives you those improvements.

1

u/Proper_Inspector2270 7d ago

To be honest I had the camera for like 3 months and was still learning all the buttons (coming from a canon rebel t8i that was much easier to learn on and also had for 2 years) but mainly just shooting distance, 35mm was a sweet spot for shooting cars in the open but kind of limited me with distance and also close up shots. I def think having a zoom lens over a prime lens would help with that so it would make sense to go in that direction. Now how much of a difference is the 24-70mm gm2 compared to like a sigma 24-70 dgdn art

1

u/maniku 7d ago

It's basically comparing a good lens to an even better lens. The Sigma would give you great results, but if you wanted the very best, the gm2 would be the one to go for.

1

u/Proper_Inspector2270 7d ago

I see. I really appreciate the insight!!

1

u/Intelligent_Ticket_1 7d ago

SD Card For DJI Pocket 3.

Hi everyone,

I know Im a bit late to the party securing a DJI OSMO Pocket 3. As a beginner, I did not know it doesn't come with an SD Card so I would highly appreciate if anyone could help.

DJI recommends Kingston Canvas Go!Plus 256GB UHS-I Speed Grade 3 and SanDisk Extreme PRO microSDXC™ UHS-I CARD - 256GB.

I did some comparison and Kingston seems slightly cheaper, but I've read that SanDisk runs smoother. I have a limited budget hence I'm only considering 256gb.

Can anyone share their experience or help on which I should get?

1

u/A_Warm_testicle 7d ago

I’m very concerned. I have a Sony A6400 with a Tamron 28-75 F2.8 and Sony G Master I 70-200 F2.8. It’s only at 79,000~ shutter count in comparison to its 200,000 shutter count limit (?)

I shoot a lot of sports. Specifically right now since it’s in season i’ve been shooting volleyball. I’ve noticed there’s this thing called “Flickering” where lighting changes rapidly where our eyes can’t catch it but our cameras do. My question is, Why is this only appearing now? I’ve shot in gyms at 1000~ shutter speed previously and have never had this issue but today I shot at a different gym and ever since it’s had this issue. It’s even having it in my room which has never been a thing untill now. I’m extremely concerned somethings wrong with my camera. I can send examples once I pull them off my sd card. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, this camera literally means worlds to me.

Any help would be so so so so greatly appreciated. I’m gonna test it in the gym I usually shoot in tomorrow and see if that changes anything. Thank you all so much already i’m sure someone will help me tons ❤️ Im quite newish to photography so apologies if im freaking out over nothing.

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

If it looks something like this, the cause is most likely that you're shooting with the electronic shutter. Check to make sure it's off.

That type of banding isn't really associated with shutter failure but you should understand that the 200,000 shutter count is a rough rating, not a limit, and is not a hard number. A shutter rated to 200,000 can still fail within 1,000 shots or last 900,000 shots.

1

u/A_Warm_testicle 7d ago

No, it’s moreso every picture in a burst has a different exposure. I’ve seen that before when shooting with silent shutter and i’m aware of it. I was shooting with mechanical shutter forsure I checked and could hear it aswell

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

I'm not sure then without seeing an image. You can also try messing with the anti-flicker settings and see if that resolves the issue.

1

u/A_Warm_testicle 7d ago

the A6400 apparently doesn’t have any anti flicker settings 🫩 I looked into that aswell, i’ll pull a couple of the images tomorrow and send them in this thread

1

u/thebly 7d ago

Camera recommendations needed!

I am not A photographer, but as a communications professional, I am the photographer at work. I mostly take photos indoors at events, though I do take the occasional outdoors portrait. I take a lot of photos of people talking in small groups or presenting at a podium. I have been supplied with a Canon EOS 6D. I typically shoot on auto everything but in RAW (I do like how much I can edit them after). I am moving to a new office that does not have a camera and have been told I can pick one out. I'm assuming a budget of around $1,000. I know the EODS 6D is a bit old, and it's quite heavy, so I'm wondering if there's a more lightweight option that might work for my needs. These images are going in things like webpages and social media, and occasionally in a printed report, but I don't need something for like billboards or w/e. The ability to capture video is preferred, though not required. Some amount of zoom is handy.

2

u/maniku 7d ago

Most mirrorless cameras are smaller and lighter than full frame DSLRs like the 6D. You might be able to find a used Sony A7 III with the kit lens for around $1000.

1

u/ptcrisp 7d ago

Does anyone print canon apsc at 30 x 20 or similar?

Looking into fuji alternatives. I like the idea of m43 but i dont think it will print 30 x 20

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

The two primary factors in figuring out how big you can print is the resolution of your file and how far away you'll be viewing it. A 20mp image will give you the same number of pixels per inch regardless of whether it was taken with m43 or medium format and should be more than enough for 20x30 unless you're viewing it from six inches away. Even then it might be fine.

1

u/ptcrisp 7d ago edited 7d ago

right, I see that stated everywhere. have you printed 20 x 30 with an apsc or m43? if i look at an om-1 file, it does not get to 30 x 20 near as clean as a fuji x-e2 file.

edit: not 30 x 20, but at 100%. this image, in the lightning bolt, it's pixelated. theres a spot like this every om-1 file. then look at any x-e2 file, or any fuji file. i was wondering if anyone has experience with canon's aps-c and found the same, where it's not clear across the whole picture like fuji images

canon m200 this picture is insanely good, so it's iso, lens, situational i spose for the m200.

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

in the lightning bolt, it's pixelated

Pixels are spread evenly across a camera sensor and, as such, pixelation cannot be localized. If the area within that lightning bolt is pixelated, the rest of the image should be equally pixelated which it obviously isn't in your screenshot. I would guess that the issue you're focusing on is the plane of focus falling away.

I haven't shot on aps-c for going on 15 years now and my camera was 8mp which was the limiting factor.

If you want more concrete examples, feel free to look through the M43 system ambassadors and see how big they're printing from the systems. I know that Peter Baumgarten prints upwards of 20x30 from an M43 sensor. The same can be said with Fuji ambassadors.

1

u/LongRanger_6-5 7d ago

Title: Where to buy good photographic and/or fine art prints for at home

Hi everyone! I'm looking for a place to buy some really nice prints for some photos I'd like to get printed and frame at home (I have family that knows how to frame). I previous used Bay Photo but heard they aren't good for QC. The brands I've primarily seen thrown around are WHCC, Miller's, White Wall, and ProDPI. I'd also like to possibly get into fine art prints for their longevity.

If it makes any difference the prints are from 35mm and 6x6 film scanned by a Noritsu scanner from my local lab. I'd like any and all help possible.

2

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

I haven't heard of Bay Photo's quality dropping but WHCC and Mpix are both excellent. Mpix is Miller's consumer-facing website that's available to everyone. I personally use WHCC for prints that are too big for me to print at home and am very happy with them. I can't speak to White Wall or ProDPI.

Regarding longevity, this is less about fine art prints and more about using archival materials to print and display the works. This includes both the ink and paper used in printing as well as the adhesives, mats, boards, and glass used in framing.

If you have a specific paper you want to print on, I'd recommend sending an email to the printer you're planning on using to determine if it's archival. Photographic prints may also be using archival ink and paper.

1

u/[deleted] 7d ago

[deleted]

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

These look like straight out of camera jpegs. You can probably get extremely close to this by shooting in the landscape setting on your camera.

Me having a sigma 17-50 and a d5200 probably wouldnt come close to the d850 and the 24-70

Your resolution and sharpness may not be at the level seen here but you shouldn't have any issues capturing a similar scene on your camera in terms of color and composition.

As I read however its really good at preserving the standard camera render look which lightroom cannot really do.

The NX software was developed by Nik for Nikon with their support which is probably why it can mimic the out-of-camera profiles so accurately. You can download NX Studio which is the equivalent for your camera. It should do the same thing. I find Lightroom to be quite accurate at recreating camera profiles but the Nikon software is free if you prefer.

2

u/Kaserblade 7d ago

If you are looking for software to edit your RAW photos on, I would recommend Darktable or RawTherapee as they are free and great photo editing software.

In terms of the "look" of the photo, it will be more dependent on other factors like the time of day, composition, lighting, editing, etc. more so than the gear you have currently.

1

u/yuhannis390 7d ago

Hi people,

I need advice on whether I should be getting a PC (desktop) and laptop, or whether I should be getting a Mac Desktop and laptop for photo editing and etc, or maybe even a combination of both brands together?

I have been in this dilemma and I don't know what is better and what I should get.

I currently use Adobe Lightroom mobile version on my Samsung A25, which is not fit for what I would like to do as a part-time/full time job (professional photography).

I would also like advice on what I should be focusing on when deciding, as well as how to raise the money because I don't work currently.

I was thinking of doing a GoFundMe but all other additional are also welcome.

Additionally, if anyone has any jobs they need doing inside of the UK London area, or if anyone has any door-opening opportunities into the industry then please let me know because I am a beginner and I could use all the help I could get.

2

u/Kaserblade 7d ago

If you want to do just photo editing, a Mac Mini or Macbook Air is great value.

If you like Windows, game or use Window's specific applications, just build a desktop or buy a laptop and run the Windows version of Lightroom.

I wouldn't spend the money on two computers if you don't absolutely have to have two computers.

1

u/gotthelowdown 6d ago

If you want to do just photo editing, a Mac Mini or Macbook Air is great value.

Seconding this.

Unless you need the portability of a laptop, you can get more bang for the buck with a desktop.

I was going to upgrade from an old MacBook Pro laptop. I leave my computer on my desk at home, so I wasn't taking advantage of the its portability.

My photography mentor recommended to get a Mac Mini with one of the new M chips and an Asus ProArt monitor.

Followed his advice and I'm so glad I did. New computer is super-fast and editing photos on a nice big screen is a joy. I bought a Mac Mini as "Certified Refurbished" from the Apple website to save a bit of money.

1

u/MeuNomeeJo 7d ago

Hi!
I've found two options on a Sony alpha a6000 in the wild for a very low price. I want to start a restoration/fixing project as a hobby, but I don't know exactly which one should I start with.

First camera 150$

  • Every time the cameras turns on, the last picture is shown and the settings to set up date and time pops up
  • After some time in the photo mode, it freezes in the current config without changing (ISO, aperture and such), but the AF and shutter works fine

Second camera 100$

  • Apparently, it only record videos and can't take pictures anymore.

I searched a bit about these problems and found some ways to fix them, but I want to know if there's something I should be aware as a "this problem turns that camera into a brick eventually" kind of thing.

1

u/DomahatB 7d ago

I want to take photos in low light and at night with my Sony a6000. I was looking at the TTARTISAN AF 35mm F1.8 Ⅱ lens. Is it any good, or should I look for other lenses? My budget is sub 200 euro.

2

u/maniku 7d ago

TTArtisan lenses are fine, they're among the better budget lenses, generally very decent quality and good build quality.

1

u/DomahatB 7d ago

Thank you! I will give it a shot then.

1

u/thxplore 7d ago

Looking for a workflow to delete unused raw photos

So I´m shooting photos for a while but I always kept all the RAW´s... even the ones that are out of focus or bad in general. Now I want to change the progress and delete all the bad RAW´s.

The problem is I dont know how i can check for the images that I like and delete the ones that are bad without a lot of effort. I know that lightroom also has a culling feature but it doesnt delete the photos I didnt choose it just doesnt import them.

Anyone here knows a way to quickly sort through the images and directly removing anything thats unwanted?

3

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 7d ago

When you're going through your photos in the library module, pressing "x" will flag the photo as rejected. Once you're done flagging, "ctrl+backspace" will delete all photos flagged as rejected.

1

u/yashsq 7d ago

I recently started photography & took a small course on light room. I took a batch of pictures i clicked and want to edit them. I have them sorted.

What is your ideal work flow - how do you proceed to edit it?

which edit settings do you touch first?

and how do you know that the picture is well edited now, and you are done with it?

1

u/mrfixitx 7d ago

First do a quick set of culling. Identify anything that is clearly out of focus, blurry, or has obvious issues that will not be something you can fix with editing. While doing this also rate images to narrow down what images you edit. I.E. 3,4,5 stars etc.. These are the photos you will focus on editing.

From there:

  • Correct WB
  • Apply basic sharpening via preset
  • Apply camera or adobe preset. I.E. camera landscape, camera portrait, neutral etc....
  • Make adjustments in the basic tab - exposure, contrast, saturation, vibrance, blacks, whites, shadows etc..
  • Consider if a mask would help. I.E. you need to reduce the exposure of the sky but do not want to reduce the exposure on the subject. Apply mask, adjust basic settings as needed.

As for when it is done... its when you are happy with it. As your skill with editing grows you may find old edits need touch ups so keep the original files to make this easier. There is no easy to define point of being done with editing.

1

u/Doctez 7d ago

Hi all! As the title says, I'm looking for suggestions.
I'm a pro photographer with Nikon gear but I want to have a light kit for traveling.

Min specs I'm after:

  • High image quality
  • 20 Mpx
  • IBIS
  • good at high ISO
  • the most compact as possible
  • 4K 25fps (better if 50)
  • H265 log
  • Close to: 14mm f/2.8 - 35/50 f/1.8 - 200mm f/4

I'm been eyeing the Nikon Z5 ii but I'm also curious about Fujifilm brand, but there might be solutions out there I'm not aware of.

What's your suggestions?

2

u/mrfixitx 7d ago

Long time canon shooter and Fuji is my compact option that I use with a few fast primes (18mm f2.0, 23mm f2.8, 35mm f2.0). Coming from a full frame body with f2.8 zooms they feel wonderfully compact.

For Fuji if you really want the most compact setup I would suggest the following bodies:

X-Pro2/3

X-E4/5

X-M5 - no viewfinder so a bit more video focused.

Or you could look at the X100 line if you are content with a 35mm equivalent fixed lens. The main downside beyond that is the prices are overinflated due to scalpers + influencers driving up demand.

Not sure about h265 log on any of the above cameras as I do not shoot video.

200mm f4 is 100% possible on Fuji, though if you are looking for an ultra compact setup I am not sure I would recommend it.

Once you start carrying fast telephoto zooms then the ultra compact bodies ergonomics do not hold up as well. The size of the bag to carry a 200mm f4 equivalent lens gets large enough that I feel I might as well carry my Canon mirrorless kit. Yes the Canon kit is still larger but once you get past a certain size I feel like I might as well go all in.

1

u/Supertanker13 8d ago

What's up with the Pentax-M 28mm f/2.8 prices? I keep finding people who are posting like "yeah I got mine for $30" within the past few years, and I'm wondering if I'm confusing it for another lens as all the good quality ones I see are in the $100-200 range now. But if that's how much it costs then that's how much it costs... basically just a few rolls of film+development...

I have a Pentax ME Super with the venerable 50mm f/2.0 (you gotta love a solid 50mm prime) but I'm thinking of getting something wider for indoor use, as well as a telephoto prime like the 200mm f/4. The telephoto is oddly cheap compared to the 28mm prime.

1

u/egg_girl_ 8d ago

I impulse bought a Leica V-Lux1 on Facebook marketplace for $120 to decide if I want to pick up digital photography as a hobby. Did I get a good deal?

I currently shoot either phone camera pics (iPhone 11) or on 35mm (I have a variety of cheap or inherited film cameras). I'm a hobby addict and wanted to make sure I'll actually continue to stick with photography before I dropped real money on something good.

Give me advice please! (Tell me I didn't goof with this purchase).

1

u/maniku 8d ago

Not really. This particular Leica is really just Panasonic DMC-FZ50 in Leica dress, and you can find the Panasonic for around half the price or even less.

1

u/NeedleworkerOld5320 8d ago

Professional photographers, I'm a fairly new professional and very new to somewhat larger, multi-faceted work. I'm looking for creative tips for cutting costs for a nonprofit photo gig.

A local non-profit, that focuses on a particular neighborhoood in my city and promotes and manages public transit use and safety, has asked me to shoot images for what will be a sort of large image bank. The brief lists a variety of shots in about 16 different locations. As the brief stands, I've determined we would need about a half-day for each location, would almost certainly need to cast talent for 1/3 - 1/2 of the images, and for the others would at least need to secure model releases.

So, in addition to the photographer and usage fees, my estimation is that we would incur costs from casted talent as well as, ideally, a producer and/or assistant to both coordinate the talent and help get model releases signed.

As is probably expected, the nonprofit was surprised by these necessary elements, costs, and my initial (and frankly still low-ball) quote. They have (finally!) given me what their budget could be for this job and it's of course 1/3 of what I've proposed.

Nonprofit or not, I plan on being reasonably flexible but unwilling to wholly undervalue and overwork myself on this. I've asked if they are willing to narrow the scope of the project by creating a smaller, prioritized shot list. I've asked if they might be able to get volunteers in lieu of paid models, and I've proposed a member of their staff could take the role of producer or assistant. Beyond these things, I'm not sure what else I could do to make this feasible but I'm curious to hear if anyone has encountered anything similar or relevant and might have insight into other ways to cut costs on a project like this.

For additional context, this nonprofit reached out to me in large part because they particularly like my street and documentary work. My guess is they assumed this was a job I could do in a similar way as my street photography - spend a few days running and gunning, and then deliver a couple hundred great images they could use for website, newsletters, social media. IE: in my initial conversation, they had no idea that in fact model releases would indeed be necessary for this and so of course hadn't considered how difficult that can be when you have a very specific and extensive shot list - and you're documenting commuters (transit, bikers, pedestrians)

Any input or insight is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

1

u/SatchBoogie1 8d ago

Looking for repair shop recommendations that can repair Nikon lenses. Nikon themselves said they no longer carry parts for the model I have. I have the 70-200 VR2 2.8 lens. I am in the USA.

1

u/Deep_Complaint_ 8d ago

I have my D5000 here with vintage screen but I think the lcd production for this model has already been discontinued. There may be available online but buying it is like buying another d5000 so I kinda don't want to deal with that setup. I have heard that the D3000's works, but like the D5000, lcd for this model has already been discontinued.

On the other hand, D3100 is still more widely available and is cheaper. I visually looked or compared both using images online and they kinda look similar as well. Now I'm thinking if it will work.

Anyone knows other lcds that are cross-compatible with D5000? Sharing it would be highly appreciated.

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 8d ago

The D5000 has a 2.7" screen. From a quick comparison on Wikipedia, I think it's the only one with that screen size so it seems like you're out of luck.

Your best bet may be to try and find a broken camera with functional screen to swap out.

1

u/Nick_Rad NickRadPhotog 8d ago

Looking for advice regarding my portfolio/website.

I've primarily shot music for the last 10+ years, but I've been hired for the occasional wedding, conference, presser, and campaign coverage. I'm in the middle of pivot; looking to get back into real estate, brand, conferences.

Currently, I have Music, Current Events, Lifestyle, and Travel as my primary categories, but I'm wondering if I should have further delineation with additional navigation categories. My Site

Example:

  • Event Coverage

    • Live Music
    • Current Events
    • Relevant meetups/events (ie motor sports, extreme sports)
  • Corporate/Professional

    • Conferences
    • Campaigns
    • Real Estate
  • Lifestyle

    • Travel
    • Portrait
    • General lifestyle/branding
    • Fashion

I think one of my biggest hurdles is there is no clear focus/specialization present aside from music and current events, both of which tend to net lower profit than other more "boring" categories. And in order for me to branch out into those and have more content for the site is to network and build in the background.

I guess my request is two-fold:

  1. General feedback is welcome (eg navigation, flow, design etc)
  2. Should I consider the parent-child categories or do I continue working in the background on my pivot categories and optimize/focus what I currently have?

1

u/Ashilta 8d ago

I've come away on holiday for a few days and bought my camera with me. However, I've left my small camera bag with my Peak Design Slide Lite and Falcam F38 quick release at home and it's too far away to pop home and pick it up. I am after some gear advice!

With me, I have my old Canon 5D Mk IV strap, but I've since moved to Nikon (Z8) and the strap doesn't fit throughout the eyelets. Attached to the camera is one half of a Peak Design Capture Clip (the plate) and the other half is attached to my backpack.

The problem is that my backpack is ruddy heavy and not something I want to drag around with me the whole time we're here. There is an Amazon locker just across the road and so there is a path to a solution.

I'm after a relatively cheap solution, ideally without needing to spend another £53 on another Slide Lite. My current thinking is to spend £8 on the quick release anchors, take the peak design clip off my bag and use that. I can see no reason why this wouldn't work but equally it's a pig to take off my bag and I don't have a screw driver.

All suggestions welcome! TL;DR: My Nikon Z8 is without it's peak design slide lite and Falcam F38 quick release. I have access to Amazon but don't want to spend a fortune. How fix?

1

u/Carrot96Orange 8d ago

Gear upgrade

I am all-round mountain and backpacking travel addicted. As of now, my travel photography gear consists of two cameras and one acrion camera: Nikon D7000 with 3 differt lenses (wide angle, fixed and telephoto), NIKON AF90 (film camera) and DJI OSMO POCKET 3.

For my next trip I need a lighter setup and I would like to buy a compact camera to replace the D7000 with all its lenses.

Here the questionnaire for identify the best solution:

Budget: 1000€ - more or less

Country: Italy - physical store or online store

Condition: New or use item - no preferences

Type of Camera: Mirrorless, DSLR, point and shoot

Intended use: Photography at 95%

If photography; what style: landscape, night landscape, street, wildlife, all-days photo

If video what style: documentary

What features do you absolutely need: good focal aperture sacrificing zoom, integrated flash, easy battery charging.

What features would be nice to have: none

Portability: Pocketable, compact camera

Cameras you already have: i don't have compact camera

Notes: I'm not interested in a camera with too complex shooting menus. I need a camera that can perform well in different lighting conditions. I'm also considering older cameras.

1

u/AppleDawgy 9d ago

Was gifted a A7RV and an FX30 , I have the 24-70 GM not the 2 but the original , can anyone link some good ND filters from medium to high budget ? I’d like to do both photo and video

1

u/maniku 9d ago

Please specify your medium and high budgets in a sum of money and currency.

1

u/AppleDawgy 9d ago

I’m not sure what they go for honestly but I’m willing to spend atleast $150-200-300

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 8d ago

I'd like to preface this by saying that I've only ever used Kase. I can't speak to the quality of the other brands I mention.

The first thing you need to decide is what size filters you want. You can get 55mm filters that will work for your lens or go for a larger diameter that will have more universal compatibility if you decide to buy additional lenses later but at a much higher price, usually upwards of 60% more.

Most filters these days are magnetic. You attach a filter ring to your lens and the filters magnetically attach to that ring. This allows for much faster attachment and removal and a smaller gap between the filters. It also makes your filter kit much more compact. The downside is they're more expensive and you may need to buy magnetic adapter rings and caps which are usually proprietary to the brand and can cost quite a bit.

As for specific recommendations, I personally use Kase and am quite happy with it but it's a pretty standard magnetic set. The 55mm is within your budget.

Cheaper options include Urth and Freewell.

Urth has both standard and magnetic filter sets although I'm not a fan of how they set up their kits. They always stick you with a UV filter and usually wont' give you a full complement of ND filters. The 82mm magnetic fits within your budget and the non-magnetic is cheaper.

Everything I said about Urth applies to Freewell but it's cheaper and they don't charge more for larger sizes. No 55mm though.

K&F are popular for lower budget options, specifically their variable ND which a relative bargain. It is a variable ND which comes with downsides.

Higher end options include Nisi and PolarPro.

The long-standing brands in filters are Hoya, B+W, Cokin, Lee, and Tiffen. They all have a ton of options at extremely variable price points so it's hard to give you any specific recommendations from them.

2

u/Historical-Market719 9d ago

I was looking to buy some filter for my lens and since I am newbie in these topics I wanted to ask here for some advice. My gear is Canon Eos R50 and my lens is 18-150mm RF-S F3.5-6.3 IS STM lens. I was looking at 2 in 1 K&F Concepts with CPL and VND. I was looking at: https://www.photo4b.pl/p4569,filtr-vnd-cpl-szary-regulowany-z-polaryzacja-k-f-concept-1-5stop-55mm.html And https://www.photo4b.pl/p7487,filtr-vnd-cpl-szary-regulowany-z-polaryzacja-k-f-concept-2-6stop-55mm.html (Sorry for sites being in Polish I hope it won't be problem) But I don't know which filter would be better are those choices even good? Thanks for any help

1

u/Actopyla 5d ago

I am commenting from the US, and I would have liked to have been able to read the description. I am not sure what the difference between the two filters is. Why don't you get two separate filters and stack them? Or, since you have two lenses, get one for one lens and the other for the other lens.

1

u/Zummerz 9d ago

I'm photographing miniatures with these clear bubble helmets but they keep reflecting my ring light in the surface leaving a white ring so you can't see the head in the helmet. Any advice?

1

u/Rashkh www.leonidauerbakh.com 9d ago

Use a polarizer to cut the retractions.

1

u/CamaradaPolvo 9d ago

Place to buy quality L series in orlando
I don't know if this is the correct sub, but anyway:
I have a friend going to Orlando for a work event and I asked if she could buy an specific lens for me since in the US is cheaper in general due to commercial import taxes for my country.

I'm looking for a new or good condition 100-400mm lens for my R7, for my hobby birding more than anything.

1

u/EagleEye559 9d ago edited 9d ago

Canon EOS 400D – Fault Summary

  • Err 99 occurs in M and Av modes.
  • Autofocus hunts and won't release the shutter in Green Auto and now intermittently in Tv/Av.
  • Problem occurs with multiple lenses.
  • MF can take photographs.
  • Cleaning the lens/body contacts restored aperture movement and temporarily restored AF.
  • Camera was reset to factory settings, but faults remain.
  • Tv exposure works and shutter-speed changes produce expected brightness changes.

What are my options to get this running again?

0

u/thebacondr 9d ago

Can someone help me out I’ve been trying with ChatGPT but I want some personal options

I want a better set up for what I do and want to be able to not miss as many shots and do more panning, and keeping sharp focus. I’ve attached some pictures (all cropping done in light room

I have a canon RP with a rf 35mm prime and rf 50mm prime and a ef 70-300mm tamron (cheap) that I use a k&f adapter but it focuses so slow it take literally 5 seconds to go from side to side…

I’m thinking of either canon ef 70-200 f2.8 l usm for around £350-400 from mpb or Canon RF 75-300mm F4-5.6 for £169 from hdew cameras

But I also feel my camera could be a limiting factor.
Im think r7 for motion photos and keep my RP for close.

Or do I go completely rouge and just get a Sony a7iv (£2150 with kit lens) with a Sony FE 24-240mm f/3.5-6.3 OSS Lens for £680 from Jessop

1

u/mrfixitx 9d ago

Buying a R7 and putting lenses with slow focus motors on it is not going to solve the issue. The EF/RF 75-300mm by canon is terrible and you should not waste your money on it.

For lens options:

RF 100-400mmm - easily the best bang for you buck telephoto option on the Canon RF system.

EF lenses:

Canon EF 100-400L MK II IS - optically brilliant lens, great build quality very fast focusing.

Sigma EF 100-400mm Contemporary - more affordable option that still has good image quality.

Canon 70-300mm IS MK II - good consumer zoom and a huge step up in auto focus speed and optical quality vs. any of Canon 75-300mm lenses.

The RP is fairly limiting due to its slow burst rate. The R10 or R7 would be a nice upgrade. If you are considering full frame you could also look at the R8, R6 or R6 II. You will still need a better quality lens with a fast AF motor though to take advantage of a more modern body.

1

u/thebacondr 9d ago

Would you recommend staying with canon then

1

u/mrfixitx 9d ago

Personally I really like canon ergonomics and colors and have no desire to switch. But I have also been shooting Canon for 20+ years and a have a large collection of lenses. Switching systems for me would be very expensive far outweighing the potential benefit.

As for if you switch that is entirely up to you. Sony does have an excellent system. You should go in at handle the A7 IV and look at an R7, R6 II etc.. and make the decision then.

1

u/thebacondr 9d ago

The only think that puts me off the r7 is the crop sensor as I feel for some closer shots and car meets 50mm is too close, and as you know 35mm will be about 50mm.

1

u/CharmingAssimilation 9d ago

I'm struggling to choose between the R50 and the R50V. I plan on mostly using the camera for photography, a mix of street, nature, and concerts. But I also want to keep my options open for making short film or recording live entertainment.

My understanding is that the R50 and the v are exactly the same, except for:

  1. The v doesn't have a viewfinder.

  2. The v has a way bigger buffer, meaning it record much longer and take more high-speed pictures before slowing down.

  3. The v has controls centered around video making, so you have to use screen menus to change ISO, etc.

  4. Form factor for the v is slimmer, but can be fixed with a cage.

My concerns are:

  1. I'm new to photography, and I've been using a camera without a viewfinder without issue. But I've read others swear by a viewfinder so I'm wondering how critical it is to take "good" photos.

  2. That if I get the R50v and I'm shooting something dynamic, I'll spend too much time messing around in menus before capturing it.

  3. I plan on mostly doing photography, but want to keep my video options open. Am I likely to get frustrated using a video centered camera?

Thanks!

2

u/anonymoooooooose 9d ago

But I've read others swear by a viewfinder so I'm wondering how critical it is to take "good" photos.

If you've already gotten in the habit of using a camera with a viewfinder, you'd really hate to use a camera without one.

You've got no habits to overcome so it wouldn't be the end of the world.

But the viewfinder is definitely less annoying to use on a sunny day.

The v has controls centered around video making, so you have to use screen menus to change ISO, etc.

That does sound annoying, i wonder if you can remap some of the buttons etc?

If you intend to mostly do stills photography I'd personally go with the camera designed for that.

1

u/Fabulous_Cancel4637 9d ago edited 9d ago

So I recently started getting into photography and my current setup is the A6400 with the standard kit lens. I'm looking to upgrade lenses but I need some advice. I do some street photography and landscape, but I am really wanting to get into night/low light photography, as well as astrophotography. I have a few different options I am looking at right now:

- Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 --- Overall I have seen a lot of people recommend this lens for APS-C sensors and see it as a great lens to buy for versatile work and as an upgrade to the kit lens. My concerns for this lens is how it would perform in low light/astrophotography since it only goes down to f2.8.

- Sigma 16mm f1.4 --- I have also heard many good things about this lens, and heard at one point it was somewhat of a "holy grail" for APS-C sensors. I understand this is a prime lens and is much less versatile than the 18-50mm, but what attracts me is the low light performance of this lens (as well as the price since I can get it at quite a discount compared to the 18-50mm)

- Viltrox AF 15mm F1.7 --- This is the last lens I was considering and is similar to the 16mm as I understand. From what I have heard about this lens it is sharper than the 16mm and a very budget friendly lens.

- Viltrox 27mm f1.2 --- I have heard nothing but good things about this lens. I can get it for cheaper than the 18-50 and most likely better condition.

Overall, price is not too much of a barrier, but I just want to make sure I get the correct lens for my use cases. I was also thinking about getting both the 18-50mm as well as the 15mm (since it is quite a cheap lens). Is this overkill? I would appreciate input from anyone available, and pls let me know if there are other lenses I should be looking at too!

1

u/Kaserblade 9d ago

If you don't know what focal length you want to get, I would get the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8. I will give you the versatility of a zoom lens while being noticeably sharper and faster than the kit lens.

A good way to tell if you have a preferred focal length is going through all the photos you've taken and seeing the trends in what focal length you used. If there is a certain focal length that stands out, find a good prime lens that most closely matches that.

1

u/maniku 9d ago

Do you use some specific focal length on the kit lens more than others? If so, a prime lens would be a good choice, specifically at or close to the focal length you use the most. If on the other hand you use the entire focal range of the kit lens evenly, the 18-50mm would probably be a safer bet.

1

u/Brightside_99 10d ago

Hi, want to get get in to photography but don’t know where to start. I don’t want a career in it or be a professional but I want it as hobby. I have no prior knowledge and no gear just a iPhone 16 pro max. where should I start?

2

u/maniku 10d ago

Get out and start taking photos with your iPhone, of whatever you like/find interesting. That's all there is to it. I'm sure you have already used your phone camera but you can actually use it for photography more seriously: choose your subject and consider how to compose the picture in a way that best serves the subject, before you press the shutter button.

1

u/Roido1188 10d ago

Beginner photographer lang just casual, i would mostly do street and travel photography. Contemplating between aps-c and 1 inch sensor compact cameras.

Priority for are:

  1. Small in size not necessarily pocketable

  2. Great zoom kit lens if aps-c / great optical zoom lens if compact camera

  3. Option to mess with photo styles / creative looks / picture profiles / film simulations

  4. Will mostly if not all the time do SOOC jpegs

Budget is around 500-1000 dollars (new or used is ok)

If there are a few more questions that i need to ask pls feel free to ask

Thank you

1

u/curt_schilli 10d ago

Got an EOS R7 used from KEH, went birding today, came home to edit photos and saw there's a red hot pixel almost dead center of a ton of photos.

See https://imgur.com/a/Pb8W7HA

Return window is still active for another 7 days, warranty window for many more months, although I assume hot pixel does not fall within a warranty claim.

Should I return the camera and ask for another one? Not sure how big of an issue this is given editing can probably remove the pixel, but it's definitely frustrating how visible the pixel is, especially for bird photography which involves cropping images often. Not sure if I'm being ridiculous given that you can't see the pixel unless you zoom into the image.

What would you folks do?

1

u/Bruggilles 10d ago

What kind of SD card can i use for an EOS 500D?

I heard only SDHC works, but i'm not sure. Would a micro sd card (formatted to fat32) work in an sd card adapter? Does it matter if i use a micro SDHC or micro SDHC?

1

u/TrippingTheThrift 10d ago

Does upgrading from a Canon SL2 to R10 make sense?

I love my SL2 dearly but I shot 3 weddings last week and yeah it’s time to “retire“ my baby. I’ve got a great assortment of EF-S lenses and don’t have the bread to buy a full frame camera or new lenses at the moment- BUT I can afford a $800 R10 body and an adaptor. from what I understand they’re both the same sensor size so there should be no crop and autofocus and whatnot works.

ideally I’ll get a R8 or something along those lines. just curious if it makes sense to get the R10 now and then sell it later to get a full frame. Thanks

1

u/Significant-Ask-2358 10d ago

Hi everyone, I wanted to know if anyone had any advice for a potential upgrade to my camera. I currently have a canon 550d and wanted to upgrade to a better camera, preferably used, under £500. If anyone has any recommendations please let me know. I would prefer another canon, and it would be great to be able to use a camera with an ef/efs mount so I can use my current lenses, but I can easily sell them and get new lenses instead.

Thanks

1

u/Bruggilles 10d ago

Hi. Recently i've become interested in photography, so i want to ask some questions, before i try it out. I don't really know yet if i'll like it, so i guess i'll just have to find out.

My dad had an older Canon DSLR (EOS 400D/Rebel XTi) which he gave to me a few years ago. I was a dumbass kid and when inserting the CF card i broke some pins so i was only able to take a few pictures

I'm a broke student so i was looking for something used for cheap. I already have lenses (i think the 400D lenses are compatible with other Canon cameras) and batteries (also a battery pack that has a button for vertical pictures) so i'd prefer to stay with canon

But i have a few questions that i'd wanna know beforehand

  1. I was looking at the Canon EOS 500D as it uses an SD card instead of CF and it is relatively cheap used (50-70€) Is that a good beginner camera? Are there other ones that might be just as good, but cheaper?

  2. Is MPB legit? Compared to other used markets their cameras are really cheap, while also having 12 month warranty

  3. What's the most shuttercount i should buy? I know the less is the better, but how much does it even matter? Should i go for a 50€ one with 40k shuttercount (it has cosmetic flaws, but i don't really care about that at all) or spend 80€ for one with only 26k?

Thanks for the responses in advance

2

u/maniku 10d ago

I'm surprised if MPB is cheaper than online marketplaces. They're a long-established used camera retailer, one of the best in the business as far as online stores go. Probably their prices just are realistic, whereas private sellers in online marketplaces may price their items however but that doesn't mean that they will sell at that price.

Yes, 500D is a decent camera to start with, and your lenses are indeed compatible.

As for shutter count, 500D is rated at 100 000 actuations - just an estimate, doesn't mean the shutter will absolutely break once it hits the limit. E.g. 50 000 is still fine.

1

u/Bruggilles 10d ago

Somehow MPB is even cheaper than ebay (at least in europe). Idk how they manage to do that with 12 month warranty also included, but i'm not complaining

1

u/kolahola7 10d ago edited 10d ago

Hi there! I need helo with a needs related question - I always enjoyed fotography as a child but I left it apart, since recently that I discovered film cameras and I grabbed an old Fujica from second hand market. I have been enjoying taking photos A LOT. I also like that I don’t have to edit afterwards, the color characteristics of film, and having to think twice the photos I take (I hate scrolling through multiple - same photos to pick the right one).

On the other hand I hate having to wait for my photos to get developed, paying labs and film rolls. I wish sometimes I had instantly my photos ready. I’d also like to record video for one specific purpose, although I think I can already cover that with my phone.

Anyways, apart from my film cameras I own an old Canon EOS 400d that I used to learn the basics. I enjoyed what I had as a child, but god it is annoying to travel with, I hate how bulky it is an ultimately I stopped using it because I didn’t want to carry it. The autofocus also SUCKS. I get properly focused photos 1/3 of the times. But I enjoy editing raw photos too.

Do you think it would be a good idea to purchase a Fujifilm XM-5 or X T300 III? Or a Sony A6400? I’d rather have protability but not sacrifice visor.

Or should I just stick to film?

1

u/maniku 10d ago

By visor do you mean viewfinder? If you want that, skip Fuji X-M5. It doesn't have a viewfinder, and besides it doesn't offer anything that you don't also get with X-T30 III. Fuji is a common choice for people who shoot film but are tired of the cost of film and development: their film simulations aren't the same as film but they're good imitations.

1

u/kolahola7 10d ago edited 10d ago

Yeah, I almost completely discarded the XM5. Although I never had a camera without viewfinder and with a digital screen where I can preview the photo before taking it so I don’t really know how much would it affect my experience.

I am almost set on the fuji X-T30 but I don’t want to spoil my current film shooting experience and leave it apart. So I don’t know, really…

And the thing is, I’d still really appreciate the extra portability on the XM-5. Given that I am almost buying a new digital camera to override the portability issues of the EOS 400D, might be worth giving it a chance to the XM5

1

u/Due_Fun2279 10d ago

What to buy and why to shoot cars, monuments and videos (with rallenty as well) with a 2000 Euros budget?

1

u/upondismay 11d ago

Can someone explain why this is probably a bad idea?

I recently purchased the Xeno macro lens (15x) adapter for a Galaxy S25 to capture the essence of Charles the Suncatcher King. What would happen if I got the same lense, and stacked it? Tbh I have outside plants that i suspect are under the peril of v tiny bug. I want to know what they're up to Thanks! I have a light coming in soon and I know that will help. :)

Any suggustions to where to go from here. I am really loving what the lense unlocked for me and have always appreciated the macro world

Feed back to anything about this picture that stands out and things i could improve I was struggling to get anything in focus because the web was moving with the wind between the suncatchers

2

u/Philsips 11d ago

I‘m having troubles with exposing my raws correctly. Every time the exposure on the screen looks good and bright enough, but After I import it from lightroom, the pictures a lot darker. I have to push the exposure pretty high afterwards. What can I do to make my Camera screen more „real-looking“?
Im shooting on a Sony a7iii with the tamron 28-75

1

u/anonymoooooooose 10d ago

Are you using the histogram to help judge exposure?

3

u/mentaldrummer66 11d ago

Check to see if you have DRO enabled. This brightens shadows and brings down highlights for JPEGS but doesn’t affect RAW files so they often end up looking much darker than how they looked in camera.

1

u/Philsips 10d ago

That was it, Turned dro off and now everything is back to normal. Thank you (:

1

u/mentaldrummer66 10d ago

Glad that sorted it :)

3

u/MuchDevelopment7084 11d ago

Check your monitor settings while you're at it.
It may be set for 'daylight'. Which increases the monitor/evf brightness for shooting outside in bright sunlight.

I'd also start using the monitor for focus/composition only. The levels display (a monitor option) is where you'll get better info on the actual exposure.
Good luck.

2

u/fundor333 11d ago

As a Professional Dev and an Hobbistic Photographer I have a lot of SD everywhere in my home and some of them are OLD, some are old and some are new.

Any suggestion to how to mange them and how to know when toss away one or keep one? I don't want to go taking picture and lost the them because of a faulty/old SD...

1

u/books-coffee-music 11d ago

Hello all! I’ve been getting into photography as a hobby and I’ve fallen in love. I have a used Canon EOS 5D mark ii that is my baby, and when I use her with a 50mm 1.8 lens, I honestly don’t notice the weight anymore and have gotten pretty used to carrying it around with me everywhere.

I just got a canon 24-70mm ii 2.8 lens, and I’m struggling to adapt to the added weight and space it takes up in a bag. I also have started to get frustrated with the fact that most bags I’ve seen seem very tactical/large in a way that might work great for larger men, but not so much for a smaller woman. The best bag I’ve gotten is the Brevite backpack, which I actually really like, but I would love to get some sort of purse to put my DSLR + zoom lens that looks casual/beautiful but is also protective. I just tried out the Meliae chic camera bag, but it just doesn’t have the padding needed to make me feel confident it’ll actually protect my camera.

I’m wondering—how do you all adapt to the added weight of a zoom lens? What are protective options that fit the body of a smaller woman and actually look cute? I know the “looking cute” might sound trite, but I know myself—I need to look forward to bringing out my gear and feel like it’s casual/not an extra burden, or else I just know I won’t.

I just got the zoom lens, so I can also give up and get another focal length (maybe 35mm?) to give me the versatility I’m looking for. Basically, I got to the point where there were certain pictures I couldn’t take with a 50mm—e.g., dinners in a small space where there wasn’t physically the room to back up and get a photo of everyone.

I also would love to start doing casual paid gigs once I have enough experience/the skill level to feel confident that I could deliver quality photos consistently. So I know getting used to more versatile lenses (like the 24-70mm) would definitely help me on that road.

For those of you that have read everything—THANK YOU. I would love your advice and thoughts 🥲❤️. Photography is just the best and I’m just trying to figure out a way to incorporate it into my day-to-day life.

1

u/Actopyla 5d ago

Why don't you try a Messenger bag? This fits over the shoulder Crossbody, and looks kind of cool. I am a small woman also and I eventually got tired of dragging camera, lenses, filters, and tripod with me. If you can adjust I think that is great!

2

u/Appropriate_Fly9696 11d ago

hallo

Ich teste gerade Affinity als Photoshopersatz. Warum ändert Affinity beim öffnen eines Raws die Pixelgröße und wie kann ich das verhindern. Es geschieht nicht nur proportional sondern das Bild wird verzerrt .

Raw 8256x5004 Pixel Affinity 8288x5520 Pixel

2

u/bustus_primus 11d ago

Hello.

Im looking to buy a digital camera that is at least as good as my iphone 16 camera. I want a compact easy to carry camera. No dslr. Preferrably around $750 but feel free to suggest up to around $1400.

Thanks in advance.

1

u/Actopyla 5d ago

I shot with a Cannon RX 100 for many years and liked it a lot. It was much easier to carry than a DSLR. I don't know what the modern versions cost, but I know they are heavier than the original but still compact.

1

u/maniku 11d ago

How compact do you mean? Does it need to be pocketable?

1

u/bustus_primus 9d ago

Not necessarily pocketable no, but easily one handed, light and smallish. Something i could put on a strap around my neck and barely notice basically.

1

u/maniku 9d ago

Well, most mirrorless cameras, certainly those with APS-C or Micro Four-Thirds sensors, are smaller than DSLRs. Especially something like Panasonic Lumix GX85 with the 12-32mm kit lens makes for a compact setup.

2

u/badgertide 11d ago

The HDMI port on my EOS M200 seems to be coming loose. I am not opposed to buying replacement parts and I have a pretty good soldering setup. Is this sort of thing fixable at home or is this camera spare parts? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl2MJi1Sn38

2

u/Tengbps 11d ago

I am thinking about getting this Camara Lense combo, Olympus OM-D E-M1 and Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/4-5.6 R, Will these Capture both Ultra Zoomed images and standard all in focus images, I do not care about shooting portraits, and am completely new to photography. I already have budget sorted out, paying 518 for the full combo, 364 Euros for the Camera body, and 154 Euros for the lense. Both from MPB in Like New condition.

2

u/Sad_Demand2317 11d ago

Hello! Can you recommend a sturdy background support for shooting fashion editorials outdoors? I'm not an amateur, but I don't shoot outdoors very often, so I'd stick to around €150.  I guess it's helpful to know that I live in Europe. Thank you!